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How so ya'll do badly worn winter whitewashes for armor? Let's say, just hypothetically, for a giant robot with a tank for a head. Do you just go the chipping solution/hairspray route, or are there whitewash-specific techniques? Also, what do you use for the whitewash? I'm kinda uneasy about using any of the whites I have lying around. They just look...not quite right.Molentik posted:I agree. The 1/48 from Tamiya is top notch and practically builds itself, especially compared to Dragon. I've never regretted getting a Tamiya kit. Their quality is impressively consistent. VVV I didn't know about the broom part. That's kind of awesome. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 02:55
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In real life, it was white paint applied with a broom. Maybe doing a drybrush of the white? SRM has done a good whitewash on his 40K imperial guard. I would try PMing him about it.
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Nov 25, 2015 03:04
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Blue Footed Booby posted:How so ya'll do badly worn winter whitewashes for armor? Let's say, just hypothetically, for a giant robot with a tank for a head. Do you just go the chipping solution/hairspray route, or are there whitewash-specific techniques? Also, what do you use for the whitewash? I'm kinda uneasy about using any of the whites I have lying around. They just look...not quite right. If your base coating is done, seal it with a clear. Then a couple coats of hairspray. After that use Tamiya flat white mixed with a drop or two of your base coat's color. I like 1 drop of base coat to 20 drops of white. It just helps the white tone down a bit. Then, thin with water and spray an uneven coat over the whole thing. Be careful to put it on thin and dry. If you spray it too heavily, the thinning medium will activate the hairspray and you'll get finish cracking. Wait for it to dry and scrub it off with a damp brush. The trick I've found is to not try to achieve a nice, even coat of the white layers. As mentioned, whitewash was often slopped on with whatever applicator was at hand, so it shouldn't be a nice even coat.
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Nov 25, 2015 03:39
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FInished the Hi-Mock, can't seem to get a decent photo. Here it is anyway. 
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Nov 25, 2015 05:01
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Oh man, that's really great. Did you base the colour scheme on something?
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Nov 25, 2015 05:07
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I''m getting a Navy LCS camo ship from it and the bronzed brown is great too.
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Nov 25, 2015 05:57
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Thanks guys! It was going to have more decals, but the sheet I bought was crap and they were just tearing and folding over on themselves. The lines look cleaner and the paints less streaky in person, the camera really picked up every lovely detail where I hosed something up. The colors are Vallejo german grey > ocean grey > ocean/light grey 50/50. The red/brown is Hull Red that I never got to use after I completely hosed up building a tiny plastic ship with a tiny bit of silver mixed into it. I guess I was inspired to paint it in a sorta kinda luftwaffe splinter camo because the model itself looks like what I imagined the suits from Starship Troopers to look like when I first read it as a teenager. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 06:49
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Blue Footed Booby posted:How so ya'll do badly worn winter whitewashes for armor? Let's say, just hypothetically, for a giant robot with a tank for a head. Do you just go the chipping solution/hairspray route, or are there whitewash-specific techniques? Also, what do you use for the whitewash? I'm kinda uneasy about using any of the whites I have lying around. They just look...not quite right. You could also use the salt method;  Basecoat + varnish to seal the basecoat. Appy clumps of wet salt. More salt = more basepaint showing through. Let it dry over night.  Second colour sprayed on top of it, in your case off white/very light gray.  After it has dried rub off the salt and voila! This here is just an 'ordinary' white wash rubbed off for the very heavy worn look;  Whitewashes ranged from perfect even coats applied with sprayguns to just some chalk applied with rags on a stick and everything in between. So you can do what looks good in your eye, or even use different techniques with different shades of white. Molentik fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Nov 25, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2015 08:06
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Molentik posted:You could also use the salt method; Thanks to you, jade, and bacon! That Tirpitz-looking 'mock is really cool.
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Nov 25, 2015 12:05
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I've had a revell Sopwith Triplane in front of me. It's a 1965 molding with tooling from about that time too I suspect. I have pulled it out of the box, sighed, and put it back multiple times in the past. But tonight I build! (and will likely do a crap job of a crap plane, whatever it was $6) edit: Ugh, the pilot has been hideously gutshot! Fixed with filler, arms not worth repairing. edit: ha ha, it comes with a seatbelt decal! gently caress you Revel, no. edit: I believe the reviewers call this a "Spartan Cockpit"  Also I just spun the chair the right way, don't worry... edit: My pilot, now named Basil, either has a casting defect or a brilliant Lord Kitchener style Handlebar. Nowhere near scale, but sometimes you need to accentuate a defining detail of a plane. edit: Dry fitting fuselage Oh, yeah, no filler needed!  looks like an easy cleanup....  also of note: one side of the fuselage is longer than the other. Probably not a problem. edit: made Basil a home. Figured out the 2 different fuselage length was actually just a monumental bit of flash. I am finding myself caring about this model, which isn't good. still intend to do a minimum-time build though. edit: Cylinder/Connector pin. Brilliant Revel. 
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Nov 26, 2015 |
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Nov 26, 2015 04:55
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Basil you suave son of a bitch. Um, you got something on your chin there Basil... Double post because double post. Edit: Alright last pic of the night. To the surprise of no one, triple deck wings turn out to be finicky.  Final Edit: Okay THIS is the last picture. Decided to unfuck the wings as much as I can, then threw on the landing gear because that would only leave one (Horrifyingly blobbed) piece to attach in the machine gun. I should be able to slop on some paint Saturday. Unless the whole thing falls to dust before then... 
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Nov 26, 2015 |
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Nov 26, 2015 06:54
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Jonny Nox posted:Basil you suave son of a bitch. "It's more modelling putty than plastic now, twisted and craptanky..." Love the old kits, i tried to build a Char tank in 1/72 that my dad probably bought 30 years ago, it was horrible. Nothing fit, it's amazing this hobby survived decades of nothing but craptanks.
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Nov 26, 2015 10:23
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Revell's 1/72 WWI kits have a habit of being ancient toolings with decals of about the same age(dunno if it's the same for their bigger-scale stuff) I've built this one as well, and it's as flashy and gappy as shown. Never bothered painting it since at the time I barely had any paints(Second kit I ever built), and the decals seem to be from an age where printing multiple colors per decal was some kind of advanced wizardry since you have to layer some of them(yet others are multicolor) On mine the pilot was slightly deformed as well, and the machinegun's barrel was drooping down. I've also got the Fokker D.VII which is about the same age and came with pure black and white decals, expecting you to manually paint the lozenge camo decals prior to applying. Since they're only like four Euros here I might buy another one sometime and paint it up proper, but it just doesn't seem worth the effort. Smoke fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Nov 26, 2015 |
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Nov 26, 2015 11:55
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So my Hi-Mock arrived, and it went together really nicely. Now I am currently modifying it. What have you goons gotten me into?
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Nov 27, 2015 04:30
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jadebullet posted:So my Hi-Mock arrived, and it went together really nicely. Now I am currently modifying it. What have you goons gotten me into? One of us One of us
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Nov 27, 2015 09:31
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jadebullet posted:So my Hi-Mock arrived, and it went together really nicely. Now I am currently modifying it. What have you goons gotten me into? Wait til you discover the HGBC line. Then all hope is lost for your wallet  .
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Nov 27, 2015 10:11
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jadebullet posted:So my Hi-Mock arrived, and it went together really nicely. Now I am currently modifying it. What have you goons gotten me into? I need to break down and get my compressor and air brush setup again. Problem is that my apartment here in Japan isn't huge and the compressor is loud as hell. I tried brush painting my Hi-Mock and it's going to look pretty craptastic.
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Nov 27, 2015 13:33
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Nostalgia4Ass posted:I need to break down and get my compressor and air brush setup again. Problem is that my apartment here in Japan isn't huge and the compressor is loud as hell. I tried brush painting my Hi-Mock and it's going to look pretty craptastic. Considering that scale modelling is big in Japan, it doesn't seem like you'll have a problem buying a replacement compressor.
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Nov 27, 2015 16:34
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Just got my copy of F.A.Q. 2. I feel like such a fish outta water after skimming it. Guess I know what I'm going to do next: Buy a really cheap 1/35 tank and practice, practice, practice.
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Nov 28, 2015 12:43
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Make a free account for the Worldwartwozone.com forums and you get to download 5 .pdf's a day from the downloads section. Lots of research books and modeling guides are available there, like Osprey & Trojca books etc!
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Nov 28, 2015 13:25
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Well, modification of the Hi-Mock is complete. Time to prime and start painting.
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Nov 28, 2015 17:17
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Molentik posted:Make a free account for the Worldwartwozone.com forums and you get to download 5 .pdf's a day from the downloads section. Lots of research books and modeling guides are available there, like Osprey & Trojca books etc!
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Nov 28, 2015 17:25
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If you like a shitload of WWII documents, then I'm going to shamelessly plug my blog real quick: http://tankarchives.blogspot.ca/?m=0
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Nov 28, 2015 17:48
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Jobbo_Fett posted:I feel like such a fish outta water after skimming it. Guess I know what I'm going to do next: Buy a really cheap 1/35 tank and practice, practice, practice.
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Nov 28, 2015 21:36
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Jobbo_Fett posted:Just got my copy of F.A.Q. 2. I've just looked back at your pictures you've posted in this thread to date and they are really good but they are all what I would just class as being up to the base coat stage. That is all the fundamental colours put down really nice and evenly and crisply. If I could be so bold, the next step I would recommend you personally forward is to move onto laying on a gloss varnish and trying a pin wash. I think this will really give them some depth, it's not that tricky and I think they will look great.
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Nov 28, 2015 22:07
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Arquinsiel posted:If basic techniques are what you want to learn and cost is at all a factor then go with 1/72 scale kits TBH. All of the basic stuff works fine on them, and they do work nicely with more fancy techniques too, although it can require a lot of extra effort. Cost isn't a big factor but I'll look into that. big_g posted:I've just looked back at your pictures you've posted in this thread to date and they are really good but they are all what I would just class as being up to the base coat stage. That is all the fundamental colours put down really nice and evenly and crisply. Sounds like a plan. I was thinking of doing rust as well, but I should probably pace myself. Funnily enough, worldwartwozone is actually where I posted all my progress years ago. http://worldwartwozone.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20781-135-dragon-stug-iii-ausf-g-early-production/ Those were the days... Anyways, thanks for the recommendations guys.
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Nov 29, 2015 02:49
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Welp, just salted my nazi-mock. Might have under watered the salt, but oh well. Will let y'all know how it turns out. There's salt everywhere. Cover your mouth when you sneeze, folks.
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Nov 29, 2015 03:46
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Welp, just salted my nazi-mock. Might have under watered the salt, but oh well. Will let y'all know how it turns out. As long as the salt stays in place when you airbrush over it you'll be alright. It's better to have some salt flaking off then having some salt that is stuck so well you cant remove it without damaging your base layer. Looking forward to the result!
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Nov 29, 2015 06:11
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I am jealous of you people that have the space to use an airbrush. Salt weathering with a brush is an interesting challenge. My Hi-Mock reeks of hairspray right now.
jadebullet fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Nov 29, 2015 |
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Nov 29, 2015 06:47
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Doesn't take much space to run an airbrush, but then you want one of those filter extractor hoods so you don't hose down your whole apartment. The one I have folds up and isn't too terribly big when I'm not using it.
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Nov 29, 2015 07:47
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My problem is that my hobby desk is also my computer desk, and it is cluttered as gently caress.
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Nov 29, 2015 07:54
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Base Emitter posted:Doesn't take much space to run an airbrush, but then you want one of those filter extractor hoods so you don't hose down your whole apartment. The one I have folds up and isn't too terribly big when I'm not using it. I just lay a plastic painter's dropcloth over my washing machine, which is in the basement bathroom. I run the vent fan while I spray. Fine paint dust still gets everywhere, but it's dry by the time it settles so it doesn't really adhere, and comes off easily in the periodic full bathroom wipedown I'd be doing anyway. Though I'm sure a panzer-hued rainbow has accumulated in the places I can't see or reach. If I didn't have the washing machine, I'd lay the plastic over my toilet and kneel while I spray.
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Nov 29, 2015 14:37
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Anyone have any good recommendations for paintbrush storage? Currently keeping my brushes in a loose container (lovely, low quality brushes) which I think is shortening their lifespan.
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Nov 29, 2015 16:09
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Jobbo_Fett posted:Anyone have any good recommendations for paintbrush storage?
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Nov 29, 2015 16:53
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Arquinsiel posted:Point up, right? Horizontal  They're super-cheapo paintbrushes, like... the cheapest you can find. I've got some model master paintbrushes I've been waiting to use but I don't have anything to store them properly.
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Nov 29, 2015 16:56
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Reform the brush head after use. Also something that I have learned is wash your brushes very often while painting to keep paint from drying inside of it. Cheep brushes will die horribly relatively quickly though, I noticed, but it is all that I can find at michaels. As for storage, I use my "congratulations for one year of service" mug. Coffee mugs are pretty good for holding brushes. Speaking of which, does anyone have any recommendations of a good, high quality modeling brush set for acrylics? jadebullet fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Nov 29, 2015 |
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Nov 29, 2015 17:38
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Best decision in a while was to buy a couple of big, cheap craft brushes. Now they do a lot of the grunt work for me, saving the better brushes. And having a really big brush can save you tons of time as well.
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Nov 29, 2015 18:29
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jadebullet posted:Speaking of which, does anyone have any recommendations of a good, high quality modeling brush set for acrylics? Winsor & Newton "Series 7" seem to be the popular choice for a top of the line detail brush, but they are expensive. I have the #2/0, #0, and #1 sizes, but the #1 easily has a fine enough tip to do the little buttons and details of a 1/48 cockpit, so the two smaller brushes never get used. For my main brushes, I really like the Winsor & Newton "Artists' Acrylic Brushes". They are much less expensive than the series 7 and work very well. They are also durable enough that I let my 6-year old daughter use them for her painting projects without worrying that they will get ruined. She doesn't beat the poo poo out of them, but she isn't exactly gentle, either. They hold quite a bit of paint and lay down a nice smooth layer. My personal preference is to use the "bright" and "round" shapes. I like the bright better than the flats because I get more control from the shorter bristles and they still hold plenty of paint. At the end of the day, I clean them by swishing in a tub of warm water, then gently working the masters brush cleaner into the bristles. Then another swish through the tub to get the soap off finished by a 30-60 second dip in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner. I also have a bottle of Winsor and Newton brush cleaner that I mainly use for cleaning airbrushes, but I have used it on regular brushes and cleaning dried acrylic spills and spatters off my bench and it works great. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Nov 29, 2015 |
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Nov 29, 2015 19:13
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SkunkDuster posted:Winsor & Newton "Series 7" seem to be the popular choice for a top of the line detail brush, but they are expensive. I have the #2/0, #0, and #1 sizes, but the #1 easily has a fine enough tip to do the little buttons and details of a 1/48 cockpit, so the two smaller brushes never get used. Wow you are fancy. (I mean that as a genuine complement.) If you are the person who treats his laundry exactly how it should be treated, I'm the guy who just lumps everything together in the washer, and then lumps everything together in the dryer. Oh and harsh chemicals
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Nov 29, 2015 20:03
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I just use a glass I bought in Ikea which I had intended to be a drinking glass for my desk but which got filled with brushes and just sort of de-facto ended up being the storage glass 
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Nov 29, 2015 20:26
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