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DreadLlama
Jul 15, 2005
Not just for breakfast anymore
I hope those are wasps or hornets and not bees.

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Fatal
Jul 29, 2004

I'm gunna kill you BITCH!!!

Combat Pretzel posted:

Dumb piece of crap is done. Of course, the weather's poo poo as gently caress. Needs plenty of design amendments, tho.



Sweet! You fly it yet?

moron izzard
Nov 17, 2006

Grimey Drawer

DreadLlama posted:

I hope those are wasps or hornets and not bees.

they are hornets, and they completely rebuilt the hole by the next day. He ended up just blowing it up (he has honeybees nearby)

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Fatal posted:

Sweet! You fly it yet?
Not yet, was already dark when I finished it.

Speaking of which, a friend of mine started toying with IR LEDs and IR-enabled security cameras for night flight. The idea is nice, as long you stay close enough to the ground and/or objects so that the inverse square law doesn't gently caress with your visibility.

Anyway, when setting it up, I noticed during the motor test that one of the bearings is already hosed. Probably from one of the crashes. Annoys me to no end, because the motor had only a few hours of total flight time. I have to check how much drama it is to replace it myself. I hope however that replacing that seemingly hosed ESC stops the thing from toppling over in rate mode. If not, the firmware of that BrainFPV flight controller is useless. Half expecting it to be the case, because it has no issues to stay level in attitude mode.

I've also started working on my own flight controller based on an Arduino Zero. When the time for testing comes, my 3D printer will probably doing overtime printing replacement parts. I have high resolution PWMs (bypassing the Arduino libs) and the 10-DOF IMU already up and running. I have to implement the sensor fusion math, and once the weather stays bad, I'm going to pull the X8R from the active drone and get SBus up and working. Once that's done, it could theoretically make the drone fly already (first iteration will be rate and attitude only).

--edit: Also, SBus is a bullshit protocol. It's just a serial bus, but Futaba inverted the signal and runs it at a non-standard baudrate. To invert it back I just need a single transistor and the Arduino's UART can run at the non-standard rate. Makes you wonder why they bothered with these stupid simple obfuscations to begin with.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Nov 22, 2015

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

Combat Pretzel posted:

Dumb piece of crap is done. Of course, the weather's poo poo as gently caress.

Same here. just got 6" of snow.



It's up on Thingiverse and Armattan productions.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1148136
https://armattanproductions.com/pages/kit_detail/57

Rubiks Pubes
Dec 5, 2003

I wanted to be a neo deconstructivist, but Mom wouldn't let me.
Took the Inspire One out today, finally for a real flight since it was a decent day. I absolutely love it, it flies great and I wasn't afraid to fly it a little further than I normally do. I need to figure out how to do the waypoints in the app and some of the other advanced features.

DreadLlama
Jul 15, 2005
Not just for breakfast anymore
Dude, did you just say you're going to make your own flight controller?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

helno posted:

Same here. just got 6" of snow.




I like the design, but my morphite V1 with a 1000mAh 4S lipo weighs in at 340grams.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

DreadLlama posted:

Dude, did you just say you're going to make your own flight controller?
Well, "make" as in writing my own software. The microcontroller platform is an Arduino with an 48MHz Cortex-M0 CPU and a 10-DOF IMU on a break-out board. With the exception of GPS navigation and RTL, it's essentially just a bunch of PID controllers and thus not that hard (some programming experience assumed). Filtering the sensors can be more or less of an issue, depending on what filters you want to use (i.e. mathematical complexity).

Reasons I want to do this are:
a) Because I can (to some degree).
b) I want to test own filters and automations.
c) Abrupt changes between flight modes piss me off, especially between autolevel and attitude. I want smooth switch-over and none of the flight controllers for DIY drones do this.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Nov 22, 2015

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

ImplicitAssembler posted:

I like the design, but my morphite V1 with a 1000mAh 4S lipo weighs in at 340grams.

Isnt the Morphite a 180mm quad?

What are you running hardware wise?

I'm using a 1300 mah 4s battery, 2204 motors and some rather large ESC's, a full size immersion VTX and antenna.

I could easily shave off 80 grams just by changing the ESC's and using a smaller battery.

It will be around 500 grams ready to fly with the CF parts which is about the same as a Kreiger.

helno fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Nov 22, 2015

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

helno posted:

Isnt the Morphite a 180mm quad?

What are you running hardware wise?

I'm using a 1300 mah 4s battery, 2204 motors and some rather large ESC's, a full size immersion VTX and antenna.

I could easily shave off 80 grams just by changing the ESC's and using a smaller battery.

Ok, that's more or less standard 250-size gear, so that's quite reasonable.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Went flying today, the new frame works out just fine. I have reduced flight time, tho. Can't decide whether that stems from going from 8x4.5 slow fly props to 8x5 bullnose ones, or the 3°C outside temperatures (you'd think that when the battery starts heating up, cooling would maintain performance), or both.

Also, turns out one of my ESCs was indeed faulty. The new drone doesn't tilt over a diagonal axis.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Eh, since the current drone flies well enough, I'm planning the next one. :dance:

Actually getting inspired by helno and trying my own derived design, hoping I can cut it into 3D-printable and easily mountable pieces. Prop distances are a slightly bit larger than a 250, placeholders are 6". ESCs should do into the arms, the battery is planned to be inserted rectally ( :haw: ).



--edit: Well poo poo, hollowing out the rear arm cut outs gets Solidworks up in a bunch. :(

--edit2: Owned you, Solidworks! Goddamn Parasolid kernel. :argh:



Very likely doing to statically tilt the rotors forward, so that the tail points square backwards when flying at a decent angle/speed. Probably going to be a pain in the rear end to hover.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Nov 23, 2015

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

You guys have seen this thread, right?
http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?37954-World-speed-record-with-250mm-(or-under)-size-quad/page22

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Jesus, they're using 6S on 250 class quads.

Yeah, I'm tending a little more towards form than function, so I don't expect it to go supersonic as in that thread. While I'm planning 4S, remains to be seen how much drag the spherical body creates. The main sphere's 12cm/4.72" in diameter, after all.

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

Combat Pretzel posted:

Very likely doing to statically tilt the rotors forward, so that the tail points square backwards when flying at a decent angle/speed. Probably going to be a pain in the rear end to hover.
I like the look of it but it is probably huge. My dome is 7.3 cm to give you a size perspective.

Don't do tilted motors they are just pain to tune and like you said they do not hover well at all. Just change the body angle rather than tilting the motors. You can probably cut the motor spacing down quite a bit if you place the tail below the rear arms and make some cutouts for the front one.

Keep in the back of your head that at some point you have to actually build the drat thing and there some shapes that simply do not work on a 3d printer. Another thing is to design in some slots on the arms and you can inlay some CF to make things a bit tougher.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

helno posted:

you can inlay some CF to make things a bit tougher.

Just use carbon tow, at least for the initial prototypes. Easy, simple way of adding strength & stiffness.

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
Carbon Tow is not exactly the easiest thing to bond to 3d printed plastic.

Leave a few channel for plates and just bolt the fuckers in.

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN
zipties are the carbon fibre of 2016

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

helno posted:

Carbon Tow is not exactly the easiest thing to bond to 3d printed plastic.

Leave a few channel for plates and just bolt the fuckers in.

Erh? it's a 5 minute job. You can even superglue it on, if you can't be bothered with epoxy.

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
I'm thinking you need to give this a try and shows us how well it works.

Bonding unidirectional carbon fiber to plastic sounds like a messy pain in the rear end for very little gain.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

helno posted:

Just change the body angle rather than tilting the motors. You can probably cut the motor spacing down quite a bit if you place the tail below the rear arms and make some cutouts for the front one.
I'd rather not change much of the shape at this point. It was a pain in the rear end to design a way to mount detachable volumetric arms while keeping space for a battery. Let alone making them hollow. Solidworks crashed left and right trying to turn the rear arms into tubes (internal cabling and ESCs). If it'll work out, I'll design a second smaller iteration attempting to fix these issues and create a smaller main body. Pitfall of mine is always the cabling, so I'm not too sad about the abundance of space inside it. I've been looking up ball aerodynamics, looking for hints how to improve it.

--edit: How detrimental to motor cooling is mounting them upside down (pusher configuration, or what it is called)? Would allow me to put some sort of propeller cone on the adjacent side.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Nov 24, 2015

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
God, I'm starting to hate myself. rear end-loading the battery via a screw cap turned out impractical. Lets see if this'll actually stay printable on FFF printers or whether I have to send parts to Shapeways.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
My dad bought a Dji phantom 3 professional and asked me to "set it up" (steal it forever). The fpv was only showing about 1 frame per second. Is that normal? This was on a beach so plenty wide open. The video playback on my laptop was also about 0.5 to 1 frames per second, but it's a 4 year old laptop so maybe it just couldn't handle raw 4k video.

I also told it to come home and land, and it landed on a fence and crashed. Pretty fun experience overall though.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I don't think a 4 year old anything can handle raw 4k video.

DreadLlama
Jul 15, 2005
Not just for breakfast anymore

Combat Pretzel posted:

Well, "make" as in writing my own software. The microcontroller platform is an Arduino with an 48MHz Cortex-M0 CPU and a 10-DOF IMU on a break-out board. With the exception of GPS navigation and RTL, it's essentially just a bunch of PID controllers and thus not that hard (some programming experience assumed). Filtering the sensors can be more or less of an issue, depending on what filters you want to use (i.e. mathematical complexity).

Reasons I want to do this are:
a) Because I can (to some degree).
b) I want to test own filters and automations.
c) Abrupt changes between flight modes piss me off, especially between autolevel and attitude. I want smooth switch-over and none of the flight controllers for DIY drones do this.

Can you please put a gopro on you and upload it to youtube?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

helno posted:

I'm thinking you need to give this a try and shows us how well it works.

Bonding unidirectional carbon fiber to plastic sounds like a messy pain in the rear end for very little gain.

Putting carbon tow on stuff is really, very, easy. Tape it down at either end, put some thin CA on it, use a bit of seran wrap to press it down. It only takes a minute or two to do each strip.

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
I'm well aware of how to apply carbon tow.

It's the getting it to stick to ABS or PLA in a meaningful way that I have a problem with.

In other news I flew the fastball today. This thing is a loving missile.

Once the CF parts come in i'm going to seal it up for winter flying.

Decided it needed a faster colour.

mashed
Jul 27, 2004

I've been having a lot of fun with my new atom 122. This thing is so tiny but flies so much bigger than it actually is. Its perfect for ripping around a park where a larger noisier quad would attract attention.



i81icu812
Dec 5, 2006

mashed_penguin posted:

I've been having a lot of fun with my new atom 122. This thing is so tiny but flies so much bigger than it actually is. Its perfect for ripping around a park where a larger noisier quad would attract attention.





That looks like a ton of fun. Where'd you get it?

mashed
Jul 27, 2004

http://www.paragonuav.com/rotorx-atom-122mm/

There are a few places that carry them. I went with the smaller 1104 motors but people are putting 1306 motors and triblade props on them which is slightly insane but also awesome.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Ditched the initial design and went for MkII, since there were plenty of issues I've designed myself into a corner with creating parts to assemble. The front sphere was shrunk from 120mm to 100mm, reducing the cross-section to the wind by 30%, and the propeller plane has been tilted 45° from the longitudinal axis of the main body. Hope I won't regret latter.

Anyone experience with propeller dihedrals (fancy words for tilting prop axes a few degrees inwards to the CoG)? Is it worthwhile?



helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
That looks much better. I'm liking how it will separate into individually printable parts. Just ordered a larger print bed so I might have to make one on e you are done.

Don't bother angling the props. There is zero benefit due to the whole rocket pendulum problem.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
I have a 230x150mm print bed, which seems pretty standard, so every part has to fit within that.

I still have to figure out how to implement the electronics carriage (as separate part, too). The ESCs will probably still go into the arms, attached with velcro or something.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Nov 30, 2015

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye

Combat Pretzel posted:

Ditched the initial design and went for MkII, since there were plenty of issues I've designed myself into a corner with creating parts to assemble. The front sphere was shrunk from 120mm to 100mm, reducing the cross-section to the wind by 30%, and the propeller plane has been tilted 45° from the longitudinal axis of the main body. Hope I won't regret latter.

Anyone experience with propeller dihedrals (fancy words for tilting prop axes a few degrees inwards to the CoG)? Is it worthwhile?





Looking cool. Which version of SW is that? I'm still on '14 and it looks quite a bit different.

I've tried prop dihedral only about the forward axis in an effort to make the aircraft skid less in turns. One thing that it did was make the yaw control work backwards somewhat...for example, to yaw right, the aircraft would speed up the front right motor and the left rear rotor while slowing the right rear and left front. With the props tilted in, the lateral thrust from the tilt works against this...the additional inward thrust from the front right and rear left would cause a moment yawing the aircraft to the left. It wasn't enough to make it uncontrollable but it did make yaw worse. So, I reversed all the motors and used a custom mix to reverse yaw response to fix this. But, at the end of the day, even though I felt totally smart, the aircraft didn't really fly any better, and tuning was kind of a pain in the rear end.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

I suspected that one of my ESC's was not feeling well and I guess I can now call that confirmed:

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Wojcigitty posted:

Looking cool. Which version of SW is that? I'm still on '14 and it looks quite a bit different.
2016 and it became more usable with the UI upgrade, IMO.

Wojcigitty posted:

I've tried prop dihedral only about the forward axis in an effort to make the aircraft skid less in turns. One thing that it did was make the yaw control work backwards somewhat...for example, to yaw right, the aircraft would speed up the front right motor and the left rear rotor while slowing the right rear and left front. With the props tilted in, the lateral thrust from the tilt works against this...the additional inward thrust from the front right and rear left would cause a moment yawing the aircraft to the left. It wasn't enough to make it uncontrollable but it did make yaw worse. So, I reversed all the motors and used a custom mix to reverse yaw response to fix this. But, at the end of the day, even though I felt totally smart, the aircraft didn't really fly any better, and tuning was kind of a pain in the rear end.
Oh that makes sense. That thrust and propeller rotation were contraproductive in normal configuration didn't occur to me.

I had plans to go with some 36x36mm format STM32F4 platform like a Sparky or some poo poo, should my Arduino flight controller project pan out well, so that I have something custom to stick in a small drone. With my own firmware, I can deal with non-standard prop setups (outside rotation direction and flipped yaw) as I please, maybe a two-axis dihedral might be worth to look at again.

Golluk
Oct 22, 2008
I think I should really get around to replacing my Bixler 2. Took it out for a short flight the other day, and made the mistake of doing a barrel roll too low. Clipped and cartwheeled over the top of a small tree coming out of it. Half ripped off the front fuselage in the usual spot (like the 6th time), and broke off the wing mount (~10th time). Still not so bad that I didn't toss it back in the air for some gentle soaring though. All glued back together again, but the front nose curves about 10-15 degrees to the side. Also noticed the battery got pushed in a little, and tore the very outer plastic wrap.

Would be nice to replace it with something similar, for soaring around, but still capable of acrobatics. I already have a flying wing (CTH Assassin), and a Bix3 set up for FPV (Don't want to risk acrobatics in it).

Kinda thinking a mini skyhunter could be fun, and different enough from my other two planes.

Of course I was reminded how awesome flaps are when you can put them down and up. Lets you easily land tail first, and in short distances. Just needs some elevator mixed in to keep it from nosing down.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Sounds like you want something like this:

http://www.stoneblueairlines.com/airplanes/airplanes/vas-aircraft/vas-the-banshee-36.html

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Golluk
Oct 22, 2008

Does look interesting. I think I read about either that one, or a very similar design to it. I seem to recall it being in the ~200 range, and not $90 like that one.

Not a huge fan of the laminated foam though. I found it a bit of a PITA when I built the Assassin.

Golluk fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Nov 30, 2015

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