|
totalnewbie posted:Have you watched the original Italian Job? Yes! It's one of my sources of inspiration, especially the final escape through the Alps ExecuDork posted:pay attention to the Weber carbs swap mentioned in the wiki article, something like that could be semi-plausibly done to any 60's car to make it work the way your comic script wants it to. I already have an idea of what kind of car it's going to be (a dorky Renault like the 12 or a boxy Fiat like the 124), I'm looking for more technical tricks like these. In fact the concept I have in mind is "rally car as a gateway car" in that the car is visibly not stock. The idea is that if the car doesn't have to pass for stock, you can make more extreme modifications, except I'm far from an expert and I don't know what modifications they could be - well I have a vague idea, but I have no idea of the cost/feasibility. I mentioned the supercharger idea, how you need some gearing to make the blower turn fast enough, but I have no idea how hard is it to make or repurpose gears, mechanics is magic to me. Like, when I see car mechanics improvise tools with a welder and scrap metal I have to pick up my jaw from the floor, that's how little I know If a rally car getaway is a stupid idea (like, I realize a loud exhaust is a huge downside when you're trying to disappear), I can drop it and think of something else. The car is not the point of the story (it's categorically not going to be full-frontal car/gun sperging like Gunsmith Cats), it's just to show that the gang is pretty unorthodox, but of course there are many other ways to do that I could magically make the car "fast enough" but I'd rather drop an idea than do it half-assedly (I also love learning about cars of course) ExecuDork posted:And as long as you're watching of-the-era movies Seen all of them actually! I have a hillclimb sequence in mind that pretty much is the Montmartre section of Rendezvous
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 00:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:12 |
|
|
2007 Toyota corolla. How hard would it be to install a remote start in this thing? Should I take it to a professional or can someone with a decent amount of electrical and mechanical knowhow figure it out? E: It has the factory alarm, nothing aftermarket. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Nov 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 00:48
|
|
|
The problem with remote starts on modern vehicles is unless we're talking about a factory installed option you have to bypass whatever version of immobilizer the manufacturer uses. Typically this is achieved by zip-tying a spare key near the proximity sensor in the steering column. It works fine for the purpose of allowing the engine to start but also would allow someone to hot wire your car. If you can't find an OEM solution I'd avoid it entirely.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 01:46
|
|
|
Hrm. I'm not really concerned about it being stolen, but a bypassing the immobilizer would probably also cause issues with any insurance in relation to theft. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 02:15
|
|
|
Grouco posted:I have a 2003 Chrysler Concorde (190k miles) that is a piece of poo poo. But I got it for free a few years ago after studying abroad. Your wheel is about to fall off.  Wheeloff by Martin Brummell, on FlickrIn the 20 minutes of driving I did before this happened, there were sounds and vibrations coming from the front half of the car, that corresponded with speed and went away under moderate braking. I'd just had a pre-trip inspection done and the mechanic had forgotten to tighten the lug nuts after checking my brakes. Try to move your lug nuts with your fingers. My bet is they are loose as hell. Tighten them back up and take your car back to the last shop you were at and complain until somebody gives you a free very-thorough clean-and-detailing. That's what I got from that shop, they apologized PROFUSELY as soon as they picked up the phone. Fortunately, this is an easy fix as long as you catch it BEFORE your wheel decides it would rather carry on without you.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 04:06
|
|
|
Whine from engine compartment of Saabaru for about 5 minutes on cold start. I assume it's the alternator as it gets louder with throttle. Bearings wearing out? It's weird because it started happening around the same time I had a (reputable) shop do the timing belt; I think they did the accessory belts at the same time but I don't see how that'd cause any trouble.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 04:58
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:I found some rust. It's a month or two old, tops. I'm in Colorado, so we don't really get rust. What should I do to prevent it spreading? Also, what's the part that covers this spot called? I've never installed a new one because I don't know what to look for. You're looking for windshield weatherstripping for a Subaru Impreza. Or at least I assume that's an Impreza from the pictures.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 09:20
|
|
|
A week ago I had my tires rotated at an NTB. The car is a 2013 Fiat 500. Since then, both rear tires have needed air twice daily, and I can't find anything puncturing them, so I assumed I had broken valve stems. I called them yesterday and they said they'd check them, but that it's probably my TPMS, as those break all the time when the weather gets cold, and I'd be responsible for them. I apologize for my ignorance, but am I being given the runaround here? I'm not trying to get anything for free that I don't deserve, but the timing seemed odd, considering the tires are only a few months old. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 14:53
|
|
|
If they swapped the tyres off/on wheels, there's a good chance they could have damaged the valve or the TPMS component. If they just swapped the wheels and tyres around without demounting them, I think it'd be very unlikely that they'd have managed to do that kind of damage. Especially twice. Try spraying soapy water everywhere on them and see if there's a definite indication of a leak?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 15:48
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Your wheel is about to fall off. Good call. I checked this morning-- my front right wheel only has 2 lug nuts on it.... I'm busy until all the shops close today, but my buddy said I can make it to work tomorrow if I take 1 lug nut off each rear tire and put them on the front left. I think I should have a cross lug nut wrench in the truck, so I'll give it a go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 16:41
|
|
|
Grouco posted:Good call. I checked this morning-- my front right wheel only has 2 lug nuts on it....  Please don't drive like that, if you're lucky you'll just kill yourself and not someone else too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 16:47
|
|
|
WTF get a friend to drive you to any parts store and buy some lugnuts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 16:49
|
|
|
Ok. Hopefully the studs aren't broken.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 16:59
|
|
|
Grouco posted:Good call. I checked this morning-- my front right wheel only has 2 lug nuts on it.... Buy AAA and have them tow it wherever you need to go. A car that old it's an investment in your future.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 17:20
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:If they swapped the tyres off/on wheels, there's a good chance they could have damaged the valve or the TPMS component. Did, and one bubbled around the stem. Took it in, and they replaced the stem valve, turns out I had picked up a screw in the other tire, so they plugged that for free as well. I love walking out of a tire place without ever touching my wallet. Thanks for the help!
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 20:52
|
|
|
Seconding (thirding? whatever) "Get CAA" In Alberta it's AMA, rest of Canada CAA [Province Name], and in the USA AAA. This is for everybody, I don't care what car you have or how reliable your wrenchin' buddy is, AAA/CAA is absolutely the best car-related purchase I have ever made. Worth 10x more than it costs, easily, plus the intangible benefit of knowing you have a phone number in your pocket to call in case of the unexpected. With a membership, they've got your back for anything car-related. We're a month from the end of the year, and I haven't hit my quota of two tows a year, just the one from March related to that picture I posted, above (weirdly, the tow truck driver told me I was the second wheel-fell-off job he did that evening). The previous 5 years I was rescued by CAA twice a year like I'd signed a contract. Clearly I need to drive on less-well-maintained roads and find more out-of-the-way places to visit. Right after I renew my membership, of course.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
nthing AAA. I've even burnt a leftover tow at the end of my year to get someone else out of a ditch. It's pretty handy. They also aren't dicks about what constitutes a tow. If you break down at 11 PM on a Friday night, the tow home + tow into a shop on Monday are both one incident, not eating your two tows for the year if that's what you have.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 02:17
|
|
|
Geoj posted:The problem with remote starts on modern vehicles is unless we're talking about a factory installed option you have to bypass whatever version of immobilizer the manufacturer uses. Typically this is achieved by zip-tying a spare key near the proximity sensor in the steering column. It works fine for the purpose of allowing the engine to start but also would allow someone to hot wire your car. The aftermarket has come up with various ways around this, basically a clone that only works when the remote start has been activated, or it talks to the ECU/car's data bus when the remote start is activated. That way your immobilizer is left working properly. A remote start absolutely needs a professional installation IMO though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Nov 30, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 05:57
|
|
|
Extra posted:Car: 2004 Ford Focus ZX3 2.0L DOHC First of all, I admire and applaud your dispassionate and academic approach to anything involving drum brakes. I have spent too many hours of my life literally yelling at drum brakes. They make me irrationally angry. Anyways, to me, it all looks good. How do the brakes feel now? Parking brake working again?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 17:30
|
|
|
blk posted:Whine from engine compartment of Saabaru for about 5 minutes on cold start. I assume it's the alternator as it gets louder with throttle. Bearings wearing out? It's weird because it started happening around the same time I had a (reputable) shop do the timing belt; I think they did the accessory belts at the same time but I don't see how that'd cause any trouble. I bet if you were to record a video with your fancy smartphone, someone here could give you a great answer.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 18:06
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:The aftermarket has come up with various ways around this, basically a clone that only works when the remote start has been activated, or it talks to the ECU/car's data bus when the remote start is activated. That way your immobilizer is left working properly. Yep, this is the one I'm using for my WJ. No need to have a permanent bypass with a key ziptied in the column.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2015 20:03
|
|
|
Javid posted:nthing AAA. I've even burnt a leftover tow at the end of my year to get someone else out of a ditch. It's pretty handy. * I realize that 100% of my tows were "foolish driver", and the differences are just a matter of scale. Foolish for driving down that not-really-a-road, foolish for setting off with a known-bad clutch or in a BMW with a known-failing cooling system. And we'll just ignore the two times I've gotten CAA Saskatchewan to pour 5 gallons of 87 octane into my gas tank for free!
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 04:14
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:First of all, I admire and applaud your dispassionate and academic approach to anything involving drum brakes. I have spent too many hours of my life literally yelling at drum brakes. They make me irrationally angry. Thank you. The parking brake did not work the first time and still does not work after re-opening the drums and finding the the shoes were already adjusted as far outward as physically possible to allow the drum to fit back on. I tried the following methods to get the self-adjusters to push out further with everything put back together: - Apply brake pedal several times with vehicle off - Apply brake pedal several times with vehicle off with parking brake engaged and adjusted - Drive car in reverse at 20-30 mph and apply brakes - Drive car in reverse at 20-30 mph and apply brakes with parking brake engaged and adjusted There is an opening accessed by removing a rubber cover on either backing plate but it does not seem feasible at all to access the adjuster from this opening. The opening is lower than the adjuster and far offset from it. Here is a diagram of the backing plate:  This kind of futzing around for 8 hours on a project that shouldn't take any time at all is par for the course so I'm probably forgetting something extremely obvious. Due to my lovely communication skills I am probably not providing enough information for someone else to infer what that issue is. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Dec 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 07:37
|
|
|
Is the parking brake cable itself adjusted? Are the shoes at least somewhat radiused to the drum? Sometimes the shoes wear in a funny sort of way where they look like everything should work but they're simply the wrong shape and won't grip the drum around enough of their circumference to do the job.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 09:13
|
|
|
Serious question time. What is the opinion on A. yellow paint and a tan interior, and B. the best overall paint color for a car with a tan interior (08 Cayman)
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 15:04
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:Serious question time. What is the opinion on A. yellow paint and a tan interior, and B. the best overall paint color for a car with a tan interior (08 Cayman)
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 15:12
|
|
|
'Tan' aka 'baby-poo poo brown'
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 15:19
|
|
|
ShittyPostmakerPro posted:So the rear right wheel on my car was positioned approx 3cm further forward in the wheel well than the rear left, and the camber/toe adjustments for that wheel were maxed out to compensate for what was probably some incredible toe-in. So, with a known good subframe, here are my alignment shop results!   I guess this car is going to the junkyard. According to the alignment guys, even at max adjustment, most of these issues cannot be corrected. Any thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 18:34
|
|
|
Out of all of those, the one that seals the deal is the nearly one solid inch difference between the centerline of the front and rear axles. Take it to a different shop and have them line it up just to make sure it wasn't the first shop being dumb, but I think you're right. I have had a shop tell me a truck had toe in on one front wheel and toe out on the other, and magically it came off the rack with the steering wheel offcenter 
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 19:20
|
|
|
ShittyPostmakerPro posted:So, with a known good subframe, here are my alignment shop results! The steering wheel ain't centered! It even says so at the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 20:15
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Out of all of those, the one that seals the deal is the nearly one solid inch difference between the centerline of the front and rear axles. Take it to a different shop and have them line it up just to make sure it wasn't the first shop being dumb, but I think you're right. This is the 4th shop I've been to, they are very highly regarded and were the only shop who actually looked at the details rather then just try to change the front toe and then say 'it can't be aligned, we don't know why'. 0toShifty posted:The steering wheel ain't centered! It even says so at the bottom. It's not a bendy bus  Edit: Seriously, though - I found that the steering wheel was not splined correctly when previous adjustments were made - this explains the wacky front toe. Nothing can explain the fact that one wheel is an inch further forward and inward to the other three. This is just down the road from me. Should I solve this problem by building an active suspension, 4 wheel steer Lexus Camaro? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371494585995 Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Dec 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 20:20
|
|
|
I guess the question is: can a body shop straighten this? It looks as though the subframe mounts, perhaps the whole lower rear of the body has become twisted.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 21:48
|
|
|
I've seen videos of aa few Russian gentlemen that can make that as good as new. But seriously - maybe yes maybe no. It needs to go on a frame rack at a body shop. It's not gonna be cheap, but is worth looking into if you really like the car. A good shop will know if it can be made right or just "yeah, it will align now lolol".
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 22:39
|
|
|
The car doesn't owe me a serious amount of cash, and I can break it to provide good replacement parts and otherwise hard-to-find spares for my other car. I should make back my purchase price selling commonly wanted parts. A shame as it's a rare car, but it's also a hosed rare car, and once we go down the 'beat it back into shape and hope' route, it becomes a lot less appealing. At least I don't have to bother you with AC questions about it any more :p
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
Nvm figured it out.
Rythe fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Dec 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 00:52
|
|
|
2003 Toyota Avalon XLS. We had some very heavy rain the other day. Carpet on the drivers side now reeks, and is damp, plus the windows are fogging up anytime it's parked. It's damp mostly under the seat and under the front drivers floor mat. Passenger side seems completely dry. I assume it's the sunroof drain tubes being clogged. I found the front ones. I can't figure out where the rear ones are. Anyone have any idea? Also checked the trunk to make sure no water had accumulated there (such as from tail light gaskets), it's bone dry, even in the spare tire well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 05:02
|
|
|
Have you considered the cowl area drains being clogged with leaves etc, causing water to pool in there and overflow into the hvac intake? Had this happen on an old bimmer, you'd get a little river trickle down the side of the trans tunnel every time there was a big pour.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 05:29
|
|
|
Got more 2004 GTP problems. It's been kind of bucking and shuddering at low rpms lately. Last Friday I went to a friends house after work and it was running well on the way there. On the way home I noticed that it was behaving poorly. I've also had it shut down on me a few times in the last couple of weeks. Once it died while i was cruising at about 75 on the highway and it died a couple of other times at low speed, in parking lots and such. Always starts back up and runs fine afterwards. No CEL and no codes that i can see with my obd bluetooth adapter and android torque app. My traction/ABS light is on due what I believe is a bad wire leading to an ABS sensor in one of the hubs that I haven't fixed yet. It doesn't seem to be slipping as i know slipping and its shifting ok but when its in a higher gear and under power I feel it bucking and shuddering. Feels almost grindy, like driving over gravel even. Give it some juice, it downshifts, smooths out and accelerates just fine. It's not down on power or anything. I made a video. https://youtu.be/2DLviUKtjcU Its a little lengthy and you have to deal with my annoying sinusy voice but you can see and hear the problem. Especially obvious near the end of the video.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 06:37
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Have you considered the cowl area drains being clogged with leaves etc, causing water to pool in there and overflow into the hvac intake? Had this happen on an old bimmer, you'd get a little river trickle down the side of the trans tunnel every time there was a big pour. I did, but the HVAC stuff is on the passenger side of the car - which is completely dry. Also double checked the HVAC drain, it was fine. Most of the water is around the front driver's door sill, with more under the seat and dash, so it's pretty obvious most of it ran down from the pillars. Grumbletron 4000 posted:It doesn't seem to be slipping as i know slipping and its shifting ok but when its in a higher gear and under power I feel it bucking and shuddering. Feels almost grindy, like driving over gravel even. Give it some juice, it downshifts, smooths out and accelerates just fine. It's not down on power or anything. I'd find a way to check the fuel pressure, both at idle and while blipping the throttle. When the filter was clogged decently on my Integra, it idled fine, was fine at WOT, but hesitated pretty bad at part throttle. Putting a gauge on showed a slightly wavering pressure while at idle, and blipping the throttle would cause it to nosedive before shooting up. Holding it steady caused the needle to have a seizure, but somehow it still pulled steady under WOT. My first guess is partially clogged fuel filter, second is fuel pressure regulator, third is fuel pump. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Dec 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 11:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:12 |
|
|
Grumbletron 4000 posted:Got more 2004 GTP problems. It's been kind of bucking and shuddering at low rpms lately. Last Friday I went to a friends house after work and it was running well on the way there. On the way home I noticed that it was behaving poorly. I think it's an ignition issue, when is the last time you gave it plugs and wires? Maybe even a coil going bad. Accelerating at low RPM causes some pretty high cylinder pressures and that's when it's hardest to ignite. Boost makes it worse.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 15:53
|
|