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My wife and I will be in the market for new cars in the next year or so, me because I have to return a lease in March, and her because her current car is like 10 years old and is starting to show signs of nickel and diming us. Proposed Budget: $20k give or take ~$5k each New or Used: New Body Style: 4 door compact or midsize sedan for me and wagon for her How will you be using the car?: 20-30 minute commutes to work, errands, occasional 2-5 hour road trips What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, cost of maintenance, import, MPG, company at least semi-socially responsible I prefer European imports and she wants a wagon, so: import of some kind. I have a Volkswagen sedan now which I like a lot, and she was interested in getting a VW wagon but with all this emissions poo poo going on we aren't sure anymore. Given that our non-VW choices for Euro imports and wagons are Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, etc. (i.e. cars we aren't willing to pay for) we thought maybe Subaru? Import (although non-Euro, which I am willing to bend on), has a wagon model, company seems fairly socially responsible, and the WRX would allow me to live out my mid-twenties fantasy of being a douchebag street racer. Would Subaru meet our needs? Are we making too much of the VW emissions stuff? What are our alternatives?
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Nov 18, 2015 23:54
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owl_pellet posted:My wife and I will be in the market for new cars in the next year or so, me because I have to return a lease in March, and her because her current car is like 10 years old and is starting to show signs of nickel and diming us. Prius V Though to be fair I had really bad upper back pain until I figured out a support thing. The new crash standards seem to mean that I just don't get whiplash protection. I had the same problem in a brand new Ford F-150 earlier this year. (Rental)
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Nov 19, 2015 00:48
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Leviathan Song posted:I'm looking at some carfax reports and I see a Mazda 3 with "corporate owner" listed. Is that the warning sign that I think it is? It seems like every car I look at turns up signs of amateur racer or rental as a past owner. It means it was a corporate car. So some mobile salesman owned it, it was a company car for a director, it was a car for an insurance company that did on site visits, it was owned by a home developer used by employees to visit sites...something along those lines. The only concern with these is some companies skimp on maintenance while others are really good. Git Mah Belt Son fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Nov 19, 2015 |
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Nov 19, 2015 03:40
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Hey folks, I hit a deer with my beater and now need to bump up the replacement car timeline from Spring 2016 to this weekend. I'd like to lay out details and let me know if my buying strategy is viable. No template as I don't need help picking a car... We already narrowed to practically base model 2015 new crossover SUV AWD (Rav 4, CRV, Escape, Cx-5, outback) although we haven't driven a single one. Through work I can buy online direct at discount either from Ford or Truecar for pretty good prices. I won't have a trade in and I'd like to out $5k down, although I'm driven by what gets me best OEM financing. Because we don't have much time and I have a relatively stable $ ceiling via the work deals, was thinking of doing a loop at all the dealers, making chit chat, test driving, and not really getting into price but rather give them my business card and in the back putting the down payment, model, etc. Then I'd probably email another couple dealers in the area. Let everyone know I'm hoping to buy on Sunday. A) is there any chance this will work? Is it too out there? B) do I tell them about the pricing I can get online up front or stay quiet and hope they beat it? It seems like end of month and end of year is driving dealers to clear out 2015 models so I'm hoping I catch a guy hungry for sales...
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Nov 19, 2015 05:20
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owl_pellet posted:My wife and I will be in the market for new cars in the next year or so, me because I have to return a lease in March, and her because her current car is like 10 years old and is starting to show signs of nickel and diming us. If reliability, cost of maintenance, mpg are the three of the five bullet points on your list, it may not be the best idea to get a Subaru, especially a WRX. If you are committed to your bullet points and want a wagon, a Prius V is a good car to get. If you secretly want a fun car, then get a fun car, but usually you have to compromise fuel efficiency, cost of ownership, and/or reliability for it.
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Nov 19, 2015 05:25
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My wife and I have one car, a 10 year old hyundai accent. She uses it for a commute. It looks like my next job will probably require me to drive (I used public transport for my last job) so it looks like I finally need to buy a car, since I have 2 interviews next week and both are for companies I'd need to drive to if I got the job (I'm using my wife's car for interviews). I might need to buy a car fast, too, I plan on saying to them I'm available to work within a week. Proposed Budget: $10k give or take a couple New or Used: Used, IDGAF. For reliability probably certified pre-owned since I'm a rube and don't know cars. Body Style: seats 4-5, 2-door is fine, compact/midsize is fine. How will you be using the car?: generally a daily 40ish minute commute and the odd 5 minute shopping drives. What aspects are most important to you? Riding the clutch of my last car in stop and go traffic hosed up my knee, I want an automatic. I want to be safe-ish in a collision. Decent MPG, reliable enough. I'm not super picky otherwise. My last car was a Honda and it did ok in a crash although it was totalled. I don't care what it looks like, I want to go from place A to place B. I hate driving. If $10k is ridiculously low, let me know. I'm ok with getting a car with like, 70k miles on it or so. My last one had that amount and it was fine! I'm not used to fancy new car stuff, I don't want satnav or anything like that. Please give me a couple of options so I can like, have a starting point and do some research?
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Nov 19, 2015 13:49
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:It means it was a corporate car. So some mobile salesman owned it, it was a company car for a director, it was a car for an insurance company that did on site visits, it was owned by a home developer used by employees to visit sites...something along those lines. Thanks. That makes sense and it looks very promising.
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Nov 19, 2015 13:54
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redreader posted:My wife and I have one car, a 10 year old hyundai accent. She uses it for a commute. Get the local ads which will have the $10k used car get-you-on-the-lot special. Bring it with you with the stock number and insist on only seeing that car. Assuming it passes the sniff test they're going to try to add on $5k in poo poo you don't want and are not required to buy. Wife got her honda civic that way, it was a great little car.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:02
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H110Hawk posted:Get the local ads which will have the $10k used car get-you-on-the-lot special. Bring it with you with the stock number and insist on only seeing that car. Assuming it passes the sniff test they're going to try to add on $5k in poo poo you don't want and are not required to buy. Wife got her honda civic that way, it was a great little car. Thanks for the quick response! Questions: -How can I spend 5k extra on a car that already exists and is used? Like they're not going to add any options, it's too late for that right? -Do I go there with a pre-approved car loan from my bank and avoid using their own car loan? Either way I intend to pay down the car ASAP, but a better loan is always good. -If a car is 10k will it be certified pre-owned? Is that possible? Does certified pre-owned mean like, they tack on an extra 500 dollars to the price? -What extra fees should I 'accept', like I heard about a doc fee that can range between like $100 and $350? For them registering the sale at the DMV or something?
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Nov 19, 2015 15:08
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redreader posted:Thanks for the quick response! Questions: -Oh they will bolt on $5k in bullshit. Have no fear. I got taken for this ride in 2003, but I was a sucker. Just calmly remind them you want to pay $9999 for the car, as advertised. Otherwise, you are on the lot and for $15k you can likely get a CPO Honda Civic if the CPO is worth it to you. -Loans don't matter if you intend to pay it off. You can do that if you want, I didn't. You might wind up paying like $50-100 in interest waiting for the first bill to come in the mail. -No, it won't be CPO. CPO is a warranty like anything else and will cost a few grand. -Look up if your state has a doc fee: http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html In CA it's $80. If it's not regulated it's negotiable. They're going to try to make up margin here.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:12
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H110Hawk posted:-Oh they will bolt on $5k in bullshit. Have no fear. I got taken for this ride in 2003, but I was a sucker. Just calmly remind them you want to pay $9999 for the car, as advertised. Otherwise, you are on the lot and for $15k you can likely get a CPO Honda Civic if the CPO is worth it to you. Thanks for that! -If I get a 10k car should I expect for them to let me take it to the mechanic for an inspection, or not? -And if I do get a 10k car, is it sort of like, 'expected' that I might need to take it in and get a bit of work done on it? -I'm in California (San Jose), so the doc fee is 80bux. And I refuse all other fees.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:21
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redreader posted:Thanks for that! Good luck with the PPI. If you have AAA you can use that to have the car towed around, but at $10k they're likely going to piss and moan a lot. I've had neither Civic PPI'd but this is bad advice. A 10k civic "should" be fine for 30k miles (60k->90k) with no major work. Certainly not $5k in work.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:32
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Twerk from Home posted:Tell us a little about the V, does it actually have large sedan amounts of legroom in the back? Is it a "4 adults + luggage comfortably cross country" vehicle? Prius V chat - Still haven't put anyone in the back seat, but this is a 6' ladder:   Carpool buddy didn't notice it in the back seat until the ride home. Not pictured I brought home a rocking chair the other day. Not with the ladder in the car as well.
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Nov 19, 2015 15:41
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Crazyweasel posted:Hey folks, I hit a deer with my beater and now need to bump up the replacement car timeline from Spring 2016 to this weekend. I'd like to lay out details and let me know if my buying strategy is viable. No template as I don't need help picking a car... Go drive the cars you're most interested in. Budget a large number of hours for test driving all of the ones on your list. Don't mention price at all, you are there to test drive and it's unlikely you will buy from the dealership you test drive at if you end up e-mailing local dealers. Once you pick your favorite of the cars, then get pricing for that one, or perhaps your top two by e-mailing nearby dealerships. As far as Ford work discounts, only check it out if you like the Ford a lot. Regardless, get internet sales pricing direct from several dealers before deciding to go with any kind of discount package your work provides. Truecar is pretty worthless now, and e-mailing around will likely save you at least a thousand dollars beyond Truecar pricing with no haggling involved. Just e-mail the internet sales rep and ask for a quote. Make sure to get it in writing with the out the door price broken down into its components. Under no circumstances should you indicate that you are in a hurry to buy. You might even consider renting a car for a week through a site like Kayak or Expedia so that you really aren't. If you can get away with spending a hundred bucks on a rental for a week, you may be able to save far more than that by purchasing at the very end of this month.
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Nov 19, 2015 19:53
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Okay, this is a weird one. My dad works at a salvage yard that buys cars either to junk or sell. He got a hold of a 97 Jimmy and I'm trading him my 78 Sportman for it. However, while my father has the title for the Jimmy and has paid for it there is a weird situation with the paperwork... in that his boss forgot a sheet of it. It's no big deal, except the part where his boss is currently in jail for DUI. So my dad tells me I just need to get the paperwork and we can take care of all of this tomorrow and everything is good. Except it's not. The page in question, which I have a different filled out copy of for another vehicle, is a Bill of Sale. It's been mangled by years of copying of a copy with bad copier settings to boot. It's extremely hard to read not to mention we might have to get the jailbird's signature so getting this done tomorrow might be impossible. Anyway, looking over it here is what I can suss out and my questions about this particular BoS: 1. This says Car Invoice and Bill of Sale, because it's from a dealer I guess? 2. It says I.L. NO. followed by a six digit alphanumeric id. What is that? There is another space for some type of id number right above it, but there is no data and the text is hard to read. What is that? 3. There is the standard BoS information on here regarding the vehicle, any trade ins, condition (sold as is), sale information, and the Odometer Disclosure Statement. Parts of this are not filled out and the text is hard to read. What is the information required for registeration? 4. As my father works for the company can he sign on his bosses' behalf since the boss is currently in prison? 5. In the ODS, he wrote EXEMPT but I can't read why. Any ideas? I drove down here a couple hours to pick up this vehicle, if you can help me not turn around and go home in my piece of poo poo van that would be awesome. Thanks!
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Nov 29, 2015 08:01
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The rest is legal advice, but the Odometer is probably exempt because the car is more than 10 (or some number of years) old. Many states exempt cars over X years old from odo disclosures.
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Nov 29, 2015 08:31
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My gf is looking for a certified preowned or used car from a dealer. She is particularly interested in a Honda Accord, and we are looking at the 2013 and 2014 models. I know the '13 was the first year honda put a CVT in the engine. i personally am not a fan of CVT, but i dont think she'll care. How was the honda CVT recieved? any mechanical issues to be aware of, is it something we should avoid? E: quote:Proposed Budget: $18,000 Waroduce fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 29, 2015 |
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Nov 29, 2015 16:32
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SUBFRIES posted:Proposed Budget: $20k~ Coming back with a follow up after some great advice & info. After some research and test driving several vehicles we've narrowed down to either a Mazda CX-5 or a Subaru Forester. We tried out a '15 Forester, and a new '16 CX-5, and while our proposed budget is now in the $25k~$30k range, saving money would be a bonus, especially if some of the perks of the new models could be had in a solid used model. For the Forester, it seems like the only thing different from the '14 and '15 vs. a new '16 is that the radio is a touch screen, which doesn't matter to either my wife or I. For the CX-5, how far back could we go with it? It looks like a '14 used Grand Touring trim could be had for around $20k. Also, we're planning to purchase by the end of December.
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Nov 30, 2015 19:28
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I'm always ever so slightly skeptical about Year 1 production for new models, but you should be fine with either '14 or '15 for either. You should be able to get a good deal on any 15s remaining on dealer lots in new inventory, though especially for Subaru I expect it will be difficult to find any remaining 15s. One thing to keep in mind is that it can be easier to get good financing terms on new versus used, so it may not actually be worthwhile to buy used. The used market is all kinds of hosed up in terms of pricing for certain models.
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Nov 30, 2015 19:56
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:One thing to keep in mind is that it can be easier to get good financing terms on new versus used, so it may not actually be worthwhile to buy used. The used market is all kinds of hosed up in terms of pricing for certain models. Got pre-approved for a used loan from my credit union for $20k at 2.49%, with good credit, but we'll probably finance under my wife, who has excellent credit.
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Nov 30, 2015 20:24
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SUBFRIES posted:Coming back with a follow up after some great advice & info. After some research and test driving several vehicles we've narrowed down to either a Mazda CX-5 or a Subaru Forester. We tried out a '15 Forester, and a new '16 CX-5, and while our proposed budget is now in the $25k~$30k range, saving money would be a bonus, especially if some of the perks of the new models could be had in a solid used model. For the Forester, it seems like the only thing different from the '14 and '15 vs. a new '16 is that the radio is a touch screen, which doesn't matter to either my wife or I. For the CX-5, how far back could we go with it? It looks like a '14 used Grand Touring trim could be had for around $20k. Also, we're planning to purchase by the end of December. Just giving my anecdotal vote to the CX-5. We've had once since May 2012, only a few months since it came out. Now at about 55,000km with nary an issue, and we love it.
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Dec 1, 2015 02:01
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SUBFRIES posted:Got pre-approved for a used loan from my credit union for $20k at 2.49%, with good credit, but we'll probably finance under my wife, who has excellent credit. 2.49% is pretty much a prime used rate right now. I think the absolute lowest you can find is 1.99%, but most banks have between 2.49-2.99% as their prime used rate. You might not do much better even with her credit.
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Dec 1, 2015 03:38
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Hi thread, I've been driving an 01 Honda Accord coupe I bought 4 years ago for $3200. Since owning it, I've had the AC done ($700), clutch ($600), timing belt/water pump and all seals ($400). The struts have been completely worn for years and it pulls hard to the right and won't take an alignment. There is a bad leak from the distributer as well. Also passenger side CV joint is leaking. Finally the synchros are damaged and it shifts very rough getting into second gear. Well this week my main seal started leaking again and that's another $400 to redo that and the timing belt etc. Seeing as I just paid for this repair within the past 12 months, and fixing it won't change the fact that the car has a lot of poo poo wrong with it and is probably not very safe to drive, I've finally accepted the fact that it's time to get a new car. Proposed Budget: <$12,000 New or Used: Almost certainly used. Body Style: I don't need back seats, the coupe has worked fine, but I'm into a lot of outdoor activities, so a truck is really my ideal vehicle, but I don't think I can get a decent one in my price range. I'm leaning towards getting a decent car and then buying a beater truck down the line for weekend activities. How will you be using the car?: 50 mile commute 5 days a week. Weekends involve kayaks and paddle boards on the roof and wet fishing gear inside. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) Summary If price were no obstacle I'd be driving a new Tacoma. I would also not mind a Ford Ranger or other midsize truck. Just checking out the cars my mechanic had on hand (he fixes and sells cars too) he had a 2007 Mazda 3 for 5.5k and a 2010 for 7k. Either of those would be super cheap and probably run trouble free for several years. I also wouldn't look bad in a 2010ish Lexus IS300. I had hoped to take my time and really look around at a lot of different models, but I'm going to want to purchase in the next week or two.
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Dec 5, 2015 17:57
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tesilential posted:Hi thread, I've been driving an 01 Honda Accord coupe I bought 4 years ago for $3200. Since owning it, I've had the AC done ($700), clutch ($600), timing belt/water pump and all seals ($400). The struts have been completely worn for years and it pulls hard to the right and won't take an alignment. There is a bad leak from the distributer as well. Also passenger side CV joint is leaking. Finally the synchros are damaged and it shifts very rough getting into second gear. Well this week my main seal started leaking again and that's another $400 to redo that and the timing belt etc. Seeing as I just paid for this repair within the past 12 months, and fixing it won't change the fact that the car has a lot of poo poo wrong with it and is probably not very safe to drive, I've finally accepted the fact that it's time to get a new car. You can get a decent truck for $12k. Why did you think that wasn't possible? Since you list "reliability" as being important, and not "is a Lexus", don't buy an IS300, because they are tiny cars and useless for more than carrying two people. A Corolla is larger and more practical.
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Dec 5, 2015 19:58
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I think you'd be able to find a really nice truck for under 12k, especially if you'd be down with something ranger sized.
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Dec 5, 2015 20:00
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powderific posted:I think you'd be able to find a really nice truck for under 12k, especially if you'd be down with something ranger sized. Did some googling and 12k gets like an 03 Tacoma. 16-ish 05-08. Frontiers are still garbage right? What else should I be looking at besides tacos and Rangers? Maybe a later model Mazda truck?
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Dec 5, 2015 21:48
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tesilential posted:Did some googling and 12k gets like an 03 Tacoma. 16-ish 05-08. Frontiers are still garbage right? What else should I be looking at besides tacos and Rangers? Maybe a later model Mazda truck? Fyi a mazda is a ranger.
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Dec 6, 2015 01:00
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$12k should get you the nicest Rangers left in the world, but remember that they are old trucks even when "new". They ended in 2011 but aside from mostly cosmetic changes and some engine upgrades around 2003-05, they didn't really change after 1998. You should also be able to find a full-size truck in that price range if you want to go that way. Tacomas just hold insane resale value.
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Dec 6, 2015 05:43
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Small trucks don't have much of an advantage in fuel economy either so you might as well buy a half ton unless you have some hard constraint on parking space or just really hate Ford or whatever.
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Dec 6, 2015 08:27
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50 mile commute in a truck seems silly to me.
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Dec 6, 2015 17:44
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I have a friend who wants to buy a 2008 Saturn Astra with 86k on it. The dealer wants ~4900, and she's asking me if it's okay for her to buy it. I don't know a ton (read: anything) about those cars. I'm probably going to go with her to look it over, but is there anything in particular I should watch out for? Is there anything about this that just screams terrible idea? This is in Buffalo, if it makes a difference. Edit: This one, specifically. http://www.paddockchevrolet.com/VehicleDetails/used-2008-Saturn-Astra-3dr_HB_XR-Kenmore-NY/2614854763 KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Dec 6, 2015 |
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Dec 6, 2015 19:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:$12k should get you the nicest Rangers left in the world, but remember that they are old trucks even when "new". They ended in 2011 but aside from mostly cosmetic changes and some engine upgrades around 2003-05, they didn't really change after 1998. You should also be able to find a full-size truck in that price range if you want to go that way. Tacomas just hold insane resale value. Yeah my buddy has offered to sell me his 2011 ranger with 40k miles for 12k. It's flawless, but pretty boring and ugly, even in blue. Dealers want 10k for an 01 Tacoma with 150k miles. It's pretty weird. Throatwarbler posted:Small trucks don't have much of an advantage in fuel economy either so you might as well buy a half ton unless you have some hard constraint on parking space or just really hate Ford or whatever. I assume you're talking about f150s? At 12k I'm running into the same issues as tacomas, mainly that they have 120k miles. I know both those models regularly hit 200-250k but I really don't want to deal with any repairs for at least a few years after purchasing. FCKGW posted:50 mile commute in a truck seems silly to me. Yeah the smart move is probably to spend 7k on a Prius and 3k on a beater truck for the weekends and call it a day. So far my best lead is an 08 Tacoma with 103k on it and the guy is asking $12850, which is right around KBB. I think if I can get him down to 10k then I'll run with it.
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Dec 6, 2015 20:40
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KillHour posted:I have a friend who wants to buy a 2008 Saturn Astra with 86k on it. They were fairly decent cars, nothing really wrong with it. Support through the GM dealer network should be fine. The price sounds about a thousand bucks too high.
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Dec 7, 2015 15:24
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tesilential posted:Yeah my buddy has offered to sell me his 2011 ranger with 40k miles for 12k. It's flawless, but pretty boring and ugly, even in blue. Dealers want 10k for an 01 Tacoma with 150k miles. It's pretty weird. Have you considered a new Tacoma? Dealers around me look to have new 2016 Tacomas for $20k flat. Get some <2% financing, don't bitch about 150k mile Tacos selling for $10k, be the one to sell it for $14k in 8 years.
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Dec 7, 2015 15:46
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My 10-year-old Mazda 3 needs $2k of suspension repairs and the engine doesn't sound great on top of that. KBB seems to think that selling it private-party would get me a LOT more money than a trade-in, but with known issues, do you think it would come back to haunt me? Or do people buying 10-year-old cars for a few grand just expect issues and are happy if it runs?
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Dec 7, 2015 17:47
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Twerk from Home posted:Have you considered a new Tacoma? Dealers around me look to have new 2016 Tacomas for $20k flat. Get some <2% financing, don't bitch about 150k mile Tacos selling for $10k, be the one to sell it for $14k in 8 years. Where are you at? $25k +tax, tag, title and finance charges is more like it in central florida. Financing puts it near $30k. No thanks. My plans actually changed drastically around 5pm today. My main reason for wanting a truck was to haul kayak and paddle board around on weekends and to more quickly and easily load fishing gear throughout the week. I've been able to do this in my 01 Accord coupe, it's just not ideal. Then again neither is driving 50 miles a day in an 18 mpg truck. My dad has an 02 tacoma that he has taken fantastic care of, but he wants a v6 with 4x4. When he gets it, he will give me his current truck which I''ll use weekends and for my camping/fishing. The new plan is to use my $12k budget to get a nice modern compact car with low miles. I figure this will be a much more reliable and practical setup. A 2009 or newer car with low miles for the daily commute and a free older truck in great shape to use for the fun stuff. I'll sleep a lot better spending the money on a pretty new car than I would on a 10 year old truck with well over 100K on the clock. I guess now I'm looking at mazda 3 and 6, civics, accords, maybe nissan and hyundai? Maybe a loving prius?
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Dec 8, 2015 03:54
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The difference between 18 mpg and 40 mpg at $2.75/gal and1000 miles a month is like 80 bucks. throw in insurance and registration and it really doesn't sound like its worth spending 12k on a second vehicle.
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Dec 8, 2015 04:08
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Throatwarbler posted:The difference between 18 mpg and 40 mpg at $2.75/gal and1000 miles a month is like 80 bucks. throw in insurance and registration and it really doesn't sound like its worth spending 12k on a second vehicle. Unless I get super lucky, my current vehicle will not last long enough for me to wait on my dad's old tacoma. He is buying a lightly used one cash and is waiting for exactly what he wants. My ride probably won't last 2 more months. So the 12K will go towards my main car, which can now be a pretty new car instead of a pretty old truck. Then down the line I'll have his old truck for truck things, which will be a minority of the time I'm in a vehicle. Keep in mind his truck has 178k miles on it and I drive about 17k a year so it would be over 200k really quick and might not last too long as a daily driver. On the other hand if I just use it for weekends that truck could potentially last me 10 years. I'd save tons of money in the long run by never buying a truck myself and instead just driving an economical car and using the hand me down truck strictly for adventuring.
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Dec 8, 2015 04:20
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smackfu posted:My 10-year-old Mazda 3 needs $2k of suspension repairs and the engine doesn't sound great on top of that. KBB seems to think that selling it private-party would get me a LOT more money than a trade-in, but with known issues, do you think it would come back to haunt me? Or do people buying 10-year-old cars for a few grand just expect issues and are happy if it runs? List all the known issues in the ad, print and save a copy of the ad, use one of those generic bill of sale forms with the "as is" statement, and then tell them to gently caress off if they threaten to sue you. http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/when-the-buyer-of-your-used-car-threatens-to-sue-you-1745615004
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Dec 8, 2015 05:57
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When shopping for cars, is there a minimum size vehicle that can hold two baby seats? I have one kid on the way and probably another down the road but don't expect 3. Yet I get nonstop advice from coworkers to get crossover or bigger, whereas I figure even my dad's fiesta could hold two seats in the back. Am I wrong?
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Dec 9, 2015 15:54
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