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tater_salad posted:Check with your insurance company since it happened while parked it may be a $0 comprehensive claim since yiu didn't drive into anything.. a fuckin projectile of some sort hit your little earth loving car. This is a thing? Which state are you in?
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Dec 5, 2015 03:50
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H110Hawk posted:This is a thing? Which state are you in? It'll be based on your insurance policy. Vest thing is call Em and say so if I was parked in a lot and I came out and saw a dent.. what would you guys cover.. the absolutely can't raise your rate for calling and asking.
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Dec 5, 2015 03:53
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As I posted in the Subaru thread, I am likely to need to get new tires. I know the DWSes are a forum favorite. Looking at Tire Rack, though, the BFGoodrich GForce Comp2-A/S are supposed to be even better. Are those worth considering too, or should I just go with the DWS? Or, it occurs to me that I maybe should also consider getting some cheap snows for the winter and then getting summers when snow season is over. Would this be a good idea even though our snow is one or twice a month October - May, with 50-60 degree days scattered through that entire timeframe? Are there any snows I should be looking for in particular? I already have a spare set of steel wheels.
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Dec 5, 2015 06:49
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22 Eargesplitten posted:As I posted in the Subaru thread, I am likely to need to get new tires. I know the DWSes are a forum favorite. Looking at Tire Rack, though, the BFGoodrich GForce Comp2-A/S are supposed to be even better. Are those worth considering too, or should I just go with the DWS? The original DWS is End of Life so probably getting harder to get. It's being replaced by new models including DWS 06 I believe? They're good tires, but no reason to believe competition can't happen. The Bridgestone RE970as were pretty comparable and I don't know what their most current model is. If you live in a climate like Seattle and are driving a Subaru you should be fine with all season tires if you are careful.
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Dec 5, 2015 06:59
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H110Hawk posted:This is a thing? Which state are you in? It would likely be covered under comprehensive since you didn't collide with anything, and there's a good chance you have a lower deductible for comprehensive than collision because comprehensive is so cheap.
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Dec 5, 2015 07:01
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CharlesM posted:The original DWS is End of Life so probably getting harder to get. It's being replaced by new models including DWS 06 I believe? They're good tires, but no reason to believe competition can't happen. The Bridgestone RE970as were pretty comparable and I don't know what their most current model is. Yeah, sorry, the DWS 06 model are what I'm looking at. I'm in Colorado, so it's a ton of cold sun, some snow that gets cleaned up quickly, and a few warm days. I've been fine with all seasons up to this point, but I know snows are supposed to be better for when it gets really cold or is snowy.
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Dec 5, 2015 07:23
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OMGVBFLOL posted:I should have taken pictures with some sort of scale reference, sorry. The part missing paint is thumbnail-sized. The metal's deformed inward a quarter- to a half-inch. The total width of the deep deformation is about two inches, with some slight deformation for about an inch to either side. It wasn't airsoft or a paintball. Amica gives me 30 days to make a claim. But, you do not have to actually get the work done nust because you made a claim! The adjuster estimates the cost of repair, the insurer takes that amount, subtracts your deductible, and you can then either get it repaired (and if the cost winds up being higher than their estimate, they have to cover the additional cost), or, you can simply have the insurer cut you a check. So file a claim. You're not at fault, your premium won't go up. Take a check, and then pay to have it fixed properly at your own convenience.
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Dec 5, 2015 08:31
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Leperflesh posted:Amica gives me 30 days to make a claim. But, you do not have to actually get the work done nust because you made a claim! The adjuster estimates the cost of repair, the insurer takes that amount, subtracts your deductible, and you can then either get it repaired (and if the cost winds up being higher than their estimate, they have to cover the additional cost), or, you can simply have the insurer cut you a check. This really varies from state to state, and also on if it's a lease, financed, or owned outright. And of course on the insurance company. In the case of a lease or loan, some states (and even some finance companies) will require that the insurance company send the check to the finance company if you don't use a body shop within that insurance company's network. Then you get to wait for the bank to send it to the body shop. You can do an end-run around that by using a body shop within the insurance company's network - in my case, since I was hit by a Geico policyholder, I chose a body shop within Geico's network. That meant I just showed up, signed a few papers, and got keys for a rental that was already in the parking lot. When it was done, I showed up, the rental rep did a walkaround on the car and made sure I put gas in it, then I got the keys for my car and drove home. My old car got hit in a parking lot - it was paid off, and I had Amica at the time - they mailed me a check about a week after their claims adjuster looked at the car. I know Carmax Auto Finance (my leinholder) requires that any insurance payments go to them directly, then they'll pay the body shop. Unless I choose to use a body shop that's paid directly by the insurance company (which I did because I wanted my car fixed this year).
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Dec 5, 2015 09:55
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Geoj posted:It would likely be covered under comprehensive since you didn't collide with anything, and there's a good chance you have a lower deductible for comprehensive than collision because comprehensive is so cheap. I feel like I should be lowering my comprehensive deductible. It's currently the same as my collision at $500.
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Dec 6, 2015 04:55
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H110Hawk posted:I feel like I should be lowering my comprehensive deductible. It's currently the same as my collision at $500. Yeah, look at your quotes - unless you have a really bad record I'd be surprised if dropping it down to $100 would raise your rate by more than $20. Geoj fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Dec 6, 2015 |
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Dec 6, 2015 05:33
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Geoj posted:Yeah, look at your quotes - unless you have a really bad record I'd be surprised if dropping it down to $100 would raise your rate by more than $20. Interesting. The mileages haven't averaged out yet on the vehicles as we just switched to the prius for the "commuter" car, and it has a lienholder if that matters. Total increase in 6 Month Premium resulting from this change: Z4: $0/$16.08, $100/$12.12 Civic: $0/16.55, $100/$12.04 Priusv: $0/$26.61, $100/19.58
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Dec 6, 2015 15:33
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Vehicle is an 05 Chevy Avalanche with a 5.3L V8 LM7 motor and electric cooling fans. I just need someone to confirm or deny what I'm already thinking, If my engine cooling fans aren't spinning, the possible causes are dead cooling fan motors, bad wiring, blown relay/fuse and a faulty coolant temp switch. I have no way that I know of to test the cooling fan motors, but the wiring looks to be intact and everything functioned correctly before I removed the fan assembly and radiator to replace the radiator. Upon installation, the fans no longer spin in any way shape or form. However I don't hear any of the 3 relays attempting to engage, leading me to think it would be a bad relay or the coolant temp sensor got gummed up with crud from the failed radiator that was removed and its not reading properly. Am I correct?
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Dec 7, 2015 03:49
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Elmnt80 posted:Vehicle is an 05 Chevy Avalanche with a 5.3L V8 LM7 motor and electric cooling fans. A multimeter and pinout for the cooling fans would tell you pretty quickly if you were getting power from the harness, and some jumpers and the battery already in the truck should power the fans just fine to test the motors. Without a multimeter you're kinda just guessing. Do you not have one or you need help IDing where to test?
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Dec 7, 2015 04:12
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Motronic posted:A multimeter and pinout for the cooling fans would tell you pretty quickly if you were getting power from the harness, and some jumpers and the battery already in the truck should power the fans just fine to test the motors. If you tell me where/how to test, I can borrow a multimeter from a friend and do it. It would be greatly appreciated.
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Dec 7, 2015 04:30
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Elmnt80 posted:If you tell me where/how to test, I can borrow a multimeter from a friend and do it. It would be greatly appreciated. loving GM making an electronic poo poo show out of the simplest things. Barf:  Set your multimeter to DC voltage. It's gonna be 12 volts if you have to pick a range (depends on the unit). Find a place to connect the black lead to ground, either a good chassis ground or the negative terminal of the battery. Now get the truck hot enough that the fans should be on. Unplug the left cooling fan and put the + lead of the multimeter into the harness pin that has the light blue wire going to it. This should give you 12 volts. This appears to be the fan used for "low speed". If it's hot enough to run the "high speed" mode this same fan should be on as well as the right fan. You can unplug that and jam the red lead into the harness pin with the white wire going to it. Same deal, shoudl be 12v if the truck is trying to turn it on. Mind you, I've had a few beers and am doing this from a wiring diagram that may or may not be correct that I found google searching for your vehicle. If you take some pictures of the plugs that go into the fans someone can probably confirm that we're somewhere close to having the right diagram here. Also, based on this diagram I would check the other pin (black eire going to it) of the right side fan plug (again, harness side....not on the fan itself) with the continuity setting between that pin and a chassis (or battery) ground. It should have continuity. If it doesn't it looks like neither fan will work and this could be as simple as a grounding problem. Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Dec 7, 2015 |
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Dec 7, 2015 04:55
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Motronic posted:loving GM making an electronic poo poo show out of the simplest things. On my VW Jetta4 the second fan would engage 100% of the time the AC compressor was operating, but only "sometimes" when it wasn't. This may be an easy way to force on the "high" mode.
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Dec 7, 2015 05:36
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Motronic posted:loving GM making an electronic poo poo show out of the simplest things. As an aside from all of this, you can at least rule the fans in/out quickly without even starting the engine - or for that matter, even turning the key. Removing relay 1, identifying pins 30 and 87, and placing a jumper from one to the other in the relay box should cause both fans to fire up immediately. Doing the same to relay 2 would test just the right fan. Jumpering both 1 and 3 would engage only the left fan.
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Dec 7, 2015 05:54
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Motronic posted:loving GM making an electronic poo poo show out of the simplest things. It doesn't turn on one fan and then the other. Both fans run at the same time, but they run at a slower speed to start with. When the low speed fan switch engages the relay on the left closes. This connects both fans in series so they both run together at about half speed. When the high speed fan switch engages it turns on the middle and right relays too, which reconnects the fans in parallel so they both run at full speed.
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Dec 7, 2015 11:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:As an aside from all of this, you can at least rule the fans in/out quickly without even starting the engine - or for that matter, even turning the key. Removing relay 1, identifying pins 30 and 87, and placing a jumper from one to the other in the relay box should cause both fans to fire up immediately. Doing the same to relay 2 would test just the right fan. Jumpering both 1 and 3 would engage only the left fan. This is a much better idea to start with if the relays are in an even moderately accessible spot.
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Dec 7, 2015 16:57
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Sweevo posted:It doesn't turn on one fan and then the other. Both fans run at the same time, but they run at a slower speed to start with. It took me three passes through the diagram again but you're right, this is how that works. I missed that the high-speed wire triggers two relays, not just one.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:20
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The fans on my Peugeot are wired almost identically, so as soon as I saw three relays controlling two fans I guessed that's what was going on. The middle relay being a 5-pin one seems to trip people up sometimes too.
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Dec 7, 2015 22:09
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Is loctite good enough for using on a head bolt that penetrates the coolant jacket? Or is there a specific sealant that should be used for this? Jeep 4.0, if that matters.
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Dec 8, 2015 00:14
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So, couldn't get a reading at the harness, replaced the 5 pin relay, started the truck and the fans kicked on within about 2-3 minutes. Granted, about 5-10 minutes later it was running at 220-230, but I'm pretty sure that was a result of it not having enough water since I forgot to add more after it finished bleeding. Thanks for the help guys.  EDIT: Scratch that, I guess that was the fans running on high speed. I think I'm gonna be saying gently caress it and using it just to drive the short 2 mile trip to and from work until I can have a co-worker who spent 20 years as an aircraft electrician go at it with a multimeter. It can't overheat if it doesn't have enough time to warm up, right? 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 03:28
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edit: you know what, I'm probably talking out of my rear end, so ignore this.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 07:37
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EightBit posted:Is loctite good enough for using on a head bolt that penetrates the coolant jacket? Or is there a specific sealant that should be used for this? Jeep 4.0, if that matters. Seems like everyone you ask will have a different go-to. I use this:  Many people use ultra black RTV and have no issues, the same might be true for loctite. I like the teflon Permatex because it doesn't fully harden like RTV, so you can do a head bolt re-torque and not tear the sealant.
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Dec 8, 2015 11:37
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How do you open the gas door on a late model Hyundai Elantra? My mom has one as a rental and their website doesn't provide owner's manuals. It probably is just pulling a lever but she always asks me.
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Dec 8, 2015 22:26
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I have this project truck. It's a 1986 Ranger that is currently little more than rolling frame. It's getting a 5.0 that is currently being built (literally at this moment). I budgeted $5000 for this whole project and I think I've got the engine dialed in at just under $2000. I haven't finished buying the parts yet but that is what it looks like it's going to total +/- 200. I do not know how to wire it. I know I can manage to make an ok 12v chassis harness from scratch. How hard could it be to make an engine harness from scratch? I just don't think I can afford the up to $1000 for a complete engine wiring harness. That doesn't even account for the ECU. If it was as easy as pulling one off of a junkyard car, I'd have it done already. The problem is that I'm using a stock 5.0 HO camshaft and intake with GT40P heads that have been ported with undercut valves and upgraded springs with straight pipe exhaust and I was thinking of going to 1.7 rockers to take advantage of the head work. What ECU do I use? Should I just use the standard 1.6 rockers and an exploder ECU? Is that going to end up with a stock (or somewhat lower due to the stiffer springs) HP output? I don't know what to do and none of my real life friends are smart enough to help me. What options do I have for a custom tuned ECU? Is there a goon out there with all the answers?
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Dec 9, 2015 01:05
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CharlesM posted:How do you open the gas door on a late model Hyundai Elantra? My mom has one as a rental and their website doesn't provide owner's manuals. It probably is just pulling a lever but she always asks me. I, too, have one as a rental! There's two levers on the floor, driver's side, to the left of the seat, next to the door sill. One's for the trunk, the other is for the fuel.
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Dec 9, 2015 01:24
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ChewedFood posted:I have this project truck. It's a 1986 Ranger that is currently little more than rolling frame. It's getting a 5.0 that is currently being built (literally at this moment). I budgeted $5000 for this whole project and I think I've got the engine dialed in at just under $2000. I haven't finished buying the parts yet but that is what it looks like it's going to total +/- 200. I don't know how tunable the Ford ECU is, but if it's tunable you could get someone to do a dyno tune on it (or a rough mail-order tune based on your parts list). Then you can use the stock engine harness from anything with the same motor. Alternately, if you want to do more DIY, there's always Megasquirt, and you could tune it with your laptop. I'm sure there are guides on the internet about megasquirting a 302. Lastly, there's always the good ole carburetor! But a carb manifold and a decent carb is probably going to cost more than Megasquirt, and won't run as well once you get it dialed in.
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Dec 9, 2015 02:56
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Yeah, I know how to and have experience with carburetors. Mostly bikes but at least I understand them. The end game is a bad rear end dedicated off road machine so carbs won't work. Someone at work mentioned megasquirt. They said I could build my own harness using existing sensors and tune it how I want it and save lots of money but a few quick Googles prove that to be very expensive still.
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Dec 9, 2015 03:17
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Plug n play stuff looks pretty spendy, but if you get the generic 10' harness and then just the crimp connectors you need, you can probably save a good chunk. But I don't know, I've never done a from-scratch Megasquirt deal like that before.
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Dec 9, 2015 03:24
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Uthor posted:I, too, have one as a rental! There's two levers on the floor, driver's side, to the left of the seat, next to the door sill. One's for the trunk, the other is for the fuel. Thank you 
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Dec 9, 2015 03:26
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CharlesM posted:Thank you If you are still having trouble, pull the lever and then use the corner of a credit card to pop the fuel door out. My wife's Elantra fuel door spring has never been reliable. 
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Dec 9, 2015 05:59
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Anyone have any thoughts on why my car gets so much condensation built up inside it overnight? I have a 2007 GTI and I don't drive it much (maybe 3-4x a week). For the past few weeks, every time I get in my car the interior glass surfaces are fully opaque with condensation and when I ran a towel over the interior of my windshield and I could literally ring the water out of it. I know some condensation is a result of weather/temp/humidity but I'm in Washington DC, its like 40-60 degrees outside every day and no crazy weather shifts or anything. I suspect there's a seal or something hosed but I was wondering if any of yall have had this happen. It's really weird.
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Dec 10, 2015 03:58
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eriddy posted:Anyone have any thoughts on why my car gets so much condensation built up inside it overnight? No experience with a GTI but with hatches in general I would start with water pooling in the spare tire well, coming from a loose or leaky weather seal.
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Dec 10, 2015 04:25
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Also, clean the inside of your window.
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Dec 10, 2015 05:23
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Geoj posted:No experience with a GTI but with hatches in general I would start with water pooling in the spare tire well, coming from a loose or leaky weather seal. Yeah I've had his happen in my Mk.4 Golf where PO left a rag and bunch of plastic bags and poo poo in there and it plugged up the drain hole. It got so bad my trunk developed mold issues. I've since removed the rag and other poo poo (which almost fell apart due to rotting) and it's much, much better now.
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Dec 10, 2015 10:19
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eriddy posted:Anyone have any thoughts on why my car gets so much condensation built up inside it overnight? Yea you definitely have a leak somewhere. Check the sunroof drains if it has one and the spare tire well and see if any of the footwells are wet. This happened to by B5 and the transmission computer was under the carpet in the passenger side footwell and it hosed it up.
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Dec 10, 2015 13:40
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Hey where did that awesome cyberpunk 80s retrowave car story thread go? It was awesome, am I bind?
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Dec 10, 2015 14:37
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Lilbeefer posted:Hey where did that awesome cyberpunk 80s retrowave car story thread go? It was awesome, am I bind? It was banished to the far-off realm of page two. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3754587
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Dec 10, 2015 14:41
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