|
fletcher posted:I setup Tomato on my ASUS RT-N16 years ago and just went to update it and realized the original project is no longer maintained. Seems there are some forks. What is everybody using these day? If you can spring for it, a Ubiquity Edgerouter Lite or X and then get their UAP-AC-LITE for WiFis. ER-X: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C ER-Lite: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE UAP-AC-LITE: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B017MD6CHM Then enjoy never having to mess with your network again.
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2015 23:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 23:33 |
|
|
Prescription Combs posted:If you can spring for it, a Ubiquity Edgerouter Lite or X and then get their UAP-AC-LITE for WiFis. That gear looks pretty sweet but I'm waaaay over on my "spending money on poo poo I don't really need" budget with the purchase of bigger drives for my NAS. Surely the RT-N16 is still viable?
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 00:22
|
|
|
fletcher posted:That gear looks pretty sweet but I'm waaaay over on my "spending money on poo poo I don't really need" budget with the purchase of bigger drives for my NAS. Surely the RT-N16 is still viable? Might try seeing if there's a recent build of DD-WRT for it. Is the router having issues of sorts?
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 00:24
|
|
|
The RT-N16 doesn't support 5ghz. In my situation (highly saturated 2.4ghz in my area) just having a 5ghz network cleared up just about all of my bandwidth issues with my wireless devices. What are you having issues with?
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 01:01
|
|
|
GobiasIndustries posted:The RT-N16 doesn't support 5ghz. In my situation (highly saturated 2.4ghz in my area) just having a 5ghz network cleared up just about all of my bandwidth issues with my wireless devices. What are you having issues with? Prescription Combs posted:Might try seeing if there's a recent build of DD-WRT for it. Is the router having issues of sorts? Nope not having any issues, just wanted to make sure I'm running up to date software so I don't have a security vulnerability or something.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 03:43
|
|
|
fletcher posted:I setup Tomato on my ASUS RT-N16 years ago and just went to update it and realized the original project is no longer maintained. Seems there are some forks. What is everybody using these day? Shibby or Toastman are both good and both actively developed forks of TomatoUSB. Was using Shibby up until a month ago when I jumped to virtualized pfsense.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 08:46
|
|
|
Does anyone know a way to have a router/dhcp server become the Master Browser. Tomato used to have a simple clickbox to enable this and I loved it. Now that I use Mikrotik's I have no idea how to accomplish this. But really, just a general idea of how to solve the Master Browser problem would be grand.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 17:38
|
|
|
does it have some implementation of samba? normally you modify smb.conf with local master = yes and preferred master = yes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 19:02
|
|
|
phosdex posted:does it have some implementation of samba? normally you modify smb.conf with local master = yes and preferred master = yes. from searching around, no but I better ask in the Mikrotik thread
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 19:04
|
|
|
phosdex posted:does it have some implementation of samba? normally you modify smb.conf with local master = yes and preferred master = yes. This is actually a great use case for a Raspberry Pi if you like playing with Linux.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2015 19:54
|
|
|
I got a TP-Link Archer C7 V2 and after 2 days it stopped accepting any sort of connections, even through Ethernet. Rebooting the router doesn't resolve the problem. Their tech support couldn't help and told me to return it. I just replaced it with a new unit, and the exact same thing happens after 2 days. It doesn't seem like the unit is overheating, so I don't know what the deal could be. The decade old POS router that the C7 was supposed to replace doesn't have this issue and it doesn't appear to be an issue with the internet. What I'm getting at is, has anyone else experienced this issue, and if not can someone recommend a different router?
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2015 19:10
|
|
|
hcenvirons posted:I got a TP-Link Archer C7 V2 and after 2 days it stopped accepting any sort of connections, even through Ethernet. Rebooting the router doesn't resolve the problem. Their tech support couldn't help and told me to return it. You may just have been unlucky enough to get two bad units, but I'd check the voltage from the transformer if you have a multimeter handy. I've had brand new switches fail to work because the transformer was cheap chinese garbage. Buying a replacement transformer that was rated for the proper current fixed it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2015 22:02
|
|
|
So I replaced my defective 6141 with another, was able to get onto the internet, but it's being kind of not great. I went through arris and all my signal stuff looks good. The logs screen, however, is having failed range responses and this happy fella "SW upgrade Failed after download - Incompatible SW file" It seems to me that TWC is pushing the wrong file and my modem isn't taking it, but would that make my connection lovely half the time?
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2015 17:42
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:Are there advanced line stats anywhere? Looking for something like what I pasted below. This is from a few months back and I dunno if this thread can help, but I've been having half my upload rate on my DSL line for about 3 weeks now (which is already super slow). I can't play any games without DC'ing frequently and in general my internet usage is slower than normal from it. Supposedly a technician looked at it before but found nothing wrong. I just had a technician actually come by and check connection on my box outside as well as inside and it looked fine. He gave me a new router to try since mine were 5 years old or more. I'm still getting the same 50% upload rate, though. I believe my plan speed should be 256kbps and I've usually gotten 230-240kpbs actual speed, as expected, over the past years. I've been getting 60-110kps since Thanksgiving weekend. When I call tech support they see as well that I'm getting half or less my plan rate for upload. Download rate is OK as far as plan goes. The technician didn't see any reason why the upload is slow. Said the SNR and attenuation are all fine. I've used 3 modems now and multiple devices to check speeds with the same results. He also said they can't upgrade my speed because he needs a fiber line to the switch I'm on which they haven't wanted to do yet. Thanks, Century Link, for caring! I called again and the technician will come by again tomorrow. I dunno if there's something we're not seeing or what, or if it's entirely on their end at the switch or something. Skipdogg, here's the info my new modem shows: code:
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 01:24
|
|
|
I'm trying to set up QoS on my router to enable the computer in my house to be used without killing my ping when I'm trying to play my PS4 online. I just installed Toastman's Tomato firmware on my router and I was trying to follow the QoS guide link in the OP (see here: http://www.linksysinfo.org/forums/showthread.php?t=60304) but as verbose as it is there are some simple questions I can't answer for myself. The Toastman QoS comes with some default QoS configurations (NOT the same as the vanilla tomato defaults) and it makes sense to me but I really only need a rule that says "Give video game traffic priority over everything else" which I think would be best classified by the port numbers used. The thing that's throwing me off is: 1. I see the highest priority in the defaults is given to something called "Service" and if I delete all these other rules I'm afraid that this means that video games will get priority over whatever this is and possibly interfere with my connection. I don't have my settings in front of me but I think Service was defined the same way it is here: http://i.imgur.com/2juRT0D.png 2. How turn this table of ports required for a particular game (seen here: https://www.bungie.net/en/Help/Article/11931) into Classification rules? (See link in #1 for example of Tomato classification rule) I'm not sure where a port is considered "source" or "destination" just by looking at the table.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 15:04
|
|
|
I just bought one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9ZI7O4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02 which is a 5Ghz only Mikrotik suitable for inside or outside installs. Setup took about 20 seconds with WinBox. $70.00 for 5Ghz AC.. you cannot beat that [edit] $50 bux?!! I'm ordering another! redeyes fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Dec 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 15:52
|
|
|
AzureSkys posted:This is from a few months back and I dunno if this thread can help, but I've been having half my upload rate on my DSL line for about 3 weeks now (which is already super slow). I can't play any games without DC'ing frequently and in general my internet usage is slower than normal from it. Supposedly a technician looked at it before but found nothing wrong. I just had a technician actually come by and check connection on my box outside as well as inside and it looked fine. He gave me a new router to try since mine were 5 years old or more. I'm still getting the same 50% upload rate, though. I believe my plan speed should be 256kbps and I've usually gotten 230-240kpbs actual speed, as expected, over the past years. I've been getting 60-110kps since Thanksgiving weekend. When I call tech support they see as well that I'm getting half or less my plan rate for upload. Download rate is OK as far as plan goes. If you've already replaced the router (and are directly connected to the equipment CL gave you), then it's on their end. Probably a line or card issue, all you can keep doing is calling daily, annoying the poo poo out of them until they fix it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 15:57
|
|
|
Has anyone played with/installed a UnFI AP-AC-PRO? If yes, what is the coverage like in typical residential construction? We might be putting in an offer on a house early next week, and I'd need to majorly upgrade the wireless we have in our current house. Current house is a single story ranch so I put a nanostation m2 up in the attic pointing down, but that won't be suitable for a two-story house. I'll probably get two APs, one up on the second floor and the second on the ceiling in the garage. Might as well go AC and futureproof for a bit. The realities of running cable in a two-story house means i'm gonna have to start living with wifi for more than just web browsing/phones/tablets, though hell or high water i'm running ethernet to my desktop from the rack in the garage where the switch/router/servers are gonna go.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 16:23
|
|
|
Hi all, I'm on the fence about two router options right now - it's to replace a very basic sagemcom supplier-supplied router and give me AC, gigabit Ethernet and hopefully fibre support when it rolls out here. It's currently between the: Netgear D6400 and the TP-Link Archer VR900 I've also considered an AirPort Extreme - for the Mac interface and not looking ugly on my shelf more than anything - and a cheap no nonsense but stable/reliable ADSL+ modem but no idea where to start on the modem side of things. My BB provider is John Lewis (which I believe is provided by Plusnet). I have a MacBook, iPad, two iPhones, Apple TV, PS3, Sony bluray and a WD NAS on the network. Any idea what direction I should be going in here? I suspect my life would be simpler with the all in one units. Lasalas fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Dec 17, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2015 19:39
|
|
|
AzureSkys posted:This is from a few months back and I dunno if this thread can help, but I've been having half my upload rate on my DSL line for about 3 weeks now (which is already super slow). I can't play any games without DC'ing frequently and in general my internet usage is slower than normal from it. Supposedly a technician looked at it before but found nothing wrong. I just had a technician actually come by and check connection on my box outside as well as inside and it looked fine. He gave me a new router to try since mine were 5 years old or more. I'm still getting the same 50% upload rate, though. I believe my plan speed should be 256kbps and I've usually gotten 230-240kpbs actual speed, as expected, over the past years. I've been getting 60-110kps since Thanksgiving weekend. When I call tech support they see as well that I'm getting half or less my plan rate for upload. Download rate is OK as far as plan goes. Your Atten and SNR levels are solid. You can see the modem is training at 1.528 down/0.133 up which is why you're seeing garbage upload speeds. The link retrains are concerning as are the CRC errors, although a few CRC errors aren't the end of the world. Do you know what the tech is reading outside the house at the NID? One of the best troubleshooting steps you can do with DSL is connect the model directly to the line coming from the phone provider to eliminate all the inside wiring and interference. If that's not an option unplug the dsl modem and everything else that uses the phone line in any way shape or form. Fax, Phone, Modem, Satellite Dish boxes, unplug it all. Plug the modem in and turn it on and see what it trains at. Failing all that, try to see if they'll move you to a different port on the DSLAM, maybe the port on the card is being lovely and a different one will clear things up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 05:00
|
|
|
Is there a good solid router that y'all would recommend for family? I'm looking for something ideally bulletproof. These are non-technical family members in a different country that don't currently have a wifi router because they're worried about getting hacked somehow, even though I'm pretty sure they're still on XP  . Auto-updates from a vendor that would actually patch vulnerabilities would be amazing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 07:35
|
|
|
Has Ubquiti sorted out their PoE issues yet? The last iteration of unifi were not 802.3af/at compliant and the tough switch was so-so. How are about the new Edge switch? Prescription Combs posted:If you can spring for it, a Ubiquity Edgerouter Lite or X and then get their UAP-AC-LITE for WiFis. Got a recommended POE switch? Can I use the netgear 8 port POE one? And when it comes to IP cameras, any other recommendation besides the nest cam?
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 09:40
|
|
|
caberham posted:Has Ubquiti sorted out their PoE issues yet? The last iteration of unifi were not 802.3af/at compliant and the tough switch was so-so. How are about the new Edge switch? They still toe the line. The "pro" series AP stuff is standards based 802.3af/at 48v PoE. The smaller / lite / UAP are 24v non-standard power. The Toughswitch-8 is dual-power where you can set the port to be 802.3af/at or 24v power. The toughswitch-5 is 24v only,. Edgeswitches are 48/24 selectable across the board unless you get the non-PoE version (no idea why anyone would do that)
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 09:58
|
|
|
MrBond posted:Is there a good solid router that y'all would recommend for family? I'm looking for something ideally bulletproof. These are non-technical family members in a different country that don't currently have a wifi router because they're worried about getting hacked somehow, even though I'm pretty sure they're still on XP AirPort Extreme
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 10:11
|
|
|
With an Edgerouter X, what is the easiest way to connect to my cable modem? While waiting for Comcast technician to come service the house. I thought I'd play around a bit. I should say modem is a different subnet than my network. Just curious in the future if I ever need to do anything to the modem without having to switch directly into the modem itself.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2015 15:11
|
|
|
caberham posted:Has Ubquiti sorted out their PoE issues yet? The last iteration of unifi were not 802.3af/at compliant and the tough switch was so-so. How are about the new Edge switch? You should be fine with a switch that fits the PoE power budget and usage needs. Either a dumb, smart, or managed switch should be fine. Mine: http://www.intellinet-network.com/8-port-gigabit-ethernet-poe-web-managed-switch Off-brand but it's VLAN configurable and I've had zero issues with it so far. PSU is integrated so you only have to run a power cord to it, no wall wart. Only gripe is the fan is always on. It's not heat sensing so it runs at full speed all the time and is a bit noisy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2015 00:19
|
|
|
Finally got my QOS sorted out properly in Tomato-Shibby and drat its nice when everything works. A lot of initial work doing the port crap and classifications but it was worth it. My girlfriend was downloading some huge update, hitting Netflix, I was grabbing something from Usenet and playing an FPS without any issues.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2015 01:05
|
|
|
Moving to a new house and I'm determined to not have lovely WiFi again. Looking at the C7 as recommended itt, Amazon has a combo with a TP-LINK DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem for only $10 more than the C7 alone. I was going to get an SB6121 but those run $70 on their own. I'm willing to pony up for a nicer modem if it means I won't have to gently caress with it on a weekly basis but don't want to spend extra for no reason, obviously. What should I buy? Don't think it matters but I'll have comcast/xfinity at my new apt. Thanks networking goons!
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2015 04:00
|
|
|
Saint Fu posted:Moving to a new house and I'm determined to not have lovely WiFi again. Looking at the C7 as recommended itt, Amazon has a combo with a TP-LINK DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem for only $10 more than the C7 alone. I was going to get an SB6121 but those run $70 on their own. I'm willing to pony up for a nicer modem if it means I won't have to gently caress with it on a weekly basis but don't want to spend extra for no reason, obviously. What should I buy? How big is your new house and how what's the layout like (sq ft, # of floors, more square or rectangular, etc.)? Depending on the layout having just one WiFi access point might not be enough to cover the whole house.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2015 15:40
|
|
|
I'm waiting for my UAP-AC-LITE (ETA late January, unfortunately), but I'm starting to plan out how I want the network configured so I'm not spending (as much) time fiddling with it when it arrives. So, stupid question time: will it get its own IP address on my network? Is that going to come from the router via DHCP?
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2015 22:13
|
|
|
Axiem posted:UAP-AC-LITE Yes, and yes. You'll want to install the UniFi controller software (or discovery tool) before you plug it in since you configure the AP that way instead of through the device itself.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 01:33
|
|
|
Krailor posted:How big is your new house and how what's the layout like (sq ft, # of floors, more square or rectangular, etc.)? Depending on the layout having just one WiFi access point might not be enough to cover the whole house.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 03:12
|
|
|
I just got a TP-LINK AC1900 Dual Band Wireless AC Gigabit Router (Archer C9) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDLRHFW This is the first router I've gotten in a long rear end time and I've already noticed a definite improvement in speed. However, I want to test out some new features like the USB sharing feature. I connected a USB stick with some PDFs and MP3s that I want to share with guests to test it. I followed this guide http://www.tp-link.us/resources/document/Archer_C9_V1_Storage_Sharing_Application_Guide.pdf The problem is that it is a pain in the rear end to access. Is there a way to rename the share from \\tplinklogin.net to something easier to type? What are the best android and iOS apps to access the share? Is this the best way to set up a share for streaming video?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 08:47
|
|
|
There's nothing in the OP about range extenders. Are the little wall plug kinds any good? I've got an ancient WRT54G from like 2007, and it still works fine, but it seems like it's been getting more unreliable at the far ends of the apartment, which has kind of a long, narrow floorplan. Also possibly since the neighborhood has filled up with more and more router traffic over time. I'm thinking maybe a router that can do 5GHz and a range extender to cover the far end of the apartment. Is there anything important I should know about range extenders?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 22:30
|
|
|
One of these days the OP needs to be updated with "if you still have a WRT54G, trash it and move on already". Because, that. Spending any money on wireless extenders instead of outright replacing that thing is a waste. The odds are good that any new router would eliminate your need for an extended anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
What he said, get a new router. I got one of those Netgear R7000s on sale and its pretty nice. Great OS options, very fast and we have no problems getting solid 5ghz everywhere despite this being a pretty big home. TP-Link makes cheaper stuff if you're budget is constrained. My old WRT54G topped out at like 12megabit on wireless and the signal was pretty weak. They were awesome routers for the time but man, adding a range extender to one of those things is kinda nuts. They were tanks though, poo poo I think I still have one acting as a switch at my parents place.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 22:50
|
|
|
Well, I'm glad to hear that, I wasn't really looking forward to using an extender and having another piece of hardware complicating things. So has wifi signal range just generally improved a lot since the old WRT54G days? I'm researching routers now and it's kinda strange to me how the manufacturers never make even the broadest claims about actual signal range or strength, so that people can actually measure the distances in their homes and figure out what they need. I guess it just varies so much depending on what kinda walls and other objects the signal has to pass through?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 23:31
|
|
|
Too many variables for it to be worthwhile, I think. Plus, if you don't make specific claims no one can call you out on it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2015 23:40
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:You may just have been unlucky enough to get two bad units, but I'd check the voltage from the transformer if you have a multimeter handy. I've had brand new switches fail to work because the transformer was cheap chinese garbage. Buying a replacement transformer that was rated for the proper current fixed it. Looks like the transformer was the issue. I didn't have a multimeter on hand to test with, but I initially didn't swap out the transformer because  . Went and did that and it's been working!
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2015 04:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 23:33 |
|
|
super fart shooter posted:Well, I'm glad to hear that, I wasn't really looking forward to using an extender and having another piece of hardware complicating things. If you're in an apartment it probably has less to do with the broadcast power of YOUR router than it does with the fact that everyone and their cousin has wireless, unlike when the WRT54G was new. 5 GHz is a godsend for apartment dwellers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2015 05:44
|
|
