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Hughmoris posted:- For items to keep in the car during winter, I'm thinking snow shovel, ice scraper, blanket and flashlight. Anything else I should add? I usually keep Granola bars, a Snickers, and a couple of bottles of water with me. I'm more worried about getting help for myself than trying to dig my car out in case I get stuck.
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Dec 17, 2015 03:11
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Uthor posted:I usually keep Granola bars, a Snickers, and a couple of bottles of water with me. I'm more worried about getting help for myself than trying to dig my car out in case I get stuck. I presume taking drinks inside overnight is a good idea for cars in freezing weather.
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Dec 17, 2015 03:50
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Probably. I just keep mine in the hatch. I figure I can get the ice to melt if I have to. The plastic bottles don't burst from the cold/ice, so that hasn't been a concern.
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Dec 17, 2015 03:59
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Raluek posted:Maybe someone who deals with modern automotive electrical stuff can shed some light on what that BCM is up to. The hood switch and trunk light are good ones to start with, but a Cherokee isn't going to have a trunk light issue that isn't visible. Best thing to do is isolate the BCM and re-check the draw.
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Dec 17, 2015 07:32
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Godholio posted:No. I actually had summer washer fluid freeze up in the lines on my WJ when driving in icy weather last winter. Highway speeds would freeze it, idling would thaw it and I'd get washers back.
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Dec 17, 2015 08:14
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Godholio posted:No. Great, thanks for the info.
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Dec 17, 2015 15:08
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I have a car that has been sitting idle in the driveway for about 2 years. I will be bringing it to the mechanics to do a checkup. Any recommendations on what should be done aside from what I list below? I plan on driving it like 5000KM in a couple months as well. - oil change - rotor replacement (it hasn't been replaced since the car was purchased, and they're rusted like crazy now) - Will probably replace tires, they are cracking edit: The car has been turned on and idle'd every 2-3 weeks but I haven't driven it anywhere really. lol internet. fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Dec 17, 2015 |
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Dec 17, 2015 15:09
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CharlesM posted:I presume taking drinks inside overnight is a good idea for cars in freezing weather. Uthor posted:Probably. I just keep mine in the hatch. I figure I can get the ice to melt if I have to. The plastic bottles don't burst from the cold/ice, so that hasn't been a concern. It depends on the drink, the drink container, and how far below freezing it is. Every beverage container gets compromised when cold enough. Although drinks in food cans might be ok. I think I might try hard cans of condensed milk in a plastic bag this winter and see if they burst.
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Dec 17, 2015 15:27
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I was involved in a hit and run about a month ago. The guy came forward ten days later (and got arrested). I just got the revised police report with his insurance info on it. Should I go directly to his insurance (Geico) myself to file a claim? Or should I do it through my insurance (Allstate) and have them deal with it? It's my 26 year old F-150 so I just want a check and I would like to avoid my rate going up. I've never done this before, first time using insurance in over 10 years of driving.
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Dec 17, 2015 16:16
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lol internet. posted:I have a car that has been sitting idle in the driveway for about 2 years. I will be bringing it to the mechanics to do a checkup. Any recommendations on what should be done aside from what I list below? I plan on driving it like 5000KM in a couple months as well. Your battery is probably weak and needs to be tested. I wouldn't replace the rotors right away, they rust almost instantly but it's usually just surface rust that gets swept away as soon as you drive. Give it a shot first. Ditch those tires asap.
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Dec 17, 2015 16:53
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SFH1989 posted:I was involved in a hit and run about a month ago. The guy came forward ten days later (and got arrested). I just got the revised police report with his insurance info on it. Go to your insurance.
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Dec 17, 2015 17:58
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SFH1989 posted:I was involved in a hit and run about a month ago. The guy came forward ten days later (and got arrested). I just got the revised police report with his insurance info on it. I have nothing of value to add, but I love your truck
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Dec 17, 2015 18:01
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SFH1989 posted:I was involved in a hit and run about a month ago. The guy came forward ten days later (and got arrested). I just got the revised police report with his insurance info on it. I've been in this situation many times. Last time: His insurance was Allstate. Mine was progressive. Called my insurance, and they filed a claim with Allstate on my behalf. Went to see the Allstate adjuster - the allstate adjuster was IN LOVE with my Scirocco and gave me an absurdly large amount of money for the fender damage, and even paid for an alignment just in case. Instant check for $950. I was in good hands I guess. Previous time: Her insurance Nationwide. Called Nationwide without going to my insurance and filed a claim. Went to Nationwide's body shop. Guy who ran shop saw that my bumper was scratched, priced one out, and took the car within a $1 of totaling it. Got a check for $900. Nationwide was on my side. So it worked out fine both ways - 15 minutes calling geico could save you.. uh.. a bunch of money on your F-150
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Dec 17, 2015 20:45
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Wasn't there a tire thread here? Anyway, I'm looking to replace the tires on my Camry and I'm between these Generals or these Yokohamas. I'm leaning towards the Yokohamas if the local tire shop has them in stock and will match the Tire Rack price. Otherwise the Generals have better ratings, so I'd go with them. Any thoughts on either tire?
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Dec 17, 2015 22:46
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Deeters posted:Wasn't there a tire thread here? Anyway, I'm looking to replace the tires on my Camry and I'm between these Generals or these Yokohamas. I'm leaning towards the Yokohamas if the local tire shop has them in stock and will match the Tire Rack price. Otherwise the Generals have better ratings, so I'd go with them. Any thoughts on either tire? For a camry in normal weather (no insane rain or snow concerns) I would get whichever is cheaper between those two.
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Dec 17, 2015 22:55
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Deeters posted:Wasn't there a tire thread here? Anyway, I'm looking to replace the tires on my Camry and I'm between these Generals or these Yokohamas. I'm leaning towards the Yokohamas if the local tire shop has them in stock and will match the Tire Rack price. Otherwise the Generals have better ratings, so I'd go with them. Any thoughts on either tire? I ran similar models of each on my blazer at one time. The Yokohama's having that solid center piece made them odd in the cold. The generals seemed to handle better and were a smoother ride. I can't remember too much since it has been years but would prefer the generals overall.
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Dec 18, 2015 00:59
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I called the local tire shop, who didn't advertise Generals, and they offered to beat Tire Rack's price on them, so that's what I'm going with. Easier than I was expecting.
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Dec 18, 2015 01:02
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1995 Toyota RAV4. 5sp manual. A bit over an hour into a trip it popped out of 5th gear. Trying to put it back in it popped back out immediately. No problem with the other gears. I tried putting it in 5th while stationary. It stays. Loading it while stationary it still stays. The gearbox has always felt kind of notchy even the whole time the PO had it. I've never driven another manual rav4 so I don't know if that's normal. Suggestions or ideas?
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Dec 18, 2015 02:26
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2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I'm replacing my spark plug wires, and decided that I'll be going with an aftermarket brand (Hyundai dealership quoted me ~$160 CAD for complete set of OEM wires.  )Which brands are best, and which ones should be avoided? I found wires by Prestolite, Beck/Arnley, and Standard Motor Products on partsmonkey.com, but I haven't heard of any of those brands.
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Dec 18, 2015 03:59
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General_Failure posted:1995 Toyota RAV4. 5sp manual. Selfquote. Got home again okay and did a little research now I'm not being hassled by my provider about nearing my pathetic monthly data allowance. It's either something in the shifter assembly or the 5th gear. Kind of figured that but apparently it uses a cable shift which can have parts wear. There was no sign of anything untoward beforehand except the notchy shifting so I'm hoping it's just the shifter assembly.
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Dec 18, 2015 09:32
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I want to get a tonneau cover for my relative's Nissan Titan, and was wondering if there was a good brand to go with. I know I want the folding or roll type over the whole hard cover, and it needs to ship to hawaii, or maybe I could find one locally. Its probably the same as anything, pay more for something nice. Is there a pickup thread I should ask this in?
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Dec 18, 2015 20:39
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SlayVus posted:Well I installed a switch in one of the panels next to the lane changer. 20a switch, 12 Guage wire, 12 Guage male terminals that I trimmed on the sides to fit into the fuse. The switch successfully disables and enables the dash panel. This appears to be working. Two days straight, vehicle starts right up. No adverse effects that I'm aware of so far. Bought just enough wire that I was able to route it out of sight.
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Dec 19, 2015 00:15
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blindjoe posted:I want to get a tonneau cover for my relative's Nissan Titan, and was wondering if there was a good brand to go with. Are you more concerned for security or keeping stuff dry?
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Dec 19, 2015 01:12
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Amazon has an OEM set for $19 or a Denso set for $26! Denso is good! Beck/Arnley is good too. EDIT: Amazon.ca does not quite have the selection of amazon.com - the wire set is $53.69 CAD + 10 shipping on there. Anyway - the part number for the OEM wires is 27420-23700 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Dec 19, 2015 |
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Dec 19, 2015 01:31
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SFH1989 posted:I was involved in a hit and run about a month ago. The guy came forward ten days later (and got arrested). I just got the revised police report with his insurance info on it. From my wife, a formerly licensed adjuster and also an insurance customer service slave in a past life: Your best bet is to file through his first. If they delay or fail to take action after a week, file through your own insurance company. If you have full coverage, and depending on your state's laws and your underinsured motorist protections, you might have to pay your deductible (which your insurance company could subjugate back to you later). If you have liability only; your only option, you must go through his insurance company, or get ready to take it in the shorts.
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Dec 20, 2015 03:15
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Does anybody have a good method for cleaning coil pack contacts? I replaced my spark plug wires and I cleaned the contacts on the coil pack best I could, but couldn't get all the corrosion off because the contact is inside this tube and it's really hard to fit any kind of tool in there. Reason I ask is because the idle has slowly become a little rough again. Nowhere near what it was before but enough to make me think I should clean those contacts again.
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Dec 20, 2015 03:41
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We use contact cleaner spray for super expensive drilling tools at work and their connectors, i'd imagine it would work great for this too along with a small brush http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI
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Dec 20, 2015 04:05
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Kind of a bizarre question: I really like the feel of the seats in my 2002 Ford ZX2. I want to buy one and weld up a frame and make it into a recliner/computer chair. I have never bought a seat from a junkyard before. What's a rough idea of how much I should expect to pay for one in good shape (base cloth model, not a rare leather option or anything)? And for that matter, are seats often available in good shape or are they all going to be stained and trashed?
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Dec 20, 2015 05:29
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car-part.com will give you a solid idea of what to expect for pricing. Quality is going to be a different story, especially for a vehicle that old and cheap - I'd say most of the ones that end up in yards at this point have led a hard life. I bought a seat out of a junkyard for my C10, but it was from a Suburban that at the time was maybe three or four years old. Not enough time to do any real damage, but it was still insanely dusty. The truck it came from was obviously a front hit and they just cut the entire front clip off so it sat exposed in the yard. Took a lot of passes with wet and dry vacuums to get it clean.
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Dec 20, 2015 07:00
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Your best bet is to find a passenger seat from a commute vehicle. They tend to be in way better condition than the driver's side.
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Dec 20, 2015 08:00
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Sagebrush posted:Kind of a bizarre question: Car-part.com will show you all the local places that will pull it for you, and if you're looking to go to a pick n pull and yank one yourself (this is probably a good idea because you can make sure of the condition first) they list prices on their website. I just checked the Oakland pick n pull as an example, and they have a manual-rail bucket seat listed at $36.
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Dec 20, 2015 18:05
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Least technically-proficient regarding cars person ever chiming in: I have a '95 Nissan Pulsar Q hatchback whose starter motor is very likely kaput (evidence: car made horrible unhealthy noise while starting the last dozen or so time, then tonight failed to start completely - turning the key didn't even produce a sound, called the RAA for some roadside assistance and the guy was able to get it going by thumping on the starter motor while I turned the key, and reckons that it needs replacing.) As I understand it: 1. The starter motor is one of the easier engine components to replace, to the point of being well within the abilities of a moderately knowledgeable home mechanic. 2. Problems with the starter motor are not necessarily indicative of other problems (or likely follow-on problems) with other aspects of the car. 3. As it's a fairly discrete unit replacing it is not going to detriment any other part of my car's engine. 4. This is a relatively minor mechanical fault. Please correct me on any of the above that I've gotten wrong, and also any comment on the following would be appreciated: By my reasoning, the car is still functioning remarkably well for a vehicle that is old enough to vote. It has about 145km on the dial, the only ongoing problem is a small persistent oil leak that has been occurring for about 6 years now but that would be more expensive to fix than the car is worth and is manageable by replacing the oil once a year, and yet it runs very well, and suits my purposes (I use it maybe 2-3 times a week for shopping/visiting friends as I take public transport to work). I'm not one for throwing parts at a problem if the problem is insurmountable, but my plan is get the starter motor replaced, continue with its current usage, and at the first sign of any major problems or faults in the engine proper, take it out the back and give it a quiet and dignified funeral. Bonus question: what's the ballpark for a professional replacement including parts? I've sourced replacement parts online for ~$160 (http://www.autopartsmate.com.au/p/nissan-pulsar-n14-n15-n16-starter-motor-1.6-1.8/AM0298), and from what I can tell it's a fairly quick and routine fix? Any thoughts, comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Dec 21, 2015 15:16
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While I've got nothing for you in the way of an estimate, the rest of your assessment is dead on. Starters are only difficult if they are hard to get to, and on most cars they can be accessed easily. There is, of course, always the possibility of unforseen collateral damage. I swapped a starter in an early Saturn once with a very limited tool set, and one of the bolts chewed the hell out of its threads in the block. Had to spend as much time running around trying to put together a thread chaser to clean that out, as I did doing the rest of the job. There's also the possibility that the noise is from improper engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel / flexplate, which will be a much more involved repair.
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Dec 21, 2015 15:25
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Christobevii3 posted:We use contact cleaner spray for super expensive drilling tools at work and their connectors, i'd imagine it would work great for this too along with a small brush http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI I've tried a spray cleaner but I can't get rid of the corrosion with a contact cleaner alone, I guess what I'm looking for is tips on what kind of tools work best to get into the small holes. Not my picture but it looks like this:  And as you may imagine it's difficult to get into those holes. Also, mine looks similar with the green corrosion stuff in the holes. IOwnCalculus posted:There is, of course, always the possibility of unforseen collateral damage. I swapped a starter in an early Saturn once with a very limited tool set, and one of the bolts chewed the hell out of its threads in the block. Had to spend as much time running around trying to put together a thread chaser to clean that out, as I did doing the rest of the job. There's also the possibility that the noise is from improper engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel / flexplate, which will be a much more involved repair. You can avoid this by running in the bolts by hand and making sure they're not cross-threaded. Only once you're sure the bolts go in smooth you switch to your ratchet.
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Dec 21, 2015 15:54
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spankmeister posted:I've tried a spray cleaner but I can't get rid of the corrosion with a contact cleaner alone, I guess what I'm looking for is tips on what kind of tools work best to get into the small holes. Funny question, has the coil pack been replaced under recall? If not see if the dealer will just give you a new one. There was a recall on the mk4 coil packs many moons ago.
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Dec 21, 2015 16:56
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H110Hawk posted:Funny question, has the coil pack been replaced under recall? If not see if the dealer will just give you a new one. There was a recall on the mk4 coil packs many moons ago. No idea to be honest, would be nice, I'll call the VW dealer tomorrow. e: Did some digging, looks like it affected those per-plug coil packs only (idk what those are called). spankmeister fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Dec 21, 2015 |
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Dec 21, 2015 16:58
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spankmeister posted:You can avoid this by running in the bolts by hand and making sure they're not cross-threaded. Only once you're sure the bolts go in smooth you switch to your ratchet. I'd agree but it did this on the way out. I couldn't even get the bolt to start by hand until I cleaned all of the poo poo out of the threads, and I was amazed it torqued down properly. I still have no loving idea how it happened, other than that car was a cursed piece of poo poo.
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Dec 21, 2015 18:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's also the possibility that the noise is from improper engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel / flexplate, which will be a much more involved repair. This is true, but don't be put off by this Breetai, because the hammer trick worked it's almost definitely the starter itself. Only begin to be concerned if a replacement does not alleviate your strange noise.
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Dec 21, 2015 18:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd agree but it did this on the way out. I couldn't even get the bolt to start by hand until I cleaned all of the poo poo out of the threads, and I was amazed it torqued down properly. I still have no loving idea how it happened, other than that car was a cursed piece of poo poo. Maybe the PO was a 300 pound gorilla and he overtorqued it?
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Dec 21, 2015 18:45
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spankmeister posted:Maybe the PO was a 300 pound gorilla and he overtorqued it? Yeah. Thread galling, or plastic deformation of the threads so they're no longer the right shape to come out cleanly.
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Dec 21, 2015 18:48
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