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nm posted:
I think the full list was CV Boots, Transmission Valve, Catalytic Converter, Cooling Fan, Vacuum Pump, and labor of course for it all.
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Dec 22, 2015 17:45
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RedMagus posted:I think the full list was CV Boots, Transmission Valve, Catalytic Converter, Cooling Fan, Vacuum Pump, and labor of course for it all. Does you car have under 80k mi and was its in service date within 8 years (possible). If so, some of it may be emissions warranty. (8/80 is federal minimum) Some cars have longer emissions warranties, so that may be worth looking up. Also, that still seems like way too much for that.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:11
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RedMagus posted:I think the full list was CV Boots, Transmission Valve, Catalytic Converter, Cooling Fan, Vacuum Pump, and labor of course for it all. That still shouldn't be even close to 10k, even for a VW at dealership parts and labor rates. You're either getting taken for a ride, or there's a lot more on that list.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:30
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Not surprised. Thanks for the heads up all.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:45
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Like there's an extra zero there. Ten grand should get you in the range of an entirely new (as in, factory-new, not rebuilt) engine and transmission, plus labor. You've listed a sub-$1000 repair. Could there be a hilarious typo on your estimate?
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Dec 22, 2015 23:21
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Leperflesh posted:Like there's an extra zero there. Ten grand should get you in the range of an entirely new (as in, factory-new, not rebuilt) engine and transmission, plus labor. You've listed a sub-$1000 repair. Could there be a hilarious typo on your estimate? I don't think it is that low. VW cats are stupid expensive. OEM on my passat was like $2k. And you can't use aftermarket much anymore. But 10k is crack smoking insane.
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Dec 23, 2015 00:44
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Proposed Budget: 35k (U.S.) New or Used: Open to either Body Style: Wagon / Hatch How will you be using the car?: Going down to a one-car household. Wife will daily (40 mile round trip), with the occasional 400-600 mile trip a few times a year. We need the hatch/wagon because we transport out dogs and hiking gear on these trips as well as this one vehicle being our only hauler. Neither of us want an SUV or CUV. What aspects are most important to you? We're both coming from econo cars, and would like to step up into something nicer to be in for six hours at a time. I hate the term "near-luxury" but I guess it applies to what we're looking for. Currently we're cross shopping a new Mazda 3 in a high trim level, a GTI/Golf, and a Lexus CT200h. I know Merc and BMW make wagons but would prefer to avoid those fees down the road. We looked at V70's but they are outside our price range. Just wondering if there is something I haven't considered yet.
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Dec 23, 2015 20:10
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Acura TSX wagon is pretty nice. Have to buy one used though. Maybe a used volvo v60, dunno about reliability on new volvos though. If you are considering a golf/ gti, look at the jetta wagon. Same platform, more space. If you're avoiding german lux for reliability reasons, vw might not be much better for you. Caddy CTS wagon. I don't love the way they look though. nm fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Dec 23, 2015 |
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Dec 23, 2015 20:24
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Accord Crosstour
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Dec 24, 2015 02:51
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I knew about the TSX & CTS wagon, but finding one is like gold dust in my area. We tried the the sedan versions of those cars just to get a feel for them. I liked both; she didn't enjoy the "cool grandpa" vibe the CTS was giving her. The faux woodtrim in the model we sat in didn't help. Accord Crosstour was out, too big for her tastes which is why she also shot down the Crosstrek XV or whatever Subaru is calling them now. Your comment about the VW expenses raises a valid concern I had. I was wondering if they didn't deserve that moniker, if it was a holdover from the 90's like the "all American cars are crap" one that held on way longer than was actually true. In Honesty I'm just as guilty for holding a grudge, I owned a mid-90's Audi that was a pile of poo poo.
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Dec 24, 2015 17:35
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I think VW issues depend on the motor. Like the 2.5 is reliable, but slow and drink gas. My friends with gtis (2.0 turbo) have had a bunch of issues. Probably still going to develop lol vw issues (coolant in the taillamp), but fewer than the 90s and 00s. Have you tried the acura? Really nice. Drive the sedan, then fly to one. A southwest ticket is what, $200? If you want wagons, you gotta be willing to fly, they're all just so rare. I had to fly to utah for my subaru.
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Dec 24, 2015 19:21
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Impreza hatch back? It it is lower to the ground and slightly smaller than the XV CrossTrek.
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Dec 24, 2015 19:22
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Proposed Budget: 25k New or Used: Open to either Body Style: Hatchback? How will you be using the car?: Maybe around 10k-11k miles total per year between two people? A 30 mile round trip commute three times a week, and minimal driving around town. Between the two of us, we take about eight 300 mile round trips throughout the year to see family. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, safety, fuel economy. I'm looking to replace a 2005 Ford Escape that has about 115k miles on it. My dad (who is now about 150 miles away) has spent a long time repairing, buying, and selling cars, and he has been nice enough to work on my cars whenever necessary. He is starting to get older and has a rough time doing this now, so I'm trying to stop relying on his help to cheaply maintain my older vehicles. He recently fixed a shock that broke loose from the passenger-side wheel well because of rust (a fairly common problem on this generation of Escape, I discovered) by installing a new wheelhouse panel. While it was in his care, he discovered it needed a new front wheel bearing and he welded a hole in the exhausted up for me as well. Anyways, in light of these and other problems cropping up recently, he is of the opinion that I should try to sell it, and start looking for a new vehicle. He thinks we can get $2500 to $3000 for it. Does this sound like a reasonable price to sell it for? It has all the repairs listed above, a fuel pump with about 30k miles on it, and a set of tires with like 5k miles, but it was rear ended recently and as a result has a replacement bumper cover that looks a little off, and the corner of the liftgate also looks off from being bent back into shape. In my search, I have taken both the Prius and the Mazda3 for a test drive. The Prius was perfectly fine, but I wasn't a huge fan. I liked the Mazda3 quite a lot though. Given the aspects that are most important to me that I listed above, is this a reasonable choice? I'll miss the extra space the Escape had for hauling poo poo around in the back, but not too much I imagine. I have been emailing a lot of dealers nearby and can seem to get a new 2015 Mazda3 i Grand Touring Hatchback for $23k out-the-door, taxes and fees included. Is this a reasonable price? I live in the Salt Belt, so hopefully the Mazda3 has a decent time holding up against corrosion? Outside of keeping it in a garage, what is the best way to combat rust?
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Dec 24, 2015 22:36
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Springfield Fatts posted:Accord Crosstour was out, too big for her tastes which is why she also shot down the Crosstrek XV or whatever Subaru is calling them now. The Crosstrek is one of the smallest cars Subaru makes? Have you actually sat in one?
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Dec 25, 2015 16:01
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Wiggly posted:The Crosstrek is one of the smallest cars Subaru makes? Have you actually sat in one? The Crosstour isn't that big either but they're both over 60" tall vs a Mazda3 so I guess that's how big is too big.
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Dec 25, 2015 16:10
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Essentially. She wants car height, but she's coming from a Fiat 500 so everything feels huge to her.
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Dec 25, 2015 18:51
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Is there such a thing as a "typical" APR for a vehicle loan (motorcycle in this case)? I have excellent credit, at 770 or so, but the best loan I've seen so far on $11,000 was 5.25% at 60 months with $300 down, which seems rather a high percentage; I seem to recall low-mid 4s being more typical.
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Dec 26, 2015 21:20
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Ciaphas posted:5.25% at 60 months with $300 down, which seems rather a high percentage If you want to be in the high 3s or 4's your looking at 36 month loans with 10% or more down. Financing $11k with 2.7% down over 5 years on what is most often little more than a toy screams "I'M BAD WITH MONEY" so you will be charged accordingly.
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Dec 26, 2015 21:27
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That would explain why my memory is playing me false, been a long time since I've financed and that time I had some 25% down (still at 60 months if I recall right). Thanks for the reminder, I legit forgot how much more money down affects APR.
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Dec 26, 2015 21:42
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I'm going to have a kid, which means that my 08 focus 2-door coupe is going to be wildly impractical. But having a kid, and hoping to afford a house next year means budget is a real factor. Proposed Budget: 5-20K Cheaper is usually better. New or Used: probably used, Body Style: I want a wagon, but no one sells them in the US. How will you be using the car?: commute and daycare runs, semi-regular trips to friends and family a few hours away. What aspects are most important to you? Gotta be a manual. Interior space should be practical. No SUV/ crossover bodies. Should run forever. Good or at least decent handling required. I know exactly what car I want - a lighly used Ford Focus Wagon. Too bad Ford hasn't sold those in the US for what, 9 years? I'd love a wagon that's not a VW, but there's really few options. Am I stuck with the next best thing, a hatchback? Here's cars I'm thinking about : - Honda Fit. Dorky, but wildly practical. Given the fact used Hondas are so expensive I'd probably get it new. - Mazda 3 hatch. Should be nice to drive. - Ford Focus hatch. My current Focus has been dead reliable and much nicer handling than its humdrum status suggests. Given the reliability of the one I have, I'd feel fairly confident buying used. Anything I'm forgetting? My wife wants to look at Subaru Imprezas, but I'm pretty wary of the giant growth spurt Subaru is going through.
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Dec 26, 2015 21:46
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The basic concept here is that the loan is secured by the asset you are buying. If you don't put enough down so that you've paid them more than it's worth through the life of the loan the interest rate goes up to cover their risk. On a motorcycle and over 5 years..........you need to put almost half of it down to get a good rate. You're better off getting a personal loan secured by something more stable (like a house, or an investment portfolio).
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Dec 26, 2015 21:47
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Motronic posted:The basic concept here is that the loan is secured by the asset you are buying. If you don't put enough down so that you've paid them more than it's worth through the life of the loan the interest rate goes up to cover their risk. Thanks. I'm like a salesman's wet dream, easily confused by even basic financing, so getting things cleared up like this helps. (I do tend to do things slowly for that reason  )If it were a shorter term like 36 months would that significantly affect the APR, generally speaking? It didn't seem to on the trial online application I made at Wells--they said between 6.3 and 6.5 depending on duration with that small down. (I know I'd be paying less interest overall, I just wonder if the APR would be affected.)
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Dec 26, 2015 21:54
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Brand new motorcycles depreciate hilariously quickly, and the financing options reflect that. IMO motorcycles are something you should pay all cash for, or at least have cash on hand for the full price and finance less than half the total cost. The interest rates, even with excellent credit, just don't make it a smart decision to finance. And if you finance you've got to carry expensive collision insurance as well. Especially when you can easily buy a 3-5 year old good-as-new low miles motorcycle from some guy who bought it new and hardly rode the thing for half off the new price.
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Dec 26, 2015 21:56
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Ciaphas posted:If it were a shorter term like 36 months would that significantly affect the APR, generally speaking? Yes. Because a 5 year old cycle isn't worth poo poo. It still might be worth something at 3 years old. But this is the correct advice: Guinness posted:Brand new motorcycles depreciate hilariously quickly, and the financing options reflect that.
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Dec 26, 2015 22:08
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Cool, thanks for the advice. Sucks to do so--driving that Zero was great fun, and I had intended to use it for my day to day commute--but I'll wait until I've got most of the cash, since used Zeros (or electric bikes in general) might as well not exist.
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Dec 26, 2015 22:26
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Thank you for the tractor information. It was very helpful. Unrelated inquiry: What's a good ball-park pricerange for a turbocharger?
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Dec 27, 2015 02:06
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ma i married a tuna posted:I'm going to have a kid, which means that my 08 focus 2-door coupe is going to be wildly impractical. But having a kid, and hoping to afford a house next year means budget is a real factor. People in this thread were getting Focus Titanium Hatches for like $16k brand new a year or so ago, a used one is probably worth next to nothing so that's probably the way to go.
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Dec 27, 2015 02:20
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How does it work when dealers bring in a car from another dealer for you? They all offer to do it, but it seems to me that would hurt your leverage a lot on the sale, and it would make more sense just to make a drive to the other dealer. But maybe I'm wrong?
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Dec 27, 2015 17:23
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RedMagus posted:Proposed Budget: 15-20k, should be able to get a PenFed loan I've been hunting around, looking at the Ford Focus, Mazda 3, and a bit at the Ford Fusion (have a friend who's worked on Fords their entire life, so I can trade tech support for car support at least). Anything to watch out for on those three? I've seen the Mazda 3 get tossed around a bit, and the Focus they trotted out while a little tight in the knees, I can pick up for around 12400 thanks to PenFed Carbuying services.
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Dec 27, 2015 17:57
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Throatwarbler posted:People in this thread were getting Focus Titanium Hatches for like $16k brand new a year or so ago, a used one is probably worth next to nothing so that's probably the way to go. I must be doing something horribly wrong, because when I look for, 2013 or 2014 used Focuses on sites, dealers, and craigslist, I never see anything under 21K. That probably includes some room for negotiation, but I doubt it's 8K of wiggleroom.
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Dec 27, 2015 18:55
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Well I'm pretty poor but I got 4k in cash and I want some boring reliable car that does well in snow. I would like to not have to take out of loan for a car. And I live in Neveda if that helps. Anyone got any recommendations?
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Dec 27, 2015 20:20
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Welp you guys were totally right, after doing lots more research and test drives the Mazda 3 came out on top for me. Just picked up a '16 i Touring hatchback in red tonight.  Are extended warranties a good idea ever? They offered me a 6 year/75K bumper to bumper with a $100 deductible (so it'd kick in after the 3 year included warranty ends) for $2,200. I took it because they said I could cancel it whenever so it seemed low-risk to take advantage of the discount they had if I got it right away. I have never had a new car before so I'm really not sure if I should expect any expensive repairs from 3-6 years of age. I'm heading over there tomorrow anyway, should I just be a jerk and cancel it then?
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Dec 28, 2015 07:49
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HondaCivet posted:Welp you guys were totally right, after doing lots more research and test drives the Mazda 3 came out on top for me. Just picked up a '16 i Touring hatchback in red tonight. So it's really $2,200 for a 3-year extension on the original warranty? I would say not worth it. Spontaneously needed repairs exceeding $2,200 in the first 6 years of normal driving seem very unlikely.
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Dec 28, 2015 09:09
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Michael Scott posted:So it's really $2,200 for a 3-year extension on the original warranty? I would say not worth it. Spontaneously needed repairs exceeding $2,200 in the first 6 years of normal driving seem very unlikely. Yeah minus the $100 deductible part it's exactly the same as the original 3-year warranty. But yeah, the more I read and think about it the less likely it seems like a thing I'd actually need.
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Dec 28, 2015 09:19
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HondaCivet posted:Welp you guys were totally right, after doing lots more research and test drives the Mazda 3 came out on top for me. Just picked up a '16 i Touring hatchback in red tonight. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay OTD? I'm going to check one out in a little bit, and I've checked out Edmunds and TrueCar, but it would be nice to get a better idea of what people are actually paying.
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Dec 28, 2015 14:31
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Colour posted:If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay OTD? I'm going to check one out in a little bit, and I've checked out Edmunds and TrueCar, but it would be nice to get a better idea of what people are actually paying. If it matters, I'm in the Portland, OR area. On just the base car ('16 i Touring hatchback in red, which costs extra) with my own financing they gave me $20,840. With Mazda financing it would've been another $500 off but I got a way better interest rate from my own credit union of course. From what I can tell it was a pretty good deal. They also gave me a respectable amount on my trade-in, after some grumbling anyway, so overall it was hard to refuse.
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Dec 28, 2015 17:51
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Shwqa posted:Well I'm pretty poor but I got 4k in cash and I want some boring reliable car that does well in snow. I would like to not have to take out of loan for a car. And I live in Neveda if that helps. 4K is a tight budget for a reliable car but doable if you know what you're doing. I'd find a friend who can help you take a close look at car condition and pick the front wheel drive sedan that he or she is most comfortable looking over.
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Dec 29, 2015 14:52
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Thanks in advance, thread! Proposed Budget: 14k-22k New or Used: Used, 1-3 years, off lease. Or, New, if recommended/price is right Body Style: SUV, Crossover SUV How will you be using the car?: Need to transport new  and dog. Modest luggage on longer trips, but mostly short (< 3 mile) commute and errand running around town.What aspects are most important to you? Reliability and cost of ownership are huge. Safety features outweigh any bells/whistles. Will be driven in Midwest snow during winter months. We currently have 2 Accords that we absolutely love, but will sell one. Naturally, we are interested in CR-Vs given our great experiences with Honda. However, the CX-5, Rav-4 and Escape also seem like decent options. Out of (possibly misguided) distrust in their reliability, I haven't put much thought into Kias or Hyundais -- I'd be open to rethinking this though if the thread's wisdom feels they are worth another look. Thanks again.
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Dec 29, 2015 19:29
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tl;dr: Should I get a used Suzuki Jimny/Samurai for traveling out into the bush in West Africa, given that all I need to haul is two people and a few backpacks, and I want something light that's easy to get unstuck? Working in rural West Africa, and the go-to bush-capable vehicles out here look to be the Toyota Landcruiser (beloved of NGOs and the UN), various Landrovers, and Nissan Patrol. The next tier lower (4Runner and Pathfinder) get used for paved areas, but serious companies don't send them to the bush generally. Local dirt-poor Liberians will send about any drat thing into the bush; I've spent some really long days bumping around the backroads at 5-10mph jammed with six other people into a Toyota Corolla. My purposes involve some highway driving (at ridiculously low speeds, I don't think I've ever topped 50mph on even the best highways here), and a lot of dirt road driving on roads that can get pretty iffy, and a scattering of driving on "roads" that are really more just like two dirt tracks where the brush has been knocked/cut back along the sides. I don't have any need for true cross-county offroading or anything crazy, but I have had to navigate some huge potholes and mud-pits where dirt roads get washed out, and have absolutely had to use 4wd many times to get up and down steep dirt tracks in a lovely JAC pickup truck (great little Mitsubishi engine in a lovely Chinese frame), etc. Though these larger SUVs are the default standard, one of my colleagues absolutely swears by her Jeep Wrangler, saying she's gotten it all kinds of places where larger vehicles bog down, is way easier to recover or self-recover, etc. Clearly it's not going to carry anywhere near the gear and crew that a Landcruiser is, but she tends to do gigs where it's just one or two people heading way out into the bush to inspect or monitor worksites, so limited capacity isn't an issue. I may have a string of gigs coming up in Liberia and maybe Senegal (possibly later Mali) that involve going out into the sticks along 4-6 hour stretches of dirt roads, but where I don't need to haul any gear or people other than a crew of two and a few backpacks. I would almost want to just go with dirtbikes, but that's extremely limiting on gear, probably less safe, and even less comfortable for long days of driving (like ones where we do five hours on dirt roads and then the next five on the paved highways to get home). I don't want to get a Jeep Wrangler for various reasons, including an antipathy to "American" cars, the Wrangler's relatively high price, and they're pretty uncommon in Liberia so my friend has often had to get even basic parts brought into country in friends' luggage from South Africa or Europe to keep it running. Recently I ran across a Suzuki Jimny/Samurai for the first time here, and was immediately infatuated with it, and from a little reading online it appears that the Jimny is roughly similar to the Wrangler, just cruder/simpler/cheaper. Given my situation, would the Jimny/Samurai be a potentially useful option? Here's a good GoogleImages example of the kinds of things I've commonly run across:   Proposed Budget: Maybe US$5-10k? I have no idea what a Jimny costs here but I can ask around. For reference, a 19yr old Landcruiser cost us like US$9k here, and when that became a maintenance headache we sold it at a big loss and paid another expat US$5k for a 9yr old Nissan Pathfinder. New or Used: definitely used because we're a small for-profit company with limited budget. Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?): ultra-compact SUV, something really tough but small that won't get bogged down and/or is easy to un-bog. How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle?: driving on dirt roads or tracks for hours at a time. Probably never towing, and I wouldn't be using it to haul anything heavy like cement or metal. Just two people (with occasional short trips with a person or two sitting in the bed or clinging to the bars) and a few backpacks, maybe occasionally some big sacks of food, or small batches of gear like spools of wire, crate of nails, etc. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?): Nope, the simpler the better. I would like to have at least a few "bush" mods like maybe a bracket for a small fuel jerrycan, maybe elevated lights, brush guard, and I'd really like to put a winch on the front for self-recovery if that's at all affordable. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style): Probably low-speed capability on rough roads, followed by ease of maintenance. 3. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot: Liberia and thereabouts in West Africa. We mostly get a smaller sampling of the same American and Japanese cars/trucks you see in the US, but with the addition of a few Euro lines like Renault, BMW and Mercedes work vehicles, etc. TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 29, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 19:36
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HondaCivet posted:If it matters, I'm in the Portland, OR area. On just the base car ('16 i Touring hatchback in red, which costs extra) with my own financing they gave me $20,840. With Mazda financing it would've been another $500 off but I got a way better interest rate from my own credit union of course. From what I can tell it was a pretty good deal. They also gave me a respectable amount on my trade-in, after some grumbling anyway, so overall it was hard to refuse. In the future confirm if there is any required period you have to finance with them or any early repayment fee. There usually isn't and you can finance through the brands own credit arm for the rebate then immediately refi through your own financing.
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Dec 29, 2015 20:12
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