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Zero VGS posted:I have an auto insurance question, didn't see a thread for that here or BFC so I figure I'll just ask. Ask them for enough lithium batteries to fill an Got any pics of the damage? The "safety frame", from the articles I've read, sounds like a typical modern unibody, not anything crazy advanced. Depending on the damage, pulling the dents may or may not be acceptable. PS: put collision coverage on your car if you care about it, that's what it's for. I don't bother because I can buy a replacement vehicle in the same condition for less than the premium increase costs over 2-3 years, but if you have a car that's actually in good shape, protect it.
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Dec 31, 2015 19:33
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kastein posted:PS: put collision coverage on your car if you care about it, that's what it's for. I don't bother because I can buy a replacement vehicle in the same condition for less than the premium increase costs over 2-3 years, but if you have a car that's actually in good shape, protect it. Eh, the car is worth 25k according to the state (I got murdered on the sales tax), but I practically stole it on eBay for $11k because electric cars aren't an impulse auction bid for most, and the guy listed it as "smart for tow" instead of "ForTwo" and took terrible pictures in a dark garage which all worked in my favor. I also don't bother with collision insurance because until this I haven't been in a crash in 15 years and even this was the other guy's fault. I always have my dashcam running, drive defensively and I even drive slower and smoother in this to maximize the range. I don't use my car to commute to work, just errands and weekend warrior stuff, so I can live if it's somehow destroyed and my fault. Plus I got USAA and it's awesome to only pay $300 for the whole year 
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Dec 31, 2015 20:06
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So you don't understand power density OR insurance/basic adult financial matters. Make sure you've got comprehensive on that thing so maybe you have a chance of getting it paid out when you burn it down with your
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Dec 31, 2015 20:21
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Hmmm, something weird. 2001 BMW 325i - no crank, no start. Radio comes on but lights have started to dim as I was testing the EWS. Got a multimeter on the battery to check and it's showing me 13.5 volts when the car is off and 8.5~ on? If it was flat as my dim bulbs would suggest, shouldn't it not be that high when off?
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Dec 31, 2015 21:23
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Cthulhuite posted:Hmmm, something weird. 2001 BMW 325i - no crank, no start. Radio comes on but lights have started to dim as I was testing the EWS. Got a multimeter on the battery to check and it's showing me 13.5 volts when the car is off and 8.5~ on? If it was flat as my dim bulbs would suggest, shouldn't it not be that high when off? Dead cell in the battery. Replace it.
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Dec 31, 2015 21:25
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Even trashed batteries can recover to near-full voltage at no load. The fact that it drops to <9V with the minimal load of your lights / computers means that battery is toast.
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Dec 31, 2015 21:26
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Awesome, time to lug a new battery home on the bus. Thanks!
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Dec 31, 2015 21:29
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Zero VGS posted:Eh, the car is worth 25k according to the state (I got murdered on the sales tax), but I practically stole it on eBay for $11k because electric cars aren't an impulse auction bid for most, and the guy listed it as "smart for tow" instead of "ForTwo" and took terrible pictures in a dark garage which all worked in my favor. Oh my god. You're amazing.
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Jan 1, 2016 07:13
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Enos Cabell posted:Picked up an 04 Accord last month, and just discovered that the windshield washer fluid isn't working quite right. I do get fluid, but it arcs out about 2" or so and doesn't hit the windshield. The stream looks almost exactly like what you'd see from a lower powered drinking fountain. Replaced the pump, and now I'm getting nothing out of the sprayers at all. I can hear the pump working, but it's not doing anything.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:55
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If you undo a hose to the sprayers does it flow?
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Jan 1, 2016 21:28
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Christobevii3 posted:If you undo a hose to the sprayers does it flow? I'll have to remove the cowling this afternoon and check.
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Jan 1, 2016 21:50
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Safety Dance posted:A friend of mine has a beater Geo Prizm. He says that the car runs like crap (stutters, stumbles, but will idle) when cold and damp, but once it reaches operating temperature, it's fine. He can get it to start by kicking the pedal while cranking until it starts sputtering, then it's fine. Probably the coolant temp sensor (the one for the ECU, not the one for the gauge, if it uses two). Sounds like it thinks it's warm when it's not, so it's not enriching the mixture when it's cold.
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Jan 2, 2016 01:59
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Honda goons (STR? Doogle?) I'm helping a friend pull the head and do the head gasket on an '87 Civic SI, I believe the engine is an EW3/D15A3 and as such is completely different from the more usual Honda fare? Anyway, he's a BMW guy and I'm a domestic V8 guy, so we're both out of our element. We have undone the manifolds, hoses, distributor, timing belt and bracket, as well as the 10 head bolts (well, 3 studs and 7 bolts), but the head doesn't want to come loose. He even tried applying some force with a prybar, and it doesn't want to budge. Are we missing something, or do we just need to apply more tard strength to the problem? It's giving more grief than a big heavy iron block SBC head, even though it's a tiny little aluminum thing. This makes me think we have to have missed a fastener or something, but it could just be that we're being too delicate with it. Any suggestions? Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 02:04
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I'm sure people like kastein could answer this one while comatose. '95 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. Automatic. Transmission oil needs a top up. It's just a little above the fill line. Can I use Dex III?
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Jan 2, 2016 04:33
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Raluek posted:Honda goons (STR? Doogle?) Not an engine I've touched, but the exploded parts diagram I found for an 86 w/fuel injection (which should be the same engine) shows 10 fasteners. Bolts (numbered in order of installation/tightening):  The exploded diagram  I know the DOHC head for my Integra (B18A) was about 45-55 pounds with cams installed, that one should be a little lighter. edit: goddamn I'm an idiot. fixed. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 08:31
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Surely that diagram when it says "10x1.25" it means 10mm width, 1.25mm thread pitch? It shows three studs (which matches my memory) and the other 7 are bolts. For instance, there aren't 6 bolts holding the upper timing cover on, they are 6mm bolts. Or have I mis-interpreted what you said?
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Jan 2, 2016 09:09
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 No, you're right. I shouldn't be posting while that tired.Yeah, it's 10 fasteners total. Only other thing I can think of is the intake manifold support bracket, but I'm 99% sure that only bolts to the block and intake. Was it overheated badly? It could be warped enough to be stuck on the studs.
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Jan 2, 2016 10:14
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some texas redneck posted:
That's a good point. The HG failed when the radiator cap was forgotten, and the car was driven through the mountains without it. I don't know how badly it overheated, though. I'll see if there is an easy way to pull the studs, although I don't think they protrude enough to get two nuts on them.
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Jan 2, 2016 14:42
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I've never owned a car due to living in the greater Boston area but due to a new job, I finally get to purchase one in a few months. The Honda CR-Z caught my eye, but it's a hybrid. Are hybrid cars something suitable for a day to day car and a primary car? Further, are they suitable for someone who isn't car enthusiast yet?
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Jan 2, 2016 20:19
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Serenade posted:I've never owned a car due to living in the greater Boston area but due to a new job, I finally get to purchase one in a few months. In general, a hybrid is basically just a normal car but with a souped-up alternator and battery. In a normal car the engine turns the alternator to generate battery power for your accessories. In a hybrid, the alternator can be used to brake the engine, which stores power in the battery, and it can reverse the process to turn the alternator to push your car along at low speeds, like stop-and-go driving. The regeneration process is only like 50% efficient, but reclaiming that energy is a lot better than 100% of the energy wasted with traditional braking. For the mileage you gain, the car costs more due to the drivetrain complexity. There are more parts to break, however your braking system in particular suffers much less wear. Right now the low gas prices are making hybrids less appealing but there's no telling what gas will cost in the years to come. A good rule of thumb is to look at taxis in your area. If you see a lot of hybrids, that's because it's the best utilitarian bang for the buck (for the level of hours/traffic they're anticipating) with no considerations for sportiness. You see a lot in NY and Boston. The CR-Z is a weird one. It has exceptional aerodynamics, which helps with highway mileage, as well as being lightweight, which should help for stop-and-go in the city, but the numbers don't add up for either performance or economy. It's also the only hybrid you can get in manual, if that's your kind of thing. Are you saying you're moving out of Boston? You should think about whether you're going to have driveway/street parking, and how often you're going to need to cram people in the rear seats.
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Jan 2, 2016 20:59
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Are optimal brand brake products good? Right now they are the cheapest brake rotors for my car (2001 Saab 9-5) on eeuroparts, but it says the original price is like $126. Are these great rotors for really cheap, or am I missing something? The rotors in question: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/58965/Disc-Brake-Rotor-Front-288mm-BS4940/
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Jan 2, 2016 21:30
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Zero VGS posted:In general, a hybrid is basically just a normal car but with a souped-up alternator and battery. In a normal car the engine turns the alternator to generate battery power for your accessories. In a hybrid, the alternator can be used to brake the engine, which stores power in the battery, and it can reverse the process to turn the alternator to push your car along at low speeds, like stop-and-go driving. The regeneration process is only like 50% efficient, but reclaiming that energy is a lot better than 100% of the energy wasted with traditional braking. For the mileage you gain, the car costs more due to the drivetrain complexity. There are more parts to break, however your braking system in particular suffers much less wear. Right now the low gas prices are making hybrids less appealing but there's no telling what gas will cost in the years to come. I'm going to be living in a Boston suburb (near the i95 and i93 if it helps), but my commute is now going to be the opposite direction of traffic, going from north of Boston to New Hampshire. It's almost all highway with only one particular area that becomes stop and go often for about 5 miles. I can't drive a manual, yet. I have a driveway, and very rarely plan on giving multiple people rides. A roommate has a 5 seater for when that can't be avoided. That's part of the reason I want a 2 door, 2 seater that at the very least feels vaguely sport-y.
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Jan 2, 2016 21:31
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Serenade posted:I'm going to be living in a Boston suburb (near the i95 and i93 if it helps), but my commute is now going to be the opposite direction of traffic, going from north of Boston to New Hampshire. It's almost all highway with only one particular area that becomes stop and go often for about 5 miles. The benefits of a hybrid are almost completely lost if you're doing highway speeds with no traffic, so you're really just buying a CR-Z for the style at that point. Weirdly, the CRZ's three-decade-old predecessor, the CRX, gets better highway mileage (over 50mpg!) without being a hybrid. I'll leave you with a hilarious primer on the CRX, since we're out of my area of expertise now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZXQHlgy5gU
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Jan 2, 2016 21:58
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My chevy express 3500 Diesel van blower motor is not working, heat blows through at high speeds but not by the motor - there is 0 voltage between the + and - electrodes before the blower (after the resistor) - the Resistor input wires show 14.2(ish) volts on the Low, Mid1, and Mid2 - Replacing the resistor did not solve the problem - still 0 volts across post-resistor + and -, All other HVAC controls work, I can not find any fuse that appears burned out. What else could it be? Edit: To elaborate There IS 14+ DCV between notes A and C showing that all electrical supply / ground reaching the resistor is working based on electrical diagrams I have found. Expotential fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 22:03
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Are optimal brand brake products good? Right now they are the cheapest brake rotors for my car (2001 Saab 9-5) on eeuroparts, but it says the original price is like $126. Are these great rotors for really cheap, or am I missing something? Brake rotors are about as simple as car parts get - you just need a big iron disc to act as a surface for the brake pads to ride against and convert kinetic energy into thermal energy. As long as they're machined to the correct specification for your car there really isn't much else manufacturers can do with them. As long as it's not from some fly by night Chinese company just get the cheapest rotor you can find.
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Jan 2, 2016 22:26
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Zero VGS posted:The benefits of a hybrid are almost completely lost if you're doing highway speeds with no traffic, so you're really just buying a CR-Z for the style at that point. That video is part of the reason I started looking at cars of that shape, before I was just looking at hot hatchbacks. I would absolutely plan on buying a CRX if that's something one could do reliably. I've found that on craigslist and ebay, there aren't too many CRX's being sold for anything other than parts in Massachusetts. Not none but pretty slim pickings. It is good to know, though, that a hybrid thing is a viable purchase but isn't always a better case in terms of mileage. I'll keep looking around, but won't totally rule out the CRZ.
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Jan 2, 2016 22:48
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If you want a tiny honda of similar aesthetics and mpg of a CRX/CRZ, the del sol is an option. There are lots of them still zinging around non-rustbelt states. If you want something newer, the only Honda that sort of lives up to the spirit of the older tiny cars is the Fit, which is a great little vehicle if you are not concerned about straight line speed. They handle very well.
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Jan 3, 2016 01:47
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Finding a non riced out crx/del sol that's not best to poo poo is like finding a unicorn on mars. You want Mpg get a geo storm.
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Jan 3, 2016 01:54
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The gaskets for the exhaust manifold I ordered on Amazon arrived bent/damaged. They weren't protected at all, just loose in the box with the manifold, and the flange gasket was greasy/has bolt marks(?!). I have half a mind to complain but I don't know how cooperative they're going to be. If they tell me I have to ship it back on my dime that's a losing proposition. Plus I really wanted to get this thing installed this weekend. Will these things still seal or am I going to have to insist on getting them replaced with new ones?   
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Jan 3, 2016 03:39
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Contact the seller, if they won't refund on pictures then amazon will. Buy a gasket locally so you don't have this happen unless cost is that big.
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Jan 3, 2016 04:16
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I bought a complete manifold, the gaskets came with it. I just want to know whether these are still usable.
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Jan 3, 2016 04:38
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I am looking for recommendations good online stores for buying parts for Japanese vehicles. Currently I use FCP Euro a lot for my own vehicles (all European) but they closed down FCP Import and I'm wondering if there are any other similar stores which cater towards Mazda/Toyota/Honda/Nissan/ect. I know about Rockauto but any other good ones?
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Jan 3, 2016 05:15
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I would not trust them. However you should be able to work out a partial refund for the cost of the gaskets - Amazon would probably prefer not to pay to ship back the whole package.
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Jan 3, 2016 05:54
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Update, I finally fixed what I thought was hard shifting on my 00 Camry 2.2l, turns out the motor mounts were so shot that the entire engine was lifting when it changed gears, go figure. So onto the next issue, my idle/rpms below 1.5k have been getting rougher over time and gets worse if you drive it gently, if I floor it to get up to speed and get the revs up to about 5-6k the idle mellows out significantly(but doesn't fully smooth out) until it's had time to cool off, which starts the process over again. If you don't blow it out like that it gets progressively worse until you do. Highway speeds are great with no roughness I can detect. No check engine lights or pending codes. Anyone have any ideas? I'm suspecting sticky injectors but don't want to drop the money for new ones if it might be something else. I've also been really low on power lately, like bad for a 4cyl camry. IAC/plugs/plug wires are new.
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Jan 3, 2016 06:07
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I hate carpeted floors in cars and I don't care what it will cost, I want to replace the carpeted floor in my brand new car with something that is not carpet (and it's a model that had no such options because apparently the only other people that feel the way I do drive Jeeps and that weird Honda SUV that I once snowboarded through in some old PS snowboard game). It doesn't matter if it's rigid plastic or brushed aluminum or sapphire or whatever. Who do I get to do this and what is it called and what's the best way to do this and not spend so much money that I feel stupid?
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Jan 3, 2016 06:25
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Most new cars have rubber mats available. But removing the carpet entirely will be difficult, as they are wrapped up onto the center dash and in one piece with the rear carpet nowadays.
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Jan 3, 2016 06:31
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Familiar Foreigner posted:Update, I finally fixed what I thought was hard shifting on my 00 Camry 2.2l, turns out the motor mounts were so shot that the entire engine was lifting when it changed gears, go figure. Is this a real life danger to the intake manifold scenario because of bad motors mounts? May be worth checking the IAC and the distributor for leaking o ring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZKTYH65EtI
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Jan 3, 2016 06:52
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TildeATH posted:I hate carpeted floors in cars and I don't care what it will cost, I want to replace the carpeted floor in my brand new car with something that is not carpet (and it's a model that had no such options because apparently the only other people that feel the way I do drive Jeeps and that weird Honda SUV that I once snowboarded through in some old PS snowboard game). It doesn't matter if it's rigid plastic or brushed aluminum or sapphire or whatever. Who do I get to do this and what is it called and what's the best way to do this and not spend so much money that I feel stupid? http://www.weathertech.com/ They generally have an option for something that will match your interior, protect all the way up the sides of the footwell and will be a decent quality product. Fair warning, custom fit stuff is never cheap, weathertech is no exception. However you do get what you pay for. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 07:24
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Familiar Foreigner posted:Update, I finally fixed what I thought was hard shifting on my 00 Camry 2.2l, turns out the motor mounts were so shot that the entire engine was lifting when it changed gears, go figure. TPS maybe? I'm not sure what the test procedure is for these, but it's probably resistive.
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Jan 3, 2016 07:43
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TildeATH posted:I hate carpeted floors in cars and I don't care what it will cost, I want to replace the carpeted floor in my brand new car with something that is not carpet (and it's a model that had no such options because apparently the only other people that feel the way I do drive Jeeps and that weird Honda SUV that I once snowboarded through in some old PS snowboard game). It doesn't matter if it's rigid plastic or brushed aluminum or sapphire or whatever. Who do I get to do this and what is it called and what's the best way to do this and not spend so much money that I feel stupid? Budget a long weekend removing the carpet and prepping for bedlining.
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Jan 3, 2016 07:54
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