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spwrozek posted:Everything outside is too cold besides shelf on warm days. I had friends go up to three sisters for some reason on new years and all I heard back was it was unbearably cold. This is, in fact, false. Any time the boulders sit at 40F, you have maximum friction.  Satellites is fine as long as it isn't making the boulders gross and wet. Dry, cold climbing is the best climbing.
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Jan 7, 2016 16:36
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turevidar posted:Hey CO goons, I might be interviewing for a job in Denver. What do people go for bouldering? I'm assuming everything is snowed in - would I be able to hike around and check things out at least? There's a handful of us that climb a few times a week at Denver Bouldering Club. Sprowzek climbs at Movement because he likes ropes and/or doesn't like the rest of us.
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Jan 7, 2016 16:47
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I just got diagnosed with a mild meniscal tear and I might be out for 6 weeks. Fuuuuuuuuuckkkkkkkkk.
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Jan 7, 2016 17:25
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gamera009 posted:This is, in fact, false. Any time the boulders sit at 40F, you have maximum friction. Well it was 20F and in the shade. Just saying. We might eek or 40 in Denver next week but it also is going to snow the next two days. Not saying you can't go climb just that it is going to be pretty not warm or fun.
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Jan 7, 2016 17:35
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XIII posted:There's a handful of us that climb a few times a week at Denver Bouldering Club. Sprowzek climbs at Movement because he likes ropes and/or doesn't like the rest of us. I like you guys, just ropes are so much better than bouldering. I also took 6 weeks off and I am just getting back into it. Still leading 11a at least.
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Jan 7, 2016 17:36
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spwrozek posted:I like you guys, just ropes are so much better than bouldering. I also took 6 weeks off and I am just getting back into it. Still leading 11a at least. It's okay. We don't really like you that much. Also, I spent a solid 10min repeatedly falling off a kid's problem last night while Bud Manstrong and deong laughed at me.
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Jan 7, 2016 18:23
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turevidar posted:Hey CO goons, I might be interviewing for a job in Denver. What do people go for bouldering? I'm assuming everything is snowed in - would I be able to hike around and check things out at least? When are you interviewing? There's a storm coming in today that'll leave some fresh snow most everywhere. I mentioned a page ago or so that Morrison's north side "cave" is climbable year round even when it's snowing, but the problems are polished as hell and everything is massively chalked. I've sent everything in there I think I'll ever send, but it can still be a good experience to climb and drink coffee (and/or whiskey) in a sheltered cave while it's snowing. I don't love climbing below 40 unless the crag is sun-facing; I tend to hurt myself because I can't feel my fingers anymore. Otherwise you could just drink beer and climb indoors. Three Sisters has enough stuff that's sheltered and overhung that you might be able to climb if you're really interested and it's not insanely cold. The trick will be hiking there; it can get pretty snowy. It's usually good a couple of days after a storm, after the snowshoes and fatbikes have packed it down a bit, and it's a nice hike in any case.
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Jan 7, 2016 18:24
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XIII posted:It's okay. We don't really like you that much. 10 min? 
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Jan 7, 2016 18:44
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Bud Manstrong posted:When are you interviewing? There's a storm coming in today that'll leave some fresh snow most everywhere. I mentioned a page ago or so that Morrison's north side "cave" is climbable year round even when it's snowing, but the problems are polished as hell and everything is massively chalked. I've sent everything in there I think I'll ever send, . We actually had about 30 people out there in September and we cleaned the entire cave. Removing 30+ years of chalk and boot rubber. The friction afterwards was pretty insane. You might be able to get on all kinds of stuff now.
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Jan 7, 2016 19:03
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gamera009 posted:Satellites will def be open if there hasn't been a heavy rain. I have five crash pads and am nearly always up for working in the boulders there or my own projects. I actually scored a super cheap flight up in early February to ski, so climbing is out. I'll definitely hit you up come April / May to get some bouldering in.
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Jan 8, 2016 01:42
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Awkward Davies posted:I just got diagnosed with a mild meniscal tear and I might be out for 6 weeks. Fuuuuuuuuuckkkkkkkkk. I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck  Also there are some cool people who climb DBC Tuesdays.
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Jan 8, 2016 03:11
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Happiness Commando posted:I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck If one of those people has a beard and brings a corgi sometimes, one of those people is me.
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Jan 8, 2016 03:25
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I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother?
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Jan 8, 2016 04:27
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Bud Manstrong posted:Sorry, man. I've tried to break a lead fall with my shin bone. It went about as well as you'd expect. I'll keep my eyes out for corgis, I haven't noticed you before. I climb with the meetup weirdos.
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Jan 8, 2016 04:47
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FiestaDePantalones posted:I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother? It's not outside the realm of possibility. You could also be me, and now my head hurts. Happiness Commando posted:I'll keep my eyes out for corgis, I haven't noticed you before. I climb with the meetup weirdos. I don't know them necessarily, but I'd probably recognize you guys. Feel free to come say hi or spray beta or something. Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jan 8, 2016 |
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Jan 8, 2016 04:48
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I'm the white guy with a beard and sleeved arms. So I am everyone at DBC.
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Jan 8, 2016 06:29
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FiestaDePantalones posted:I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother? Twinsies!!!!
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Jan 8, 2016 07:34
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Happiness Commando posted:I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck gently caress that sucks. Hope you heal up quickly.
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Jan 8, 2016 14:20
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XIII posted:I'm the white guy with a beard and sleeved arms. So I am everyone at DBC. I am the fat Asian that flails a lot. So you are not me. Ninja edit: also subpar at climbing.
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Jan 8, 2016 23:11
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gamera009 posted:I am the fat Asian that flails a lot. So you are not me. Lol, you think you are fat. Ninja edit to your Ninja edit... Good at climbing
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Jan 8, 2016 23:32
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The wife and I had a good time watching you guys boulder in Boulder last time around. We'd love to tag along and watch you guys climb when the weather gets nicer. We're still too out of shape to try anything!
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Jan 9, 2016 21:17
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Internet Explorer posted:The wife and I had a good time watching you guys boulder in Boulder last time around. We'd love to tag along and watch you guys climb when the weather gets nicer. We're still too out of shape to try anything! You're never too out of shape to climb. Even I manage it. Also, one of the strongest climbers I know looks like a total soft lardass, but he's ridiculously strong. His grip strength is crazy, and it just came from years of climbing. He's never lost weight according to him - and he looks like it. Just got super strong haha. It's pretty hilarious to see him at the gym, and people look at him super skeptically since he looks like a short, tubby blimp; and then he crushes poo poo that a bunch of shirtless bouldering bros are struggling on.
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Jan 10, 2016 17:35
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A few weeks ago I saw a bouldering competition video on youtube and got it in my head that I wanted to try it. Went for the first time last night and it was dope. I had a friend with me who knew what she was doing, which made it a little nicer. Did (sent?) a few VB's and V0's, and then a V1 but definitely started to feel at that level like I was just brute forcing my way up it with way too much arms, so I've gotta focus on my feet placement more I guess? I'm slowly working my way through this thread. Everyone at the gym was super nice, so I got a lot of good pointers and had a lot of fun  Also, some of the routes were marked "no stem", what does that mean? I have to put both feet on a single hold?
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Jan 12, 2016 18:47
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Stemming is a technique you use in a corner: you put one foot on each wall. If you do it properly you can just stand there and rest your arms. It's an important skill for managing fatigue in long routes, but for a boulder problem it can remove a lot of the challenge. That note was the setter's way of saying "I know this trick is possible and makes things easier - don't cheat." If that problem were found outside the restriction would be pretty contrived and silly, but indoors you have to work with the walls you have. It sounds like the setter really wanted to use a particular wall section because of its shape, steepness, etc but wanted to pretend that the adjacent wall didn't exist.
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Jan 12, 2016 19:30
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I like it when a problem/route has multiple grades set, one with and one without use of a bridge, stem, volume etc, especially if the higher grade is something you have to work towards. It is a bit awkward on short indoor boulder problems when you feel as though maybe the setter was just kind of height challenged and you figure out a way to do it in like 3 moves. Even worse when the intended route forces you into a really cramped spot somewhere 
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Jan 12, 2016 20:40
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^says you. I love when a regular move for my friends is a dynamo for me.
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Jan 12, 2016 20:46
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Hi thread. I'm not from Denver or anything but my wife and I started climbing at a gym a couple months ago and I have been enjoying it a lot. I'm still pretty weak and have bad footwork, but I'm tall so I've been able to progress from barely getting 5.5's on my first visit to now being able to on-sight 5.7's pretty regularly. I'm still really challenged by V1's bouldering. One beginner question regarding bouldering: I'm really bad at actually getting on the wall when your starting position is with two handholds that are like chest-high. In the diagram below, the two handholds are both marked Start.  I assume you're supposed to kind of lean back to keep your arms straight and then get your foot up, but I think I'm missing something. When I try to do that, I'm too far back to reach a higher hold. I usually just have to cheat and reach up to a higher hold to actually get onto the wall. What should I be doing in this situation?
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Jan 12, 2016 22:52
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Boulder problems generally sit start or squat start. Get your butt as close to the ground as you can with your hands on the start holds. This will help you straighten your arms without leaning out away from the wall. In general, try to keep your hips and shoulders close in to the wall.
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Jan 12, 2016 23:01
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If the hold to the left is on as a foot then your hips, and probably core, should be facing left and then to move to the next hold, move your core pushing with your right foot. Starting should look something like this. If the hold to the left isn't on or available then you can do the same thing leaving your left foot flagged out. Starting in a squat facing the wall is generally not a great position as it force your core away from the wall, but if the handholds are good you can push with your feet while keeping your arms straight and move up in an arc. As turevidar said, you generally want to keep your hips and core close to the wall and instead of pulling try to push with your feet. Keeping your hips close to wall involves twisting at the torso to face the hips away from the wall and allow you to bend your knees otherwise bending your knees will force your hips away from the wall.
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Jan 13, 2016 00:03
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Thanks! I'll try this out when I go tomorrow and report back.
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Jan 13, 2016 00:26
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What's the break-in like for climbing shoes, typically? Between my dividends and end of year clearance, I got a good deal on some Evolv Shaman's at REI and they're quite a bit different from the gym rentals (I am not surprised by this.) It's not a struggle to fit my foot in and I feel like if they break in or stretch at all they'll be perfect, but if that's not gonna happen I may trade them in for a half size larger.
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Jan 21, 2016 02:28
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Those are synthetic, so they won't stretch very much. It has been my experience that shoes take three to four weeks to break in fully - I climb around three days a week.
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Jan 21, 2016 02:43
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shabbat goy posted:What's the break-in like for climbing shoes, typically? Between my dividends and end of year clearance, I got a good deal on some Evolv Shaman's at REI and they're quite a bit different from the gym rentals (I am not surprised by this.) It's not a struggle to fit my foot in and I feel like if they break in or stretch at all they'll be perfect, but if that's not gonna happen I may trade them in for a half size larger. They sound ok to me - even synthetic shoes will mold to your feet a little bit, and it sounds like they only need to break in or stretch very slightly to become less uncomfortable. As long as they're not actually painful, perhaps just slightly uncomfortable, you should be good after 1 month or so of climbing. But if they're agonising, they're likely too small.
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Jan 21, 2016 08:33
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Anyone have any climbing recommendations near Phoenix? A buddy and I are flying in the first weekend of February for 3 days of climbing to escape the Canadian cold. As of now, we're thinking of Queen Creek Canyon and staying in a nearby town. He'd be mostly looking for good routes in the 12+/13- range and I'm mostly interested in 11+/12-.
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Jan 21, 2016 15:18
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First time back at the climbing gym in 2 weeks and they've set up a bunch of new routes (no grades up yet) for an upcoming comp so I decided to give one on the 16M wall a go on top rope. Turns out it was a 6c, so technically the hardest thing I've completed at the gym outside of the bouldering room. Next week I'm learning to lead. 
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Jan 22, 2016 11:27
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Nifty posted:
Well a few months later and got back to this project I've been training for and... the hold broke. This little pocket had a fully formed base, now its useless and you have to try some ridiculous gaston or something. What a heartbreaker 
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Jan 25, 2016 07:44
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What type of rock is it?
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Jan 25, 2016 16:21
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What if you tried to jam? Also did the good break while you were climbing or when you got there you got the slap in the face?
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Jan 25, 2016 18:20
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Its sandstone, so easily breakable. It hasn't been raining so I don't think it was that, I think the hold just had its time. A jam is theoretically physically possible but not really doable/positive. And unfortunately the discovery of the broken hold was just after the ~30 minute approach, I came upon it and had to scream in sadness. Didnt even get to work it again.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:16
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think i popped my a4 pulley in my left pinky finger. it's my first pulley injury in almost 10 years of climbing, really not looking forward to having to rehab it =/ the good-ish news is that i popped it in the middle of sending a long-standing project =D
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Jan 27, 2016 01:43
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