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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is it just the roof skin or did it damage anything underneath? I don't know what roof skin is(paint?or the metal?), but I don't feel any indentation from inside the car,at least not over the ceiling fabric if that's what you mean.
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Jan 8, 2016 03:43
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Yeah on a non removable panel like that it's going to be a pain in the rear end and therefore expensive! Does anyone have a go to for alloy cleaners? I have a supplier of good alloys but they are all minging. I am thinking something industrial to spray on and leave for a while and jet wash off to perfect clean shine...
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Jan 11, 2016 13:57
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thegasman2000 posted:Yeah on a non removable panel like that it's going to be a pain in the rear end and therefore expensive! Sonax is supposedly good, but I have no personal experience with it. I was working on cars yesterday and changing oil, then without thinking grabbed the garage door opener in another car with my nasty oil soaked glove.  What can I do to clean the cloth headliner fabric and sun visor of grease and oil?
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Jan 11, 2016 15:40
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Back pads: do you guys use your 6 inch when doing a/b pillars? Or do you also have a smaller plate and pads in your arsenal? If so what size?
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Jan 11, 2016 15:54
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always be closing posted:Back pads: do you guys use your 6 inch when doing a/b pillars? Or do you also have a smaller plate and pads in your arsenal? If so what size? i do and just use a decent amount of taping on either side
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Jan 11, 2016 17:25
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always be closing posted:Back pads: do you guys use your 6 inch when doing a/b pillars? Or do you also have a smaller plate and pads in your arsenal? If so what size? 3.5" plate with 4" pads on a DA.
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Jan 13, 2016 07:58
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Larrymer posted:Sonax is supposedly good, but I have no personal experience with it. Sonax is fantastic. It smells awful and is pretty expensive, but I've found that it's more effective than other wheel cleaners and so what you get goes farther.
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Jan 13, 2016 08:17
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Sonax is really good. It also costs like $20 and I couldn't find it locally so I had to order from Amazon. Meguiar's Hot Rims wheel cleaner is available at pretty much any store near you that sells car stuff (auto-zone, o'reilly's, wal-mart, etc) and it's $5 or so, and works about 95% as well as Sonax. That's what I've been using lately.
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Jan 13, 2016 16:26
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U.K. Goon bilberry seems ok? I can get that online.
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Jan 13, 2016 21:35
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thegasman2000 posted:U.K. Goon Are you after one (prefer?) of those "bleeding" iron remover wheel cleaners specifically? Sonax is based in Germany, Wolf's Chemicals is out of Hungary, Auto Finesse and Dodo Juice are UK based, so you should be able to get any of their cleaners pretty easily. I don't know if Dodo makes theirs available in bulk sizes, but the others all do. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheels-and-tyres/wheel-rim-cleaners/cat_130.html http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/car-care-products-shop-by-category.html Though from what I recall, Bilberry gets good reviews and it's not that expensive.
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Jan 14, 2016 00:08
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Larrymer posted:I was working on cars yesterday and changing oil, then without thinking grabbed the garage door opener in another car with my nasty oil soaked glove. Thanks for nothing, thread.  I used undiluted Simple Green and warm water which seemed to do the trick without loosening or damaging the fabric. Well, unless it falls off tomorrow or something.
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Jan 16, 2016 23:43
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Larrymer posted:Thanks for nothing, thread. Heh, I missed your first post on it. Great that you fixed it, next stop for me after strong Simple Green would have been Spot Shot.
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Jan 17, 2016 00:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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What do you guys use for rock chips? My wife has well over 100 on her Civic. I have terrible technique with Dr. Colorchip and always cock it up.
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Jan 23, 2016 01:24
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blk posted:What do you guys use for rock chips? My wife has well over 100 on her Civic. I have terrible technique with Dr. Colorchip and always cock it up. Dr. Colorchip is by far the easiest. Langka can work really well, but you need to have patience to a) build the spot up so that it's above the paint after drying and b) wait a month or more for the paint to fully and completely cure out so it doesn't just wipe right off. Langka takes more technique, but can be better. Good ol' fashioned touch-up paint, built up so that it's above the paint after drying and a wet sand works, but requires most technique. I don't know of any other methods.
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Jan 23, 2016 01:55
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Goober Peas posted:So I'm coming up on 5 months with the first application Paint Protect. Still beading as well as it did on the first day. I'll check in again in a few months and/or when I put a second application on. Coming up on 10 months since I applied Meguiar's Paint Protect. Still beading well. The downside is that the car seems to be getting dirty progressively faster and/or needing washing more often. Will definitely be stripping it down after 12 months. I'm on the fence as to whether I'll reapply, it really depends on how hard it is to strip. It certainly applied easier than a regular paste or liquid wax. It's met expectations, and would recommend to folks like my parents who wash their car irregularly and are lucky to apply wax once a year. For a gearhead, 12 months is a long time to go without removing surface contaminates regardless of the product longevity. I've also noticed that it's harder to find locally -- Walmart had it last time I was in there, but none of the Autozones here stock it anymore.
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Jan 23, 2016 22:34
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Goober Peas posted:Coming up on 10 months since I applied Meguiar's Paint Protect. Still beading well. The downside is that the car seems to be getting dirty progressively faster and/or needing washing more often. Will definitely be stripping it down after 12 months. I'm on the fence as to whether I'll reapply, it really depends on how hard it is to strip. It certainly applied easier than a regular paste or liquid wax. It's met expectations, and would recommend to folks like my parents who wash their car irregularly and are lucky to apply wax once a year. For a gearhead, 12 months is a long time to go without removing surface contaminates regardless of the product longevity. Is this a sealant?
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Jan 24, 2016 08:36
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So I was peeling a warning sticker off my new bike which has flat white paint, and it left an outline. So I used some cutting compound to polish it out, which worked....too well. Now I have a shiny spot on the top of the gas tank. Does anyone know a way I can flatten out the paint in a way that will look consistent with the rest?
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Feb 2, 2016 20:19
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blk posted:Is this a sealant? It's some sort of synthetic wax stuff http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g36516-paint-protect/
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Feb 3, 2016 01:10
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revmoo posted:So I was peeling a warning sticker off my new bike which has flat white paint, and it left an outline. So I used some cutting compound to polish it out, which worked....too well. Now I have a shiny spot on the top of the gas tank. Does anyone know a way I can flatten out the paint in a way that will look consistent with the rest? I have a feeling you won't be able to get it to match again unless you polish the rest of it.
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Feb 3, 2016 21:13
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Larrymer posted:I have a feeling you won't be able to get it to match again unless you polish the rest of it. That's why I didn't reply... I came up with the same. The only other option I thought was possible is a matte clear spray, but you'd have to practice on something else to get the feel for it before committing.
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Feb 3, 2016 22:54
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Could you lightly hit it with rubbing compound? That tends to scuff surfaces rather than polish it shiny.
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Feb 4, 2016 20:01
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Alarbus posted:Could you lightly hit it with rubbing compound? That tends to scuff surfaces rather than polish it shiny. That's the best idea I've come across so far. I'll give it a shot. I almost wonder if a magic eraser might do the job as well. Fortunately it's not all that noticeable, but drat I felt like an idiot loving up the paint on a bike with 100 miles on it.
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Feb 5, 2016 18:09
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How are OEM flat/matte/satin/whatever paint jobs done anyway, just the finish of the paint/clear itself or do they do any work on it afterward to get the look?
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Feb 5, 2016 20:22
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japtor posted:How are OEM flat/matte/satin/whatever paint jobs done anyway, just the finish of the paint/clear itself or do they do any work on it afterward to get the look? Sprayed on and the effect is a product of both the application technique and the material. Both of those combine to give a uniform, flat/matte/satin/whatever appearance. My thought/fear with using magic eraser or rubbing compound is that both of those require side-to-side or circular action to abrade the surface... I don't think that will match the random finish that the factory had.
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Feb 5, 2016 20:31
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What's the best way to deal with a bit of mold growing inside my car? It's on the steering wheel and on the race seat. I've had a damprid container in the car for the last month. I bought a cheap ozone generator and ran it for about 20 minutes the other night, which should have killed the mold. Diluted bleach and a brush?
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Feb 5, 2016 20:31
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BraveUlysses posted:What's the best way to deal with a bit of mold growing inside my car? It's on the steering wheel and on the race seat. Try Simple Green and a brush first.
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Feb 5, 2016 21:27
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meatpimp posted:Try Simple Green and a brush first. Totally misread that as 'brush fire' 
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Feb 6, 2016 00:44
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When spring arrives here I'm going to clean up my dads car, clay it and all that poo poo. I'm thinking it would be nice to polish it and get it looking as good as possible for him, but I'm unsure about the machines. Some magazines and stuff say that any cheap machine that has all the right movement patterns (double oscillating) and are safe are good enough for mild polishing work. The only real difference is that the machines take longer to do the job based on how powerful they are. Is this somewhat correct? It's a black car, it drives me nuts to think about it getting scratched (and it's not even mine).... and I want a black car for myself 
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Feb 19, 2016 20:19
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Heyo detailing nerds, the weather is starting to get nice, time to start thinking about spring detailing! One post winter result, the Duragloss 501/Collinite 845 on my wife's car, is old, beat up, and parks outside, weathered pretty well. I'll definitely be using that combo on her car and older cars again. Meatpimp's Dr. Colorchip suggestion coupled with this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kspr5GjOla4 (specifically the before/after pictures at the end) have me curious enough that I think I'll give this a try too.
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Apr 9, 2016 19:22
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Duragloss 501 + Collinite 845 should come with every car registration.
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Apr 9, 2016 21:10
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My truck has a matte paint job and it sits outside, and has accumulated some tree gunk on the side of it. Obviously it is not able to be polished so am I hosed?
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Apr 13, 2016 03:15
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My truck has a matte paint job and it sits outside, and has accumulated some tree gunk on the side of it. Obviously it is not able to be polished so am I hosed? You can clay it, but beyond that yes.
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Apr 13, 2016 03:29
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Recommendations for cleaning chrome plastic such as on a Ford? The escape has been picking up stains on the grille and wheels that are impossible to get off.
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Apr 13, 2016 03:52
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My truck has a matte paint job and it sits outside, and has accumulated some tree gunk on the side of it. Obviously it is not able to be polished so am I hosed? Try a lot of warm, soapy water, keeping it warm and wet for a while. Sometimes organic stuff will be removed with soap and water where more aggressive mechanical stuff won't touch it. StormDrain posted:Recommendations for cleaning chrome plastic such as on a Ford? The escape has been picking up stains on the grille and wheels that are impossible to get off. If normal car wash soap isn't doing it, go to Simple Green. Clay, if necessary. Once it's clean, Stoners Invisible Glass works great on plastic chrome.
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Apr 13, 2016 11:26
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This is probably silly, but leather cleaners like Lexol for automotive leathers are safe to use for leather furniture, right?
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Apr 17, 2016 23:18
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QuarkMartial posted:This is probably silly, but leather cleaners like Lexol for automotive leathers are safe to use for leather furniture, right? In general, dead cow skin is dead cow skin is...
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Apr 17, 2016 23:24
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thegasman2000 posted:Does anyone have a go to for alloy cleaners? I have a supplier of good alloys but they are all minging. I am thinking something industrial to spray on and leave for a while and jet wash off to perfect clean shine... Though it turns out I've run out, so today I used a 50/50 mix of water and washing up liquid with a stiff brush, and it worked surprisingly well.
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Apr 17, 2016 23:40
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What's good for cleaning and conditioning leather car seats? Especially in an older car where the seats are kinda dirty.
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Apr 18, 2016 16:14
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:What's good for cleaning and conditioning leather car seats? Especially in an older car where the seats are kinda dirty. Letherique is great in my experience, but $$$. I'm willing to bet almost any 2 part leather cleaner/conditioner is going to be good enough, I've used the meguiars 2 part leather products and it worked fairly well. E: This stuff: 
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Apr 18, 2016 16:21
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Bajaha posted:Letherique is great in my experience, but $$$. I'm willing to bet almost any 2 part leather cleaner/conditioner is going to be good enough, I've used the meguiars 2 part leather products and it worked fairly well. Awesome, thanks. I'll check that out.
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Apr 18, 2016 17:47
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