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Hello car audio people. I have a backup camera surround in my car that I had purchased from Ebay/Amazon whatever in 2009. I had someone else install it. It died a year or so ago (just black screen). I'm wondering if there's a recommended backup camera in license plate surround option. Note that I did buy one a few months ago and I did a great job of breaking it when I thought I was being clever. It was one with IR sesnors on it so it has a built in 'blob' on the cable near the camera which converts from 12v to 5v. My requirement is that the size of hole required to run the cable has to be SMALL. Almost everyone I'm finding now has an RCA jack for video and a round barrel that are hard wired to the camera. I do not want this, I want the cable to have some sort of connector that it small. For reference, this is the one I have now, note how the 3rd picture shows a nice clip to run through a small hole: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18449_BOYO-Vision-VTL300C-Black.html This is an example of one that requires too large of a hole to be cut: http://www.amazon.com/WickedHD-WRC-221-Quality-Viewing-Waterproof/dp/B00YNRK3XA/ http://www.amazon.com/EC170-09-Waterproof-Sensitive-Aluminum-Universal/dp/B00GMC8QXI/ http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLCM16BP-License-Waterproof-Distance/dp/B00WR6ZRG2/ (3 links but they all appear to be the same thing). Right now I'm leaning towarsd just re-buying what I originally had, even though the video quality isn't that great and it's an outdated model. Oh to be clear, I don't need a screen or anything, I'm using video input of an AVIC-D3 and it's already wired to go to that input when shifted to reverse, etc.
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Dec 5, 2015 23:11
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Buy a different camera and lop the connector off? It's only two conductors, not really difficult to reconnect it after you pass the wire through.
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Dec 6, 2015 01:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:Buy a different camera and lop the connector off? It's only two conductors, not really difficult to reconnect it after you pass the wire through. Well it's more than two, there's at minimum +12v, Gnd, Composite. The ones with IR also have more wires for the other voltage. Kinda tough to cut a 12" wire to 6" or whatever, then strip enough back to re-solder 5 wires. And I just envision poo poo falling apart and shorting out doing it that way. dunno.
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Dec 6, 2015 04:57
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Cage posted:I know you said no pioneer, but pioneer. Discontinued. That's actually the only Pioneer I would consider for him. It's still in stock at some WalMarts, but hilariously overpriced. The Clarion CX505 is at the top of the list right now.
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Dec 6, 2015 11:29
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'99 F150 - Good while back I replaced the factory radio with a decent Pioneer head unit and replaced the front door speakers with JL TR570. I love these speakers but they have no bass. A farting titmouse has more thump. So where do I go. It's an old truck and I love it but I don't want to spend any serious cash on sound for it. The installer who put in my other stuff told me not to bother upgrading the rear speakers, and instead adjust the fade 60/40 or 70/30 to the front. But now I want more bass. Is it feasible to put small subs in the doors or should I build a sub box for under the back seat? One speaker or two? 8, 10, 12 inch? Should I upgrade those door speakers (the stock speakers sound like rear end). I mostly listen to rock, pop, and blues so no thumping or dance beats necessary. I do not have an amp, the Pioneer is plenty loud but I understand I'll need an amp for subs. I'll do all the wiring and installation myself. Also please pretend I'm a moron that can never find the power button on the Pioneer, so baby talk me through it. Thanks.
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Dec 12, 2015 08:26
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wormil posted:'99 F150 - Good while back I replaced the factory radio with a decent Pioneer head unit and replaced the front door speakers with JL TR570. I love these speakers but they have no bass. A farting titmouse has more thump. So where do I go. It's an old truck and I love it but I don't want to spend any serious cash on sound for it. The installer who put in my other stuff told me not to bother upgrading the rear speakers, and instead adjust the fade 60/40 or 70/30 to the front. But now I want more bass. Is it feasible to put small subs in the doors or should I build a sub box for under the back seat? One speaker or two? 8, 10, 12 inch? Should I upgrade those door speakers (the stock speakers sound like rear end). I mostly listen to rock, pop, and blues so no thumping or dance beats necessary. I do not have an amp, the Pioneer is plenty loud but I understand I'll need an amp for subs. I'll do all the wiring and installation myself. Also please pretend I'm a moron that can never find the power button on the Pioneer, so baby talk me through it. Thanks. Getting good bass from door mounts is tricky. You need empty space behind the speaker, which is usually compromised by weather sealing between the door card and window frame. All the flimsy steel and plastic has a tendency to rattle as well. Its possible to get ok sound but its probably cheaper and easier to get a sub if that is an option. I would probably look for a vehicle specific box like this. http://www.audioenhancers.com/vehiclespecific/fx50.php . You can also make one yourself. For your style of music and simplicity i would look for a sealed box (not ported aka has a big hole in it). A single 8' or 10' should be plenty of oomph if you are not completely deaf. Pioneer is usually a safe choice for amp and sub. Make sure that whatever sub you get isn't to tall for the enclosure. Subs and premade enclosures have mounting depth listed. You should also check out the ideal sealed box size for the sub. There is quite a bit of leeway, but you shouldn't go too much more that 50% off. This RF sub should fit the linked box for example. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2D410/Rockford-Fosgate-R2D4-10.html?tp=68872 Humbug fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Dec 12, 2015 |
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Dec 12, 2015 22:35
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You can get an Infinity Basslink for something like $100 if you shop around, should be plenty for your needs.
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Dec 13, 2015 06:37
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Yeah, I figured door subs would be a no-go. I can easily build a box and put things together, once I know what to put together, heh. Or would I be better off with an amped sub, like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R2S-1X10-10-Inch-Enclosure/dp/B0068XYNH4/ref=sr_1_6 MikeyTsi posted:You can get an Infinity Basslink for something like $100 if you shop around, should be plenty for your needs. I will definitely look at that.
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Dec 13, 2015 06:41
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I want to get a double-DIN stereo for my wife's 4th-gen 4Runner. Looking for: - SD+USB - Nav - Bluetooth (they all come with this I would imagine) - Prefer no disc player Video playback would be nice but it's not critical. Something running Android like the Dynavin's for BMWs would be cool. What should I get? Not sure what amount of money I should spend, I can go up to $900 or so if I have to but I'd prefer to keep it under $600 if possible. Looking for something with a good stock-ish look and build quality. EDIT: I just spent an hour looking at the devices on Crutchfield. Is it just me or all the devices on the market dogshit? Garish, ugly bezels and even uglier rainbow-colored interfaces that don't even try to match your car's dash. Nav from 2002 and a near complete lack of features other than music and nav. Should I just hold off for a couple more years? The only unit I saw that looked halfway decent is the Parrot as it runs Android. However it's missing a loving VOLUME KNOB. Jesus. Unless I'm missing something I think a nav receiver isn't worth buying at the moment. Shame, these things have been on the market for years, you'd think the quality would have improved by now. revmoo fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Dec 15, 2015 |
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Dec 15, 2015 14:49
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Aside from poring over reviews and hoping someone mentions it, is there any indication of the delay for Bluetooth in a particular head unit? Like a profile or being newer is less delay-ish? Looking around, I see an acronym that seems to indicate higher bitrate streaming, but I'm talking about pure delay. I ask because the first car I had with Bluetooth is my 2011 Mazda3 with the ghetto audio package. I listen to podcasts, Spotify, etc. Universally, there's a 2-second delay between pressing pause, play, next, etc on my iPhone 6 (happened with 3GS and 5 as well) and the expected result. I always just chalked it up to "that's Bluetooth," but I feel like I've rented cars that had much better responsiveness (lower delay) when streaming audio. It makes video unwatchable with the audio and video being 2 seconds out of sync. So it's time to get a Bluetooth head unit for my wife's 2009 RAV4, and if I can I'd like to minimize this annoying as gently caress aspect. Any advice?
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Jan 5, 2016 05:50
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The stock setup in my Honda has that same delay, but the old (2011ish) Sony I have in my WJ doesn't. I don't think the 2013ish Sony in my C10 does either but I haven't driven it enough to be sure 
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Jan 5, 2016 07:26
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The tape deck died in my 2000 CRV. Is there any gold standard for a sub $100 digital receiver? My current solution of taking my Bluetooth shower speaker into the car isn't really cutting it.
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Jan 5, 2016 19:48
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I bought this and the only way I'd be happier is if I could operate the playback buttons without having to grope each one, counting from the left. Poorly considered button placement seems pretty universal, though. I guess some people might count the lack of a cd player as a flaw. e: There does tend to be a little delay between button inputs and responses. I always chalked it up to my phone+apps being bad (it's more noticeable in the podcast app), but all the same maybe uwaeve should avoid this one. cephalopods fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 20:17
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uwaeve posted:So it's time to get a Bluetooth head unit for my wife's 2009 RAV4, and if I can I'd like to minimize this annoying as gently caress aspect. I regularly use Netflix and Plex in my car with the phone tethered via Bluetooth (before people flip out, I spend a lot of time in parking lots between orders). Skipping songs, etc is pretty much instant, and this is with a 2014 Pioneer head unit. Video and audio are also synced.
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Jan 8, 2016 09:44
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So I'll be putting in a new stereo in the Nova in the future and it will an absolute ground-up build. I'll probably come back to this thread (or whatever iteration it's on at that time) when the time comes to actually start putting things together, but I wanted to get your guys' opinion on something now while I'm thinking of it. Now, the original system in the car consisted of (probably) an AM tuner and a single 4x10" speaker in the dash. The original deck is long gone, but the speaker is still there. Obviously, I don't want to use a 40 year old soup can, so I've been looking into options to replace it. What I've seen some guys do is basically build a bracket that will mount to the dash where the old speaker was and rig up a pair of 4" speakers to that bracket. Kicker's got some 2-way 4"ers that seem to be pretty well liked. I was thinking that a pair of those rigged up in a bracket to point them somewhat away from each other would probably be pretty nice. Now I was also thinking that maybe I'd forego the 4x10" replacement and get some 5-1/4" component systems for the kick panels under the dash. Polk makes a set that looks pretty nice. Then I started wondering if I could run both of these and basically split the front channels between them. Left 4" in the dash plus the left components and the same for the other side. I'm sure there's some power issues I'd need to take into consideration there, but what do you guys think?
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Jan 15, 2016 02:30
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Run the dash off of the front outputs, kick panels off of the rear, unless you're also running some speakers on the rear deck or something.
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Jan 15, 2016 04:42
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Yeah, there are/will be 6x9"s in the rear deck. Not sure what's in there now, but they will probably get replaced when I do everything else.
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Jan 15, 2016 14:46
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I've got a 2011 Audi A3 with the "concert" radio option:  I mostly stream music to it from my phone so I'd like to replace it with an Android headunit that does Google Play music, Pandora, etc., and maybe throw Ingress on it too. Is there anything on the market worth buying that can do this kinda stuff? Edit: The Pumpkin KD-C1213 looks to have everything I need but I've never heard of the brand... bizwank fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 20:09
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New install I did in my MKIV Golf last week: Kenwood KDC-BT53U (needed 3 preouts) Pioneer TS-310S4 12" Subwoofer in a ported box (400w RMS) In Phase IPA1601 1600 Watts 2 Channel Amplifier running the sub (bridged) 4x In Phase XTC6CX 6.5" Component door speakers front & rear (60w RMS each) In Phase IPA1041 1000 Watts 4 Channel Amplifier running the mid woofers/tweeters Sound deadening in all panels. Not the most ultra powerful setup, but more than enough to shake a small car like this, and after some EQing (great 13 band EQ on the Kenwood), the sound quality is awesome! Really liking In Phase kit.
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Jan 24, 2016 19:11
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I am looking for some input on some mids and tweeters for my 1986 Jetta. I have two 12" subs right now, but I'm looking to replace the rest of the speakers, since they are on their way out. I have this amp pushing my 6x9's right now https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HBJ1JW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FXfQwbF5GT80S I want to replace my current 6x9's with these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C76Z5C8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZPfQwbQFEQDZA I want to replace the 4", that are also in the back deck with the 6x9's with these, since they well fit in the current mounting holes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072LABWM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_xPfQwbB7EKTAQ I have 3.5" in the dash corners and I can't fit anything larger in there. My plan was to run the 5.25" and the 3.5" off of this amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_pOfQwb98S1A5G and run the tweeters off of the deck. These are the highest rms 3.5" I could find under $200 and I'm wondering if I can do better https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JSS9KTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_POfQwbDKWQ7N7 I have no idea what tweeters I want to get, so I could use some input there. My current head unit is a Kenwood KDC-X695, but I'm looking to upgrade to something that has an aux port in the rear, detachable face, fully supports Android phones over Bluetooth, crossover and subwoofer controls, three sets of preamp outputs, and prefer it under $300 if possible. I was looking at this model for the head unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYH7MG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_lrgQwbFD6NMCM Again, I'm wondering if I can do better for the price and still get the features I want. On a side note, I saw sound deadening questions brought up in the thread without answers. Should I take that as just use dymomat? Eventually I'll do the trunk, doors, floor, firewall, and maybe the roof under the headliner. Thank for any suggestion, and feel free to shoot down anything I have picked out.
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Jan 27, 2016 07:35
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You seem to know what you are talking about. Your setup seems solid to me. That HU seems to have few and tiny buttons, even for an aftermarket unit though. I guess you are suppposed to use the remote. Im not sure there is a US-wide available cheaper alternative to dynamat. If you can find a cheaper alternative locally, I would try that. Its only bitumen and adhesive at the end of the day.
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Jan 27, 2016 10:29
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Humbug posted:You seem to know what you are talking about. Your setup seems solid to me. That HU seems to have few and tiny buttons, even for an aftermarket unit though. I guess you are suppposed to use the remote. Thanks for the feedback
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Jan 27, 2016 16:07
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Looking at replacing the system in my XC70 and want to bounce it off some more knowledgeable people before I go ahead. Here's what I'm looking at: JVC KD-X330BTS (Mostly going with this for 5v pre-outs) Crux SWRVL-50 harness + SWC NVX MVPA4 4 channel amp, two channels for front speakers, bridge second two channels for sub JBL P660c components in the factory locations JBL 8" microsub (already have this from a previous vehicle) Leave factory rear speakers in place and but not used Planning on putting the amp in the spare tire area. Battery is in the back so that part should be nice and easy. Run signal wires by center console on passenger side, speaker wires along bottom door trim on same side up to radio harness, and then use stock wiring from there to the doors. When I ran wires through door boots on my Subaru it was a huge pain and I'd really rather not do it again, but I could give it a shot if that's going to make a big difference.
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Jan 27, 2016 20:46
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revmoo posted:
I'm having the same problem
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Jan 30, 2016 19:08
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http://imgur.com/hjJV434 This is going into a 2015 WRX. The current hypothetical signal chain looks like this: Droid Turbo out -> Cable Matters Micro-USB 2.0 On-The-Go (OTG) Adapter 6-Inch -> HiFiMeDIY Sabre USB DAC Digital to Analog Audio Converter 96khz/24bit ES9023+SA9023 + USB to Optical Converter-> MP S/PDIF Adapter, 3.5mm Mono Plug to RCA Mono Jack-> SPDIF RCA -> DDRC-22D SPDIF -> C-DSP 6x8 SPDIF -> Regular RCA -> HD900/5 -> SPEAKERS/SUBWOOFER I've been told by someone I've been discussing this with, that the HiFiMeDIY, when using the Andriod Phone as the power source, has a weak/underpowered signal when outputting SPIDF. Can anyone think of workarounds/other solutions for outputting SPDIF from an android phone? (I'm even open to other sources besides a phone). I just don't see why I need a headunit preamp when I can just use my phone. Another question that just came up while typing this. If I output the signal from my phone to a DAC will I still be able to control volume from it?
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Jan 31, 2016 05:50
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Hi I don't know poo poo about car audio, are fm transmitters still awful
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Feb 8, 2016 02:10
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Wowporn posted:Hi I don't know poo poo about car audio, are fm transmitters still awful Yes, universally. FM modulators are slightly better, such as http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614. Still not great, and requires enough work that you may be better off just upgrading to a new head unit with Aux in/USB/Bluetooth.
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Feb 8, 2016 04:07
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Cellular Suicide posted:Yes, universally. FM modulators are slightly better, such as http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614. Still not great, and requires enough work that you may be better off just upgrading to a new head unit with Aux in/USB/Bluetooth. Yeah, for that price and amount of work I think i'd spring for this cheap pioneer head unit http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-1...tereo+head+unit Anyone got a super concise set of directions/supplies I'll need? I build computers and stuff so I'm not afraid of doing it myself but I've never worked on anything electrical on a car before.
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Feb 8, 2016 05:11
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Unless you have a particularly bizarre and rare car all you should need is a fitting kit like this. Pictured: harness adapter, fascia, radio removal pins and an aerial adapter. Depending on how weird your car is they're about $15 up.
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Feb 8, 2016 10:25
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Any recommendations for a aftermarket antenna? My PO removed the wiring and welded the hole up. I bought a cheap one off Amazon and it sounded terrible. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QYSXAS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
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Feb 8, 2016 10:44
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88h88 posted:Unless you have a particularly bizarre and rare car all you should need is a fitting kit like this. Pictured: harness adapter, fascia, radio removal pins and an aerial adapter. It's an 09 crown vic so I'd be surprised if it needed anything fancy. Thanks!
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Feb 9, 2016 00:01
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Okay so I've got everything but the antennae adapter wired and ready to go, just wanted to make sure the piece that came with the harness with the aux cables and black/blue and white wires is only for if i had a powered amp(which i dont) before I start sticking stuff into the dashboard.
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Feb 14, 2016 08:23
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If you're talking about RCA cables, then correct, you only need those for an amp. Did you get the same headunit you linked? If you have just blue, then it's for an amp. If you have both blue and blue/white, blue is for a power antenna, and blue/white is for an amp. Cover them somehow so they can't short out on anything - if you're using crimp connectors, I usually just crimp a butt connector over the end of whatever unused wire and don't connect anything to the other side of the connector. Black/blue is something I haven't seen on the stereo side - are you sure that's not solid black? Solid black will be for grounding the stereo, and may or may not be in the factory harness (if it's not, crimp a ring terminal on it and screw it into something metal behind the dash).
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Feb 15, 2016 06:58
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Looking at putting in a new car stereo for the first time ever. Two questions on the wiring harness. The connector that came with the car stereo has the following connector on the blue wire.  The wiring harness I have has just a plain blue wire. How am I supposed to connect it? I'm assuming this connector requires me to do something other than just put a stripped wire in and crimp? Can I just cut it off and use the regular butt connectors I already have? Also, the stereo ground wire has a c-hook shaped end where I'm supposed to attach it to a screw on the vehicle chassis. Do I need to do anything with the ground wire coming out of the vehicle harness? Or should I cut off the c-hook connector and just wire the stereo ground to the vehicle harness ground wire?
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Feb 15, 2016 17:33
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WhyteRyce posted:Can I just cut it off and use the regular butt connectors I already have? quote:Do I need to do anything with the ground wire coming out of the vehicle harness? Or should I cut off the c-hook connector and just wire the stereo ground to the vehicle harness ground wire? Try wiring it into the existing harness first. If you have some buzzing/humming indicating a ground problem, then try a chassis ground. You're using a harness adapter to just plug into the factory harness, right? Please don't cut the factory wiring, that almost always ends badly.
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Feb 15, 2016 21:05
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Yes. Yep using a harness adapter. Thanks, I'll get crimping right now
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Feb 15, 2016 21:15
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My battery is in the trunk like, less than two feet away from my amplifier. Is there any reason I shouldn't just use the battery's ground instead of the chassis?
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Feb 15, 2016 22:20
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I see no issue either way, may as well go with the shortest cable run.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:33
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some texas redneck posted:If you're talking about RCA cables, then correct, you only need those for an amp. Did you get the same headunit you linked? I said that confusingly, there were black and white and also blue and white wires. Anyway they were on there own separate connector so I just left that part out completely. Also apparently late model fords don't need an antenna adapter, but holy poo poo is it annoying getting a pair of the hooks for removing the stock radio. None of the auto parts stores in my city sold them, including the specialty car audio store, so I had to go to Best Buy.
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Feb 15, 2016 23:15
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Noooo.... it took forever to get the stock HU out of my volvo, and, due to being worn out and frustrated, I messed up and plugged the unused 3.5mm jack from the steering wheek control unit into the microphone port of the deck. Guess I'm pulling the dash out again.
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Feb 16, 2016 16:14
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