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IOwnCalculus posted:Read your manual to be sure, but in most cases yes you want an AWD car to be flatbedded. Alright, thanks. I remembered my dad saying something about having to do that when they moved cross-country with their subaru, but I wanted to make sure that was the case.
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Jan 14, 2016 22:45
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I've got a 2015 Nissan Versa with weird electrical problems. The brake lights work fine, but the right tail light won't come on. The bulb is fine, I tested that with my multimeter and it works just fine in the left tail light. I tested the socket with my multimeter too, and the socket doesn't even get any power for the tail light. Also in this same car, the AC likes to come on whenever the defrost does, or at least the little light on the AC button does. What gives? I should mention that this car was a salvage. It got totaled out with only 2400 miles on the odometer when it was hit in the rear end end on the right side, the same side as the problem tail light. Whoever repaired the body work did a hell of a job. Still, "salvage" means no manufacturer warranty. Otherwise, I'd just drop this thing off at the dealership and tell them to deal with it. Anybody got any ideas for these electrical problems? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 23:49
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kid sinister posted:Also in this same car, the AC likes to come on whenever the defrost does, or at least the little light on the AC button does. Tail light issues notwithstanding, your AC should come on with your defrost. The AC dries the air, effectively like wringing the moisture out of a damp towel, and then the heat expands the air's capacity to absorb moisture off of your windshield (like fluffing a towel in the dryer, I guess?).
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Jan 14, 2016 23:53
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When slowing down to a stop (from say, 4th or 5th gear), what RPM should I be releasing the clutch for various cars, and what factors affect this? Should I be using idle RPM plus x% as a guideline?
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Jan 15, 2016 00:44
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totalnewbie posted:You're right - if the spark plug is black, it's not plated and you should use antiseize. The AC Delcos I bought for my SBC last year had black threads. So did the plugs I removed. Maybe they're no longer the typical OE, but there's a ton of poo poo on the roads using them. Edit: They were the only Delcos available.
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Jan 15, 2016 00:50
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For me it was always a feel-based thing. Most modern cars will cut fuel delivery when you are off the throttle for a certain amount of time at higher RPMs, and you can feel it cut back in close to idle. It's around that point where the car might start jerking / fighting you a bit because the computer is trying to idle at a certain speed and you aren't letting it.
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Jan 15, 2016 00:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:For me it was always a feel-based thing. Most modern cars will cut fuel delivery when you are off the throttle for a certain amount of time at higher RPMs, and you can feel it cut back in close to idle. It's around that point where the car might start jerking / fighting you a bit because the computer is trying to idle at a certain speed and you aren't letting it.
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Jan 15, 2016 00:58
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I would say that you should depress the clutch pedal before the fuel cut-off ends and the engine tries to idle again, so you aren't lugging it. If you are panic-braking, though, you should depress the clutch pedal immediately; the engine won't be as smooth as your brakes as it spins down, and if you stall it you will lose steering and brake assist completely.
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Jan 15, 2016 01:14
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EightBit posted:I would say that you should depress the clutch pedal before the fuel cut-off ends and the engine tries to idle again, so you aren't lugging it.
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Jan 15, 2016 01:19
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Christobevii3 posted:If you undo a hose to the sprayers does it flow? This was from a few pages back, but I was able to get these working today. Had to replace the actual nozzles, which were kind of a pain to get to.
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Jan 15, 2016 03:23
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Blinky2099 posted:I can't immediately imagine when the fuel cut-off is. I'm driving a 2016 now so maybe technology is different, or maybe fuel cutoff is after I've already been depressing the clutch pedal (~1k RPM, idles at ~800 RPM). I'll experiment more to try to get a better feel for these. Thanks guys. My owner's manual tells me the minimum RPM to operate with the car in gear and the clutch engaged: quote:2014 Ford Focus Owner's Manual
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Jan 15, 2016 03:41
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kid sinister posted:I've got a 2015 Nissan Versa with weird electrical problems. The brake lights work fine, but the right tail light won't come on. The bulb is fine, I tested that with my multimeter and it works just fine in the left tail light. I tested the socket with my multimeter too, and the socket doesn't even get any power for the tail light. Also in this same car, the AC likes to come on whenever the defrost does, or at least the little light on the AC button does. What gives? Your tailight wiring is probably pinched or shorted to the body due to the accident. it may have been repaired - but not totally. you'll have to pull back the plastic trim and trace the wires back - I bet the problem won't be far. As for the defroster and A/C? That's normal. Almost every modern car does this. Some cars will do it without lighting up the A/C light. It's better to have dry air to defog the windows - they'll defog WAY faster with dry air. That's what A/C does - it dries air. The thermostat keeps the air from getting COLD though. Let it do its thing.
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Jan 15, 2016 04:07
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Godholio posted:The AC Delcos I bought for my SBC last year had black threads. So did the plugs I removed. Maybe they're no longer the typical OE, but there's a ton of poo poo on the roads using them. What was the part number?
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Jan 15, 2016 05:51
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I don't have a part number handy, but it was probably the R45S. Now that I think about it, it's been like 3 loving years. Jesus Christ.
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Jan 15, 2016 06:11
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Godholio posted:I don't have a part number handy, but it was probably the R45S. Now that I think about it, it's been like 3 loving years. Jesus Christ. Rockauto lists the R43S for a '65 Corvette with the 327. Black, sure enough.
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Jan 15, 2016 06:26
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I'm trying to remove a strut and no amount of PB blasting or breaker barring will get these two bolts to move: I assume an impact wrench would just make them spin, but would I hurt anything by trying?
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Jan 15, 2016 07:14
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You're putting a wrench on both sides, right?
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Jan 15, 2016 07:55
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Yeah, put a wrench on one side and an impact gun on the other. Also, the fact that the impact gun delivers its torque in very quick jolts can let it break loose stuff that would otherwise want to spin right away.
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Jan 15, 2016 08:00
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Raluek posted:Rockauto lists the R43S for a '65 Corvette with the 327. Black, sure enough. Cripes. I can't believe anyone's still making OEM plug for a 50 year old car. The usual term is 15 years after EOP. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 14:49
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Just had a 2002 F350 dual axle, a YZ80 and a KX80 stolen out of a hotel parking lot in Indianapolis. Don't really know where else to post this. If anyone is close to Indy please keep an eye out.
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Jan 15, 2016 17:35
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totalnewbie posted:Cripes. I can't believe anyone's still making OEM plug for a 50 year old car. The usual term is 15 years after EOP. The same basic engine is still in production.
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Jan 15, 2016 19:12
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Yerok posted:Just had a 2002 F350 dual axle, a YZ80 and a KX80 stolen out of a hotel parking lot in Indianapolis. Don't really know where else to post this. If anyone is close to Indy please keep an eye out. You filed a police report, right?
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Jan 15, 2016 19:14
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EightBit posted:You're putting a wrench on both sides, right? Yup. Tried impact gun and it just started rounding the bolt. Applied more PB, waited a bit more and went at it again with breaker bar and a length of pipe. RIP breaker bar.  I'm giving up and taking it to a shop.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:06
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What the hell, those don't even look rusty!
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Jan 15, 2016 20:24
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Godholio posted:The same basic engine is still in production. Well, kind of, I guess. I still find it a bit unbelievable that they'd be using non-plated spark plugs, though. /shrug. Buy plated plugs, make your life easier.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:What the hell, those don't even look rusty! Not in the slightest. Lefty loosy, righty tighty? You sure you're applying force in the right direction? E: in your pic, your should be "lifting" the breaker bar with the socket on the nut, and a wrench on the bolt head. This is just wrinkling my brain how something so clean can be so stuck. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 20:31
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Bajaha posted:Not in the slightest. Yeah I'm leaning toward user error too here because it just makes no sense, those should easily come undone with a breaker bar and spanner or a rattlegun on the nut end. The threads don't appear to be reversed and there doesn't appear to be any locking method on the nuts either.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:50
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Bajaha posted:Not in the slightest. That's what I'm doing. I don't get it either.
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Jan 15, 2016 22:39
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totalnewbie posted:Well, kind of, I guess. I still find it a bit unbelievable that they'd be using non-plated spark plugs, though. It does seem strange about the plugs...I'd never even heard of this difference, so I don't even know if there's a plated version available. I'll dig into it next time I'm due, though. GM still sells the SBC as a crate motor, and they're still popular. Plus the other manufacturers like World, etc that sell their own tweaked versions (taller deck, etc). These engines are everywhere. If you include reverse cooling variants, Chevy was still using them in trucks into the 2000s and they're actually still used as OE marine motors.
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Jan 15, 2016 23:37
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My fiance wants "white" headlights in our new '16 Jetta instead of the "ugly" yellow ones. I'm completely out of the loop with bulb tech, but whats the best drop in bulb I can get? Am I wrong to assume all the LED/fake HID bulbs on ebay are garbage or will start fires? Thanks!
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Jan 16, 2016 00:01
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Voltage posted:My fiance wants "white" headlights in our new '16 Jetta instead of the "ugly" yellow ones. I'm completely out of the loop with bulb tech, but whats the best drop in bulb I can get? Am I wrong to assume all the LED/fake HID bulbs on ebay are garbage or will start fires? Just throw in some Sylvania Ultras and call it good.
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Jan 16, 2016 00:31
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Bovril Delight posted:Just throw in some Sylvania Ultras and call it good. I'm not sure how the Ultras are, but Sylvania recently lost a $30M lawsuit over SilverStar performance. Hint: blue tint on the bulb is tint. That makes it dimmer, even though the color shift (toward white) makes you think it's brighter. Philips makes good bulbs. Whatever direction you go, stay away from lovely ebay HIDs. Edit: Also, see if your housing is hazed over. Polishing that up might clean up the light a bit.
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Jan 16, 2016 01:21
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Godholio posted:I'm not sure how the Ultras are, but Sylvania recently lost a $30M lawsuit over SilverStar performance. Hint: blue tint on the bulb is tint. That makes it dimmer, even though the color shift (toward white) makes you think it's brighter. It's about aesthetics anyway so it doesn't matter.
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Jan 16, 2016 01:23
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As long as it's bright as stock it will be fine. Lenses are brand new, car is a 2016 with under 1,000 miles. I'll probably just snatch up some Phillips or Sylvania bulbs and see if it makes a difference.
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Jan 16, 2016 01:44
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Godholio posted:It does seem strange about the plugs...I'd never even heard of this difference, so I don't even know if there's a plated version available. I'll dig into it next time I'm due, though. Yeah, I knew GM was still making the 4.3L V6 based on the Gen 1 small block. Funny story, I was in the Romulus plant and saw them making engines with a distributor and expressed my surprise to the SQE. He just laughed an do old me they'd been making the engine forever. Anyway that engine uses NGK ITR4A15 and that was the oldest engine I know. But yeah, there is definitely a plated version (NGK BR6...S? I looked this morning but forgot by now... ) so you can spare yourself the trouble, there. Also, I did ask a guy who works in the aftermarket department and he thinks it's probably autolite that makes the black ones, still. Like I said, don't buy autolite... :P
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Jan 16, 2016 02:07
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Godholio posted:That makes it dimmer, even though the color shift (toward white) makes you think it's brighter. More on this here if you want the extended version of why blue tinted halogen bulbs are bad.
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Jan 16, 2016 02:23
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CharlieWhiskey posted:You filed a police report, right? Of course I did. The cops assured me that they weren't going to actively look and that they had more important things to worry about. The truck is covered by insurance. The dirtbikes aren't.
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Jan 16, 2016 04:02
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Yerok posted:Of course I did. The cops assured me that they weren't going to actively look and that they had more important things to worry about. The truck is covered by insurance. The dirtbikes aren't. Call your homeowners or renters insurance.
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Jan 16, 2016 04:03
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I searched high and low for upper control arm ball joint dust boots for my 71 challenger (e-body) and had such a terrible time that I wound up just buying entirely new control arms. I thought I'd ask, out of curiosity (since it's too late now), if anybody here knows either how to find those boots or what I might have been doing wrong in trying to find them?
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Jan 16, 2016 04:15
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Number 1 Sexy Dad posted:I searched high and low for upper control arm ball joint dust boots for my 71 challenger (e-body) and had such a terrible time that I wound up just buying entirely new control arms. Do replacement ball joints not come with new ones?
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Jan 16, 2016 04:17
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