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blk posted:I'm trying to remove a strut and no amount of PB blasting or breaker barring will get these two bolts to move: It's not a terrible idea to loctite suspension mounting bolts. But I might have used blue instead of red. If this is the case, heat it with a torch or heat gun till it smokes, then remove while hot.
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Jan 16, 2016 06:29
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Chauncey posted:It's not a terrible idea to loctite suspension mounting bolts. But I might have used blue instead of red. If this is the case, heat it with a torch or heat gun till it smokes, then remove while hot. I thought that red was what required heat. Either way, those bolts don't look like they had lock-tite applied.
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Jan 16, 2016 06:33
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totalnewbie posted:Yeah, I knew GM was still making the 4.3L V6 based on the Gen 1 small block. Funny story, I was in the Romulus plant and saw them making engines with a distributor and expressed my surprise to the SQE. He just laughed an do old me they'd been making the engine forever. You're right, the Autolite 85 is also black. Would you believe they make unplated platinums, too? (AP85) I don't buy the story about how the SBC is still being made is the reason for these plugs sticking around. They went to a different plug (NGK TR55 is what's in mine) in the mid 90s, and I believe the LS stuff still uses that physical form factor. Not sure about the new LT stuff, but it wouldn't surprise me. Surely the old-style stuff is produced because of racers and the kind of car guy who would complain up a storm if anything was changed in the last 50 years. Heaven forbid the plating on the plug change!
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Jan 16, 2016 09:56
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Raluek, you guys ever figure out why the head wouldn't come off of that Civic engine?
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Jan 16, 2016 10:17
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some texas redneck posted:Raluek, you guys ever figure out why the head wouldn't come off of that Civic engine? Friend with car has been out of town (school started up again) so I don't think any progress has been made. I'll post in this thread either way, once wrenches are applied to the car once more.
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Jan 16, 2016 10:23
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Stupid question but I don't know anything about cars: my 2002 Hyundai Sonata v6 needs to get the timing belt replaced. I've looked online for labor cost quotes and they're all radically different. Before I call up shops, what's a "fair price" to expect for a timing belt replacement job? A buddy is offering to do it for $500 which seems high for a guy who isn't a certified mechanic and doing it out of his home garage.
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Jan 16, 2016 14:35
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Fair price is going to be between 700-1200 based on vehicle and area rates. If the water pump is driven my the timing belt (it probably is) then replace that too, becsuse it's basically no extra labor and the part is cheaper than the $700 it will take to fix it later if/when it breaks.
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Jan 16, 2016 14:43
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Forgot to ask that. Besides the timing belt and water pump, are there anything else I should get replaced during the job?
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Jan 16, 2016 14:53
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ChikoDemono posted:Forgot to ask that. Besides the timing belt and water pump, are there anything else I should get replaced during the job? rollers, tensioners
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Jan 16, 2016 14:55
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I posted earlier about my battery being dead. We just jumped it successfully using some thicker gauge cables. But when I got home and turned it off and then attempted to start it, it was dead again. Does this sound like the battery needs to be replaced or could it be something else?
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Jan 16, 2016 15:08
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Enourmo posted:Do replacement ball joints not come with new ones? I'm an idiot. Didn't even think of buying just the joint. Went straight from looking for the boot to replacing the whole arm.
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Jan 16, 2016 15:46
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me your dad posted:I posted earlier about my battery being dead. Probably battery is dead. Autozone should be able to test its cranking amps really easily.
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Jan 16, 2016 15:50
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So I have a lovely old 1 car separate garage. Probably about 60 years old, roof is a little saggy but its not going to fall over on me (probably). The interior beams and plywood have some surface rot, all of our stuff that is stored in there gets a nice coating of flaky wood dust. It is wired for 110v power which is nice, and has a working power garage door. I want to use the garage to work on cars, but I am on a tight budget. Rebuilding it or making any sort of massive renovation is probably not feasible. I was considering a couple of things. -clean the garage out, powerwash/bleach everything -then either staple tyvek to all the interior exposed beams and ceiling tresses, creating "walls" that don't "weep wood dandruff" or buy a paint sprayer and spray a couple of heavy coats of primer all over everything...or screw sheet plywood of some sort to the whole interior? -then build a wall of cheap shelving using 2x4s and cheap wood my tools are limited and I probably wont have much manpower to assist me with it, but I have a tablesaw and basic power drills/etc. I am reasonable handy. The garage door is offset to one side slightly, so the wider side will be the work bench/shelving side, and I will probably not build any shelving on the other side. Any suggestions or input?
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Jan 16, 2016 17:07
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me your dad posted:I posted earlier about my battery being dead. Either the battery is dead, or you have some super grody corroded terminals right at the battery. I'm assuming you connected the jumper cables right to the battery terminals, so everything upstream from there is known to be good. Visually inspect the terminals, and clean them if they look suspicious. Replace the battery cables if they're the type where the terminal is clamped directly onto the wire, instead of being crimped and molded or similar. If you suspect you may have that type, post a picture for confirmation. If that's not the issue, it's gotta be the battery. PaintVagrant posted:-clean the garage out, powerwash/bleach everything This sounds good. I had my car stored in an old barn for awhile, and the walls/interior roof were covered with stapled-on clear plastic sheeting. Looked like it helped keep the elements out, as well as random falling pieces of barn.
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Jan 16, 2016 20:31
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2006 GMC Sonoma, 150kish miles, 4.3 Doesn’t Start A week ago my dad’s truck died while running and now wont start. He was less than 5 minutes down the road, at idle. He was either still at idle or had just begun to pull away from the stop and the truck died. Here’s 3 videos of us (me, my dad, and my automotive friend Mr. T in the red sweat shirt) trying to start it with starting fluid and gas: 1st video, sprayed some starter fluid before starting, almost catches. 2nd try, with gas 3rd try, more fluid Here’s what we know
The real mechanic (who be the one I pay to fix this if we can’t figure it out) said next we should run a compression test. I personally (though I’m the least mechanic of the four people involved) don’t see how a blown head gasket keeps it from starting at all. This engine should have a timing chain and what everyone’s saying/I’ve heard is that if the chain had a problem it likely would have jumped a tooth wich would lead to it running like poo poo, not this total inability to start. Mass Air Flow sensor? I thought about buying a can of cleaner and trying that but Mr. T says it “almost never works”. I pretty much learned everything from him so I’d never actually even heard of MAF until I chanced upon a youtube video of it, such is Mr. T’s disdain for the technique apparently. Apparently if we can’t fix it the comedy-though-entirely-for-real option is throw an LS in it, Mr. T bought one for a Jeep project that ended up with a poo poo body and frame.
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Jan 16, 2016 22:37
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by cutting through the bed and sealing the hole back up with what is now old, curling duct tape.
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Here it goes, I have a 2009 Mazdaspeed 3 and I'm looking to replace all four of my tires that won't break the bank. Any suggestions for tires that will survive the minefields of Arizona roadways (pot holes the size of my car.) I'm not worried about performance or wet weather. Thanks in advance.
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Jan 17, 2016 01:16
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4.3 guy check if you have a loving spark. WTF with pouring gas into the engine and not expecting it to flood out. Have you ever changed the distributor? Seriously check the spark or you have some crazy vats lock out. I almost grantee it is the distributor if you haven't changed it before. All your sensors don't matter from a cold start really on a 4.3L it just dumps fuel, air, and needs a spark. MAF matters more after it ran a minute and goes out of cold start mode. Just watch this jeez. Good way to test if ignition electrical issue or distro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvVgu6E_z4w Christobevii3 fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jan 17, 2016 |
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Jan 17, 2016 01:45
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Jack B Nimble posted:2006 GMC Sonoma, 150kish miles, 4.3 You checked just one plug?
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Jan 17, 2016 01:53
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PaintVagrant posted:So I have a lovely old 1 car separate garage. Probably about 60 years old, roof is a little saggy but its not going to fall over on me (probably). The interior beams and plywood have some surface rot, all of our stuff that is stored in there gets a nice coating of flaky wood dust. It is wired for 110v power which is nice, and has a working power garage door. Cover everything with OSB and then build some cheap 2x4 workbenches and storage. I did that to my old saggy garage and it's been great: 
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Jan 17, 2016 02:39
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8ender posted:Cover everything with OSB and then build some cheap 2x4 workbenches and storage. I did that to my old saggy garage and it's been great: poo poo man, that looks great. I might have to look into it.
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Jan 17, 2016 02:41
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Grodo posted:Here it goes, I have a 2009 Mazdaspeed 3 and I'm looking to replace all four of my tires that won't break the bank. Any suggestions for tires that will survive the minefields of Arizona roadways (pot holes the size of my car.) I'm not worried about performance or wet weather. Thanks in advance. It seems weird to not care about good performing tires on a Speed3. Get the highest rated all seasons in your price range from TireRack if your primary concern is just cheap, decent tires. They won't be cheap because of the tire profile though.
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Jan 17, 2016 02:42
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My 1992 Toyota Camry has door locks that have been getting progressively stickier. The key will go in just fine, but it doesn't want to turn. It's hard to tell what is to blame, but it's not that the mechanism turns slowly, it just doesn't want to catch to allow it to turn. I thought maybe it was the key, but my spare has the same problem and it seems to be affecting both doors. With some googling, the things they suggest are graphite lubricant or WD40, but others say never use WD40. Is there any reason I shouldn't try graphite lubricant? They don't seem to be different grades or whatever, but at the same point, I don't want to squirt random substances into my locks without at least asking someone who knows something.
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Jan 17, 2016 03:38
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Never use goo or fluid of any kind in locks, always graphite. If you need to lube the linkages that are behind the scenes (inside the doors), take the door card off and lube with goo of your choice.
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Jan 17, 2016 04:11
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Slavvy posted:Never use goo or fluid of any kind in locks, always graphite. If you need to lube the linkages that are behind the scenes (inside the doors), take the door card off and lube with goo of your choice. Bingo. The graphite stuff is a super fine powder. Get the smallest tube you can find, I saw a huge bottle at Lowes today which I found hilarious, since I've been using the same 1/2 oz tube for about 15 years and it's still probably half full.
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Jan 17, 2016 04:51
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Just be careful, graphite powder can get everywhere fast, and you probably don't want to inhale it.
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Jan 17, 2016 08:00
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Alright, perfect. Thanks you all very much for the quick response.
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Jan 17, 2016 13:00
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Raluek posted:Either the battery is dead, or you have some super grody corroded terminals right at the battery. I'm assuming you connected the jumper cables right to the battery terminals, so everything upstream from there is known to be good. Visually inspect the terminals, and clean them if they look suspicious. Replace the battery cables if they're the type where the terminal is clamped directly onto the wire, instead of being crimped and molded or similar. If you suspect you may have that type, post a picture for confirmation. I took it to Auto Zone and they tested it and confirmed it was dead. Got it replaced and now I'm good to go  Thanks for the help.
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Jan 17, 2016 19:05
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Christobevii3 posted:4.3 guy check if you have a loving spark. WTF with pouring gas into the engine and not expecting it to flood out. Have you ever changed the distributor? Seriously check the spark or you have some crazy vats lock out. I almost grantee it is the distributor if you haven't changed it before. All your sensors don't matter from a cold start really on a 4.3L it just dumps fuel, air, and needs a spark. MAF matters more after it ran a minute and goes out of cold start mode. Thanks for the advice, and yeah spankmeister it was just the one plug we checked. I watched the video and though we're already changing the plugs and plug wires (which were possibly original) I also went and bought these to check on things after that's done: 
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Jan 18, 2016 00:24
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Jack B Nimble posted:
Both of those things are cheap and useful, especially the inline checker - I keep one permanently in my offroad 4x4 kit after having to check for spark without one on a cold, hungover morning 20 miles from pavement.
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Jan 18, 2016 03:00
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At least it is a GM ignition that doesn't kill you?
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Jan 18, 2016 03:49
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What's the best cost:effectiveness ratio sound deadening I can put in my first generation Dodge Ram? I'm only concerned with road noise so my current plan is to fix my lovely floor pans and carpet then get some off brand dynamat. Comedy option: loud rear end stereo.
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Jan 18, 2016 14:09
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Comedy option would be insulating with expands foam or gas station foam coolers. What noise you getting? Road, engine, or exhaust?
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Jan 18, 2016 16:18
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It's all road.
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Jan 18, 2016 18:25
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Are you running mud tires?
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Jan 18, 2016 19:01
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2004 GMC Envoy w/ 4.3l I6 -- How much should the tensioner arm/pulley be moving? I don't have a problem with the belt-driven accessories, but the tensioner arm bounces a good 3/4" all the time. I've never seen more than a tiny bit of deflection in normal operation from any of my other cars with a similar tensioner design... should I be concerned?
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Jan 19, 2016 01:50
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The 4.2L inline six is a bit rough running. If it bothers you change the tensioner. Also chevy idler pulleys like to seize up and are hella cheap to replace.
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Jan 19, 2016 04:02
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Ok, so we're still trying to figure out what's wrong with the 2001 (I had the user wrong before) Sonoma with the 4.3 v6. All the plugs and wires have been replaced, and I used that inline tester I bought to verify spark on every single new plug + wire. However, when I try to use the circuit tester on the coil it's not showing activity/power. Am I doing it wrong? Here's a picture of how I was trying to test it:  I believe that's the same grounding spot that was used in the video; is the circuit testing not showing any light/activity because I'm an idiot or is there some problem here? Edit: Also screw that engine in that truck, one of the spark plugs is dead behind the steering column. Should have gotten the four cylinder, Tim Allensque power lusting be damned. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 05:18
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You've confirmed spark, so it's safe to assume the coil is getting power. Also, that tester is probably rated for 12 volts, right? You're putting more than a bit over 12V into it by poking it into the coil like that, so you may have burned it out.
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Jan 19, 2016 05:54
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some texas redneck posted:You've confirmed spark, so it's safe to assume the coil is getting power. woops. Thought I bought the more expensive one for just that reason but may be. So if I've got more than enough fuel pressure and all the spark plugs work...it's jumped time.
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Jan 19, 2016 13:33
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Jack B Nimble posted:woops. Thought I bought the more expensive one for just that reason but may be. So if I've got more than enough fuel pressure and all the spark plugs work...it's jumped time. You mentioned in your first post that a compression test was "next", has that been done yet? You need fuel, air and spark; if 2 are good I'd check that before moving on to mechanical issues. That engine's the same architecture as a small block V8, I really doubt it's got bad valve timing at only 150k. It's possible the valves need adjusting, but that'll show up on... you guessed it, a compression test. Do that first, and if it's bad then you can diagnose why. If it's good, your timing is fine unless it's 360 degrees of crank rotation off or something retarded (  )
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Jan 19, 2016 13:53
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