|
I have a 4TB Seagate HDD and use their software to span the drive so that Windows sees it as a single 4TB drive. Up until last night, when I downloaded a bunch of Windows updates, it was never a problem, it worked great. The Seagate software uses VirtualDiskSetup.msi by Acronis which is several years old now and never designed to run on Windows 10. And now won't run at all. Which means no drive  When I run the Seagate software to try and fix the drive, it tells me I need to run the VirtualDiskSetup.msi before it will do anything. But when I download a fresh copy from their link, the installer just crashes. I went and found a trick which lets me run .msi files as administrator and even that didn't work. Does anyone know any other way to run a large drive under Windows 10? The computer can see the drive, but it says "failed" and doesn't recognise it as a single volume. 
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 04:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 12:45 |
|
|
Does anyone know if a Pentium 2 heatsink will fit on a Slot-1 Pentium 3, or vice versa? yes this is a serious question
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 05:10
|
|
|
Gorilla Salad posted:Does anyone know any other way to run a large drive under Windows 10? Right-click the grey bit where it says disk 1 and errors, then select convert to GPT. This will destroy all data on the disk, though. So maybe try to uninstall the updates that broke your previous solution and see if that let's you recover your data.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 07:09
|
|
|
Samuel L. ACKSYN posted:Does anyone know if a Pentium 2 heatsink will fit on a Slot-1 Pentium 3, or vice versa? I think the P3 ones mounted with the 4 holes around the core while the P2 ones would clip on near the edges, so I'm not sure if it'll work right. I'd try it but there's really no guarantee. I had a few P2's but the only P3 I owned was socketed and I used it in a Slocket which didn't have the same configuration as the actual slot 1 P3's. Otherwise I'd bust it out and look (I still have the P2's).
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 10:19
|
|
|
Is this the right thread to ask what cool stuff I can do with a 500GB external disk? I recently pulled the 500GB disk out of my PS4 and have it sitting in a USB 3.0 enclosure now. I was thinking maybe some bootable tools/copy of Linux for when I have to fix my in-laws PC and stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 12:33
|
|
|
Geemer posted:Right-click the grey bit where it says disk 1 and errors, then select convert to GPT. All greyed out:  Reactivating doesn't work either. Sadly using the restore point didn't work. I know it was working less than a day before I did the update, but now I'm thinking maybe it wasn't the update and it happening around the same time was just a coincidence. Correlation and causation and all that. Tomorrow I'll crack the case open and move cables around and plug them in differently and see if that helps. I think I've got three drives running off the one power cable, so it can't hurt to separate them. I really don't want to wipe the drive. There's nothing vitally important, but it does have a tonne of music and stuff like that which will just be annoying as hell to get organised again. Megillah Gorilla fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jan 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 14:53
|
|
|
Oh, oops, you'll have to delete all partitions first. https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc725671.aspx There are some tools that claim to be able to do it without data loss, but I have no idea if they are legit. And they will certainly ruin chances of recovery for your non-standards situation. Good luck figuring out how to fix it if you want to save your data. Maybe a deep scan with Recuva or something similar will let you get some data back once you get your drive back to an accessible state. But I really wouldn't bet on it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 15:29
|
|
|
Gorilla Salad posted:The Seagate software uses VirtualDiskSetup.msi by Acronis which is several years old now and never designed to run on Windows 10. Have you tried running the software in compatibility mode? Also anything stopping you from temporarily installing windows 7 on a separate partition/drive and using that to extract the data?
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 19:53
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I think the P3 ones mounted with the 4 holes around the core while the P2 ones would clip on near the edges, so I'm not sure if it'll work right. I'd try it but there's really no guarantee. I had a few P2's but the only P3 I owned was socketed and I used it in a Slocket which didn't have the same configuration as the actual slot 1 P3's. Otherwise I'd bust it out and look (I still have the P2's). Ah, thanks. I've got a P2 and a P3 coming, along with a P2 heatsink/fan so I guess I'll find out when they get here. There were no pictures so I'm not sure what exactly this heatsink/fan looks like.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2016 20:39
|
|
|
My computer is hosed up and I don't have time to try and fix it/post a long thread in Haus of Tech Support but I wanted to see if I'm on the right track-- I just put together this build, plus an HD 4870 GPU from 2007. It worked great for a couple of weeks, then abruptly shut off out of nowhere. When I tried to turn it on for the next hour or two, the lights on the case and GPU and the case fans would come on, but the CPU fan and the GPU fan would not. I made sure the cables/jumpers/cards were plugged in so I don't think it's that. A couple hours later the computer started normally. I'm eyeing the GPU, since it's ancient and has been pretty loud lately, but I'm wondering if it's possible for a GPU to cause the CPU fan to not spin? Or am I barking up the wrong tree here.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 20:02
|
|
|
You could always just try removing the GPU and using the internal graphics.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2016 20:11
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Have you tried running the software in compatibility mode? Heavily condensed comedy of errors, here we go: I had the Windows 7 idea too, but when I tried installing it my mouse and keyboard wouldn't work. I worked out it was because they were connected via USB3, put them in the right spots and still no go. I followed suggestions I found for turning changing my motherboard' settings, but the drat things still didn't work. But I realised, hey Windows 8.1 could handle USB3, why not try that? So I went to download it from Microsoft to make a bootable USB stick, only their installer tells me I needed a drive larger than 4GB to put it on. Despite having a couple dozen thumb sticks rolling around in my drawers, do you think I had even a single 8 or 16 gig stick? No, not one and no idea where they've gotten to. Off I go to the supermarket at 2am to pick up a cheapo stick. I finally manage to get Windows 8.1 on the thumb drive and even went and found a generic key which would let me install it because I know it's the first thing you get asked and can't continue the install without one. Thinking ahead, finding problems before they happen, that's me. "Windows cannot be installed on this disk. The selected disk has an MBR partition table. On EFI systems, Windows can only installed on GPT disks."  Turns out, none of my working hard drives were suitable and I wasn't formatting them for this bloody farce because they DO have important stuff on them. I go hunting again and find Seagate Tools for Windows which tells me the drive is perfectly fine and it even writes data to it. This upped my spirits a bit and I continued hunting through Seagate's site and find Seagate have data recovery software designed especially for their own disks. I download it, leave it running overnight and it finds everything! Deliriously happy at this point, I click the "recover data" button and get told that the software is trial only and won't recover any file larger than 64kB. Naturally you need to pay to actually recover poo poo. The price? $100. Off I got to work to think whether not having to reorganise all my music, ebooks and TV shows just the way I like them is worth $100. It is, but I wasn't quite ready to admit it. But finally, the only actual bit of luck in this entire affair, one of my coworkers owns the same Seagate recovery software I downloaded and let me use his copy. Hallelujah. Data's all saved and I've turned the 4TB drive into two 2TB drives so I'll never have to deal with this poo poo again.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 01:27
|
|
|
Here is a question that I have never seen asked. How often should I replace my AIO water cooling unit?
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 17:01
|
|
|
remote desktop sucks but I like to use my work desktop as a window inside my rig, I was wondering if some kind of hdmi input for the PC, with a program that display said input in a window, exists edit: I realize now how stupid this is since there is probably no way to have a input to go back trough hdmi lol, and I really can't think on a feasible way to do so outside networking and it's lags and stuff program666 fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Jan 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 18:57
|
|
|
SlayVus posted:Here is a question that I have never seen asked. How often should I replace my AIO water cooling unit?
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 19:13
|
|
|
I'm not sure I saw a thread and not sure if it goes in the PC thread, but I'm looking for any good recommendations for modems and modems/routers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 21:21
|
|
|
Pyrolocutus posted:I'm not sure I saw a thread and not sure if it goes in the PC thread, but I'm looking for any good recommendations for modems and modems/routers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2016 21:34
|
|
|
I'm not sure if this would be better asked here or the headphones thread, but I had a quick question on virtual surround sound settings for headsets. I have an external sound card that has a virtual surround sound option and I was wondering how that interacts with in-game settings. I believe that the sound card setting relies on stereo input from the computer and tries to emulate 7.1 from that, so would I want to keep my in-game sound settings as stereo headphones? Turning on surround sound in-game seems like it would be redundant and provide the wrong input to the sound card, but everyone seems to have a different opinion on whether that's true or not.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2016 07:00
|
|
|
I replaced my VH236H with a VH238H (basically the same model except the CCFL bulbs are replaced by LEDs) and god drat is this thing eyesearingly bright.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2016 13:27
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:I'm not sure if this would be better asked here or the headphones thread, but I had a quick question on virtual surround sound settings for headsets. I have an external sound card that has a virtual surround sound option and I was wondering how that interacts with in-game settings. I believe that the sound card setting relies on stereo input from the computer and tries to emulate 7.1 from that, so would I want to keep my in-game sound settings as stereo headphones? Turning on surround sound in-game seems like it would be redundant and provide the wrong input to the sound card, but everyone seems to have a different opinion on whether that's true or not.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2016 13:53
|
|
|
I didn't see a home theater thread so I guess this is the place to ask this. I've got an Onkyo receiver (TX-NR616 to be precise) that has been on the fritz. A chip that controlled the sound for HDMI burnt out (I was getting video with no sound), which is apparently a known issue with this model and Onkyo serviced it for free. Worked fine for about 2 months until last night. Now I'm not getting anything on HDMI input. It only happened last night so I haven't called Onkyo yet, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what they did about it. If this thing is going to poo poo the bed every month from now on I'd almost rather buy a new receiver.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2016 16:53
|
|
|
Clanpot Shake posted:I didn't see a home theater thread so I guess this is the place to ask this. I've got an Onkyo receiver (TX-NR616 to be precise) that has been on the fritz. A chip that controlled the sound for HDMI burnt out (I was getting video with no sound), which is apparently a known issue with this model and Onkyo serviced it for free. Worked fine for about 2 months until last night. Now I'm not getting anything on HDMI input. It only happened last night so I haven't called Onkyo yet, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what they did about it. If this thing is going to poo poo the bed every month from now on I'd almost rather buy a new receiver. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2389259
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2016 17:02
|
|
|
I'm not sure if this belongs in here, but I've got a 64GB SDXC card in my DSLR. When my camera is plugged into my computer via USB, my PC recognizes it and I'm able to get data off of it. But when I put the SD card directly into my computer, it just shows up as "Removable Disk (G:)". The disk shows up in Disk Management, but I can't create a new partition in the unallocated space because "The media in the drive may have changed." I can't clean the disk in diskpart because "The device is not ready." I can't fix errors using chkdsk because "The type of the file system is RAW. CHKDSK is not available for RAW drives." Is there a way to fix this or is this thing hosed? I'm assuming it's not hosed because I'm able to pull data off of it just fine when my camera's hooked up through USB, but nothing I try seems to get it to function as a normal SD card without the camera attached.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2016 08:35
|
|
|
Is whatever card reader you're using able to handle SDXC, or even SDHC? You might need a driver or firmware update to get it to work with larger cards.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2016 10:03
|
|
|
Geemer posted:Is whatever card reader you're using able to handle SDXC, or even SDHC? You might need a driver or firmware update to get it to work with larger cards.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2016 14:32
|
|
|
At my job I use a lot of "pre-defines" basically things that I copy paste to customers over and over again. I can't install Auto-Hotkey, and the LMI pre-defined tool kind of sucks balls. There's also a few other things I want to automate with macros. So normally I bring in my G13, and will just have all my pre-defines on that. My problem comes in that I have my Headset Receiver, my G13, my Keyboard, and My trackball with me at my work station. I take these home with me as well. I don't sit at the same place every day, and I get enough weird looks as it is, that I don't really want to keep unplugging then plugging back in 4 USB cords. Is there a way to get four devices to work on 1 or 2 USB ports easily, without it looking like a mess? How do I tell how much power I need on my USB Hub?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2016 08:43
|
|
|
Turtlicious posted:How do I tell how much power I need on my USB Hub? Honestly any powered USB hub will be able to handle your devices, none of which are particularly high draw. You might even be able to get away with an unpowered hub.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2016 17:47
|
|
|
Dumb question: Does anyone know of a cheap video card/adpater that outputs to regular old yellow rca video out (or S-video)? Preferably one that connects via USB? There are plenty of USB analog video CAPTURE devices, but I'm looking for output, not input. There are also plenty of USB VGA adapters, but none that output rca out or even S-video.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2016 18:14
|
|
|
Gozinbulx posted:Dumb question: Does anyone know of a cheap video card/adpater that outputs to regular old yellow rca video out (or S-video)? Preferably one that connects via USB? There are plenty of USB analog video CAPTURE devices, but I'm looking for output, not input. There are also plenty of USB VGA adapters, but none that output rca out or even S-video. If you've already got a video card with a DVI output, try this. They also make it for converting to s-video. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/815554-REG/TV_One_ZDR2042_DVI_to_RCA_Component_Video_Adapter.html/prm/alsVwDtl
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2016 18:26
|
|
|
Booley posted:If you've already got a video card with a DVI output, try this. They also make it for converting to s-video. Interesting... though the one you posted is component (not composite) but s-video SHOULD do (i think). My (probably stupid) idea is a computer with something like 8 of these outputs. Are they any real cheap DVI-OUT cards that one could install 8 of feasibly? Are there mobos with 8 pci-e slots or whatever (I imagine so).
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2016 18:45
|
|
|
Gozinbulx posted:Interesting... though the one you posted is component (not composite) but s-video SHOULD do (i think). Get 4 of these? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814106016R There's also cards with like 6 displayport outputs, you could hilariously daisy-chain converters.  Also, don't those DVI to analog converters require the video card to also send along an analog signal?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2016 19:39
|
|
|
My printer doesn't seem to get along with Windows 10 – it's several years old and I've long since lost the driver software – and now it has stopped printing anything with black ink as of yesterday. So it looks like I need a new printer. I'm looking for an all-in-one printer/scanner/copier with bluetooth for my room. Perhaps an HP Officejet. Anyone have any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 02:23
|
|
|
Dr. Gitmo Moneyson posted:My printer doesn't seem to get along with Windows 10 – it's several years old and I've long since lost the driver software – and now it has stopped printing anything with black ink as of yesterday. So it looks like I need a new printer. Do you really need bluetooth? Any of the entry level Officejets should suit you fine, but they tend not to have Bluetooth since wifi and USB cover every device that can print to them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 03:23
|
|
|
fishmech posted:Do you really need bluetooth? Any of the entry level Officejets should suit you fine, but they tend not to have Bluetooth since wifi and USB cover every device that can print to them. I guess it doesn't have to have bluetooth, no, but it'd be nice if there was a little bit less wire clutter. Although I suppose wi-fi would cover that too.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 04:49
|
|
|
Just want to confirm, in Windows 10 if you set up a mirrored drive formatted with ReFS, you get read patrolling/bit rot protection for free.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 06:19
|
|
|
Can a trackball be better / more precise for gaming then a mouse?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 06:36
|
|
|
Turtlicious posted:Can a trackball be better / more precise for gaming then a mouse? They are equally accurate/precise devices, it simply comes down to which you find more comfortable.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 16:15
|
|
|
I have 2 SATA drives in an external USB3.0 bay Both lost their partitions within 5 minutes of each other. I don't know if it was the bay or just luck since besides the physical move from internal to external, both of these have been running 24x7 for at least 2 years. Anyway, what's the best free recovery software to either recover the entire partitions or at worst just some specific files? I poked them with the trial for EaseUS Data Recovery and it sees the files, but you have to pay to actually restore anything. I'm fine if the partition is unrecoverable as long as I can get a bunch of files off of the drives.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 19:20
|
|
|
Piriform Recuva isn't as advanced as all the paid software, but if it can't recover your files, a good bunch of them were probably going to be damaged anyway. Note that you will need to recover files to another drive.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 19:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 12:45 |
|
|
Flipperwaldt posted:Piriform Recuva isn't as advanced as all the paid software, but if it can't recover your files, a good bunch of them were probably going to be damaged anyway. I'll check that out, thanks I know one drive has only a few small things I want recovered that will fit on my NAS for now, so I'm going to grab those off, reformat that drive, and save the data from the other drive onto it. e: So Recuva can't even select those drives because it pops up the Windows dialog "this drive needs to be formatted etc" Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jan 20, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2016 19:51
|
|