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No, that's the engine that likes to drink a quart of oil every thousand miles. But that was mostly a 2008 thing. The 3.8 is a decent motor, but not great at anything. Less power than the 3.6, and less reliable than the 4.0, but not bad at anything either.
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Jan 25, 2016 07:27
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We have a 2014 Nissan Versa Note that needs its rear wiper blade replaced and I must be stupid because I can't seem to get the arm to lift at all. Is there a button or a release or someshit for it? The manual just says to contact the dealership for replacing the rear blade but I really don't want to go to the goddamn dealer just to get a wiper blade replaced 
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Jan 25, 2016 22:45
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Don't know, but does this help? http://www.ezwipers.com/wipers/Nissan/Versa-Note/2014/change/rear Or? http://www.nissanversaforums.com/general-versa-discussion/4293-replace-rear-wiper-blade-2.html
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Jan 25, 2016 22:58
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Uthor posted:Don't know, but does this help? I checked this out before making an attempt, but it's not helpful because I can't even raise the arm more than an inch. Uthor posted:http://www.nissanversaforums.com/general-versa-discussion/4293-replace-rear-wiper-blade-2.html Holy poo poo this thread is full of people recommending to just replace the rubber strip. Why Nissan why god drat it  I'm not sure if I want to try that solution in that post. Seems like I could break something... Edit: After looking at it closer the wiper in the ezwipers.com page don't even have the same design. Mak0rz fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 23:06
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I saw some videos for previous year cars where they just popped off the plastic cover at the base of the wiper arm and unscrewed the nut that was holding the arm to the motor so the arm could be removed completely. Not sure if that works for your car, sorry. EDIT: If it makes you feel better, to get at the front wipers on my VW, I need to get in, close the door (important!), turn the key to "ON", turn the key back to "OFF", then hit the wiper stalk. This causes the wipers to move to the end of their sweep, then stop in a vertical position. If I don't do that, the arms get captured by the underside of the hood and only come up about an inch. Uthor fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 25, 2016 |
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Jan 25, 2016 23:16
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Could be worse! At least a key-on/off cycle is pretty painless.
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Jan 25, 2016 23:34
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Mak0rz posted:We have a 2014 Nissan Versa Note that needs its rear wiper blade replaced and I must be stupid because I can't seem to get the arm to lift at all. Is there a button or a release or someshit for it? Plastic cover at the pivot point comes off and there is a bolt under there
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Jan 26, 2016 01:35
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Mak0rz posted:I checked this out before making an attempt, but it's not helpful because I can't even raise the arm more than an inch. Usually replacing the rubber is much cheaper. Depending on the design it can range from easy to impossible.
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Jan 26, 2016 02:16
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It is pretty easy to replace the rubber with the arm off. The arm pre loaded is $15 or something comical for a 10" blade on that car.
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Jan 26, 2016 02:52
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Christobevii3 posted:Plastic cover at the pivot point comes off and there is a bolt under there Yeah, I tried getting the arm off too. I removed the bolt but the arm just wouldn't budge. I'll give it another try tomorrow. Bovril Delight posted:Usually replacing the rubber is much cheaper. Depending on the design it can range from easy to impossible. If I had known it would be this much of a nuisance I would have just bought the rubber. Not sure how hard it is for this car but according to various Nissan forums it's at least easier than replacing the whole blade. I'll probably end up making a trip to the dealer. I already called and they said there's no charge if I already have the replacement blade. Still a pain to make the trip though.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:14
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It has blue loctite on it. You think you will break it but you won't. Just pull hard while wiggling.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:51
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Here's a stupid question that will hopefully give me some peace of mind... I live in central PA, and we just had that apocalyptic snowstorm pass through. 30 inches of snow! I have a 2011 Nissan Versa and the plastic paneling underneath the car is a bit cracked, and I guess the blizzard-condition winds blew these 30 inches of snow up underneath the paneling and filled my entire engine compartment with snow. When I dug it out on Sunday, I started it up - just fine - and I backed it out of the snowdrift that had built around it, then immediately shut it off. The next morning I went to start it to go to work and it'll turn over but won't actually start, and that's when I popped the hood and found the winter wonderland underneath. There hasn't been any additional winds or accumulation since Saturday, so whatever snow was in there has been in there since I first got it started and moved it about 10 feet. So, I've had the hood up during the day yesterday and today in hopes that the sun will melt me out, but being completely ignorant of automotive technology, I'm paranoid that I've shorted something out by starting it that one time, or that it's going to be damaged by all the water melting out of it and possibly refreezing overnight, and I'm scared my car is hosed. Because of this, I haven't tried to start it since yesterday. How should I proceed here? Ashton fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Jan 26, 2016 |
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Jan 26, 2016 18:46
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Ashton posted:Here's a stupid question that will hopefully give me some peace of mind... How old is your battery? Sounds more to me like the cold combined with starting it without giving it time to charge back up killed your battery. Try jumping it.
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Jan 26, 2016 19:50
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opengl128 posted:How old is your battery? Sounds more to me like the cold combined with starting it without giving it time to charge back up killed your battery. Try jumping it. If it has enough power to crank, I really doubt it is unable to run the engine electronics etc. If it wasn't cranking, I would agree with you.
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Jan 26, 2016 19:54
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Some pictures showing just how snow-filled your engine bay is may help. For example, if snow made it up to the coil plugs or wires, then you may have ignition issues that could be solved with some paper towels.
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Jan 26, 2016 19:58
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Here's how it was yesterday, at its worst. It was PACKED. And today we're down to this...  The bottom half of the compartment is still pretty snowy. Like I said, I haven't tried to start it at all today, I mostly just wanted to be sure I wouldn't cause further damage by attempting to do so.
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Jan 26, 2016 20:15
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Ashton posted:Here's how it was yesterday, at its worst. It was PACKED. You might consider moving.
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Jan 26, 2016 20:24
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Raluek posted:If it has enough power to crank, I really doubt it is unable to run the engine electronics etc. I just had to deal with this yesterday; my wife ran the battery on her car down just enough on the dome light that it was able to crank but not start. When I trickle charged the battery it still wouldn't start; it was flooded. Had to floor the gas pedal while starting the car in order to tell the ECU to shut the injectors off. I've replaced the dome light with an LED and I plan to pull the 100k km plugs and put fresh ones in too.
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Jan 26, 2016 21:18
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Ashton posted:Here's how it was yesterday, at its worst. It was PACKED. Let that poo poo dry out then try again. Maybe unplug some easy-to-access plugs and see if they're full of water. If they are then dry them out and try again and hope that the hard-to-reach plugs aren't wet as well.
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Jan 26, 2016 23:37
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I decided it looked "good enough" and tried again... it gave me a little trouble at first but I did get it started, and now it's happily idling away here and hopefully warming up enough to melt the rest of the poo poo out. Phew!
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Jan 27, 2016 00:07
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Considering going aftermarket bushings (energy poly) in my 07 civic si. The original control arms are old and fugly, and a bit rusty. How much of a quality hit am I taking by getting rockauto OE control arms, and paying a machine shop to press the bushings in for me? Paying for new OEM arms with bushings in them that I am not going to use seems like a waste. I assume the bushings in the OE arms arent as good, but those are getting immediately binned anyways, so I guess what I am asking is if the quality of the actual metal chunk of the arm is generally different from OEM to OE.
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Jan 27, 2016 01:54
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How many bushings? Are you friends / regulars with any mechanics, I got all my pressing done for 2 packs of smokes and a pizza.
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Jan 27, 2016 02:13
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tater_salad posted:How many bushings? Are you friends / regulars with any mechanics, I got all my pressing done for 2 packs of smokes and a pizza. I wish. All of my friends are big nerds who don't work on their cars. I am in metro Detroit though, I assume there are a few local machine shops who would like some beers. It would be a full set of bushings for all the control arms and sway links. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 02:19
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Just replace them! They're cheap, tools are borrowable from autozone, and you can clean them up with a wire brush and some paint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPbL9HTHZg0
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Jan 27, 2016 02:20
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I recently spent an ungodly amount of money on a kayak and some fancy kayaking accessories. It turns out there's no good place to attach the front and rear tie down ropes on a 2014 Mazda 3 hatch, without using the screw-in tow hooks that go through the front and rear bumpers. Like so: My stupid question is: what horrible things will happen to my car if I leave these hooks in 24/7? Should I try to rig up something to fill in the gaps left in the bumper covers?
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Jan 27, 2016 02:20
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FBS posted:My stupid question is: what horrible things will happen to my car if I leave these hooks in 24/7? Should I try to rig up something to fill in the gaps left in the bumper covers? Shitlords will identify you as a "tuner" or "hoonigan" and want to race you.
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Jan 27, 2016 02:31
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I would install them with blue loctite or they might vibrate out for your pleasure
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Jan 27, 2016 02:36
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How often are you going to go kayaking? Super often, and you might find it useful to get a beater Jeep Cherokee to be your Kayak Truck, in which you could stash your wet gear and not really worry about messing up your nice car. If less than once a week, you might want to not leave your tow hooks installed all the drat time.
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Jan 27, 2016 02:40
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FBS posted:I recently spent an ungodly amount of money on a kayak and some fancy kayaking accessories. It turns out there's no good place to attach the front and rear tie down ropes on a 2014 Mazda 3 hatch, without using the screw-in tow hooks that go through the front and rear bumpers. Like so: Comedy option you will bump into a brick wall parking or someone else and damage your car and/or theirs.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:01
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For about $600, you can get a factory roof rack and kayak holder. Not including installation.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:21
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Safety Dance posted:How often are you going to go kayaking? Super often, and you might find it useful to get a beater Jeep Cherokee to be your Kayak Truck, in which you could stash your wet gear and not really worry about messing up your nice car. If less than once a week, you might want to not leave your tow hooks installed all the drat time. I hope to go at least weekly, and once DST kicks in I can go on workdays as well. I don't have the space or the money to buy a second car right now just to haul the kayak around. Uthor posted:For about $600, you can get a factory roof rack and kayak holder. Not including installation. I'm using the factory Whispbar roof rack and Whispbar kayak J-cradle.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:30
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FBS posted:I'm using the factory Whispbar roof rack and Whispbar kayak J-cradle. If I were you, in that case, I'd get creative with some ratchet straps to hold the kayak taught to the roof rack and secure forwards and backwards. I mean, yeah, go ahead and leave your tow hooks installed if you want, but there are better solutions.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:53
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H110Hawk posted:Comedy option you will bump into a brick wall parking or someone else and damage your car and/or theirs. Yes or you hit a pedestrian and you cripple them for life.
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Jan 27, 2016 09:13
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spankmeister posted:Yes or you hit a pedestrian and you cripple them for life. Whose life? Yours, theirs, or the car's? I hardly think a tow hook is going to be the most menacing thing on the road for a pedestrian.
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Jan 27, 2016 09:27
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Raluek posted:Whose life? Yours, theirs, or the car's? If you hit them on the leg with it you probably completely shatter their bones.
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Jan 27, 2016 09:42
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You know what else does that? A car.
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Jan 27, 2016 10:21
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What about getting poked in the eye by the pointy end of a kayak?
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Jan 27, 2016 10:21
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Won't somebody please think of the children('s shins)?!
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Jan 27, 2016 15:25
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Geirskogul posted:You know what else does that? Not necessarily. At low speed it's not too bad, but I really wouldn't want to have caught a hook like that in the leg.
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Jan 27, 2016 16:57
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I don't think it's any worse than a nice chromed steel bumper at shin height, of which there are many on the road.
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Jan 27, 2016 18:10
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