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You can't tell us that without saying what the proj was...
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Jan 27, 2016 02:03
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I just found out today that this website is a thing: http://jive-assanchors.com My fave is the newest post showing an American Death Triangle hung in Ouray Ice Park. As if the ADT isn't bad enough, add crampons to the mix! Should be fun times. As an aside, guess where I'm going this weekend!?!?! I will not be trading ropes at Ouray Ice Park. Noooooope.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:12
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crazycello posted:You can't tell us that without saying what the proj was... it was the pearl at red rock. i've never been particularly good on shallow pockets and crimps, so this thing has always felt super hard for me. psyched to finally send it, but the pulley sprain is a real bummer. TBH it just seems kind of freakish because i never really crimped very hard with my left hand, so i don't know what made it pop... just bad luck, oh well
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Jan 27, 2016 21:59
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Haha the Pearl is hosed up, I gave that problem like two goes and hated how it made my left fingers feel and have had no desire to touch it again. Glad you sent it, you earned it on that shallow lovely pocket and lovely feet
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Jan 28, 2016 07:12
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Save me jeebus posted:I just found out today that this website is a thing: Hahaha, oh god this is gold, that hobnail piton.  Reminds me of the poo poo my buddy has been sending me from Japan: 
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Jan 28, 2016 10:26
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Rime posted:Hahaha, oh god this is gold, that hobnail piton. I was about to say that the hobnail piton reminded me of some of the old pro in the Garden of the Gods, then I saw your photo. People climb on that in TYOOL 2016?
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Jan 28, 2016 23:34
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Save me jeebus posted:I was about to say that the hobnail piton reminded me of some of the old pro in the Garden of the Gods, then I saw your photo. People climb on that in TYOOL 2016? People do all kinds of janky poo poo while climbing.
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Jan 29, 2016 01:05
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spwrozek posted:People do all kinds of janky poo poo while climbing. Truth. My first trad lead was in the Garden. It has two manky old pins on it (25' runout to the first pin). Suffice it to say I was out of my head on my first trad run and was super stoked to see an old pin.
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Jan 29, 2016 03:06
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Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess 
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Jan 29, 2016 21:30
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Headhunter posted:Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess I've done this to both my ankles from bouldering in the past few years. Both my sprains were pretty bad, and left me on crutches for a couple weeks and in a compression wrap for longer. My only advice would be to see a PT as soon as you can and be dedicated to rehab. You want to start rehabbing ASAP, after the inflammation goes down, but obviously you need to be careful with it in the beginning. My 2nd sprain healed probably 2x faster than my first sprain on account of me being more diligent with PT.
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Jan 30, 2016 20:14
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One with the wall tonight. 
no broccoli please fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Feb 5, 2016 |
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Feb 5, 2016 07:32
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You know your game is good today if you can edge on buddha's nose.
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Feb 5, 2016 17:07
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Black Diamond is recalling a bunch of biners and runners. Check your gear. http://www.climbing.com/news/black-diamond-carabiner-and-runner-recall/
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Feb 5, 2016 17:39
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Headhunter posted:Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess Get an X-ray. I rolled my ankle and the tendon ripped a piece of bone off. Bone refused in the right spot basically but I should have been wearing a full support boot during the healing process.
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Feb 6, 2016 05:15
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gently caress. I think I jacked up my shoulder at Ouray last weekend. I was on some rotten ice (I dumbly went off-route to avoid some assholes who were tossing down ropes without calling them; I got tagged by their first throw and narrowly missed the second "Oh, we didn't see anyone down there, so we didn't call it."  ) with my right arm locked off, reaching up with my left. Feet gave out, I fell full-weight onto my right ice tool and felt a pop. I did a few more climbs that day, and felt fine the next day. Then Snowmaggedon came and I spent an hour and a half clearing wet, heavy snow on Monday. Tuesday it was wrecked. After a whole week of shoveling snow, lifting poo poo at work, and cutting 80lb of various veg/protein at work per day, I can feel a big tough cord of...something, in my deltoid. It's sore and weak.  Any suggestions as to therapeutic exercises, or should I just stay off of it while it heals?
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Feb 6, 2016 16:58
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Just booked my ticket for a week at Red Rocks  Is anyone familiar with the bouldering there? I would appreciate recommendations.
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Feb 8, 2016 15:05
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French Canadian posted:Get an X-ray. I rolled my ankle and the tendon ripped a piece of bone off. Bone refused in the right spot basically but I should have been wearing a full support boot during the healing process. That sounds horrendous. I'm going to go to the doctors tomorrow I think as it's still swollen 10 days later. Really hate the mental side of being injured.
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Feb 8, 2016 15:43
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turevidar posted:Just booked my ticket for a week at Red Rocks Kraft and Gateway Canyon (next to each other) are the classic areas. If you are there a week though you'll want more, but it depends on what grade you climb
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Feb 8, 2016 17:58
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Heading to El Potrero Chico this Saturday for a week of climbing. I'm really excited. This will be my first time there and my first time doing some multi-pitch.
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Feb 9, 2016 02:22
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Niyqor posted:Heading to El Potrero Chico this Saturday for a week of climbing. I'm really excited. This will be my first time there and my first time doing some multi-pitch. Hope you practiced change overs and what you do if you have problems. Being slow at change overs is the difference between being caught in the dark and making it back for dinner, beer, and a sunset.
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Feb 9, 2016 03:01
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crazycello posted:Anyone have any climbing recommendations near Phoenix? A buddy and I are flying in the first weekend of February for 3 days of climbing to escape the Canadian cold. As of now, we're thinking of Queen Creek Canyon and staying in a nearby town. He'd be mostly looking for good routes in the 12+/13- range and I'm mostly interested in 11+/12-. Update: Queen Creek Canyon is alright if you're in the area but kinda meh. However, 'The Homestead' is fantastic. https://www.instagram.com/p/BBgfieswoyOwQoUE7_dC3Hs5BnIvW5HjKSoDNA0/ Tufa wrestling. crazycello fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Feb 9, 2016 |
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Feb 9, 2016 04:45
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crazycello posted:Update: Queen Creek Canyon is alright if you're in the area but kinda meh. However, 'The Homestead' is fantastic. Private account, yo.
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Feb 9, 2016 08:31
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Headhunter posted:Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess
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Feb 9, 2016 14:15
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Rime posted:Private account, yo.   
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Feb 9, 2016 23:19
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How is the road up to the Homestead? Do you still need a 4x4 with rear lockers to get up?
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Feb 9, 2016 23:31
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tortilla_chip posted:How is the road up to the Homestead? Do you still need a 4x4 with rear lockers to get up? You definitely need a 4x4, but it's walkable if you don't mind long approaches. My buddy and I parked our rental car by the highway and made it to the furthest crag in about 80 minutes with some time lost routefinding. I'm sure you could make to welcome wall in 50, but the climbing there didn't touch anything I tried at the other walls.
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Feb 10, 2016 00:34
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That feel when you finish your first multi-pitch.
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Feb 11, 2016 06:46
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Joining the injury train.  DBC set a traverse around a large volume with glassy as poo poo feet. I brushed it to what I figured was as good as it gets, and gave it a whirl. The exit around the volume had no hands, so I was trying to crimp on a foot jib and my foot blew off some of the glassiest poo poo I have had to put feet on. Wrenched shoulder and wrist. Face came down and a jug below smashed into my jaw and slammed it up and wrenched my head back. The impact tossed me onto my back on the mat. Day after: Limited mobility in shoulder and wrist due to pain. Neck has limited range of motion due to pain. Stiff as hell. Abrasion under chin from impacting the hold. Bit through tongue (.1-.2cm?) and took out a small piece that I swallowed by accident. My jaw hurts like hell the next day and my right ear feels full and needs to pop. Like a bad earache. I have no idea if I was concussed. Really disoriented ex post facto, but managed to drive home before getting help cleaning up and just passing out. I don't really have the time to see a doctor and I'm not sure what they'd tell me other than "don't do that again." Definitely raises a question in my mind though: should gyms take into consideration existing routes when bolting up holds from the standpoint of safety? I think the fall wouldn't have been so bad if there wasn't the jug haul running right through it in such a way as to guarantee you smashing your face in them. BudManstrong did the problem before me and had nearly the same injury (clipped his face lightly). I should have taken that as a sign not to do it, but I'm clearly an idiot.
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Feb 11, 2016 14:48
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I've imagined falling and hitting my face like that a bunch of times (and have fallen off that exact route multiple times thanks to the awesome feet), so it was definitely scary when you said, "I think I bit off a piece of my tongue." Heal up, buddy.
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Feb 11, 2016 15:45
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gamera009 posted:Joining the injury train. Holy poo poo dude. Hope you can see a doc soon. And setters really should look at a completed wall for safety issues once they're done setting; I know there were a few problems that bumped up in difficulty after the problems around them were set because the other holds complicated the movement through the earlier problem.
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Feb 11, 2016 16:02
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Gym climbing, the worse climbing. I am always banging my arms on other routes that are super in the way. Heal up my man.
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Feb 11, 2016 16:43
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That sounds horrible gamera009. :[ Feel better soon.
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Feb 11, 2016 18:30
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Checking to see if you'd broken any teeth made me seriously consider climbing in a mouth guard. Cracking my jaw and loving up a bunch of teeth is my nightmare and you brought it into the climbing gym!
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Feb 11, 2016 19:11
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XIII posted:Checking to see if you'd broken any teeth made me seriously consider climbing in a mouth guard. Cracking my jaw and loving up a bunch of teeth is my nightmare and you brought it into the climbing gym! I know a really good dentist... 
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Feb 11, 2016 19:24
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spwrozek posted:I know a really good dentist... I mean, you've been in my mouth, so why not your girlfriend too?
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Feb 11, 2016 19:52
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What is a good second pair of (gym) shoes if my first pair are Scarpa Vapor Vs and I generally like them a lot? Also, what would be a good price for these recommended shoes? I got my Scarpas on sale from Amazon for about $75 last year.
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Feb 12, 2016 05:51
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Colour posted:What is a good second pair of (gym) shoes if my first pair are Scarpa Vapor Vs and I generally like them a lot? Also, what would be a good price for these recommended shoes? I got my Scarpas on sale from Amazon for about $75 last year. You could just buy the same pair again if you're into them. I have a pair of vapour v's that I like and use for multi pitch and sport in the past. They did me well on varied terrain and are super comfy if you have wide feet. However, I did upgrade to solutions for a more aggressive heel. That probably isn't necessary for you unless you're really looking to throw up some heel hooks
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Feb 12, 2016 08:48
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chami posted:Holy poo poo dude. Hope you can see a doc soon.
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Feb 12, 2016 12:22
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crazycello posted:You could just buy the same pair again if you're into them. I have a pair of vapour v's that I like and use for multi pitch and sport in the past. They did me well on varied terrain and are super comfy if you have wide feet. However, I did upgrade to solutions for a more aggressive heel. That probably isn't necessary for you unless you're really looking to throw up some heel hooks Can +1 on this, the only reason I'm not still using mine is that I bought them a little too large and they eventually got broken in enough that the toe got kind of sloppy. I still use them for warm up shoes and they're great.
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Feb 12, 2016 17:41
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Good setting should take into account injury prevention both from poo poo like that as well as ergonomic contact with holds and discouraging movement paths that lead to injury. Like if the only way to do a move involves putting your shoulder in a compromised position, or if that's how people are climbing your route, you should change it to promote joint health. Same idea as not placing large volumes in fall zones on lead walls, or having the hardest moves on the route in the transition to the top out, or setting cruxes above splits between pads. There's a setter at one of the gyms here who can not set a sloper/volume problem that doesn't result in terrible wrist position while under load and it sucks because otherwise fun routes lead to lots of tweaked wrists and poo poo, I don't try their routes any more because of it. Did you mention this to the staff? If they've had at least two injuries from the same route with the same cause you should give them a heads up so they can fix it. We've moved routes around and modified things based on feedback and always appreciated receiving it.
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Feb 13, 2016 00:17
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