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Qwijib0 posted:you can also just buy panels if you didn't want to hack the laptops. I didn't realize they were that cheap but I still like the idea of recycling them from local repair shops or getting lots of old or broken laptops off eBay. Might make for a nice side business if you put them in a decent wood frame.
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Feb 2, 2016 20:56
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InternetJunky posted:Thanks all for the responses about my table saw question. What kind of table saw do you have? Is it new or used? Light jobsite saws have lots of vibration and crappy fences that make life difficult for finish carpentry. Without seeing it, I really don't like the wobble explanation. If it is wobble, you should stop using that thing immediately, a wobbly saw is highly dangerous. Take off your blade, lay it down on a table, and check to make sure it's 100% flat. Even if it is, it's probably a crappy blade if it came with the saw. Freud sells a really great line of cheap blades under the Diablo name, one of those will give you great clean cuts. I'd recommend a combination blade for maximum versatility. Also, someone else mentioned it, but make sure you're measuring from the edge of the tooth, and cut on the other side of the line. Also check your stock for warping or bowing. Ideally you should be running your boards through a planer and jointer to make sure you have a proper finished edge, though honestly the stock edge with a table saw is sufficient for cowboy carpentry.
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Feb 2, 2016 21:30
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InternetJunky posted:Thanks all for the responses about my table saw question. Did you check against the kerf or from the body of the blade to the fence?
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Feb 2, 2016 21:52
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Does anyone know what this pipe in my basement is? It's like 2 pipes. We just bought this house. I hear water trickling in it at random times. I don't believe it's my sump.  Sorry if this is the wrong thread. I didn't see another good catch-all...
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Feb 2, 2016 23:52
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It seems like every time I use Gorilla Glue it expands well outside the surface I'm trying to glue. I try to use it sparingly like the label says, but it still oozes out enough to be unsightly. Is that just the nature of the stuff or what? Would using a little painters tape along the edges make any extra easier to remove?
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Feb 3, 2016 00:15
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stubblyhead posted:It seems like every time I use Gorilla Glue it expands well outside the surface I'm trying to glue. I try to use it sparingly like the label says, but it still oozes out enough to be unsightly. Is that just the nature of the stuff or what? Would using a little painters tape along the edges make any extra easier to remove? That's pretty much the nature of the stuff. There are other glues that dry more predictably. Perhaps you'd find one of them more suitable.
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Feb 3, 2016 00:32
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The key is getting an xacto and trimming off the stuff that comes out before it completely cures. It's a worthwhile trade off for me because gorilla glue has never failed me. Stuff is crazy strong.
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Feb 3, 2016 00:36
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Feenix posted:Does anyone know what this pipe in my basement is? It's like 2 pipes. We just bought this house. Picture is hard to see, what is on the other side of the wall? The two different sized pipes suggests it could be the high and low pressure lines for part of an AC system but that is really just a stab in the dark.
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Feb 3, 2016 00:53
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Crotch Fruit posted:Picture is hard to see, what is on the other side of the wall? The two different sized pipes suggests it could be the high and low pressure lines for part of an AC system but that is really just a stab in the dark. My driveway is above it. But basically it's below ground. I'm not 1000% sure but I don't think we have AC.
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Feb 3, 2016 01:09
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I have a moderately good handle on all things house-related. I've done plenty of repair work of all kinds, with the exception of natural gas. I'm careful and thorough, so I'm not worried about getting over my head. I've got a small full bathroom that I'd like to renovate. I've got a budget that can be high single digits. Where do you recommend I look at quality products in person? I'm near a major metropolitan area.
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Feb 3, 2016 02:47
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Zahgaegun posted:I have a moderately good handle on all things house-related. I've done plenty of repair work of all kinds, with the exception of natural gas. I'm careful and thorough, so I'm not worried about getting over my head. I really like Menards if you have one near you. I also would strongly recommend Ikea for sinks and fixtures. I bought a 10" deep sink and vanity from there that's just been awesome. The faucet is pretty high quality, and the pricing is about as cheap as you'll find. Toilets and lights and stuff along those lines I've just bought from home depot. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 04:35
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Zahgaegun posted:I have a moderately good handle on all things house-related. I've done plenty of repair work of all kinds, with the exception of natural gas. I'm careful and thorough, so I'm not worried about getting over my head. I hate to derail, but what's the story with your avatar/title? It's fascinated me ever since I joined the forums.
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Feb 3, 2016 05:39
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stubblyhead posted:It seems like every time I use Gorilla Glue it expands well outside the surface I'm trying to glue. I try to use it sparingly like the label says, but it still oozes out enough to be unsightly. Is that just the nature of the stuff or what? Would using a little painters tape along the edges make any extra easier to remove? Titebond brand is far superior when bonding pieces of wood without gaps. If the piece has large gaps, I would probably just use PL premium adhesive caulk. I've used gorilla glue on furniture, clamped it overnight and came back to find one of the metal wood clamps out of alignment.
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Feb 3, 2016 05:58
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I'm working on an electronics project and I want to be able to hold something that's hooked up to stationary , so I'm hoping for some sort of flexible cable. At a minimum it'd need to send a PWM signal to and from a servo and a signal from a 1.5V powered chip, but it'd be nice if I could send power to the servo as well (something on the order of 1-2 amps). At this point I'm planning on just using some regular stranded cable, but I was hoping there'd be something available that's less rigid, like a USB cable or something. Does anyone know of something like that?
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Feb 3, 2016 08:30
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stubblyhead posted:I hate to derail, but what's the story with your avatar/title? It's fascinated me ever since I joined the forums. It's pretty mundane really. Don't read it if you enjoy a little mystery. It's Pam from The Office (US). I don't recall why I picked her, I haven't seen the office in years and years. Anyways it's from an episode where she's going to New York City, the '212' area code. That's what she's flashing. I made the gif but the tiny forums avatar requirements meant that I had to squish the original waaaay down to make it fit - limited colors, just a few frames. I tinkered with it for a while until it fit, called it 'good enough', and uploaded. The 'VIV' doesn't mean anything, just something I came up with after watching and re-watching dozens of times while cutting it down to size.
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Feb 3, 2016 15:12
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Lemming posted:I'm working on an electronics project and I want to be able to hold something that's hooked up to stationary , so I'm hoping for some sort of flexible cable. At a minimum it'd need to send a PWM signal to and from a servo and a signal from a 1.5V powered chip, but it'd be nice if I could send power to the servo as well (something on the order of 1-2 amps). At this point I'm planning on just using some regular stranded cable, but I was hoping there'd be something available that's less rigid, like a USB cable or something. Does anyone know of something like that? Put the voltage and length you need into a voltage drop calculator and see what comes out. If you aren't driving the servo at its minimum voltage, and the cord is only a foot or two, and you're not driving it continuously, you can get away with 28ga wire.
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Feb 3, 2016 16:25
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2A over a 28 gauge cable is going to melt the wire insulation pretty quickly. USB cables that support 2 amp charging use a 24 gauge wire for the power line.
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Feb 3, 2016 18:08
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Captain Cool posted:Phones and tablets can charge over a USB cable at 2A, but I don't know how much voltage drop they can tolerate. Interesting addendum, I actually just measured this with a clamp style meter at work, and phones and tablets only draw maximum 150 milliamps during passive charging/light use, even though the wall chargers claim to be rated for 10-20x the actual current being drawn.
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Feb 3, 2016 19:53
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Zhentar posted:2A over a 28 gauge cable is going to melt the wire insulation pretty quickly. USB cables that support 2 amp charging use a 24 gauge wire for the power line. OSU_Matthew posted:Interesting addendum, I actually just measured this with a clamp style meter at work, and phones and tablets only draw maximum 150 milliamps during passive charging/light use, even though the wall chargers claim to be rated for 10-20x the actual current being drawn. Captain Cool fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 20:00
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Captain Cool posted:28ga can handle 1A if it's not too enclosed, and you can push that if the duty cycle is low. Tested full and empty devices from ipads, iPhones, blackberries, androids, galaxy tabs, etc because we're charging hundreds of them simultaneously, and ipads/androids consumed the most at .15 amps apiece. Granted, I forgot to test a USB 3 device like a galaxy S5, which probably draws a lot more, but yeah, my suspicion is that the charge controllers on the lithium batteries limit the charge to prevent thermal overload. Doesn't mean the usb cables/wall chargers can't provide more current, just that lithium battery mobile devices seem to be consistently limited to 150 milliamps. Granted, I only checked them every so often, I didn't monitor the full charging cycle, and it seems awfully low, but I checked it with the x1 and x10 windings on the line splitter and got pretty consistent results with my fluke multimeter 
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Feb 3, 2016 20:52
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That seems suspiciously low, and I question the accuracy of a clamp meter at such low currents. Just for example, an iPhone6 charges significantly faster when using a 1000mA iPad charger rather than the 500mA cube they ship with. If the phone were only drawing 100mA, there should be no difference.
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Feb 3, 2016 21:31
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eddiewalker posted:That seems suspiciously low, and I question the accuracy of a clamp meter at such low currents. There's a certain amount of physical autodetection that can occur to allow higher charging currents: https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5801 Devices can also negotiate for up to 500mA of current when they're logically enumerated. The iPad charger also boosts the voltage slightly, within spec, to increase power delivered.
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Feb 3, 2016 22:44
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150mA is what you get if USB3 enumeration denies any additional unit loads (USB2 should be 100mA, but I wouldn't be surprised if newer devices cheat that), and it is going to take a very, very, very long time to charge a powered on smart phone at that current. Any smart phone or tablet is going to draw at least 1 amp to charge if it thinks it can, and many will go up to 1.5A or 2A. And that's still not enough so there are several schemes for charging at 12v instead of 5.
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Feb 4, 2016 00:32
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OSU_Matthew posted:Interesting addendum, I actually just measured this with a clamp style meter at work, and phones and tablets only draw maximum 150 milliamps during passive charging/light use, even though the wall chargers claim to be rated for 10-20x the actual current being drawn. Did you measure from the AC side of the wall charger? The chargers' amperage refers to their maximum output current, with the specified output voltage (5 V in USB charging systems). As the charger changes the voltage, the current won't be the same either (think of it as a small power transformer). 2 amps * 5 volts = 10 watts = about 87 milliamps * 115 volts. If the charger draws 150 milliamps at 115 volts, that's 17.25 watts. If the charger had a perfect 100% efficiency, that would work out to 3.45 amps @ 5 volts, but the charger is not going to be perfectly efficient. If the charger gets warm in use, it's converting at least some part of its input current into waste heat. If a charger would draw 2 amps at 115 volts while putting out 2 amps at 5 volts, that would be a really inefficient charger: it would be drawing in 230 watts of AC power, while outputting just 10 watts of DC power. Since energy cannot just vanish, there would be 220 watts of power unaccounted for... it would probably be turning into waste heat, electromagnetic interference or both.
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Feb 4, 2016 00:55
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eddiewalker posted:That seems suspiciously low, and I question the accuracy of a clamp meter at such low currents. You're right, I completely agree... That really does seem suspiciously low. Out of curiosity, I just got out my kill-a-watt and line splitter, and plugged my galaxy s6 in to double check, and, sure enough, I'm getting .15 amps on both meters. I'll do more tests tomorrow with both instruments and more devices, and see if it changes over a longer charging period. I initially just measured the current from a charging cart of ~80 devices with the kill-a-watt, and found that we used somewhere in the neighborhood of 10.something kilowatt hours for a days worth of charging ~80-100 devices. Every time I checked the meter it was showing ~10-11 amps for the current. I'm probably missing something important, but off the cuff math seems to roughly check out... Devices finished charging and were being swapped out occasionally, so it's a very rough estimate, based on what I remember, because I was surprised that it only cost a dollar's worth of electricity to charge that many devices for a day (assuming 10¢ a kilowatt hour). Is there something obvious I'm missing perhaps? e, nvm, just read this: telcoM posted:Did you measure from the AC side of the wall charger? Derp, thanks! That's exactly it, I'm just measuring from the AC side and ignoring the DC output calculations, because we're mainly just concerned with tripping the breakers charging so many devices simultaneously. That definitely makes me feel a lot better about my measurements 
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 03:20
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"Smart" devices which charge over USB tend to be really obnoxiously picky about handshaking with the USB charging device. I think it is equally the chargers fault. I bought the finest, cheapest, Chinaest USB volt/amp meter: http://smile.amazon.com/Charger-Voltage-Current-Battery-Detector/dp/B013JGOZ3E/ From there I tried out various combinations of: devices: iphone5, galaxy S3, ipad mini (who knows) cables: Apple Official, Samsung Official, Monoprice Mysteries, random one I found in a drawer charger: Samsung Official 1A, Samsung Official 2A, Apple 1A, Apple 2A, GoPro cigarette lighter What it basically came down to was regardless of cable the Apple+Apple or Samsung+Samsung were the only ones which drew more than 500mA @ 5V. Otherwise they drew 1A (phones) 2A (ipad) when hooked up to their matched brands. Then it broke.
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Feb 4, 2016 03:51
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I think I was a bit unclear in my wording; I wasn't thinking of using a USB cable, I meant that I'd like it if there was something I could use that had the flexibility of something like a USB cable. It sounds like the 28 gauge stranded wire I have would work, but it's still pretty rigid and tries to hold its shape when moving around, so it still tugs at whatever it's connected to even when there's a decent amount of slack. I could still use it, but I was hoping there was something less rigid.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:37
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Zahgaegun posted:I have a moderately good handle on all things house-related. I've done plenty of repair work of all kinds, with the exception of natural gas. I'm careful and thorough, so I'm not worried about getting over my head. One thing that I have bought at IKEA that is of consistently high quality: Faucets. They have a good selection of bathroom sink faucets. They're heavy, usually solid brass, good chrome; the sink faucet's eleven years old & still functions as new. Can't speak for their tub/shower stuff...but I went with Moen on a single-lever setup when I remodeled my bathroom. I couldn't talk my wife into ditching the cast-iron tub for a large walk-in unit, but drat, I tried.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:48
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Lemming posted:I think I was a bit unclear in my wording; I wasn't thinking of using a USB cable, I meant that I'd like it if there was something I could use that had the flexibility of something like a USB cable.
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Feb 4, 2016 05:32
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Captain Cool posted:If you want something that's just like a USB cable, why not use a USB cable? I was wondering this myself. If you like the connector for your project, use the connector, if you don't, cut it off.
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Feb 4, 2016 05:36
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I wanted to avoid using a USB cable because I didn't want to use the USB connector and hoped there was a less hacky way to get a flexible cable than cannibalizing a USB cable. I could do it, but I was hoping there was something I could buy and use that I could get a roll of or something.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:38
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I don't know offhand if it'll meet the power requirements you have, but why not telephone or Ethernet cable? I wouldn't consider either of those to be especially rigid.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:52
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H110Hawk posted:"Smart" devices which charge over USB tend to be really obnoxiously picky about handshaking with the USB charging device. I think it is equally the chargers fault. I bought the finest, cheapest, Chinaest USB volt/amp meter: In 2011, I had a Samsung Galaxy Tab 7 plus and it simply did not charge with a charger brick that was not from Samsung. It also used Samsung's 30pin - looks like apple but not apple connector and cable so I know I was using a samsung cable with the tablet, but it refused to work with a non Samsung brick. At the time, there was a rumor that Samsung was using ID chips to deter unofficial products. I think it possible that the OEMs you tested could doing something to allow phones to recognize an OEM charger, it could be some sort of ID chip, which could be as simple as providing the phone a slightly different voltage, in the name of "protecting
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Feb 4, 2016 15:25
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Is there a good place to look for examples of what home renovation projects cost? My wife and I are looking into buying an older house and completely refinishing basically everything. This may include things like new windows, roof, residing, painting, new trim, flooring, kitchen remodeling, installing a new bath, and maybe knocking down a wall or two in the process. Obviously the exact cost for each of these things is going to vary greatly based on the specific house, location, and how fancy we want to get with each part of the renovation. It would be great if there was some sort or website/etc... that showed original houses, the post-renovation finished project, along with a list/pictures of what all was done and how much each thing cost. This would definitely help us get a better handle on how much we should budget if we decide to buy a fixer upper.
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Feb 4, 2016 15:29
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Crotch Fruit posted:In 2011, I had a Samsung Galaxy Tab 7 plus and it simply did not charge with a charger brick that was not from Samsung. It also used Samsung's 30pin - looks like apple but not apple connector and cable so I know I was using a samsung cable with the tablet, but it refused to work with a non Samsung brick. At the time, there was a rumor that Samsung was using ID chips to deter unofficial products. Android bootloader connectors are essentially regular connectors with a resistor between two pins, and when the device boots up and detects a specific voltage between two pins it'll enter a firmware loading mode. I don't know for sure, but my assumption is that's how certain devices "know" you're using an oem charger. Would explain why a lot of knockoff third party lightning connectors didn't work when the iPhone 5 first came out--manufacturers rushing to have something available day one based their first runs on form factor without having oem cables to dissect and copy. Mr Executive posted:Is there a good place to look for examples of what home renovation projects cost? My wife and I are looking into buying an older house and completely refinishing basically everything. This may include things like new windows, roof, residing, painting, new trim, flooring, kitchen remodeling, installing a new bath, and maybe knocking down a wall or two in the process. According to documents the previous owners left behind, they spent $8,000 on a new bath (that's just the tub/shower alone). They also spent several thousand on asbestos removal for the air ducts. Ten thousand on a new furnace. No idea on the roof. But, after twenty odd years of living in the house, they only had five thousand in equity built up because of all these expenses. You'd probably be further ahead to buy a decent house that can use a few diy projects to customize, learn how to do things there. Stuff like swapping toilets, sinks, light fixtures, etc are easy and good stuff to learn on. Plus you're settled somewhere liveable and can tackle things one at a time. Normal homes are a bottomless money pit. Fixer upper homes are even more of a money pit, just ask the house buying thread. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 15:45
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Mr Executive posted:Is there a good place to look for examples of what home renovation projects cost? My wife and I are looking into buying an older house and completely refinishing basically everything. This may include things like new windows, roof, residing, painting, new trim, flooring, kitchen remodeling, installing a new bath, and maybe knocking down a wall or two in the process. Apartment therapy's project section has project diaries that give full breakdowns of cost, time and everything else. Lot's of DIY bloggers try to do the same with varying results.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:20
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stubblyhead posted:I don't know offhand if it'll meet the power requirements you have, but why not telephone or Ethernet cable? I wouldn't consider either of those to be especially rigid. Depending on your conductor requirements you could look at audio cable as well. It's designed to be run and coiled repeatedly.
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Feb 4, 2016 16:48
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Apartment therapy's project section has project diaries that give full breakdowns of cost, time and everything else. Lot's of DIY bloggers try to do the same with varying results. Double any breakdown you see for your own planning purposes.
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Feb 4, 2016 17:16
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https://www.homeadvisor.com seems to give pretty decent ballpark estimates of project costs (assuming you're hiring contractors to do it).
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Feb 4, 2016 17:34
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Lemming posted:I wanted to avoid using a USB cable because I didn't want to use the USB connector and hoped there was a less hacky way to get a flexible cable than cannibalizing a USB cable. I could do it, but I was hoping there was something I could buy and use that I could get a roll of or something.
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Feb 4, 2016 18:44
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