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Adult Sword Owner posted:I'll check that out, thanks TestDisk might be able to restore the partitions.
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Jan 21, 2016 18:07
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Recently, due to a Variety Of Issues, it's become possible that I will lose some level of fine motor control. I'm generally fine with typing, but it's become increasingly difficult to use the mouse to click smaller objects, like the x to close a tab in a browser. I got a Razer Taipan mouse a long time ago, and I've been generally happy with it. Since the fine motor control issues started, I've discovered the sensitivity clutch button, and it's been very helpful. As long as I press the mouse button set to sensitivity clutch, the sensitivity goes down to a (custom set) significantly lower level. So, general usage, I can use the mouse normally, but if I have to click something small, I can just hold the mouse button, boom, super easy to hit anything. The problem is that, whenever I change the DPI in any way, an ugly green bar appears in the lower left hand of the screen. It's KINDA ANNOYING, and tech support says that there's no way to get rid of the DPI indicator. Is there a SECRET way to do this? Or, barring that, is there another reasonably good mouse that can do something like sensitivity clutch, but doesn't have the large green ugly indicator? Or, barring that, is there something I can use on any given mouse to do the same thing?
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Jan 21, 2016 19:57
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Gharbad the Weak posted:Recently, due to a Variety Of Issues, it's become possible that I will lose some level of fine motor control. I'm generally fine with typing, but it's become increasingly difficult to use the mouse to click smaller objects, like the x to close a tab in a browser.
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Jan 21, 2016 20:40
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So I've got a 2010 MacBook and I'm started to get a lot of slowdown when using the newer MS Office apps that work has upgraded to. My hard drive is also almost full, about 80gig of the 250 is music and photos, if I transfer these to an external hard drive will I notice any improvement in the general running of the computer or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one? I'm asking here because theres plenty of guides about how to do it but nothing on actually why I should bother with all this. Any advice?
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Jan 22, 2016 18:56
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Gharbad the Weak posted:Recently, due to a Variety Of Issues, it's become possible that I will lose some level of fine motor control. I'm generally fine with typing, but it's become increasingly difficult to use the mouse to click smaller objects, like the x to close a tab in a browser. An alternative approach could be a foot pedal to simulate mouse clicks.
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Jan 22, 2016 19:34
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Well, the issue isn't clicking, it's the small, precise movement to bring the cursor to smaller objects on screen.
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Jan 22, 2016 20:19
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Gharbad the Weak posted:Recently, due to a Variety Of Issues, it's become possible that I will lose some level of fine motor control. I'm generally fine with typing, but it's become increasingly difficult to use the mouse to click smaller objects, like the x to close a tab in a browser. It is pretty common for a 'gaming' mouse to have those DPI buttons for getting those sick 360noscope headshots. Any of them with a DPI toggle option should work for you. I've got a Logitech 518 at work that has them next to the wheel, and they seem to work fine without popping up any obnoxious UI overlays.
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Jan 22, 2016 22:05
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Gharbad the Weak posted:Well, the issue isn't clicking, it's the small, precise movement to bring the cursor to smaller objects on screen. I know absolutely nothing about your situation, but if it's precise movement maybe you would benefit from a full trackball set to a low sensitivity? I just bought one of these  and I feel like it's easier to be more precise then the mouth with my Arthritis.
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Jan 22, 2016 22:24
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Turtlicious posted:I know absolutely nothing about your situation, but if it's precise movement maybe you would benefit from a full trackball set to a low sensitivity? Do they have anything for that lisp?
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Jan 22, 2016 23:44
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Weavered posted:So I've got a 2010 MacBook and I'm started to get a lot of slowdown when using the newer MS Office apps that work has upgraded to. My hard drive is also almost full, about 80gig of the 250 is music and photos, if I transfer these to an external hard drive will I notice any improvement in the general running of the computer or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one? I'm asking here because theres plenty of guides about how to do it but nothing on actually why I should bother with all this. Moving contents off your hard drive will have zero impact on the performance of the machine. If you have a mechanical drive, replacing it with a new SSD will make a world of difference however.
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Jan 23, 2016 00:30
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I don't want to pay to rent a modem/router from Comcast anymore. The Networking thread seems to be about stuff that's about six levels above that. What's by best price/performance option for both a combined modem and router and separate ones?
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Jan 23, 2016 17:53
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Schiavona posted:I don't want to pay to rent a modem/router from Comcast anymore. The Networking thread seems to be about stuff that's about six levels above that. What's by best price/performance option for both a combined modem and router and separate ones? IMO, you'll always be better off getting a modem and a separate consumer router. Most of it depends on your speed and what you want. The Motorola SB6141 is a popular choice and will handle all but the fastest speeds. I'm using an Arris CM820A and have had 0 issues from it. Arris bought Motorola so the new stuff is basically the same now. If you're doing higher level speeds Arris/Moto SB6183 is a fine choice. As for routers, the Archer C7 or C9 are good choices, you can't go wrong with the ASUS AC66U. I think Netgear's Nighthawk routers are really good too, but I swore off Netgear a while ago, so I can't comment. If you don't want to deal with separate units and want a full combo unit, the SBG6580 (tops out at G) is the gateway version of the 6141, ans the SBG900AC (does support AC) is a good one for the faster speeds. I'm actually about to sell off my Archer C8, if you're interested.
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Jan 23, 2016 19:08
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Sorry to jump in but is there a reason the C7 is always recommended but not the C5? They seem identical but the C5 is $50 cheaper (at least where I am) and slightly newer.
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Jan 23, 2016 20:53
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Red_Fred posted:Sorry to jump in but is there a reason the C7 is always recommended but not the C5? They seem identical but the C5 is $50 cheaper (at least where I am) and slightly newer. Comes down to speed. The C7 is 50% faster than the C5. If you don't need the C7 Wifi speeds, a C5 is fine.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:12
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Gothmog1065 posted:Comes down to speed. The C7 is 50% faster than the C5. If you don't need the C7 Wifi speeds, a C5 is fine.
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Jan 26, 2016 00:11
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I've got a tiny studio apartment and I'm the only person in it. The only WiFi device is my 5x and friends laptops and phones from time to time so I think the C5 will be fine. 
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Jan 26, 2016 02:41
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We're considering a NAS setup for backing up our home computer's hard drives- I'm looking at the Synology DS214. Is there any way to stream video content from my NAS to my TV? Because we currently use a WD LiveHub for this purpose, but it's dying and is on its last legs. It'd be great if there was any sort of way to stream from the NAS to our TV in some sort of easy way. We don't own any videogame consoles, which I understand might complicate things.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jan 27, 2016 |
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Jan 27, 2016 05:12
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Is sudden flickering in a ~5 year old LCD monitor a sign that it's failing?
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Jan 27, 2016 10:55
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dis astranagant posted:Is sudden flickering in a ~5 year old LCD monitor a sign that it's failing? Maybe, since it could be the caps going bad or the backlight, but the cable is the first thing to check.
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Jan 27, 2016 10:58
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My PC build runs really well, but Windows Vista support ends in 2017. So I'll get a new Windows this year, Before installing it I want to do any major hardware upgrades I might want in the future before that to ensure the install is fresh. Currently I have a AMD Athlon II X4 2.9 GHz and my motherboard is a ASUS M4A77TD that supports Phenom II and Athlon II. I'd like to buy a Phenom II X4 or X6 at 3.2 Ghz or more, the maximum power CPUs this motherboard supports. That would cost about $60-90 used. And of course I'll sell the AMD Athlon II X4 on eBay too, maybe worth at least $20. I'm confident that my PC as-is can handle Win 7-10 without problems, but would 0.3 faster speed and 2 extra cores feel any faster than what I have now? Would it be worth a risky CPU replacement operation and the cost? Schiavona posted:I don't want to pay to rent a modem/router from Comcast anymore. The Networking thread seems to be about stuff that's about six levels above that. What's by best price/performance option for both a combined modem and router and separate ones? They're being sued for this chicanery, but after you upgrade watch out for crap like this. Comcast has a list of devices they say they support. http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/ Having one might help your inevitable support calls go a bit better, so look for ones with features you want. The first time I bought a modem I simply bought the same model Comcast had given me. When I upgraded, I looked at the list and compared reviews, prices, and brand reputation to find the cheapest, best one. I have no fear of used modems, but I recommend it only if the savings are significant compared to a NIB one.
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Jan 28, 2016 20:12
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Ema Nymton posted:My PC build runs really well, but Windows Vista support ends in 2017. So I'll get a new Windows this year, Before installing it I want to do any major hardware upgrades I might want in the future before that to ensure the install is fresh. Do not purchase a new AMD chip. Either keep your hardware as is, or buy a low end Intel chip (i3 or even Pentium) and motherboard and get significantly improved performance. You'd just be wasting your money buying a 7 year old processor for barely any improvement.
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Jan 28, 2016 21:06
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Moving to a slightly faster X4 CPU is a complete waste of time. A X6, assuming you can find one for a non-crazy price, is only slightly better. Honestly you're better off selling it all and going to an Intel combo instead.
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Jan 28, 2016 21:07
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Ema Nymton posted:My PC build runs really well, but Windows Vista support ends in 2017. So I'll get a new Windows this year, Before installing it I want to do any major hardware upgrades I might want in the future before that to ensure the install is fresh. Switch to intel if you plan on making any kind of hardware upgrade. You're basically at the end of the line with AMD.
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Jan 28, 2016 23:40
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 I thought that might be the case. What's worse is that I'm an AMD stockholder.I bought some shares in AMD stock when it fell to $5 some years ago, hoping that "Bulldozer" would bring the price back up. Today they're worth 2 bucks.  
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Jan 29, 2016 00:50
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Rexxed posted:Maybe, since it could be the caps going bad or the backlight, but the cable is the first thing to check. It's dead. Spent half an hour fighting with the split second it stays on to get things switched back to my integrated video. RIP old-rear end monitor, hello older-rear end CRT til a replacement comes in.
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Jan 31, 2016 03:15
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I want a media drive to store movies and poo poo on. I thought about getting a 4gb WD Blue but I don't know if I trust the reliability. Will a WD Red NAS HD work fine in a desktop? Or should I just do as I always have and bite the bullet and buy a black again? (Have two 1tb blacks of different models)
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Feb 1, 2016 02:39
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Bum the Sad posted:I want a media drive to store movies and poo poo on. I thought about getting a 4gb WD Blue but I don't know if I trust the reliability. Will a WD Red NAS HD work fine in a desktop? Or should I just do as I always have and bite the bullet and buy a black again? (Have two 1tb blacks of different models)
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Feb 1, 2016 03:10
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Ok thanks for that I was about to buy a 2Tb black thinking it was better for games and stuff. I'll buy a blue then. Is there any easy way of transferring everything from my current 1TB drive to the new one or will I have to buy something?
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Feb 1, 2016 11:50
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RBX posted:Ok thanks for that I was about to buy a 2Tb black thinking it was better for games and stuff. I'll buy a blue then. Is there any easy way of transferring everything from my current 1TB drive to the new one or will I have to buy something? A Black probably would be better for playing games off of, it's just not going to be more reliable for data, as all models have the same reliability. But if you need more space for games in a desktop, consider buying a large SSD to put games on and keeping your platter drive for other stuff. You can get a 500 GB Samsung 850 Evo SSD for $155 these days.
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Feb 1, 2016 16:01
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melon cat posted:We're considering a NAS setup for backing up our home computer's hard drives- I'm looking at the Synology DS214. Is there any way to stream video content from my NAS to my TV? Because we currently use a WD LiveHub for this purpose, but it's dying and is on its last legs. It'd be great if there was any sort of way to stream from the NAS to our TV in some sort of easy way. We don't own any videogame consoles, which I understand might complicate things. The WD LiveHub should be able to connect to the NAS through your network and stream media from it. You just configure network shares on the NAS. Not sure the LiveHub is a great all around option for this, but afaik it works. My suggestion would be FireTV + Kodi setup with NFS shares to access the content. I don't know the specifics of the livehub, but I am guessing it uses a DLNA server and transcodes media from your PC or built in HDD which can result in quality loss where Kodi should stream items in pretty much any format natively. thebushcommander fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Feb 2, 2016 |
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Feb 2, 2016 19:30
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RBX posted:Ok thanks for that I was about to buy a 2Tb black thinking it was better for games and stuff. I'll buy a blue then. Is there any easy way of transferring everything from my current 1TB drive to the new one or will I have to buy something? http://supportdownloads.wdc.com/downloads.aspx?p=119&lang=en Use that to clone from one drive to another. Also don't get the Red drives unless they're going into a NAS. They are identical hardware wise, the only difference is firmware changes.
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Feb 2, 2016 21:06
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This is a really weird situation, but I'd appreciate any help. Due to some really stupid decisions in the ancient past, our in-house software is hardcoded to only use the HP LaserJet 4 driver and this won't be changed any time soon. One of our teams recently reorganized so that all of their members are now working remotely, from home offices etc. in the field ,but the printers they bought aren't compatible with that driver. Their current workaround is to print to a compatible printer at our main office, have someone scan that document and then email it to them as a PDF; aside from being a really stupid workflow, they are frequently dealing with sensitive information and/or client financial data, so we're looking for a better solution. Are there any color HP MFPs that are compatible with the LaserJet 4 driver specifically (even for basic printing)? My idea would be to setup two printer objects, one using the universal print driver and one using the LaserJet 4 driver, that way they could have multifunction capabilities in general and also print from our software when necessary.
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Feb 3, 2016 23:43
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plainswalker75 posted:This is a really weird situation, but I'd appreciate any help. Due to some really stupid decisions in the ancient past, our in-house software is hardcoded to only use the HP LaserJet 4 driver and this won't be changed any time soon. ... Also, you have to do some seriously horrifying poo poo to actually make yourself dependent on a specific printer driver, so also consider having your developer team violently reeducated in the ways of printing.
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Feb 4, 2016 23:24
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Can anyone recommend an adapter to turn an old ide drive into an external? I had one ages ago that had an unreliable power supply, and all the ones I'm looking at now have reviews that make the power supplies sound downright dangerous.
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Feb 4, 2016 23:43
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Davoren posted:Can anyone recommend an adapter to turn an old ide drive into an external? I had one ages ago that had an unreliable power supply, and all the ones I'm looking at now have reviews that make the power supplies sound downright dangerous. I have run one of these for years 24/7 on my WHS box as a backup device, and it's both very well made and seems to have a beefy power supply with good quality cabling. It's not cheap, though. Vantec NexStar 3 3.5" IDE to USB 2.0 External Hard Drive Enclosure (Midnight Blue) - Model NST-360U2-BL http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-145-132
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Feb 5, 2016 00:49
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I'll second vantec as being one of the better hdd enclosure manufacturers. Having no problems with two of them
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Feb 5, 2016 00:51
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Davoren posted:Can anyone recommend an adapter to turn an old ide drive into an external? I had one ages ago that had an unreliable power supply, and all the ones I'm looking at now have reviews that make the power supplies sound downright dangerous. I really like my vantec 2.5" sata dock. I used to have a 3.5" ide but it was always kinda big and heavy and required a power brick, I simply didn't feel like it was a good option for portable bulk storage. If you just need to read data from old drives without cracking open your case every time I would get a ide/usb dock instead. In addition, I hoard old hardware and I don't even have any ide drives left. I am impressed you have a living ide drive, I think putting it in an enclosure and submitting it to bumps as your carry it is a sure way to kill the old hard drive.
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Feb 5, 2016 02:52
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Crotch Fruit posted:I really like my vantec 2.5" sata dock. I used to have a 3.5" ide but it was always kinda big and heavy and required a power brick, I simply didn't feel like it was a good option for portable bulk storage. If you just need to read data from old drives without cracking open your case every time I would get a ide/usb dock instead. I have a box full of working 200GB or so working ide drives. I have a 245MB Seagate that still works fine too, so I wouldn't consider it that surprising.
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Feb 5, 2016 11:43
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I'm purely interested in anything suitable for reading data from old drives, be that a dock or cable or box, thanks for the vantec recommendation, I'll check them out.
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Feb 5, 2016 12:24
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Recommendations on a decent 450-500W power supply? Supply in my media center gave up the ghost. I've swapped in a working unit, but its older and I don't trust it to last long. I don't need high wattage, but I don't mind paying for quality. I know XFX, Seasonic, etc. are usually good, just wondered if anyone else has stepped up their game (or if any of the kings are bad now).
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Feb 5, 2016 17:04
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