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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Last I checked I had a coupon for a Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack for like $60. Cool; that works for me. I'll see if I can track down some coupons
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Mar 21, 2016 13:24
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Can some one recommend me a good tire inflator with an integrated pressure gauge? Additional requirement, my Miata wheels have very shallow metal valve stems so I can't have anything big on the gland end like these. http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Air-Chuck-Tire-Inflator/dp/B00NEU48OM
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Mar 21, 2016 14:24
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My Viair tire inflator has been a champ so far. I always carry it in the trunk for emergency tire plugotomies but I also use it regularly for autox. Inflates quickly, has a pretty decent pressure gauge, and seems to be built very well. They even have my pump on air tank duty on some models. The only downside is the unit gets very hot when inflating tires, you have to be very careful where you hold it afterwards. The stem connector is a threaded piece. Very low profile.
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Mar 21, 2016 16:11
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InitialDave posted:Also seconding the use of cunifer/cupro-nickel lines rather than steel. So I'll ask the obvious question: how does "easier to deal with" not translate directly to "easier to pinch/bend/dent/pierce accidentally"?
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Mar 21, 2016 16:18
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Along the lines of tire inflation- Is needing to inflate tires at home a good excuse to buy a full on air-compressor and tire inflation attachment? I don't currently own any air tools and recently got the Makita impact wrench which is on batteries, so I'm not sure when I would buy air tools in the future as a shade tree mechanic.
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Mar 21, 2016 16:46
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^^^ in my opinion for a home compressor to be useful you need at least 5-10 CFM at 90PSI to run the most handy tools like a die grinder. So unless you're going big I don't see a lot of value. My 20 gallon compressor can hardly run a 3/8 impact well enough to remove 4 lugs in one duty cycle. I should have been more specific. I'm just looking for the chuck on the end of an air line. I typically bring a tank or a 120v compressor to events. Mostly because a 12v compressor sucks rear end for taking rallycross tires to 40 PSI. Sadi fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Mar 21, 2016 |
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Mar 21, 2016 16:54
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So I'd be better off getting the $50 VIAIR and using it on AC power than getting something like this for 3x the price that would only be useful for inflating tires and brad nailing? http://www.amazon.com/Makita-AC001-Compact-Air-Compressor/dp/B00SCSBPQA My garage is not big enough to house a huge compressor, sadly.
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Mar 21, 2016 17:15
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Vulcan posted:So I'd be better off getting the $50 VIAIR and using it on AC power than getting something like this for 3x the price that would only be useful for inflating tires and brad nailing? I own this compressor, and am entirely pleased with it's performance: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/8-gal-2-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-68740.html It's good for running the occasional brad nailer, air hammer, air impact, crew served NERF gun, etc. Wildly loud, but the price point is right.
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Mar 21, 2016 17:25
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I have a one gallon senco that I use for filling tires and running a pin nailer. You'd never be able to run tools with it, but it's quiet (for an air compressor), tiny, and cheap.
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Mar 21, 2016 17:44
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Sadi posted:^^^ in my opinion for a home compressor to be useful you need at least 5-10 CFM at 90PSI to run the most handy tools like a die grinder. So unless you're going big I don't see a lot of value. My 20 gallon compressor can hardly run a 3/8 impact well enough to remove 4 lugs in one duty cycle. Is this something along the lines of what you want? http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pressure-Rite-Anti-Air-Loss-Connector/dp/B000FIAVKG/ It's not a quick connect, but you can easily adapt to make it one.
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Mar 21, 2016 18:03
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Splizwarf posted:So I'll ask the obvious question: how does "easier to deal with" not translate directly to "easier to pinch/bend/dent/pierce accidentally"?
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Mar 21, 2016 18:21
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Safety Dance posted:I own this compressor, and am entirely pleased with it's performance: I can also vouch for this compressor. Unless you want to run a die grinder or are on a pit crew (the compressor should be caught up by the time you've removed a wheel and moved to the next one) most shadetree mechanics don't need anything bigger. However, this is the Tools thread in the automotive forums so many people in here aren't normal shadetree mechanics. Couple this with how air compressors are like dicks (most guys are happy with what they have, but wish it was just a little bit bigger) and you end up with a bunch of recommendations that you can hardly fill your tires with anything less than a 3-phase 100+ gallon shop compressor. edit: Is there such a thing as a crew served NERF gun, because now I want one.
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Mar 21, 2016 19:13
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Walked posted:Cool; that works for me. I'll see if I can track down some coupons For a home garage I would go to Costco and check out whatever floor jack they have in stock. I have the HF aluminum jack and although it works it never inspires much confidence when I use it. If you're lifting anything moderately heavy (>3000 lbs total weight) even from just a corner the jack will strain and sometimes even bend its wheels into the floor. From what I hear Costco's jack is much, much nicer and heavy duty but significantly heavier (doesn't matter for a home garage).
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Mar 21, 2016 19:20
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Cat Hatter posted:edit: Is there such a thing as a crew served NERF gun, because now I want one. Not strictly crew served, but I put this together for a Maker Faire and had people climb into my Jeep to shoot it:  http://sshchicago.org/?p=735
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Mar 21, 2016 19:27
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um excuse me posted:Is this something along the lines of what you want? Something like this is more what I was looking for. I was just looking for one like this that people here liked. Otherwise ill just pick this one up, its cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP6000-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458614121&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+inflator
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Mar 22, 2016 03:36
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I had the CH one for years, the locking end on the tire end is kinda poo poo and the gauge was consistently off by a couple PSI. I bought one of these but without the stainless hose and it is loving awesome.
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Mar 22, 2016 03:48
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The CH is garbage. The one I have had a sticky valve from day 1.
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Mar 22, 2016 03:53
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CH one looks much like the HF one I have. Gauge on that is also off and the locking connector sucks. I still use it but have a nicer electric pressure gauge instead.
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Mar 22, 2016 14:23
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Cat Hatter posted:air compressors are like dicks (most guys are happy with what they have, but wish it was just a little bit bigger) and nobody's happy with a pancake
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Mar 22, 2016 16:12
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Is Grainger always kind of intimidating and unaccommodating to small orders? I'd never been in before. It wasn't really busy, but I couldn't get anyone to give me the time of day, just got pointed to a yellowpage-sized catalog back in the corner and was told to come back with an order.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:41
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The one time I went to a Grainger store it was just to pick up something I had ordered online. Their showroom/retail area was really small and it felt like they were all about just fulfilling orders and not browsing around like a big box hardware store.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:59
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eddiewalker posted:Is Grainger always kind of intimidating and unaccommodating to small orders? I'd never been in before. It wasn't really busy, but I couldn't get anyone to give me the time of day, just got pointed to a yellowpage-sized catalog back in the corner and was told to come back with an order. Yes. They're an industrial supplier and don't give two shits about off-the-street orders, or small accounts. Sucks, but that's the way it is. Fastenal is more expensive, but has legit retail showrooms, and is more friendly.
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Mar 22, 2016 20:48
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sharkytm posted:and is more friendly. Maybe yours is. The two by me will tell you to gently caress right off for using the dreaded word "metric".
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Mar 22, 2016 22:02
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I like our local Fastenal stores but I wouldn't sign for an order they packaged without counting first.
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Mar 22, 2016 22:39
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Splizwarf posted:So I'll ask the obvious question: how does "easier to deal with" not translate directly to "easier to pinch/bend/dent/pierce accidentally"? InitialDave posted:The wall thickness of brake line is pretty high for its diameter, so there's not a huge risk of kinking it unless you're being quite rough. As long as you use an actual forming tool rather than trying to bend it freehand, it shouldn't be a big issue. I've freehand bent steel brake line (4.75mm/3/16") and while it can be done, it's sometimes hard to get a tight bend radius without kinking. cunifer on the other hand is a dream, it just bends like it was meant to, even using your thumbs. Mechanical damage to brake lines... if something gets that far, you're hosed either way, so I would concentrate on keeping it away from road debris and such. Also cunifer doesn't rust or corrode significantly and flares so, so much easier and nicer than steel line. Using cunifer and an inline flaring tool like the OEM 24364 is basically godmode for brake line work. Still gotta remember to put the loving flare nut over the line before flaring it though.
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Mar 22, 2016 22:46
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Hell ya picked up this bad boy for absolutely free today: Found it just chillin on top of my catalytic converter, where it probably had been since I changed an O2 sensor, oh say three years ago, and was the source of an intermittent rattle that disappeared completely everytime I went looking for it. 
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Mar 22, 2016 22:49
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I hate it when I do that to myself  Put a lovely cheap hose clamp around the base of it after putting it on the sensor if it feels like the sensor's in tight enough that the wrench will spread open and round it off. It'll help a bit.
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Mar 22, 2016 22:56
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kastein posted:I've freehand bent steel brake line (4.75mm/3/16") and while it can be done, it's sometimes hard to get a tight bend radius without kinking. cunifer on the other hand is a dream, it just bends like it was meant to, even using your thumbs.
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Mar 22, 2016 23:37
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I opened the hood of a Toyota Sienna at work the other day, and found a coworker's Streamlight Stinger on the undertray. We looked in the history - found he did a wheel bearing on the car... more than a year ago. The flashlight even turned on!
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Mar 23, 2016 01:30
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Holy gently caress BREAKING NEWS I love my 22 dollar campbell hausfeld TL0537 air powered greasegun. Best greasegun ever. I've hated every greasegun I have ever owned until this one. You do have to buy your own grease hose and zerk fitting. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/campbell-hausfeld-air-operated-grease-gun e: ID, somehow I completely missed your point on that, thanks for clarifying. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 02:21
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kastein posted:I've freehand bent steel brake line (4.75mm/3/16") and while it can be done, it's sometimes hard to get a tight bend radius without kinking. cunifer on the other hand is a dream, it just bends like it was meant to, even using your thumbs. I was wondering more about hardlines tucked around the engine bay versus errant wrenches or ratchets.
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Mar 23, 2016 02:32
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kastein posted:Holy gently caress I bought a highly rated manual one off of amazon and it's a piece of poo poo that has leaked grease all over the floor. I don't know if it's the grease I'm using (Mobil 1 red something something) but that poo poo is leaking out of every goddamn fitting.
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Mar 23, 2016 13:22
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Splizwarf posted:I was wondering more about hardlines tucked around the engine bay versus errant wrenches or ratchets.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:43
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Splizwarf posted:I was wondering more about hardlines tucked around the engine bay versus errant wrenches or ratchets. I've never damaged one significantly, even slamming a 500lb inline 6 around trying to get it mated to the bellhousing. I was kinda surprised about that.
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Mar 23, 2016 23:49
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kastein posted:I've never damaged one significantly, even slamming a 500lb inline 6 around trying to get it mated to the bellhousing. I was kinda surprised about that. This is precisely the shenanigans extreme I was worrying about, thanks. Stuff sounds cool and I'll need some soon.
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Mar 24, 2016 02:08
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I mean if you score a direct hard hit it is gonna suffer, but so will steel. In either case you shouldn't have done that  Cunifer was actually OEM on some late 70s volvos IIRC and most of the survivors still have original brake lines. Good enough for me. e: '76 and later volvos. http://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/hydraulic_brake_tube.html kastein fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 24, 2016 |
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Mar 24, 2016 02:50
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It's an '89 Volvo so yup! Lot less worried now.
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Mar 24, 2016 04:00
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Grease gun chat: I have a Westward brand one for work. That is Grainger's house brand. Its the black one not the blue one, the blue is different and lovely. Its had probably 30 tubes of grease through it so far and has never failed me. I have a rag tied around the end of the plunger rod to absorb any small leaks of oil and also to have a rag handy to wipe up after i grease a fitting. I dont know how much it cost but it cant be too much.
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Mar 24, 2016 04:01
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I keep a nitrile glove over the tip of mine, like a greasegun condom. That, and I keep it wrapped in a shop towel. I hate grease guns, but they're a necessary evil.
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Mar 24, 2016 04:26
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This might be something better asked of DIY or maybe even GIP, but how do we feel about those little Chinese Sieg lathes? Specifically the C2, this one: http://www.siegind.com/products_detail/&productId=54.html  I went looking for used lathes and they're either too huge, too expensive, or wood lathes, so it looks like if I want/need a metal lathe, I'm stuck with a tiny one like these. They seem reasonable for the price. Thoughts?
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Mar 24, 2016 05:25
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