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I don't see what their pricing but just FYI its pretty much the same thing as you can get at Harbor Freight for example. Lots of rebadged versions of the same mini lathe. Some good info here http://www.mini-lathe.com
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Mar 24, 2016 05:34
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Out of curiosity why would a question about lathes belong in Goons In Platoons?
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Mar 24, 2016 07:34
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I think a not-insignificant percentage of home machinists
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Mar 24, 2016 07:36
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You will want to clarify that you live in Australia LAF, cos otherwise every man and his dog will recommend you trawl craigslist for some old iron like a southbend/lagun/etc etc.... Old iron machinery DOES NOT EXIST in Aus, and anything that has been imported or is local manufacture is mega beer tickets... http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-metal+lathe/k0?fromSearchBox=true its terrible trying to find any good old machinery here... I watch Abom79 videos with massive jealousy...
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Mar 24, 2016 07:48
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Yeah, I should have clarified. Thing's about a thousand bucks, so I'm probably not going to pick one up anytime soon, but yeah.IOwnCalculus posted:I think a not-insignificant percentage of home machinists That's where I was going with that, yeah. Making/threading barrels and such. I CAN find good old iron, given enough time, but I don't have anywhere at all that I could put such a thing. I might have a proper shop space in the not too distant future (in which case hellooooo surplus bridgeport) but for now I don't even have an indoor area big enough for a proper metal lathe.
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Mar 24, 2016 10:31
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literally a fish posted:This might be something better asked of DIY or maybe even GIP, but how do we feel about those little Chinese Sieg lathes? There are a lot of people including some goons who are turning out good work on those things. They're not fancy but they are accurate enough and get the job done. As mentioned, they are all about the same. Some of them come with more/fewer accessories and maybe a more powerful motor.
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Mar 24, 2016 18:38
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Until I saw the brand name plastered on it I could have sworn that was the HF lathe. I'm pretty sure it is the same exact lathe actually, just with different stickers, market-specific electrical control knobs and stuff, and a different price. Look familiar? http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-12-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93799.html (7x12 inches is almost exactly 180x300mm.)  
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Mar 24, 2016 18:44
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kastein posted:Until I saw the brand name plastered on it I could have sworn that was the HF lathe. I'm pretty sure it is the same exact lathe actually, just with different stickers, market-specific electrical control knobs and stuff, and a different price. Look familiar? http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-12-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93799.html They're badged with a dozen or more names. Grizzly, etc sell them too. There's two sizes, the 7x and the 9x. The 7x has more issues, but is a lot smaller. http://www.7xlathes.com/ http://www.mini-lathe.com/ http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/ These sites have a wealth of information. They're functional lathes. LittleMachineShop has some upgrade parts too. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Mar 24, 2016 |
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Mar 24, 2016 18:47
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Scored this small adjustable tool tray from a buddy whose father had a lot of cool vintage snap on, s&k, and mac tools as well as a Cornwell tool box. Anyone got any idea who might have produced it? Any markers or stickers are gone. it was red with some black pin striping on the tray part. I am probably going to restore it because it would seem to be handier than bending down at my age and i don't need anything else larger in my garage like the HF cart.
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Mar 28, 2016 01:53
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I have a 9x20 I got years ago before my brother and I got a mostly functional 14" rockwell. The belt drve sucks haaaaaaaaaaard. Needs a total redo the moment you get the thing. Also the tailstock was .040 too low. Still, it's fixed more parts than I can count. Get a quick change toolpost asap. Also look into a new hold down for the cross slide. Also also replace all of the socket head cap screws with real fasteners, most of them are flimsy as cheese. The stock setup is so loose and not rigid that the cutter can dig in and stall the thing. More chucks are also more fun.
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Mar 28, 2016 03:56
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The ones i've been looking at are a newer model with a direct-drive brushless DC "servo" (motor) - so no belt drive problems, and no high/low gear. I figured most of the fasteners would need upgrading. Thanks for the info, it seems to be about as as I hoped/expected, so one of them will probably end up in my freshly cleaned out shed soonish  E: This is the specific one I'm probably going to go for. I'm sure the tooling it comes with won't be great but as it only adds $80 to the cost of the thing, I might as well get 'em so I have some stuff to gently caress about with. I need a smallish drill press too... And eventually a mill 
literally a fish fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 07:10
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For that price you could probably look at the small Hare and Forbes stuff too https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L685 I need a drill press too... so im just going to buy a Mill... You can drill a hole with a mill, but you cant mill with a drill press Edit: Even their next size up is probably not a bad machine either- little more capacity too https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L687 Ferremit fucked around with this message at 12:45 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 12:43
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Ferremit posted:You can drill a hole with a mill, but you cant mill with a drill press Over the protestations of the quill bearings on my $160 Ryobi drill press, and the large stack of dull-fluted poo poo tier drill bits, I would like to respectfully disagree. You most certainly can, the tolerances just aren't... all that great.
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Mar 28, 2016 15:35
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kastein posted:Over the protestations of the quill bearings on my $160 Ryobi drill press, and the large stack of dull-fluted poo poo tier drill bits, I would like to respectfully disagree. You most certainly can, the tolerances just aren't... all that great. Just need to do a whole poo poo load of spring passes. I've done it. Not a good idea. But you gotta do the needful.
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Mar 28, 2016 17:10
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I know a dude that lost a fingertip in high school doing just that. Not recommended at all.
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Mar 28, 2016 18:57
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sharkytm posted:They're badged with a dozen or more names. Grizzly, etc sell them too. There's two sizes, the 7x and the 9x. There's more than just 2, I have the 8x12(14) in my basement.
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Mar 29, 2016 03:07
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Ferremit posted:For that price you could probably look at the small Hare and Forbes stuff too I'd wager those are made by Sieg too. (It seems like sieg is the actual OEM here) - Optimum may be a German company, but these cheaper ones of theirs are made in China and bear a striking resemblance to Sieg equipment. kastein posted:Over the protestations of the quill bearings on my $160 Ryobi drill press, and the large stack of dull-fluted poo poo tier drill bits, I would like to respectfully disagree. You most certainly can, the tolerances just aren't... all that great. Yeah, drill press abuse will cover most of what I might need a mill for (and I have a friend who works at a machine shop for anything serious)
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Mar 29, 2016 04:05
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Can someone recommend me a good set of drill bits? I just moved out and realised my collection of home drill bits has become almost non existent. I need it for the usual house stuff. I have a HF set at work which is ok but my wife uses these at home and I would like to not worry about one exploding on her. (that's my job.) 
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Mar 29, 2016 17:04
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SouthsideSaint posted:Can someone recommend me a good set of drill bits? I just moved out and realised my collection of home drill bits has become almost non existent. I need it for the usual house stuff. I have a HF set at work which is ok but my wife uses these at home and I would like to not worry about one exploding on her. (that's my job.) Irwin Industrial Tools 316015 Cobalt Drill Bit Set, 15-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000EI9AZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_a8R-wbCSYBWZB There's bigger sets too if you feel it necessary.
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Mar 29, 2016 18:45
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Krakkles posted:Recommendation I got a couple weeks ago was Irwin brand Cobalt bits. I bought these: No I actually might buy two of those as my work set is also getting smaller these days. Thanks for the recomendation.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:41
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Bored at work post - last weekend I ended up getting a 72" Montezuma box for my birthday (I'll throw up pictures when I get to it) and now I need to fill it so I can finally migrate some of my projects out of my dad's godawful disorganized barn. Between my parents and in-laws, I think I can get enough "oops, I bought extras of this / accidentally walked this home from a job site" stuff to fill out all the basic requirements, so I actually have the luxury of picking some stuff that I'll use all the time to be better quality than baseline Craftsman. I'm looking at the SK / Williams / Blackhawk sort of pricepoint for the basics that I use all the time (sockets, wrenches) with a preference towards SK, and will be doing stuff incrementally. Are there any others I should seriously consider and or am I out of my mind? Do want to pick up one of those Wera Zyklops ratchets to try, but the full Wera socket sets look a bit out of my price range. Will be doing automotive stuff on the order of engine / trans rebuilding and the like, at least to start.
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Mar 29, 2016 19:57
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I would recommend grey pnuematic they are affordable and built rather well. They come in all sizes (1/4 3/8 & 1\2) all impact rated too. Plus there ratchets are decent quality too. Don't know if you have a harbor freight near you, but there 1\2 impact pro series is very good. I have beaten mine to hell and back. There extendable 1\2 ratchet is also a must have and holds up very well to abuse.
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Mar 29, 2016 20:11
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Krakkles posted:Recommendation I got a couple weeks ago was Irwin brand Cobalt bits. I bought these: I'd agree with this for house usage (read as: wood, plastics, and maybe sheet metal), but disagree for any real metal usage. These are imported, and although they may be OK, they're going to pale in comparison to a real quality set from Norseman, Cle-line, or one of the US industrial brands. I'm a huge fan of Norseman, and they do a yearly group-buy over at GarageJournal. Razor sharp bits, solid cases, and great quality.
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Mar 29, 2016 20:38
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SouthsideSaint posted:Can someone recommend me a good set of drill bits? I just moved out and realised my collection of home drill bits has become almost non existent. I need it for the usual house stuff. I have a HF set at work which is ok but my wife uses these at home and I would like to not worry about one exploding on her. (that's my job.) I'm personally a fan of Milwaukee and Ryobi black oxide HSS rather than fancyass coatings and stuff, they're pretty cheap and seem to avoid chipping/cracking better. For some reason I can't use a titanium nitride drill bit without the tip chipping and the drill becoming useless, even on a drill press, but I can cut quality holes in steel for months or years with HSS with no problems. I have broken black oxide HSS bits before, but it was entirely my fault, like the time I was, uh, "opening out" a 1/2" hole in a piece of quarter inch steel plate by walking the bit sideways and wallowing it around in the hole at full throttle. It grabbed and broke the bit in 3 pieces instantly. This is where I tell you that 1/2" Milwaukee gear reduced drills are badass and you should get one, but if you value your wrists, be more respectful of their power than I was.
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Mar 29, 2016 21:34
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kastein posted:I'm personally a fan of Milwaukee and Ryobi black oxide HSS rather than fancyass coatings and stuff, they're pretty cheap and seem to avoid chipping/cracking better. For some reason I can't use a titanium nitride drill bit without the tip chipping and the drill becoming useless, even on a drill press, but I can cut quality holes in steel for months or years with HSS with no problems. I keep a few of the Milwaukee 29 piece Black Oxide HSS sets around (got them for $19? on black friday a few years back) and I can't believe how well they have held up. I keep my Norseman bits locked away for machine shop use only, as the first time I used one in my 1/2" Milwaukee drill it shattered the tip.
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Mar 29, 2016 21:43
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sharkytm posted:I'd agree with this for house usage (read as: wood, plastics, and maybe sheet metal), but disagree for any real metal usage. These are imported, and although they may be OK, they're going to pale in comparison to a real quality set from Norseman, Cle-line, or one of the US industrial brands. I'm a huge fan of Norseman, and they do a yearly group-buy over at GarageJournal. Razor sharp bits, solid cases, and great quality.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:03
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Krakkles posted:Well, poo poo. I swear when I was looking a few pages back that was the only recommendation I saw. Looks like I'll be buying another set now. For general homeowner poo poo, the Irwin's or Milwaukees will be fine, but if you have a decently-rigid setup, and want accurate diameter holes in hard materials, it's hard to beat industrial bits. I do a lot of work in thick Stainless Steel plate, and cheapies will not work for poo poo. Double the feed, half the speed is the mantra for SS, as it work hardens really badly. Clamp it down, squirt some TapMagic, and go to town with a good bit, and all's right with the world.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:50
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Yeah these bits will be for at home. So I'm going with the milwaukee set. Plus I'm a sucker for black tools. Now to just convince my wife I need another set for work as well.
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Mar 30, 2016 02:18
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Did I gently caress up my DEWALT 20-Volt Max cordless drill by cutting holes in stainless steel sinks? Now it smokes a little bit and smells funny when I run it. Seems like it may have lost some oomph, but not sure. Basically used cutting oil to install faucets in 3 sinks (stopped when started to see wisps of smoke coming off the steel in a attempt avoid work hardening). I didn't go out of my way to let the drill cool down, just stopped the drilling when the sink was getting too hot then started up again once I reapplied oil. Is this normal?
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Mar 30, 2016 04:35
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Vulcan posted:Did I gently caress up my DEWALT 20-Volt Max cordless drill by cutting holes in stainless steel sinks? Now it smokes a little bit and smells funny when I run it. Seems like it may have lost some oomph, but not sure. Speaking of which, how are those DeWalt MAXs? They're on super-deep discount on Amazon right now and it's very tempting.
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Mar 30, 2016 04:41
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With those symptoms, if it's not brushless, it's probably fine. If it's brushless, it's not fine.
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Mar 30, 2016 07:56
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MrChips posted:Speaking of which, how are those DeWalt MAXs? They're on super-deep discount on Amazon right now and it's very tempting. My dad has one and my last job had one, and I thought they were great. Price on Amazon seems normal, though?
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Mar 30, 2016 08:52
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I don't think the quality is as good as other brands, which is why I was worried I broke it running it too hard. Also sparks come out of the vent holes when you let it loose, I dont remember that happening to that extent before. Its not brushless. Sometimes I think it would be best to have a corded drill around for hardened metal and masonry and save the cordless drills for the day to day tasks and lighter projects.
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Mar 30, 2016 17:14
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Vulcan posted:I don't think the quality is as good as other brands, which is why I was worried I broke it running it too hard. Also sparks come out of the vent holes when you let it loose, I dont remember that happening to that extent before. Its not brushless. Sounds like your brushes might be a mess; i've reshaped/cleaned them up before (not on this drill tho) so it might be worth opening up and inspecting things. Alternatively, you could get some replacements? I haven't run into any problems with my dewalt max stuff, but uh, i bought a 1/2 " corded dewalt drill (with the handle) and it has excellent variable speed control and tons of power - picked it up as a factory refurb for ~$65 and beat it like a rented mule. Most cities seem to have a factory outlet or repair place that can get you parts too (and cheap refub poo poo!).
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Mar 30, 2016 19:06
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I'm shopping for a benchtop drill press somewhere in the under-$400 range. Any standouts or deals? I've seen a few listed as "Drill press/Spindle sander." Does that mean that the bearings can take more lateral wear, like maybe for milling a smooth face onto 3D printed plastic parts? (With a sliding vise to avoid losing a thumb, of course.) eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 20:10
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eddiewalker posted:I'm shopping for a benchtop drill press somewhere in the under-$400 range. Any standouts or deals?
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Mar 30, 2016 20:34
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InitialDave posted:As with a lot of machinery, my first stop would be to look for older kit on the second-hand market. Preferably something commercial/industrial, made before you were born, and which you can't lift by yourself. I don't have a ton of time to go digging for gold. At a glance I see a lot of used Craftsman with unknown history and Chinese stuff with no markings. On the heavy industrial end I see people wanting $1000+ for 3-phase behemoths I can't store or even power at home. Not much in the middle and I'd much rather buy a "known quantity" of something new.
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Mar 30, 2016 21:01
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These are entirely solid for a simple drill press. https://www.skiltools.com/Tools/Pages/productdetail.aspx?model=3320 My hackerspace has one, and it handles whatever abuse people throw at it. e. And they're cheap. Under $200, easily. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 21:10
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eddiewalker posted:I don't have a ton of time to go digging for gold. At a glance I see a lot of used Craftsman with unknown history and Chinese stuff with no markings. Just as a frame of reference, I paid $150 for an old Rockwell 3-phase, and sunk another $150 into a VFD and control panel for it. It's a loving tank, making 1/2" holes in 3/8" 304SS plate is a simple task for it. In a hurry? Buy one of the countless Chinese/Taiwanese clones. They suck for hard metal work, but will be fine for wood/aluminum and the occasional piece of steel. Just don't expect them to spin big bits in hard materials because they usually don't go slow enough. That Skil is fine, you might find one used for peanuts. 570RPM minimum, which isn't great though. In steel, that'll limit you to 3/8 or 1/2 if you take it easy and have sharp bits and plenty of oil. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Mar 31, 2016 |
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Mar 31, 2016 03:15
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Unrelated to prior post, but going back through the thread it seems like there's some people pretty knowledgeable about wiring stuff. I'm looking at stepping up the grade of stuff I'm doing in race car wiring harnesses - to a degree that may be complete overkill but whatever. It looks to me like the Daniels AF8 with the TH163 turret head will do Deutsch DTM and AS connectors (at least #16 and #20, which is what I'm mostly concerned with anyway) and the TH1A head will do the MIL-DTL-26482 stuff. Am I on the right track, and are ebayed crimpers/turrets likely to be good enough?
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Mar 31, 2016 15:22
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