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Just ordered a UAP-AC-PRO, can't wait to replace the NSM2 that's been running in my attic the last 6 years.  Maybe I can use the NSM2 as a wireless bridge for the corner of the garage I don't want to run ethernet for the rare occasion i'm working on a wired-only PC, anything has to be better than the wrt54gl with dd-wrt that i'm using now. I also need to get off my rear end, figure out how to implement vlans on the managed dell switch I have in my rack, and implement a completely segmented guest wireless network. devmd01 fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 16:14
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Celador posted:I will be setting up my home network in a new house in the next couple of weeks, and here is my plan. Please let me know if I'm heading in the right direction. Your plan sounds solid. Two networks on the ERX, one for the WAN with one port and one for the LAN with the other four ports bridged together as a four port switch. Use the WAN+2LAN2 wizard and check the box for "Only use one LAN". Like this guy. This is what pretty much everyone who gets an ERX should probably be doing to set it up for home use so I have mentioned it in the new OP draft. Antillie fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 17:15
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Might as well check here before I return it, but the moca adapter kit I ordered did not seem to work. The instructions were pretty vague, but I tried a number of setups, just could never get the coax light to turn on. I eventually called actiontec for help, and the best they could do was have me plug the 2 adapters together and get the coax light to turn on, and just said the coax cables in the walls were not setup for this. Wall - coax - moca in, out to splitter with Comcast set and modem I live in a recently built townhouse, and knew about PowerLine adapters, glanced at moca and got excited. Do these just flat out not work sometimes? The troubleshooting posts I've found on the Internet had multiple splitters going into the house. I tried Comcast as well, and not sure the tech knew much about moca adapters, so that was frustrating. Link to kit I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008EQ4BQG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Mar 31, 2016 06:07
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Did you use a filter on the line where the cable actually comes into your house? If the signal is trying to go into the other units that can screw it up.
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Mar 31, 2016 13:43
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Finally got my Google Fiber hooked up yesterday. With the exception of one minor quirk, replacing the Google Fiber Network Box with an EdgeRouter Lite was extremely straightforward, assuming you don't have TV service anyway. Factory reset, SSH in and configure using the commands from here or here and you're off to the races. I used the second set of instructions, with the addition of the MSS clamping stuff from the first. The internet connection popped right up, but I had to do a bit of troubleshooting to get the DHCP server working properly. I wanted to use a different subnet from the 192.168.1.0/24 default, and I didn't realize the set interfaces ethernet eth0 address 192.168.55.1/24 command adds 192.168.55.1 as a secondary IP to eth0 instead of replacing the 192.168.1.1 default. Until I removed the 192.168.1.1 IP from eth0, the DHCP server wouldn't respond to clients at all. But it's working now, and I'm getting the same speeds I was using the Google box. Also picked up a UAP-AC-LITE to handle wireless. Took a bit of tinkering to get the controller software running properly under archlinux on a Raspberry Pi, but once it was running the rest of the setup was a breeze.
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Apr 1, 2016 06:04
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I'm not sure if this is the correct thread for this question. I have a server in my basement that I access remotely using a dynamic DNS service. This is fine, but the subdomain.domain.org domain makes me feel low class. I bought a domain name from AlpsNames. How can I make this domain point to my ever-changing IP address?
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Apr 1, 2016 15:01
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Dogen posted:Did you use a filter on the line where the cable actually comes into your house? If the signal is trying to go into the other units that can screw it up. Is this what I need? I haven't looked, no idea where the line would be that comes into the townhouse. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DC...v_1459522386739
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Apr 1, 2016 15:54
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PBCrunch posted:I'm not sure if this is the correct thread for this question. I have a server in my basement that I access remotely using a dynamic DNS service. This is fine, but the subdomain.domain.org domain makes me feel low class. I bought a domain name from AlpsNames. How can I make this domain point to my ever-changing IP address? Set up a cname pointing to your existing address.
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Apr 1, 2016 16:53
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Flatscan posted:Set up a cname pointing to your existing address.
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Apr 1, 2016 17:24
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GTJustin posted:Is this what I need? I haven't looked, no idea where the line would be that comes into the townhouse. Yup. Depending on how your units are set up, it could be a lot of places- in a closet inside, box outside, in an apartment building type situation sometimes they're in the roof in the hallway... Fortunately I live in a 60s house, the cable just comes off the utility pole next to the electrical wiring, and on top of that when I went out there to put it on I found that the cable installer had already done it, because they normally use a tivo based whole home dvr which runs on moca anyway (we have our own tivos).
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Apr 1, 2016 21:12
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Thinking of buying my own modem to use, but I'm moving in a few months to an area with completely different ISP's - am I better off waiting until I move to buy one to see what the other ISP's offer?
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Apr 2, 2016 09:47
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sba posted:Thinking of buying my own modem to use, but I'm moving in a few months to an area with completely different ISP's - am I better off waiting until I move to buy one to see what the other ISP's offer? I'd probably wait in case they use a different service and you end up with a modem you can't use elsewhere.
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Apr 2, 2016 09:51
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Do you already have an idea of what ISP you're going to use when you move? Can you just check with them and see if they have a list of approved devices?
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Apr 2, 2016 23:07
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Based on the recos in the OP, I ordered a Linksys E2500 on Amazon. It arrives Tuesday. Just now, while my wife was looking at poo poo at Goodwill, I was browsing the electronics and found an E2000 for $6. I bought it because, why not. If I use it instead of the E2500, what are the tradeoffs? Note that I don't download a lot of Linux ISOs, but I work from home and my main goal is to have better speed than the 13 Mbps I am currently getting out of my super old WRT45G. Edit: now I am at another Goodwill and they have an E1200 for $4. Being the cheap bastard I am, I'm wondering about this one too? Sub Par fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Apr 3, 2016 |
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Apr 3, 2016 02:31
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I'm tired of my crappy wireless signal in my apartment, and don't know much about what I'm doing. I've already got a Linksys e3200 from a few years ago running Tomato Shibby. Other than the terrible wifi signal, my wired stuff is just fine. Would I be able to turn off the wireless on that, and hook up a Ubiquiti access point to that, or am I going to need a different sort of router / switch? Also, I really am not interested in crazy speeds on the wifi, would the cheaper model be fine for Netflix on a single device at a time / internet and email? AP Unifi UAP AC Lite UAP
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Apr 3, 2016 03:20
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Myrmidongs posted:Would I be able to turn off the wireless on that, and hook up a Ubiquiti access point to that, or am I going to need a different sort of router / switch? Yes. That will work just fine. No need to buy a new router if you don't want to. Myrmidongs posted:Also, I really am not interested in crazy speeds on the wifi, would the cheaper model be fine for Netflix on a single device at a time / internet and email? I have a couple of these myself and I am quite happy with them. I get 55-80mbps on the wifi with a 2x2 MIMO wifi card in my laptop when transferring large files. However I am in a suburb with lots of space between the houses so the 2.4ghz band is quite usable for me. This is basically an updated version of the old UAP that supports AC wifi and the 5ghz band in addition to the traditional 2.4ghz band. Since you are in an apartment there is a very good chance that the 2.4ghz band is clogged with other people's wifi networks. This is probably why your wifi signal is poo poo. The 5ghz band doesn't have the same issues with lots of networks in a small area that the 2.4ghz band does. I would go with the UAP-AC-Lite if for this reason alone. However your laptops/phones/tablets/things also need to support the 5ghz band to be able to use it.
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Apr 3, 2016 03:34
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Sub Par posted:Based on the recos in the OP, I ordered a Linksys E2500 on Amazon. It arrives Tuesday. Just now, while my wife was looking at poo poo at Goodwill, I was browsing the electronics and found an E2000 for $6. I bought it because, why not. If I use it instead of the E2500, what are the tradeoffs? Note that I don't download a lot of Linux ISOs, but I work from home and my main goal is to have better speed than the 13 Mbps I am currently getting out of my super old WRT45G. The OP is horribly outdated and its recommendations aren't really that great any more. The E2500 is a perfectly serviceable dual band N router. Although its 100mbps ports may leave your wired LAN slower than you want. An Archer C5 or C7 would be much better. The new OP draft has some good modern recommendations. The E2000 is selectable band, not dual band. So it can do either 2.4ghz or 5ghz, but not both at the same time. Since not every wifi client device supports the 5ghz band this makes it hard to use the E2000 in 5ghz mode. The E1200 is a single band router with 100mbps ports. I don't feel that selectable band or single band routers warrant a recommendation for most use cases anymore. In my opinion both of these routers are rather outdated as simultaneous dual band and gigabit ports are pretty much the baseline for home routers these days with the dual band bit being particularly important. The E2500 is a bit outdated as well but much more usable than the other two since it supports dual band operation. Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Apr 3, 2016 |
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Apr 3, 2016 03:57
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Thanks. I got it home and tested it out, seems to not be all that great. Not a big deal - I can return it to Goodwill for store credit and I need to buy a cheapo DVD player anyway. I can cancel the E2500 order as well, but before I do that, maybe one of you guys can answer a question I have: I have 75mbps from Comcast, and when I am plugged into the LAN, speedtest.net reports speeds between 75-80, which is great. Both with my super old WRT45 and this E2000, I can't seem to get it much up above 10 mbps over wifi. I live in an apartment that is the top floor of a house, so there's not really a signal density issue and I've tried messing about with disabling WMM, changing channels, and all that jazz. Those things move the needle very slightly, but not much. Is it going to be this way no matter what router I use? I have read that something about the encryption overhead means you'll never get more than half of the wired speed via wifi, but that seems like a pretty high cost to me. Regardless, getting 35 mbps via wifi would be fantastic. So, if I buy one of these $75-$125 routers recommended in the new OP, will I see better speeds?
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Apr 3, 2016 04:25
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Sub Par posted:Thanks. I got it home and tested it out, seems to not be all that great. Not a big deal - I can return it to Goodwill for store credit and I need to buy a cheapo DVD player anyway. I can cancel the E2500 order as well, but before I do that, maybe one of you guys can answer a question I have: Yeah a newer router running on N or AC instead of G will be a lot faster. I get about 30 Mb/sec with my Ubiquiti UniFi which is N. The TP-Link Archer C7 is sort of the go to recommendation for under $100 but still pretty good.
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Apr 3, 2016 05:15
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Awesome. Ordered one up on Amazon, thanks for your help. Too bad my $6 one didn't work out 
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Apr 3, 2016 05:28
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I just bought and returned a Linksys WRT1900AC for being a terrible, unstable piece of crap. However in the rare periods that it was working properly, I was consistently able to transfer files between my laptop and a wired computer at over 50MB/s (ie. 400mbps). So yes, you should be able to easily get your full connection speed over wireless with modern equipment. Is anyone with an ERX and a 100mbps+ net connection using SQM/fq_codel for QOS? If so, how's the performance?
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Apr 3, 2016 05:34
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UAP-AC-PRO installed and operational. Still need to mess with settings but the basic SSID is up for now; that's all I had time for last night. Next up is tweaking wireless settings, then spinning up a completely isolated guest network. Now where did I put that cli reference for my managed switch...
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Apr 5, 2016 12:25
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You should use a wifi survey tool to see if you're getting good 5ghz signal strength through the ceiling.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:17
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CrazyLittle posted:You should use a wifi survey tool to see if you're getting good 5ghz signal strength through the ceiling. Are there any of these that don't require you to draw up a floor plan of your house/work on a mobile device? I'd love to run this kind of test on my place but don't have access to a laptop.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:41
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CrazyLittle posted:You should use a wifi survey tool to see if you're getting good 5ghz signal strength through the ceiling. I probably will at some point, but I'm not sure if I even have any 5ghz capable devices. I might have a linksys dual-band n usb adapter on my garage computer, but I'd have to check the model number.
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Apr 5, 2016 18:11
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SpaceCadetBob posted:Are there any of these that don't require you to draw up a floor plan of your house/work on a mobile device? I'd love to run this kind of test on my place but don't have access to a laptop. If you have an Android device the Wifi Analytics app does a great job of measuring signal strength and gives you a good picture of the local spectrum usage while you walk around. Not as precise as a professional system that ties into the floor plan. But its free and good enough for home use. If you want to see what the 5ghz spectrum looks like around you the Android device in question will need to have a 5ghz antenna.
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Apr 5, 2016 18:22
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Antillie posted:If you have an Android device the Wifi Analytics app does a great job of measuring signal strength and gives you a good picture of the local spectrum usage while you walk around. Not as precise as a professional system that ties into the floor plan. But its free and good enough for home use. If you want to see what the 5ghz spectrum looks like around you the Android device in question will need to have a 5ghz antenna. Hey thanks for this. I live in a relatively quiet suburban area with 1/4 acre lots, so I always figured wifi interference wouldn't be much of a big deal. However, this thing is showing all sort of mess and way more signals than I expected. Question on 2.4 channels, I'm pretty sure the general rule is always be on channel 1,6, or 11, but this app is saying that there is great service on channels 8 and 9. Should I swap channels or is this app not taking into account cross channel interference?
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Apr 5, 2016 23:05
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SpaceCadetBob posted:Hey thanks for this. I live in a relatively quiet suburban area with 1/4 acre lots, so I always figured wifi interference wouldn't be much of a big deal. However, this thing is showing all sort of mess and way more signals than I expected. Question on 2.4 channels, I'm pretty sure the general rule is always be on channel 1,6, or 11, but this app is saying that there is great service on channels 8 and 9. Should I swap channels or is this app not taking into account cross channel interference? Its not taking into account cross channel interference. The reason people recommend 1, 6, and 11, is that these are the only channels that don't overlap. So channel 1 bleeds into 2, 3, 4, and 5. Channel 6 bleeds into channels 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, and 10. And channel 11 bleeds into channels 10, 9, 8, and 7. You are better off sticking with 1, 6, and 11 because even if other networks are on these channels your network and theirs will share the airtime in a somewhat fair manner. (Unless there are just too many networks, which can happen in places like apartment complexes.) If you moved from channel 1 to say, channel 4, you would have to share that air time with anyone on channels 1 though 8 instead of just the people on channels 1 though 5. One of the biggest benefits of the 5ghz is that it offers 24 non overlapping channels compared to the 3 available in the 2.4ghz spectrum. This combined with the naturally shorter range of 5ghz signals allows many more networks to be in the same area without them interfering with each other. There is a very nice guide on this stuff here. Antillie fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 23:39
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Antillie posted:Its not taking into account cross channel interference. This is also assuming that everyone uses 20mhz wide channels, and not the wideband 40mhz N or 80mhz N/AC channel settings.
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Apr 6, 2016 00:08
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So, I'd like to get a wired internet connection on my PC, but my PC is on the opposite side of the house from my router, and I can't really move the router or pay to run cables through the walls to set up a wired connection to my room. There is, however, a coax outlet in my room, and I've been googling adapters that claim to take in coax and output ethernet - is this something I can just plug and play? Do I need to talk to my ISP to do some special setup? Am I completely off base to begin with?
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Apr 6, 2016 01:44
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Spiritus Nox posted:So, I'd like to get a wired internet connection on my PC, but my PC is on the opposite side of the house from my router, and I can't really move the router or pay to run cables through the walls to set up a wired connection to my room. There is, however, a coax outlet in my room, and I've been googling adapters that claim to take in coax and output ethernet - is this something I can just plug and play? Do I need to talk to my ISP to do some special setup? Am I completely off base to begin with? You'd be looking to try Powerline networking which uses the electrical wiring in the house or MoCA adapters which use coax cable. Ethernet's going to have higher throughput but if you just need low latency (which rarely exists with wifi) then one of those will likely be the way to go.
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Apr 6, 2016 02:43
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Rexxed posted:You'd be looking to try Powerline networking which uses the electrical wiring in the house or MoCA adapters which use coax cable. Ethernet's going to have higher throughput but if you just need low latency (which rarely exists with wifi) then one of those will likely be the way to go. You make a distinction between throughput and latency - does WiFi have better throughput than MoCA or Powerline networking that I'd be sacrificing for latency? And in any event, which might be better for my use case between MoCA and Powerline? I'm trying to improve gaming performance - particularly for fighting games - and general connection stability, I live in a nice house but I'm pretty sure most of the wiring is pretty old, and I'd say I can blow about 150ish on improving my internet in this room. Edit: Also, are powerline and MoCA just matters of buying a thing, plugging the thing into coax or power, and running ethernet from the thing to my computer? Or is there more setup involved? Spiritus Nox fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 02:55
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Spiritus Nox posted:You make a distinction between throughput and latency - does WiFi have better throughput than MoCA or Powerline networking that I'd be sacrificing for latency? And in any event, which might be better for my use case between MoCA and Powerline? I'm trying to improve gaming performance - particularly for fighting games - and general connection stability, I live in a nice house but I'm pretty sure most of the wiring is pretty old, and I'd say I can blow about 150ish on improving my internet in this room. Check out the (nearly finished?*) new OP, we added sections about MoCA and Powerline that should answer your questions. There's generally less latency on any sort of wired connection compared to wireless. *I'm feeling like it's pretty much complete, if you guys think as well then let's get it posted. 
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Apr 6, 2016 03:19
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So...looking at the powerlining section - that IS just plug and play? I don't have to pair a powerline adapter with my router or something? It just finds it and starts sending data over the electrical wires?
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Apr 6, 2016 03:33
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Spiritus Nox posted:So...looking at the powerlining section - that IS just plug and play? I don't have to pair a powerline adapter with my router or something? It just finds it and starts sending data over the electrical wires? You'll need two of the powerline adapters. One will sit on an outlet near your router and you'll plug it in to that router. The other will be at the other end of your house, next to your PC. The powerline adapters will pair with each other, you just have to connect them to your existing devices
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Apr 6, 2016 04:00
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Sir DonkeyPunch posted:You'll need two of the powerline adapters. One will sit on an outlet near your router and you'll plug it in to that router. The other will be at the other end of your house, next to your PC. The powerline adapters will pair with each other, you just have to connect them to your existing devices Ah. Neat. Think I'll give that a try, then.
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Apr 6, 2016 04:19
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Spiritus Nox posted:Ah. Neat. Think I'll give that a try, then. IMHO I would try MoCA or HPNA coaxial network adapters before I would try powerline adapters. Recent building code changes required AFCI breakers in all "habitable" space like hallways, bedrooms etc, and those things will kill your powerline throughput. The powerline adapters I bought from Monoprice were enough to cause false arc-fault readings and tripped the breakers a few times and also caused the closet motion detector lamp to turn itself on at random times.
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Apr 6, 2016 04:30
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CrazyLittle posted:IMHO I would try MoCA or HPNA coaxial network adapters before I would try powerline adapters. Recent building code changes required AFCI breakers in all "habitable" space like hallways, bedrooms etc, and those things will kill your powerline throughput. The powerline adapters I bought from Monoprice were enough to cause false arc-fault readings and tripped the breakers a few times and also caused the closet motion detector lamp to turn itself on at random times. How recent? I'm staying with my folks for the moment, and we've lived in this house since before I was born. ...Am I going to burn down my family's house?
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Apr 6, 2016 04:38
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Spiritus Nox posted:How recent? I'm staying with my folks for the moment, and we've lived in this house since before I was born. Based on how Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters work I could see the data signal being incorrectly interpreted as a leak and tripping the breaker. Since the adapter isn't changing the amount of current in an asymmetric way I don't think it would trip GFCI breakers. But I am not an electrical engineer. However the data signal is pretty benign compared to the high voltage signal that is already present. If the wires can physically handle the high voltage AC they will easily handle the data signal without any issues. I don't see powerline adapters being any more dangerous than any other random thing you might plug into a wall outlet. The only instance of a powerline adapter creating a fire hazard I can find was due to a manufacturing defect that resulted in a recall. It doesn't appear that any fires were actually caused though. It may be worth trying both Coax and powerline adapters and seeing which solution works better for you. Antillie fucked around with this message at 13:42 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 6, 2016 13:24
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Rukus posted:*I'm feeling like it's pretty much complete, if you guys think as well then let's get it posted. I think its pretty much complete as well. Any changes past this point are probably just nitpicking.
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Apr 6, 2016 14:00
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