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I am installing a jbl 600.1 ii mono amp in my car. It has the standard l/r rca inputs but my head unit has a single mono rca out. Do I have to get a splitter or should I be fine just running one cable to the left or right input? It only outputs mono anyway. e: it worked fine on one input godface zillah fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 13:57
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I have a 95 Mitsubishi eclipse, which has an "anti-theft" system, whereby if the battery is disconnected the radio won't work until you enter a code. Unfortunately, the radio display has gradually quit working since I bought the car, which was no big deal - I had already locked in the stations I listened to. But the positive terminal got loose and my car lost power and now I can't enter the code because I can't read the radio Anyway, i guess I need a new radio, but I'm neither a car, radio or even particularly handy guy. I'm not sure if I should just throw in the towel and buy one at Car Toys or buy something online and make my brother install it the next time he's in town.
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Feb 18, 2016 19:08
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I dont know what the interior of a 95 eclipse looks like but all of my oldsmobile and fords from the 90s were easy to do, as no one cared about leaving obvious screws and dash panel gaps hidden in the 90s. You'll buy the radio and a wiring harness. The radio will come with a harness that plugs into the radio and has color coded wires sticking out. You'll also buy a vehicle specific harness that will plug right into your dashboard where the old radio plugged in and will have color coded wires on the other end. You will attach these color coded wires to each other via soldering or whatever those twisty connectors are (or if youre like me electrical tape because  ) and then you might have to buy a little adapter to connect your antenna for the radio.You'll also have to deal with a mounting kit that mounts to your car, so that your new sized radio can mount to your car. These are usually pretty easy. If your car comes with a fancy stereo system with amps and subs it might be more difficult. If you shop at crutchfield and buy something over $100 they'll give you all the harnesses and mounting kits you need, I would start there.
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Feb 18, 2016 19:59
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The 2G Eclipse has a standard 2-DIN slot. I know EXACTLY how to deal with these: You'll need a harness adapter AND you'll need either a RCA-Amplifier adapter (the Eclipse with Infinity system has the amplifier under the passenger seat and it uses a non-standard plug), OR a new amplifier (lots of rewiring work), OR you'll need to patch the powered leads from the internal amp on the new stereo in to the existing speaker wiring (also a goodly amount of custom wiring work). There's a trim ring around the stereo and the HVAC controls, it'll just pry off if you get a flat edge in one of the corners. I usually go from the top of the HVAC controls since they don't really have anything holding them in place. If manual, you'll need to take off the shift knob. I don't think you have to pull the shifter if it's an automatic. Once you pull that trim ring off, there are: Two screws for the top of the center console, they should be right near the top of the radio. Two screws underneath the cupholder/ashtray assembly. This assembly should just pop out to get to the screws. One screw on each side of the rear area of the center console. You'll probably need to move your seats around to see them. Once the screws are off, the console lifts up and out. Make sure you're careful and pull the lights for the ashtray and cigarette lighter, and the power leads for the lighter. The power leads should basically pull off, and the lights are a twist lock. Head unit is held in with four screws. They should be pretty self explanatory. Once you have the head unit out and and unplugged, you can remove the mounting plates on either side and re-use them to install the new radio (this is a pretty rad feature). Wire your harness adapter to your new radio wiring following the instructions. I typically remove wires that aren't used, but YMMV. The factory harness doesn't have a ground lead, so you'll need to patch the radio ground wire to something. You can utilize the metal frame that the radio mounts to, one of the bolts that's actually connected to the body, etc. Plug in the amp adapter (if you so choose) to the RCA jacks in the new stereo. Patch the blue wire to the remote turn on lead in the radio harness. Plug the weird black plug in to the one you removed from the factory radio. Assembly is reverse of removal. Go ahead and hit me up if you want any other advice, like wiring bluetooth, GPS, iPod, or if you decide you want to upgrade your speakers/amp/whatever. I've owned DSMs for close to 20 years and have done several stereo installs on them.
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Feb 19, 2016 23:34
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I am looking to replace my stock system in my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (has infinity gold system or w/e). I am thinking about the following parts: Receiver: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X370BT/Pioneer-MVH-X370BT-2014-Model.html?tp=5684 (+$35 for steering wheel control kit) Front Speakers and Tweeters: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS694/Kicker-40CSS694.html?tp=105&l=C& Rear Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS674/Kicker-40CS674.html?tp=105 Sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206VCWS122/Kicker-40VCWS122.html?tp=112 Amp: Currently has the stock 6-channel Infinity amp, but I'm guessing it will need/recommended to be replaced. As far as I can tell I will need a 5-channel amp and the cheapest I saw was http://www.crutchfield.com/p_530PN5640D/Soundstream-Picasso-Nano-PN5-640D.html?tp=35808 I guess my questions are just: Do I need to buy a new amp? Is the Soundstream brand any good or should I look elsewhere? Can I save a decent chunk of money buying a sub and box separate or does it work out to be the same cost? I would probably buy the sub online and try to find somewhere local to get a box. I have radio/volume controls on the back of the wheel, do I need to buy a kit in order to keep that? Any other recommended brands? Currently at $775 and I might look to chip it down a little bit.
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Feb 25, 2016 07:19
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You could get a four channel amp and just power the front speakers and the bridge two rear channels for your sub. I've never bothered with rear speakers. That's not gonna save you a ton but it'd help.
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Feb 26, 2016 03:05
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I've come into possession of a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero with blown speakers all around. I'm not willing to spend too much to fix them; for the same amount of money, would the oem speakers or an aftermarket set be better. I can imagine oem speakers are better due to production volume, on the other hand they might be overpriced just because. Oem stuff would be $200 total for 2x 4x6 front and 2x 6x9 rear speakers. If I can spend half that on Clarion/Pioneer stuff for about the same sound quality that'd be awesome.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:04
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OEM stuff can be paper coned trash in certain cases so aftermarket will more than likely be better unless said car came with a particularly high end setup to begin with.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:09
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Ive had four oldsmobiles and replaced most of the speakers with Pioneer. You can get a really nice set for $200 or less.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:11
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If I don't want to expend the time or money on getting all new speakers and a powered sub, but the bassy music i like sounds like garbage on my stock crown vic speakers, would it be worth it at all to toss a pair of $50 speakers in the front? I don't need super loud or audiophile quality but if they could even match my $30 computer speakers at my desk it would be a step up.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:46
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Hi, 1st time poster itf. I have an electrical issue that my desperation fix sort of devolves to making an audio issue, so I hope this is the right thread. Basically, there's a short somewhere in the wiring in my old "vintage" Infiniti I30. I've had 2 mechanics charge me for trying to diagnose it; 1 terrible, 1 very good, and the good one still couldn't isolate all the short. So I decided to put an inline switch to the battery negative, which works as expected. I then ran a lead off the battery positive pole straight to the head unit in my car, so that it would retain memory like it used to before I put the switch in. Audio settings, radio stations, that kind of stuff. Plus knowing what audio in I was actually last using, powering on automatically if it was on when I killed ignition, you get the idea. Problem is, it doesn't work. There's a red and there's a yellow, and although the Clarion manual labels the red as accessory and the yellow (in-line fused) as main, that's backwards. Which doesn't matter anyway, because I tried connecting the lead to each one, and neither worked. The head unit is grounded, obviously, so I don't get why it doesn't work? Should I run another wire back from the unit's ground to the negative battery terminal?
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Mar 8, 2016 01:56
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How do you think the head unit is gonna get ground if your battery's negative terminal is disconnected? That's how you can ground things from the chassis.
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Mar 8, 2016 02:25
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powderific posted:How do you think the head unit is gonna get ground if your battery's negative terminal is disconnected? That's how you can ground things from the chassis. I've never done it before and figured since the head unit is grounded to the frame.....so yes on running a wire back to the negative terminal? Thanks.
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Mar 8, 2016 02:46
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Yep, that'd do it.
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Mar 8, 2016 16:48
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powderific posted:Yep, that'd do it. My all-Polk Momo system via Clarion thanks you.
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Mar 8, 2016 18:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:I've never done it before and figured since the head unit is grounded to the frame.....so yes on running a wire back to the negative terminal? Thanks. You're also going to be back to square one, if the head unit is touching anything metal (such as the antenna plug - the outside of which is often grounded to the car). Except you'll be sending all that power through a tiny wire instead of a beefy one.
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Mar 9, 2016 02:01
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some texas redneck posted:You're also going to be back to square one, if the head unit is touching anything metal (such as the antenna plug - the outside of which is often grounded to the car). Except you'll be sending all that power through a tiny wire instead of a beefy one. What do you mean going back to square one? Of course it's touching metal, there's a potmetal surround frame enclosing it.
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Mar 9, 2016 02:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:What do you mean going back to square one? Of course it's touching metal, there's a potmetal surround frame enclosing it. Power travels through a circuit that completes positive and ground. The negative line you run back to the battery is ground, and the chassis of the stereo is connected to its internal ground. From there anything metal touching your radio chassis will share the ground, so unless you have some insulation all around the radio chassis you'll just connect the whole frame of the car to ground via your radio and whatever size wire goes from it to the negative battery terminal. Edit: also yes, the antenna will share the ground between the radio and the car chassis. Basically your switch won't help because it won't be able to interrupt the circuit. parasyte fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Mar 9, 2016 |
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Mar 9, 2016 03:54
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parasyte posted:Power travels through a circuit that completes positive and ground. The negative line you run back to the battery is ground, and the chassis of the stereo is connected to its internal ground. From there anything metal touching your radio chassis will share the ground, so unless you have some insulation all around the radio chassis you'll just connect the whole frame of the car to ground via your radio and whatever size wire goes from it to the negative battery terminal. That's what I don't get. The Radio is switched internally (obviously), that uninterrupted lead which has a fuse, just provides juice so it retains memory settings. So in a normal setting, it always draws a little current, but not enough to drain the battery. I don't see how that translates to going back out through the entire wiring system.....somewhere in which is a shorted wire or 3; and back to square 1. edit. But, if so it won't be the first time I can't see forest for trees.
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Mar 9, 2016 16:51
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Oh man. Maybe try getting an amp install kit and following the directions.
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Mar 9, 2016 17:15
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rizzo1001 posted:Oh man. Maybe try getting an amp install kit and following the directions. It's already installed. Maybe try reading the thread. Man.
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Mar 9, 2016 17:22
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Suran37 posted:I am looking to replace my stock system in my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (has infinity gold system or w/e). You will definitely want to replace the amp if you replace the speakers. You can power the factory amp with an aftermarket head unit (it takes speaker-level input) but it does some filtering and treats the front door speakers as woofers only. It also doesn't really have any provision for a sub. No comments on any of the components you've actually listed because all I've done to my WJ is swap the head unit for an old Sony I had laying around that has Bluetooth. With that said, for the steering wheel control, get the Metra Axxess AWSC-1. That's the one I have, and it can connect to the databus wire at the head unit to get steering wheel inputs. The wiring harness adapter you get might even give you that wire as a "dimmer" wire (my Scosche wiring kit did) so you can do it without hacking any factory wiring. The Jeep boards love the lovely PAC SWI-RC, even though you have to cut it in place of the factory wiring in the steering column to use it. Mr. Mambold posted:It's already installed. Maybe try reading the thread. Man. You installed a cutoff switch in your negative battery lead to isolate it to work around a key-off battery drain. This caused you to lose your radio settings every time you open that switch. No amount of running extra positive wires from the battery to the head unit will fix that. Running a separate ground from the head unit to the battery is some really hacky poo poo and is begging for you to run into some ground loop / isolation problems, especially since the radio itself is probably still connected to the overall chassis ground in some manner. So as everyone else already said, your switch is now probably just diverting the entire key-off drain through the little ground wire. I also hope you never accidentally try to start the car without flipping that switch. 
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Mar 9, 2016 |
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Mar 9, 2016 17:28
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Mr. Mambold posted:It's already installed. Maybe try reading the thread. Man. Maybe draw out your circuit then, it's hard to follow.
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Mar 9, 2016 17:31
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rizzo1001 posted:Maybe draw out your circuit then, it's hard to follow. The head unit's not the problem. The power amp's not the problem. The problem is I've got a short somewhere else in the car's wiring that is no longer $-feasible to track and fix. (I've paid 2 different mechanics a total of $600 to try to find it, and the 2nd one let me off easy, and neither one could find it. I found a short in the cabin light fuse, and the 2nd guy found that and one in the seat warmer, but there's still a drain) So I put a bypass switch to the battery ground for when it's parked overnight. Then I ran a lead from the battery positive to the Yellow (accessory) wire on the head unit so it would retain settings. Head unit is already installed, grounded. But that lead from the battery doesn't do the trick, so I was thinking if I ran one back to the battery ground, that would complete that circuit- which powderific agreed. But, I'm getting second-guessed that that will just revert everything back to the start. edit. IOwnCalculus posted:
It is super hacky poo poo, that's why I'm asking some guys who I'd think know more about it before I go and do it. IOwnCalculus posted:I also hope you never accidentally try to start the car without flipping that switch. Lol, why would I do that? Do you think anything would actually happen? Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Mar 9, 2016 |
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Mar 9, 2016 17:41
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Mr. Mambold posted:edit. Your head unit is almost certainly not just floating in space, completely isolated from the rest of the car. The radio chassis itself (and as STR mentioned, antenna) are probably grounded to the rest of the car by means of physical attachment (the bolts holding the radio to the car, for example). So if you cut the ground lead off of the back of the head unit and run a new wire from the head unit to the battery, the rest of the grounds in the car (which all connect to the body of the car, like the radio) will again have a path to the battery by means of the new "radio-only" ground cable. So your isolation switch wouldn't isolate anything. If you run this bypass ground wire, and leave the switch open, and try to start the car, a range of things could happen. Best case for you, the starter doesn't have enough power available to even try to engage and you just get some angry clicking. Worst case, it attempts to start and dumps enough ground current through your lovely rear end wiring that it cooks the wire and attempts to self-immolate.
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Mar 9, 2016 17:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Your head unit is almost certainly not just floating in space, completely isolated from the rest of the car. The radio chassis itself (and as STR mentioned, antenna) are probably grounded to the rest of the car by means of physical attachment (the bolts holding the radio to the car, for example). So if you cut the ground lead off of the back of the head unit and run a new wire from the head unit to the battery, the rest of the grounds in the car (which all connect to the body of the car, like the radio) will again have a path to the battery by means of the new "radio-only" ground cable. So your isolation switch wouldn't isolate anything. Oh, I wasn't going to cut any grounds. I was puzzled why the existing ground and the bypass positive lead i ran wasn't sufficient to maintain an open circuit to the accessory lead to the head unit.
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Mar 9, 2016 18:02
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Yeah, listen to the other people. I just told you why your radio wasn't getting power—they put in the extra effort to think about the consequences of what you're trying and they'd deffo right. The ground on your radio could ground the whole chassis and, like others have mentioned, that defeats the purpose of your isolation switch at best and at worst you start a fire.
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Mar 9, 2016 18:43
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powderific posted:Yeah, listen to the other people. I just told you why your radio wasn't getting power—they put in the extra effort to think about the consequences of what you're trying and they'd deffo right. The ground on your radio could ground the whole chassis and, like others have mentioned, that defeats the purpose of your isolation switch at best and at worst you start a fire. Alright. Just for clarity's sake, there are 2 hot leads to the head unit- red, which is full switched power, and yellow, which is acc. memory settings, and it has an inline fuse. That's the one I was trying the workaround with since it goes away with the battery bypass.
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Mar 9, 2016 19:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:Oh, I wasn't going to cut any grounds. I was puzzled why the existing ground and the bypass positive lead i ran wasn't sufficient to maintain an open circuit to the accessory lead to the head unit. Electricity needs a complete path all the way around, that's why it's called a circuit. Your disconnect switch is on the ground side, adding more leads to the positive side won't do anything but make a bigger mess. Here's how your car radio should be wired, more or less:  In a super simplified description, the yellow wire runs from the battery straight to the radio. It's what the radio uses to keep the clock / settings, and in most cases I've seen, it's also the one that provides primary power to the rest of the circuits in the radio. The red wire runs through the ignition switch, and is basically used to tell the radio "hey the car is on, so you should be on". The radio ground wire (black) probably connects directly to the body of the car somewhere under the dash. The negative terminal of the battery also connects to the body of the car, probably somewhere under the hood. Because the car can be treated as one giant chunk of metal, it's conductive, and thus you have a complete path for electricity the whole way around. What you've done is this:  Whenever you open / turn off that disconnect switch, you eliminate the path for any electricity to flow through the battery. This lets you work around the discharge problem you have, but it causes the radio to lose its memory every time you do. You can add as many positive wires as you want but you still have a missing link at that disconnect switch. If you directly grounded the radio to the battery, it would look like this:  Now you have power to the radio again and it doesn't forget everything. However, because the radio is most likely still grounded to the rest of the car as well, that bypass wire could (and probably would) end up carrying all of the electricity that you're stopping with the disconnect switch. So the switch is now doing nothing but making your car dangerous.
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Mar 9, 2016 19:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Electricity needs a complete path all the way around, that's why it's called a circuit. Your disconnect switch is on the ground side, adding more leads to the positive side won't do anything but make a bigger mess. Here's how your car radio should be wired, more or less: Yes, I get that, thanks. IOwnCalculus posted:In a super simplified description, the yellow wire runs from the battery straight to the radio. It's what the radio uses to keep the clock / settings, and in most cases I've seen, it's also the one that provides primary power to the rest of the circuits in the radio. The red wire runs through the ignition switch, and is basically used to tell the radio "hey the car is on, so you should be on". The radio ground wire (black) probably connects directly to the body of the car somewhere under the dash. The negative terminal of the battery also connects to the body of the car, probably somewhere under the hood. Because the car can be treated as one giant chunk of metal, it's conductive, and thus you have a complete path for electricity the whole way around. Okay, mostly yes.  The original yellow wire runs off the fuse panel, obviously. Now I'm thinking "what if I run that bypass positive lead to the correct fuse in the panel instead of straight to the yellow wire on the head unit..." IOwnCalculus posted:Whenever you open / turn off that disconnect switch, you eliminate the path for any electricity to flow through the battery. This lets you work around the discharge problem you have, but it causes the radio to lose its memory every time you do. You can add as many positive wires as you want but you still have a missing link at that disconnect switch. IOwnCalculus posted:Now you have power to the radio again and it doesn't forget everything. However, because the radio is most likely still grounded to the rest of the car as well, that bypass wire could (and probably would) end up carrying all of the electricity that you're stopping with the disconnect switch. So the switch is now doing nothing but making your car dangerous. Obviously, the radio is still grounded. There's an inline fuse on the yellow wire that would blow when amperage went over 15. So the car dangerous part should be contained by that. What I'm wondering now is if there is a switched gate in the radio, that when main power (ignition and red wire) is open, the accessory lead (yellow wire) automatically closes. I'd think yes, but that bothers me. If I run the straight ground back, I find out, won't I?  .There's 4 audio=related fuses that I count in this car.
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Mar 9, 2016 20:38
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The yellow wire in my diagram existed before you added your own hackwire, so all you've done is duplicate wiring (possibly bypassing some fuses in the process). Adding more wires to the red/yellow side does nothing if the switch that disconnects *everything* from the negative terminal of the battery is open.Mr. Mambold posted:Obviously, the radio is still grounded. There's an inline fuse on the yellow wire that would blow when amperage went over 15. So the car dangerous part should be contained by that. The concern isn't whatever electricity is coming through the yellow wire normally to feed the radio - the concern is all of the other circuits that would be looking for a ground, and would find it by the fact that your radio is still grounded to the rest of the car. I'm running out of possible ways to explain this, but in a nutshell it seems like you've got a pretty poor grasp on how electricity works and should really not be loving around in your car's wiring. The two problems you are trying to "solve" - parasitic battery drain, and not having to reset your radio - are not mutually solvable by this disconnect switch. Anything you do to try and make the radio "work around" the disconnect will make the disconnect pointless and/or dangerous. There are only two options that solve both the parasitic drain and the radio memory problem. One is to properly identify the parasitic drain and disconnect it in some manner - pull the fuse if it's something you never use, put a disconnect switch on just that circuit, etc. The other would be to fix the drain properly - which is what you should do if you go to the effort of identifying the problem circuit in the first place.
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Mar 9, 2016 20:49
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Why the hell are you so set on switching the negative cable? The one time you forget about that switch (and it's not an if, it's a when), you're going to send 100+ amps right through your stereo's chassis and into the antenna cable's shield - if you're damned lucky, you'll only fry the stereo and have to pull a new antenna cable through the car (which is a massive pain in the rear end), and have to live with the stench of burned wiring for several months. What will PROBABLY happen is you'll burn your car to the ground (along with everything nearby) by trying to cram 100 amps through a cable that's not meant to carry any current whatsoever. Switch the positive instead (there's companies that even make battery disconnects specifically for this purpose!), run a fused wire from the positive terminal to the radio's memory wire, call it a day. And find a good automotive electrician before you set your car on fire.
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Mar 10, 2016 15:38
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some texas redneck posted:Switch the positive instead (there's companies that even make battery disconnects specifically for this purpose!), run a fused wire from the positive terminal to the radio's memory wire, call it a day. And find a good automotive electrician before you set your car on fire. Or he could do the "not a lazy dumbfuck" option of actually finding and fixing his problem instead of trying to do stupid bodges on a system he doesn't understand. Or we could just take his car and set it on fire some place safe so he doesn't inconvenience the rest of the world when he burns his car down in a Wal-Mart parking lot somewhere.
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Mar 15, 2016 08:01
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Does anyone have any experience with the underseat boxes for Ram Quadcabs (2012)? I just got a Ram and it has the Alpine upgrade with the 8" sub, but my last car I had two 12's in the trunk so this seems a little lackluster. I have seen two boxes made for this truck, an MTX 2 10" box, and a JL single 10" box. The JL comes with a 10" W3v3, the MTX is unloaded. Mostly I was just wondering if I can keep my fold flat floor things with either, I don't use the cubby on the drivers side under the seat so the two 10's vs one wouldn't matter, but I do use the fold flat. Also, I already asked in the BMW thread but it's audio related so I'll ask here too, 2008 E88 (135i) BMW, has bluetooth but it doesn't seem to stream audio, just voice. can this be updated or am I looking at replacing the head unit, and of the latter is there any flip open nav screen HU that would fit? the opening seems too small for a double din, so i'm thinking a single with flip out, and will the steering wheel controls and built in mics or whatever for the bluetooth still work?
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Apr 1, 2016 10:41
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A friend gifted me a very nice Kenwood KDC-X990 head unit and an Alpine 4x50W amp. I own a raggedy 1995 Honda Accord in which to install them. The car will take 6 1/2s in the front and either 6 1/2 or 6x9 in the rear deck. I'm willing to spend up to $400 on speakers. I'm more concerned with doing less work than I am with spending money. Should I get a nice component set for the front and some whatever coax speakers for the rear? Would it be totally dumb to bridge two amp channels to a subwoofer, use two channels for the two fronts and the head unit for the rear?
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Apr 5, 2016 03:24
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That's exactly what I did on my last two vehicles, but I didn't replace the rear speakers and, while they're connected to the HU, I normally keep it faded all the way to the front. You could easily stay under your budget doing that. Current setup: JBL P660c components in front Stock rear, unused JL Audio MicroSub 8" NVX 50w 4 channel micro amp, 2 channels to the front, 2 channels bridged to the sub
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Apr 5, 2016 05:23
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BJA posted:
The internet appears to say no unless you have iDrive or it's a 2011.5+ model. The universal suggestion appears to be to get a bluetooth adapter that you can plug in to your AUX port. Or buy a better head unit. I'm sure the "big" car multimedia manufacturers will have at least one "slider" so you can have a multimedia display. To get the controls working you'll need to pick up an adapter which will bridge the OEM controls to the head unit.
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Apr 5, 2016 19:32
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I recently installed a new head unit (Pioneer AVH-5800BHS) in my 2015 WRX and love the improvement enough to keep going. I have a JL Audio CS110LG-TW3 combined with a JL Audio JX500/1D subwoofer system. The next thing I want to do is sound deadening, speaker upgrades and a 4 channel amplifier. I want to stay with JL Audio for the speakers. However the amp is another question. I am back and forth between JL Audio and Rockford Fosgate. I'm not after crazy power so I was between the following amps: JL Audio JX400/4D JL Audio XD400/4v2 Rockford Fosgate R400-4D Rockford Fosgate R600-4D Rockford Fosgate P400X4 Rockford Fosgate P600X4 Anyone with experience with the brands who can give me objective advice on what I should get please post. I will also consider other brands, but those two seem to be top of their class in amps. I'd prefer to stay south of $500, but I'm after quality so...
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Apr 5, 2016 19:56
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What what you guys suggest for an 8" free-air sub and an amp to go with it? Would like to keep this under about $400 total.
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Apr 6, 2016 11:57
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Two questions: 1. Has anyone installed/used a Soundstream TN5.950D for power? I bought one to install in my boat and looks like a killer amp on paper. I intend on pushing it to it's limits running it 2 ohms across the board. (4 channels and sub channel). Curious as to how cool or hot the amp runs since it'll be in a boat environment. There isn't a youtube review on the TN5.950D but the other Soundstream Tarantula amps they tested appeared to put out above rated power. 2. Has anyone installed/used a Sony MEX-XB100BT head unit? Thing looks killer but I'm especially interested in how well control over the head unit works with the Android SongPal app. This will be in my boat so being able to control the head unit from the water or from other boats tied up will be great if it works well.
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Apr 7, 2016 07:29
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