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All I can say is anyone who is buying an oscillating tool should be careful to select one from the right "group" or reap the consequences. As far as I can tell there are two basic blade attachment styles, the one mine (MultiMax MM45) uses (along with a small handful of others) and the one everyone else uses. There's adapters to put the blades for mine on the other group, but while Home Depot employees will helpfully sell you the adapter and a bunch of blades for the other kind, they still won't fit on an MM45. Related: anyone local who needs blades? I have an rear end load of blades I can't use... oh... and the adapter.  I don't know if the MM30 suffers these problems or any other brands, it's just something to look closely at, along with the price of blades available to fit your tool.
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Apr 7, 2016 15:58
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So I think my corded drill is dying. It's one of those combo drill/hammer-drill/hammer-chisel deals and the straight drill setting has been acting pretty fucky lately. I'd like to replace it with a 1/2" since this one's only a 3/8". I'm happy to stick with corded for the replacement. Any suggestions?
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Apr 7, 2016 16:18
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:So I think my corded drill is dying. It's one of those combo drill/hammer-drill/hammer-chisel deals and the straight drill setting has been acting pretty fucky lately. I'd like to replace it with a 1/2" since this one's only a 3/8". I'm happy to stick with corded for the replacement. Any suggestions? Old Milwaukee Hole shooter if you can find one, or can wait and stalk CL long enough. New stuff, eh, they all kinda suck. Corded tools have been neglected since cordless have gotten so good. Milwaukee or Makita are always solid choices. DeWalt, I guess as well... I've just never been a fan.
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Apr 7, 2016 18:04
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Anybody have experience with the Harbor Freight Marine Heatshrink (http://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html)? Its supposed to have the waterproofing...stuff on the inside and is fairly well reviewed. Perhaps most importantly, its available locally and doesn't cost $texas because the only other dual wall heatshrink I've been able to find in a store is in a marina. On the other hand, I don't have my heat gun so I'd like to not get through the project with a zippo only to have to redo it.
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Apr 7, 2016 22:05
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I know nothing about scopes and cant really afford to buy a huge snap scan tool but wanna get my feet wet. Would this https://www.adafruit.com/products/468?gclid=Cj0KEQjwipi4BRD7t6zGl6m75IgBEiQAn7CfF_ijLMZKFm0ggL0bNsGTHkx_SIpY7F9F2nH96U7V56oaAtJi8P8HAQ be a good starter rig for automotive applications?
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Apr 7, 2016 22:39
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Preoptopus posted:I know nothing about scopes and cant really afford to buy a huge snap scan tool but wanna get my feet wet. What kind of automotive application, exactly?
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Apr 7, 2016 23:09
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Preoptopus posted:I know nothing about scopes and cant really afford to buy a huge snap scan tool but wanna get my feet wet. Cat Hatter posted:Anybody have experience with the Harbor Freight Marine Heatshrink (http://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html)? Its supposed to have the waterproofing...stuff on the inside and is fairly well reviewed. Perhaps most importantly, its available locally and doesn't cost $texas because the only other dual wall heatshrink I've been able to find in a store is in a marina. I don't know where you're looking that costs $Texas, but I'd call an electronics store (hobby stores might have it), or an electrical supply place. If you can order online and have it shipped: http://tinyurl.com/j26tm3c DigiKey, Mouser, Jameco, Waytek Wire, Newark... any electronics supplier will have it for cheap cheap. 4' of 1/4" 3:1 adhesive-lined shrink tube is like $3. Cut it into 3" long pieces, stuff it in a box. Also, don't use a Zippo unless you like it taking forever and possibly boiling the adhesive. A micro-torch lets you control the heat a lot better because it focuses the flame, unlike the wavering Zippo flame. Or, you know, a heatgun, which is the best tool for the job. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 23:11
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eddiewalker posted:What kind of automotive application, exactly? Tps sensors as said before, injector pulses, fuel pumps poo poo like that. If that one is poo poo which i kinda already assumed can anyone suggest a good starter scope thats not huge?
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Apr 7, 2016 23:14
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Preoptopus posted:Tps sensors as said before, injector pulses, fuel pumps poo poo like that. Heheh, there's not much out there aside from an Automotive scope ($$$), or Fluke Scopemeter ($$$$). The USB scopes with no screen are even worse, because you've got to lug around a laptop. There are some for Android, but they suck rear end too. There isn't much of a middle ground. Rigol DS1054Z is my default recommendation. $400, 4 channels, 100MHz with upgrade, 1GS/sec, tons of memory. http://www.tequipment.net/Rigol/DS1054Z/Digital-Oscilloscopes/?v=0 Use coupon code eevblog6 for 6% off. ::edit:: Discussion here from GJ. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115227 sharkytm fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 23:21
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For automotive use I'd pick up literally any Tektronix scope in working condition that has at least two channels. A 465 or 2213 won't do you wrong. You can usually get them for $dirt at ham radio flea markets, on ebay, etc. Hell, I have like half a dozen 2213As around that I still have to fix up and sell.
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Apr 7, 2016 23:43
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You sound like you know your poo poo. Im a cheap bastard and I want to get a FFT from an accelerometer hooked up to various parts of a 3D printer. My plan was to build a constant current power supply to power an IEPE accelerometer. And rig it up to my mic port on my computer such that I dont get any of the excitation voltage from the mic port crossing over to the accelerometer. I dont really care about accuracy of the magnitude, just consistency and high sample rate so I can get a reasonable FFT out (figured id use audacity for that). How stupid is this?
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Apr 7, 2016 23:43
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I've never used that kind of accelerometer but the rest sounds decent. You aren't going to get jack poo poo at 0Hz (or close to it) because most audio input devices have a DC blocking capacitor on the mic input but as long as you get the voltage level adjusted right so you use the full range of the audio ADCs you'll get something. You probably also won't get more than a few dozen kHz bandwidth out of it, but I assume you're just checking for resonances in the structure of your 3D printer so you can stiffen it up a bit by damping those frequencies, so I doubt it'll matter. An op-amp unity gain circuit based off an op-amp with a reasonably low input bias current (you can get them all the way down into the picoamp range now, which is way better than you need) should be enough to keep the mic bias separated from the accelerometer. It's not really needed (you could just use another DC blocking cap) but you'll probably need to adjust the accelerometer's output levels to match the expected input level range of the audio device anyways to avoid clipping or not using the ADC's whole range, which will give you artificially bad data, so rather than unity gain you can set the op-amp up as an amplifier or attenuator and have it do both jobs. Remember to check the op-amp's spec sheet for the max/min voltages it can output given a certain supply voltage*, don't forget to take single ended vs double ended supply (and its effects on what your "ground" reference for your input signal is) into account, and have fun. * or just be lazy like me and use a rail-to-rail op amp, which typically means it can drive the output linearly within 50mV or so of the positive and negative supply rail voltages. I'm a fan of the LMC7101 as they're dirt cheap, have great specs, and are rail to rail. Unless you have a drat good reason to, these days it's usually best to just use a rail to rail op-amp, because it's 2016 and LM741s, LM358s, and LF353s are obsolete by at least 20 years. RtoR is not an expensive feature now nor does it really narrow your part availability down. Gain/bandwidth product, output drive current, CMRR, and input bias current probably aren't very important for this sort of circuit, but again, almost any part you select these days will be orders of magnitude better than it needs to be for tens of cents in qty1. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Apr 7, 2016 |
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Apr 7, 2016 23:54
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sharkytm posted:Eh... kinda? It's gonna be painful to navigate the interface, it has basically zero bandwidth or sampling rate, and those sort of scopes are universally panned, but for an automotive application (I'm talking TPS signals and the like, not high-speed CAN-BUS sniffing), you might get by with it. 200kHz bandwidth is basically 50-100kHz usable, and 1MS/sec is bad. Also, the case is tied to the ground, so that rules out any ignition stuff. Also the USB is tied to ground, so you could easily fry a laptop if you swap polarity. I was shopping it against similar sets on Amazon which, when I was looking, were all $20+. Now I'm seeing several for a bit cheaper, but they're still 3-4x as expensive as HF. And when looking locally, marinas (because they're for watertight connections) charge through the nose for anything. I'll try to find a new electrical supplier. And I know exactly how much it sucks to use a zippo on heatshrink, since it was my only means for several years until I inherited a heat gun...thats currently in storage until I get a new house  . Maybe I'll see if I can borrow one.
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Apr 8, 2016 00:33
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You can get a perfectly good heat gun for $15-20 and they don't last forever so might as well just buy one.
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Apr 8, 2016 01:13
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warcake posted:Is that the new 3/8 fuel in the box there? It's the new 2nd gen in 1/2". I haven't had the chance to use it yet but it's seriously compact, almost the size of the M12 impact but with 220 lb/ft. http://toolguyd.com/milwaukee-m18-fuel-impact-driver-compact-wrenches-gen2/
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Apr 8, 2016 01:25
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sharkytm posted:Heheh, there's not much out there aside from an Automotive scope ($$$), or Fluke Scopemeter ($$$$). The USB scopes with no screen are even worse, because you've got to lug around a laptop. There are some for Android, but they suck rear end too. There isn't much of a middle ground. You can unlock even more features with "riglol"
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Apr 8, 2016 10:44
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SEKCobra posted:You can unlock even more features with "riglol" Oh, trust me, I know... I've hacked mine and about a dozen others. God bless Rigol's weak encryption (which they know about and don't care).
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Apr 8, 2016 16:10
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sharkytm posted:Oh, trust me, I know... I've hacked mine and about a dozen others. God bless Rigol's weak encryption (which they know about and don't care). Yeah, I follow the "intentional" theory, that they wanna allow the consumer to get a bit more for free and don't intend to stop them. Regardless, it's quite nice.
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Apr 8, 2016 17:24
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Anyone around here use the QuickJack system or know anyone who does? It looks sketchy as gently caress and I'm pretty sure I saw it in a god drat magazine. http://www.quickjack.com/shop-quickjack-products-all/shop-quickjack-vehicle-jack-systems/bl-5000slx-ac-110-volt.html Are there any other options similar to this?
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Apr 8, 2016 19:00
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sharkytm posted:Heheh, there's not much out there aside from an Automotive scope ($$$), or Fluke Scopemeter ($$$$). The USB scopes with no screen are even worse, because you've got to lug around a laptop. There are some for Android, but they suck rear end too. There isn't much of a middle ground. Thanks a ton. I'm about to embark on my project 1300cc Vmax and was looking to build some digital controls to replace the older logic... this will be wonderful
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Apr 8, 2016 19:59
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Sooooo I've finally got all the tools necessary to complete the rebuild of my 2.0L 8v Volkswagen engine short of one: a motor/engine stand. I'm planning on picking up the 1,000LB model from HF (there's one right up the street!!), wondering whether it's worth it and whether it'll be obvious where to bolt the thing to the engine when I get on up on the crane. Bonus "NEW TOOLBOX" content:  Got it offa craigslist for a hunnert bux  Everything works, just need to find the locking bars so I can transport it without the drawers sliding open.
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Apr 8, 2016 21:49
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So what's everybody's take on the Matco 4S and 6S boxes? How about 2-bay 54" vs 3-bay 72"? Hutch vs. upper vs. stainless top? I can get various combinations locally used... I've gotten to the point of too many portable boxes and carts to be manageable, plus I'm at the point that can justify buying an end-game box for myself at home. Regular residential 2-car garage too, so a 72" may be just too drat large? Also, any quality alternatives to a Kennedy 620 3-drawer that isn't black or poo poo brown?
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Apr 8, 2016 23:09
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6S Is loving huge (deep) and in my opinion not worth the money but if you want a real hot rod box that's the top of the line pretty much. The guys ive seen with 6s's keep all there tools in original packaging so they take up way more room than they should, as nice and organized as it looks. I like using the top of my box as a work surface and have never seen guys that have the top box fill it with anything besides paperwork, old poo poo, funny goofy poo poo and spare nuts and bolts. Also ive seen them smash there heads on open drawers while looking for something in the bottom box. A hutch would be cool for the home cause you can hang a flat screen on it but it all depends how deep your pockets are. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Apr 8, 2016 |
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Apr 8, 2016 23:17
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Are Ez-outs poo poo or am I just retarded Had zero success with getting broken rusted bolts out of my landcruiser with them and just snapped one off in a broken rusted bolt in my mates Hilux alternator In a related question, how in the gently caress else can I get this broken rusted bolt out of this alternator ? Which now has a snapped off Ez-out in it. Tried vise grips on the tiny end that's sticking out, cut a slot in it with a hacksaw to try use a screwdriver, heated it with a torch, shits rusted in tight Pretty much limited to drilling it out & possibly having to retap the hole, or welding a nut on now, right? gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 00:52
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gimpsuitjones posted:Pretty much limited to drilling it out & possibly having to retap the hole, or welding a nut on now, right? Pretty much hosed. Ezouts are damned hard and they're going to throw your drill way offline. To get one to work takes a combination of black magic, blind luck and fearlessness of possible failure modes. Pictures and keep us posted, please.
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Apr 9, 2016 01:27
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EVERYWHERE 
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if you successfully use an EZ-Out, you're some kind of wizard. They're gahbage. You could try these irwin left-handed cobalt drill bits, I've had pretty decent luck with 'em.
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Apr 9, 2016 01:28
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gimpsuitjones posted:Are Ez-outs poo poo or am I just retarded Unless you have a drill press, I would recommend taking the alternator to a machine shop and seeing if they can get it out with a drill press. Ive torched them out before but never on soft metal.
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Apr 9, 2016 01:30
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Actually getting the alternator out might be enough of a challenge, has vacuum/oil lines attached obviously & every frickin thing in this engine bay is rusted to hell E: had the drill slip once getting the hole in for the ezout
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Apr 9, 2016 01:48
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scuz posted:Sooooo I've finally got all the tools necessary to complete the rebuild of my 2.0L 8v Volkswagen engine short of one: a motor/engine stand. I'm planning on picking up the 1,000LB model from HF (there's one right up the street!!), wondering whether it's worth it and whether it'll be obvious where to bolt the thing to the engine when I get on up on the crane. Yeah, the 1000lb one is the one to go for. The 750lb one only has three wheels, and is much easier to tip over. I have two of the HF 1000lb ones and one unknown brand 3-wheeler, and I much prefer the HF 4-wheeler ones. Although, those solid steel wheels really hate rolling over anything, so I hope you have a clean surface to roll it on. You bolt it where the bellhousing goes. Like so:  Although I suppose your engine will be a little bit smaller!
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Apr 9, 2016 01:53
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What does that go to? My instinct would be to cut that poo poo out with a grinder and put in a couple washers .
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Apr 9, 2016 01:58
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My broken bolt? It's the bolt that secures the alternator to a slotted bracket to tension it. You use a big lever against the block to push against the alternator body and tension the belts then tighten that bolt to hold it in place.
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Apr 9, 2016 02:07
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gimpsuitjones posted:Actually getting the alternator out might be enough of a challenge, has vacuum/oil lines attached obviously & every frickin thing in this engine bay is rusted to hell Take it to a machine shop, they'll bore it out with carbide tooling on a milling machine, skip the drill press. $50 or less.
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Apr 9, 2016 02:13
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gimpsuitjones posted:My broken bolt? It's the bolt that secures the alternator to a slotted bracket to tension it. You use a big lever against the block to push against the alternator body and tension the belts then tighten that bolt to hold it in place. Oh drat that has a screw tensioner. My idea of cutting a big U in the top of that bracket and then using a lock washer and a nut might work... But thats obviously the dodgy fix.
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Apr 9, 2016 02:13
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Not my truck lol might get out the angle grinder E: bolts holding alternator to block are rusty, severely stiff. Am becoming concerned about making things much worse gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 02:17
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gimpsuitjones posted:Not my truck lol might get out the angle grinder Penantrant and tighten before you loosen. Back and forward. Also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uwz7BhAWZE Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 02:29
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RapeWhistle posted:Anyone around here use the QuickJack system or know anyone who does? It looks sketchy as gently caress and I'm pretty sure I saw it in a god drat magazine. http://www.quickjack.com/shop-quickjack-products-all/shop-quickjack-vehicle-jack-systems/bl-5000slx-ac-110-volt.html I have the smaller Quickjack. I like it a lot. I had my MG up in the air for 3 months and it felt solid enough that I didn't worry about working underneath. The tall rubber blocks give a little too much sway, so I only use the short blocks or hockey pucks. I put the motor and hoses on a HF cart and its easy enough that I've lifted my Mazda3 up just so I can wax while sitting on a roller stool. http://youtu.be/DsYjpAbpu5I
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Apr 9, 2016 03:13
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gimpsuitjones posted:Not my truck lol might get out the angle grinder Soak those bolts in penetrating oil before you try to get them out. Isn't there just one other bolt? And it should be a through bolt with a nut on the other side. If that's the case then it doesn't matter if it breaks, you can just pull it out and replace it. As for EZ outs being garbage, I find about half the time they work great, the other half of the time they just make things worse, and that's the half you've got this time. This is what I would do, in order of ascending difficulty: 1. Does your hole go all the way through? If so, just knock it out with a punch from the other side. If it doesn't go all the way through, then drill it from the other side, and then reread the previous sentence. 2. Failing that, EZ outs are brittle, and I've had luck shattering them by whacking them with a hammer and punch, and then digging out the pieces. Best to try that once you've got the alternator out of the engine bay, and in a vise so you don't damage the other mount. 3. If those don't work, then it's time to get a die grinder with a carbide burr bit. That should make short work of the EZ out. Actually since it's aluminum I would skip #2. Once you've got it out, get a helicoil kit, drill everything out, and put it back to the proper size. You could drill and tap to the next size up, but make sure the next size up bolt will fit into the tensioning bracket.
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Apr 9, 2016 05:18
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Why not just get the alt out through any means necessary, then grab one thats not all hosed up from the pick n pull? It's only, what, like $25 or so for an alt there? Cheaper than having a shop dick with that one, and perhaps even cheaper than your time to helicoil it or whatever.
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Apr 9, 2016 06:12
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Update: There's no wreckers where I live, small town. Could try get one in from out of town but if I can just drill this out & tap it for an 8mm instead of 6mm bolt it's easier
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Apr 9, 2016 06:48
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It's only a 6mm now? gently caress, drill that poo poo the hell out. 8mm it is. Maybe (if there is adequate access for this to not be infuriating) through drill it and use a nut to start with, too. The hard part is going to be keeping a drill centered on the steel bolt. Steel is hard and cast alloy is soft and cheesy, drills like to walk off into the softer metal if you aren't extremely vigilant. A drill press and a spot drill can be very helpful for starting it, then drill straight through with a small bit and work your way up. If you are good, and careful, you might even be able to drill out to the minor diameter of the bolt and then pick the threads out with a dental pick, but you will likely go a little off center and chowder the threads so expect to through bolt this or tap it to M8 and move on with your life. It's just an alternator tensioner bolt, position and diameter are very negotiable, save the heroics for poo poo like unobtainium alloy accessory brackets and exhaust manifold to head fasteners that have gone south.
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Apr 9, 2016 22:35
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