|
moonsour posted:My mom's car is a Chevy Aveo 2007. There was smoke when starting the car in the morning indicating an oil leak and the engine light flashed for a bit before turning off for the rest of the day. For future reference, a flashing check engine light means pull the gently caress over and shut off the engine right now. It's not as bad as the oil light coming on (by the time that comes on you've already done damage), but when the engine light is flashing, it means it's misfiring badly, which will absolutely destroy the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors in a hurry. Plus there's unburned fuel in the cylinders, which will somewhat make its way past the rings and into the oil, diluting it. Though to be fair, it's a 2007 Aveo. Those cars are easily one of the most terrible cars GM put out this millennium (sorry). If it hasn't had the timing belt done yet, it needs to be done immediately; it's supposed to be inspected at 30k, and replaced by 60k or 5 years (whichever comes first), though there's been plenty of them that have broken long before 60k. If it breaks, she's looking at a couple of grand to get it running again.
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 08:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 09:05 |
|
|
some texas redneck posted:
Just open the driver's door and look at the manufacturing label - and you can see the Aveo is made in Korea by GM Daewoo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 12:24
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I meant what I said, unless dodges are really unusual and have no shield behind the front discs at all. They often get bent without you even noticing while you're dicking around with brakes and CV joints and the effect is usually exactly what you're describing, plus it's far more likely that the problem originated from the car being worked on and not just by coincidence. There isn't much of a shield.  Plus, the CV joints and brakes/rotors were replaced because of this issue, it didn't happen after so I don't think it was anything we did replacing them. I am going to check to make sure that what backing is there isn't bent and check the wheel bearing too. Luckily the wheel bearing is all one piece - no pressing so maybe it won't be too bad if that's what it is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 13:41
|
|
|
BigRed0427 posted:So, I have a 2002 Saab 95 that I am starting to REALLY hate. It runs fine but some much of the other stuff like the Windows, the ac/heat, the seats and such have electric controls so when something goes wrong it's an issue. What compounds it is that my brother in law is the one who sold it to me and when ever I give it to him m for repairs it takes like a week to get it back. This saabworld thread might be of interest to you: http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=28212 You might be experiencing the same problem as the op of that thread, and I'd start by taking the memory module out and seeing if the buttons are sticking. You can try to clean it with electronics cleaner and see if it offers better performance. Otherwise you can replace it with this part. The good news is once you take the module out the seat won't be able to move at all so just set it where you like it (door open no key in ignition) and take the module out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 16:10
|
|
|
bigperm posted:There isn't much of a shield. That shield also has a big chunk out of it. A wheel bearing noise may go away when you hit the brakes because the rotor is now stabilizing the wheel and bearing assembly by being sandwiched between the pads. But really at this point you gotta go do some testing, theoreticals only go so far when it comes to under car noises. iirc its 3 12 point bolts holding the wheel bearing in, plus years of road grime and rust. It sometimes takes a lot of hammer swingin to bust them out. Also remember to re install the dust shield the correct direction. It will fit both ways and you wont notice till you put the rotor on. Ive done it before and so have many others.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 16:45
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Not that anyone cares probably, but I finally got a hold of that guy selling the supra. Gonna meet with him this weekend and if the frame and everything is okay I'll be purchasing my first (project) car. Just got back from meeting with the guy and looking at the car and starting the engine etc. It was a loving gem. No rust on the frame, sprayed twice a year and left inside in the winter, engine still has some head gasket issues (he says he can still smell coolant in the oil), some hanger bearing issues but nothing really wrong with it. Paid $2500, getting it towed to a garage I'm friendly with to see what the damage will be for him to safety it (whether or not I'll get him to do it is another question) and I'll probably have it in my garage by next weekend (I'm really busy during the week) Here's a shot under the hood:  and it's an '87 supra, not '88 Hot Karl Marx fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Apr 10, 2016 |
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 16:49
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Just got back from meeting with the guy and looking at the car and starting the engine etc. Well done I'm very jealous.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 16:58
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:Just open the driver's door and look at the manufacturing label - and you can see the Aveo is made in Korea by GM Daewoo. What do you expect when the cars lineage is chevette, geo metro, and now the aveo. Daewoo failed itself and yet GM still keeps trying to rebadge them into the us. It amazes me that chevy trax and buick encore sell well being just a car with a tall roof to make it look like some clown car minivan suv thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 17:40
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:What do you expect when the cars lineage is chevette, geo metro, and now the aveo. Daewoo failed itself and yet GM still keeps trying to rebadge them into the us. It amazes me that chevy trax and buick encore sell well being just a car with a tall roof to make it look like some clown car minivan suv thing. GM bought out Daewoo North America. One of my first jobs was a tech at a Daewoo dealer. The cars were very popular with low income people, and really not that terrible except for guaranteed timing belt failures at 55k which would destroy the cylinder head, something that didnt mesh well with low income owners who tended to defer expensive maintenance.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 17:49
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Just got back from meeting with the guy and looking at the car and starting the engine etc.  Nice work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 18:21
|
|
|
From the look of it that Supra has the TEMS adjustable suspension too?! Yeah dude, score. Get the HG done ASAP and drive the tits off it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 20:06
|
|
|
Raw_Beef posted:GM bought out Daewoo North America. One of my first jobs was a tech at a Daewoo dealer. The cars were very popular with low income people, and really not that terrible except for guaranteed timing belt failures at 55k which would destroy the cylinder head, something that didnt mesh well with low income owners who tended to defer expensive maintenance. So that's why I don't see them too much anymore. there a small Euro shop that once upon a time had twelve Daewoo in the lot just taking up space.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 21:58
|
|
|
SouthsideSaint posted:So that's why I don't see them too much anymore. there a small Euro shop that once upon a time had twelve Daewoo in the lot just taking up space. yeah the cheap lovely daewoo's like the matiz and the nubira and whatever all got rebadged as chevrolet years ago.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 22:22
|
|
|
I think the Yugo engine had the same issue - it's a 2 valve engine - but they recommended to check the timing belt every 15k and replace every 30k because it's somehow an interference engine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 23:49
|
|
|
Replaced the plugs and wires on my 93 Volvo 850. Checked that the plugs were getting wet and smelled fuel. Checked the plugs to make sure they were sparking and they were. Still getting a crank no-start. It seems to almost catch and then go back to just cranking. Where do I look next?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 23:56
|
|
|
0toShifty posted:I think the Yugo engine had the same issue - it's a 2 valve engine - but they recommended to check the timing belt every 15k and replace every 30k because it's somehow an interference engine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2016 23:59
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Number of valves has absolutely nothing to do with whether or not an engine's an interference design, though? Yeah but the fact it was an ultra-economy motor from an ex-soviet country out of a car that would cost like $7 grand today does. You wouldn't expect a low-compression low-power motor to have any need for the pistons to rise that high/valves open that far.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 00:09
|
|
|
The engine of the Yugo you know and loathe, with the cambelt, is a later addition (it's basically the Fiat 128 & X1/9 lump). The original Yugo engine was pushrod, I believe coming from the Fiat 127 design that the car itself originates with. Whether an engine is interference or not depends on a lot more than just the compression ratio and valve lift. I agree that if you were designing from scratch a basic, agricultural engine for people who need fix-it-with-a-hammer tech, you'd do your best to make it non-interference, but the fact something's a low-performance or relatively simple engine doesn't indicate a great deal about whether or not it'll be an interference design.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 01:07
|
|
|
Do not besmirch my glorious Yugo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 04:53
|
|
|
I put down a $1000 reservation for the Tesla Model 3 just now... is it possible to figure out how far back in the line you are?
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 05:05
|
|
|
Well, there are 300k reservations, so... 300,001?
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 05:10
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Well, there are 300k reservations, so... 300,001? Where'd you get that number? Elon Musk's twitter is the first place i went to, 325k is the number i see and that's from a few days ago. Just wondering what my realistic chance of getting that 7500 tax credit is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 05:13
|
|
|
Mister Fister posted:Where'd you get that number? Elon Musk's twitter is the first place i went to, 325k is the number i see and that's from a few days ago. Considering how many cars Tesla has made to date and how many preorders there are, coupled with the frequent delays, probably next to none.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 05:22
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Considering how many cars Tesla has made to date and how many preorders there are, coupled with the frequent delays, probably next to none. Ah well, maybe i'll get a partial credit 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 05:25
|
|
|
Google is your friend sometimes. http://gas2.org/2016/04/10/tesla-will-adjust-model-3-production-to-maximize-tax-credits/
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 05:47
|
|
|
The new Chevy Volt is going to beat it to market for sure.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 08:47
|
|
|
MonkeyBot posted:Replaced the plugs and wires on my 93 Volvo 850. Checked that the plugs were getting wet and smelled fuel. Checked the plugs to make sure they were sparking and they were. Still getting a crank no-start. It seems to almost catch and then go back to just cranking. Where do I look next? What plugs did you use? What color is the spark? If the coil is original it's probably suspect.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 15:31
|
|
|
zundfolge posted:What plugs did you use? What color is the spark? Autolite copper core. I read through a few sites and they should work. The spark I think was yellow. I was checking in daylight so it was a little tough to tell but really a sort of yellowish white I think.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 16:52
|
|
|
Crossposting:SperginMcBadposter posted:Something I noticed after the adjuster was set is that the pistons don't extend out far enough to contact the shoes when at rest (it's like this for both wheels) Is that normal for drum brakes?
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 16:55
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:Crossposting: Have you compared old and new wheel cylinders? The shoe should be close to the drum surface near the bottom, and a well adjusted brake will drag on a free spin. Keep in mind, with the beefy springs, the the tops of the shoes rest on the pin near the cylinder. The pivot point is the bottom at the adjuster. When at rest, the shoes aren't a perfect circle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 17:31
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Have you compared old and new wheel cylinders? The adjuster is right below the wheel cylinder on this setup 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 17:44
|
|
|
Does this seat look familiar to anyone? They were bolted into a International Scout II, but definitely didn't come from it originally. Trying to figure out what they're from so we can decide if it would be a travesty to make office chairs (well, shop chairs) out of them.  Full album: https://imgur.com/a/AWKHq There's a rear bash panel (it covers the back of the base of the seat) that has some numbers on it, but none have resulted in anything useful in my searches: S <coach logo - looks familiar but I don't know what it is> 1CAV PT 1740871 ASM NO 20104425 REV 8 Then "P | P" encircled. Picture of this panel is here. Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 18:45
|
|
|
MonkeyBot posted:Autolite copper core. I read through a few sites and they should work. The spark I think was yellow. I was checking in daylight so it was a little tough to tell but really a sort of yellowish white I think. Those plugs aren't ideal but they're way better than what was in there. Just make sure you have them gapped properly-the spec is .028-.03. 850s are fairly sensitive to ignition components and the OE plugs aren't that expensive so it's probably worth buying a set and swapping them out when you get a chance. If there's a code for the camshaft position sensor then I'd start there. It's not hard to get to-it's on the driver's side of the engine and it mounts to the back of the head at the end of the exhaust cam. Unfortunately there's not a lot you can do to test it but if you have a multimeter you can check to see whether it generates a voltage while cranking the engine. It should switch between 0V and 5V but you probably won't see that with a meter because it switches too quickly. Some change is a good sign, though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 19:03
|
|
|
zundfolge posted:Those plugs aren't ideal but they're way better than what was in there. Just make sure you have them gapped properly-the spec is .028-.03. 850s are fairly sensitive to ignition components and the OE plugs aren't that expensive so it's probably worth buying a set and swapping them out when you get a chance. Yeah I had to gap the plugs myself but they should be right in that range. First time doing it but it's pretty straightforward. I might just order a set of those you linked though because that's about $..63 more per plug than the ones I got. I was finding all the OEM ones at like $6 a pop. I'm getting a 324 or "Camshaft Sensor signal intermittent" so that might be where I head next. That code was throwing about 6 months ago too but maybe it got to the point it's actually causing trouble now. Everything I read is that the ignition coil is pretty rock solid on the 850 so I'll leave that until later.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 19:24
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:Crossposting: No. They should self adjust when you brake going in reverse. So maybe a couple times then should be good.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 19:26
|
|
|
A shop just quoted me ~$1,000 bucks for a problem with my wife's 2006 Honda Fit. I kinda feel like this is the point of no return where I'm going to start getting these kind of bills with regularity as this thing continues to fall apart, and I should probably just get a new car. Do you guys think this is a reasonable point of view, or am I being too pessimistic? Frankly, I am cheap as poo poo and neither alternative feels great. The shop quote is from the dealer so I could probably cut it in half elsewhere, but it is still a lot of money to patch up a car that is probably on its last legs anyway. I brought it in because it was over-heating, and it turns out it's got a radiator leak. I'm betting that my wife drove it all day yesterday without any coolant (because she likes to rest her phone on top of the indicator lights) so there might be even more poo poo wrong with it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 21:10
|
|
|
A radiator shouldn't cost anywhere near $1000 - on most cars, it's a relatively simple job to perform (lower labor cost) and they're not usually expensive parts (I think the most I've paid for a radiator, over 4 wildly different cars, was $300). It is almost always cheaper to repair a car you have than to buy a new one. Think about it this way - if you buy a new car, you're going to pay that much in 4 months or less for the payment. If this car is paid off, I would personally keep it and fix it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 21:14
|
|
|
No I'm pretty sure you can save $1000 by spending $20k
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 21:15
|
|
|
What I was getting at was more along the lines of "the routine upkeep of this car seems like it is approaching the cost of an Actual Nice Car's car payment, maybe I should do that instead".
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 21:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 09:05 |
|
|
Enourmo posted:No I'm pretty sure you can save $1000 by spending $20k This needs to be the thread title.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2016 21:30
|
|
