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That's....interesting. How could it find it's way out of the valley part and all the way into the gears? Wouldn't the casting in the block that holds everything in the right place have to break?
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Apr 11, 2016 05:10
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I think it's set up like my Enfield, where it's old enough tech that there's enough gap around the bottom tappet for a pushrod to maybe slide beside, down into the timing gears.
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Apr 11, 2016 05:18
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I thought it was one of those folding machines at first 
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Apr 11, 2016 11:28
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CommieGIR posted:I thought it was one of those folding machines at first Well, it was that day, silly. Content: Wind blew off the upper roof on this shop.  That works almost exclusively on Rolls-Royces. When a Rolls needs major electrical work (which is always, even post-Lucas), they strip out the interior, and put it upstairs for safekeeping. The shop didn't realize that the entire upper roof peeled off until it started raining later that day. Very heavily. Into the room where the interiors are kept.  The next room had R-R service & chassis shop manuals going back to 1911. They got sent off for freeze-drying.
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Apr 12, 2016 03:55
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Holy poo poo that insurance bill.
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Apr 12, 2016 06:14
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FuzzKill posted:Not what you want to find in an engine you installed in a car a month ago gently caress, that blows. I was lucky, my #6 intake valve stuck open after sitting in that position for 3 years in my back yard. So when I cranked it, the cam lobe came down, the lifter came down, the pushrod came down and away from the rocker, and when the cam came back up it just punted the pushrod into the underside of the valvecover and it dropped into a spot between some lifters in the valley and sat there till I went in after it to find out why #6 wasn't doing anything  At least it was an easy fix, it took longer to prep the head and valve cover for the new gasket than it did to fix the problem.
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Apr 12, 2016 15:29
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PainterofCrap posted:Well, it was that day, silly.  Jesus loving christ thats a bad day.
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Apr 13, 2016 01:15
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Not really "horrible" in comparison but yesterday my car suddenly developed a serious vibration so I pulled off the highway to look. Everything was fine, no low tires or something jammed in the wheels. Wait, what is that? oh it's just the adhesive left behind from one of these  Never had one fall off before, what the hell? You'd think the rotational force would keep it solidly in place but apparently not.
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Apr 13, 2016 04:55
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Judging by the brake dust those have been off for some time, might just be remnants of the old weights from when you last had them balanced. Maybe check the inside lip?
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Apr 13, 2016 04:58
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^^ Going with that. Tire shop probably mounted the tires up, stripped off the old weights, balanced with fresh weights. Second pic has the break rotor, is it looking through a spoke?
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Apr 13, 2016 07:55
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Nobody ever strips the residue unless they have to put weight over old residue. You probably didn't lose one, that looks too clean for chance.
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Apr 13, 2016 22:10
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Yeah you guys are probably right, the car still picked up a vibration though. Something is definitely off balance somewhere. I'll keep looking.
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Apr 14, 2016 00:08
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Another non-running dodge sitting at an auction.     At least they went back and picked up the pieces.
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Apr 14, 2016 03:44
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Powershift posted:Another non-running dodge sitting at an auction. Only some of them, it appears.
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Apr 14, 2016 13:31
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The other shattered chunks are with God now.
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Apr 14, 2016 13:55
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drat, that's a hell of a tossed driveshaft. Looks like part of a transfer case casting?
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Apr 14, 2016 14:55
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Sudo Echo posted:Yeah you guys are probably right, the car still picked up a vibration though. Something is definitely off balance somewhere. I'll keep looking. Hit any potholes lately? It's usually a good idea to have them balanced every 5k or so anyway. I usually balance mine when I switch from summer to winter and vice versa. Another thing I found out the hard way. If they are aftermarket wheels, you'll pick up vibration above 55 mph if someone forgot to put the hub rings back in.
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Apr 14, 2016 14:56
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I want to hear the sound that made.
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Apr 14, 2016 15:06
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SCA Enthusiast posted:I want to hear the sound that made. Buy a Dodge
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Apr 14, 2016 15:15
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NoWake posted:Buy a Dodge Needs at least 2000miles on the odo. So buy a Dodge and do a road trip.
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Apr 14, 2016 15:18
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veedubfreak posted:Hit any potholes lately? It's usually a good idea to have them balanced every 5k or so anyway. I usually balance mine when I switch from summer to winter and vice versa. Another thing I found out the hard way. If they are aftermarket wheels, you'll pick up vibration above 55 mph if someone forgot to put the hub rings back in. You're the only person rebalancing wheels/tires every 5k miles.
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Apr 14, 2016 15:38
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BraveUlysses posted:You're the only person rebalancing wheels/tires every 5k miles. Eh its free.
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Apr 14, 2016 16:06
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Most cars don't need hubcentric rings because of the conical lugs most cars have nowadays. Are there any production cars that still have flat seat lugs?
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Apr 14, 2016 16:10
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Heavy duty trucks still use flat flange nuts and are hub centric. I thought some Toyotas did but on googling to refresh my memory the ones I'm thinking of do have a taper at the bottom.
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Apr 14, 2016 16:22
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veedubfreak posted:Another thing I found out the hard way. If they are aftermarket wheels, you'll pick up vibration above 55 mph if someone forgot to put the hub rings back in. 
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Apr 14, 2016 16:27
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Enourmo posted:Heavy duty trucks still use flat flange nuts and are hub centric. I thought some Toyotas did but on googling to refresh my memory the ones I'm thinking of do have a taper at the bottom. Depends. Some do some don't, IIRC. I could swear my truck's got conical nuts and it's staggeringly modern, built in 1958 with left and right handed threads. When I went shopping for wheels years ago all the truck wrecking yards asked me if I was hub centric or lug centric. (that was weird to learn, glad the torque spec is so high that I didn't manage to break the stud off even with a 4 foot cheater pipe)
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Apr 14, 2016 16:39
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My old bmw's needed hub rings and I could definitely tell when I accidentally left them out, the bolts were taper shaped so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it or not.
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Apr 14, 2016 19:03
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Nissan and Mitsubishi for example have lugs like these:
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Apr 14, 2016 19:14
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those are good cause in my experience they're pretty beefy, i never really ran into having to replace studs cause the previous jackass managed to crossthread them the way short lug nuts can be done. they also never self-disassembled due to rust in central florida. lookin' at you, ford/mopar chrome-plated nuts.
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Apr 14, 2016 19:18
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The lack of cross threading is probably the unthreaded pilot bore on the lug nut (seen above) and the usual unthreaded pilot tip on the lug stud. One or the other makes it dumbass proof, both (or a really long pilot on either one) makes it moron proof. e: oh, and gently caress those lugnuts with the chrome condom. You know what's even worse though? Dorman replacements for them. I bought a few for my MJ just to get it through inspection and the loving chrome covers had fallen off and jammed in my lug wrench by the time I was done torquing the brand new lug nuts on brand new lug studs for the first time ever. Total trash.
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Apr 14, 2016 19:30
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um excuse me posted:Most cars don't need hubcentric rings because of the conical lugs most cars have nowadays. Are there any production cars that still have flat seat lugs? Uh, no. With hub centric wheels and hubs, the hub itself is designed to support the road forces coming from the wheel; the lugs and lug nuts are just fasteners to keep the wheel from falling off the hub. With lug centric wheels and hubs, the lug nuts are part of a bolted joint. As long as there's enough preload, you're fine - the lugs stay in tension and transmit shear forces to the hub. But, if a lug nut backs off or a lug stretches enough to lose correct preload, all of a sudden you're depending on a lug in shear to hold up your car and transmit road forces to your suspension - a job it was never designed or specced to do. And, there's the question of whether the whole system is set up to handle the necessary preload at all. Conical lug nuts don't do anything for you. Using lug centric wheels on a hub centric hub without an adapter ring is a bit like using mild steel hardware in your suspension. Sure, it's cheaper than doing things right, and it'll probably work as long as nothing goes wrong - but the actual savings are tiny, and the risk is huge.
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Apr 14, 2016 19:59
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Space Gopher posted:Uh, no. no no no no no. They're both bolted joints. I've never seen anyone say anything otherwise and it doesn't make sense, either. If the hub/centerbore was supposed to carry the weight, why is it such a narrow mating surface (the hub pilot on some of mine are less than 1/8" wide - and some of them are even just 4 little points) and not a pressfit? Also, many companies make the adapter rings out of plastic or aluminum. Neither is going to carry the load.
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Apr 14, 2016 20:08
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Space Gopher posted:Uh, no. This is wrong.
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Apr 14, 2016 20:23
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Isn't it wonderful when people spout a bunch of bullshit they made up in their heads as fact? Wait, it's not.
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Apr 14, 2016 21:26
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Space Gopher posted:Uh, no. Is it safe for me to only use 3 lug nuts instead of 4? I don't want the unsprung weight to affect my road force.
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Apr 14, 2016 22:59
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veedubfreak posted:Hit any potholes lately? It's usually a good idea to have them balanced every 5k or so anyway. I usually balance mine when I switch from summer to winter and vice versa. Another thing I found out the hard way. If they are aftermarket wheels, you'll pick up vibration above 55 mph if someone forgot to put the hub rings back in. Nope, didn't hit a drat thing. Drove on the highway for 20 minutes and everything was fine, stopped for 15 minutes, then drove home the same way and on the way back there it was.
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Apr 14, 2016 23:26
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mustard_tiger posted:Is it safe for me to only use 3 lug nuts instead of 4? I don't want the unsprung weight to affect my road force. A pro trick is to only tighten the lug nuts down to a quarter torque, then drive ten miles. Any nuts that fall off in this process were the "extra nuts" that are just there as backup for the "main nuts" that stayed attached. Tighten down the remaining ones and you're good to go, with optimized unsprung weight!
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Apr 15, 2016 01:39
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kastein posted:
At work we bought a set of these for a Sebring that was rusted and blew a ball joint. I used black sealant and let it dry to stick them on. Still on the test drive four of the ten on the front fell off. gently caress those forever.
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Apr 15, 2016 05:04
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Space Gopher posted:Uh, no. lol, this is 100% bullshit.
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Apr 15, 2016 17:26
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Here, have pictures of a mechanical failure. Posted to a local WJ FB group with the explanation of "it let go on the highway".  
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Apr 15, 2016 20:33
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