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I finally finished these three. So glad to be able to move on to more fun and pretty stuff. 
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Apr 12, 2016 11:38
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The purple is pretty from a distance, but the fun aspect is def understood. What are you making next?
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Apr 12, 2016 17:50
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Trillian posted:I need advice on hemming especially stretchy knits. I've broken the thread on some spandex stuff because the hem isn't stretchy enough. I think I should try a stretch thread, but so far I am only seeing thread for sergers, and I am using a regular machine. Are you already doing the maximum stitch width? The wider the stitch width the stretchier it is. Or do what I did and cave in and get your own coverstitch machine. 
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Apr 13, 2016 05:50
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NancyPants posted:The purple is pretty from a distance, but the fun aspect is def understood. What are you making next? I was going to tackle my pile of UFOs, but that would make too much sense. I'm about 30 hours into a 2,600+ piece rolling waves quilt in blue and green. It'll finish at about 80" square. In a few days, I'll be cursing my maker for not providing me with a mid or long arm quilting machine.
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Apr 15, 2016 14:56
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Colonial Air Force posted:Hello sewing goons! Crocobile posted:Hancock Fabrics is going out of business and is currently selling everything for 20% - 50% off! I'm guessing the sales might get more intense as they get more desperate to empty the stores. Most of the patterns are currently 50% off!
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Apr 19, 2016 02:08
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HodjasBitch posted:I was going to tackle my pile of UFOs, but that would make too much sense. I'm about 30 hours into a 2,600+ piece rolling waves quilt in blue and green. It'll finish at about 80" square. In a few days, I'll be cursing my maker for not providing me with a mid or long arm quilting machine. I have yet to begin my first quilt for this reason, but there's a quilting place within about 20 min of me that I think will do it or will maybe let me do it? The idea of someone else quilting my quilt really bothers me.
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Apr 19, 2016 02:26
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If they have a longarm in shop then they might offer both options, letting you either rent time on the machine or pay someone in-shop to do it. Any quilt shop should be able to recommend longarmers who work on commission; just do your research if you go that route. Also if it's a smaller quilt you can do it on a home machine and have total control. I mostly send mine off to longarmers because I'm usually sick of looking at the drat things by the time they're done. A two week break lets me fall back in love. Speaking of falling back in love, here's the lobster quilt on its way to completion.  I need one more border but can decide if it should be rail fence blocks like the one in the center or two rows of just piano keys like the second border.
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Apr 19, 2016 06:18
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Mmmm drat let me get that on my bed and have my husband be like ugh I don't like colooooooors and then I'm like suck it. No input on what you should do next. It's beautiful, I want to marry it.
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Apr 19, 2016 19:37
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It's largely Allison Glass fabrics. I had a bunch of scraps left over from this monster.  which has sorely depleted my stash.
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Apr 19, 2016 20:52
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Oh my gaaaaawd
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Apr 20, 2016 00:04
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I love Alison Glass' fabric lines! You used them so well too  Some day I will actually finish what I used my stash of Handcrafted on. Why did I think queen size was a good idea? Backings are so expensive. 
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Apr 20, 2016 00:24
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How big of a quilt could I reasonably make with a Moda jelly roll?
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Apr 20, 2016 00:57
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A single Jelly roll? baby-sized, maybe a skinny lap. It's 42 strips at 2.5" so you're looking at slightly less than three yards before seems. Instant Jellyfish posted:I love Alison Glass' fabric lines! You used them so well too Good choice of background color. I loved that feather pattern, but paper piecing kind of scares me so...
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Apr 20, 2016 04:46
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there wolf posted:Good choice of background color. I loved that feather pattern, but paper piecing kind of scares me so... Paper piecing is so much fun, you should try it!. I made this unicorn block recently and I wanna do more but I have been too drat busy. 
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Apr 20, 2016 14:23
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I thought paper piecing was going to be horrible but it's not bad at all and you can do some really fun intricate patterns with it. My most recent finish was this paper pieced economy block quilt and it was awesome knowing I wasn't going to lose any points even if it meant tearing off bits of paper for hours after piecing all the blocks.
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Apr 20, 2016 19:58
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I need a dress!!! I can't sew my way out of a paper bag, and I need a dress for a friends wedding! IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN MAKING SOME SCRATCH AND COULD SEW ME A SIMPLE DRESS PLEASE PM ME!!!!!
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Apr 22, 2016 09:01
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Instant Jellyfish posted:I love Alison Glass' fabric lines! You used them so well too You can piece backings (by joining regular yardage side-to-side) or use a white sheet (many old examples did), or fabrics.com often has backing fabric at relatively low prices.
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Apr 22, 2016 16:26
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SuzieMcAwesome posted:I need a dress!!! I can't sew my way out of a paper bag, and I need a dress for a friends wedding! IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN MAKING SOME SCRATCH AND COULD SEW ME A SIMPLE DRESS PLEASE PM ME!!!!! Just.... buy a dress. You're not going to like the price point for a handmade dress. My hourly is criminally low at $20/hr, and between patternmaking time, sewing time, and materials, you're looking at minimum $200. Just buy a nice dress and don't burden someone with what will likely be an agonizingly irritating design process followed by a long wait followed by disappointment and misery on both sides.
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Apr 23, 2016 00:30
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Also never give money to a goon.
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Apr 23, 2016 00:41
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Agreed. You can't get bespoke pieces anywhere near fast fashion prices. Or t-shirt quilts. People seem to think those should be made cheaply. But no, they are a pain in the rear end.
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Apr 23, 2016 02:55
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If I could find a dress to buy, I would have obviously done so... what I am needing is a VERY simple design with this being the basic design. Regardless, found a friend of a friend to make it for me.
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Apr 23, 2016 03:35
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baby puzzle posted:Also never give money to a goon. Always this, but I have no problem buying somebody some supplies they can use to make something. Always be helpful
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Apr 23, 2016 08:31
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Is it possible to work with chiffon without a serger? I'm making a cape and I just need a way to keep the cut edges from fraying too badly, and to attach cuff and a collar essentially.
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May 11, 2016 00:09
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there wolf posted:Is it possible to work with chiffon without a serger? I'm making a cape and I just need a way to keep the cut edges from fraying too badly, and to attach cuff and a collar essentially. I do French seams frequently with http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.php Also a rolled hem on the bottom. You could also do flat felled seams https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/standard-flat-felled-seam
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May 11, 2016 06:44
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there wolf posted:Is it possible to work with chiffon without a serger? I'm making a cape and I just need a way to keep the cut edges from fraying too badly, and to attach cuff and a collar essentially. Adding to Funhilde's good advice, if you have a throat plate for your machine with a smaller hole, that'll help the chiffon from getting sucked down into it. A little starch might also help keep it lined up. I like basting my seams rather than pinning on that sort of fabric too. I posted this in the cosplay thread already, but I guess I can share it here too - I've been binge reading JoJo's Bizarre Adventure recently, and I love all the ridiculous costumes in it. They were clearly drawn with no thought to how they'd look or work in real life, so it's sort of a fun challenge to try and translate that into actual clothing. I think too often cosplay goes with fabric choices that you just wouldn't use in real clothing, which can make things look sort of cheap and fake. If your material has a real life integrity, no matter how crazy the outfit, it's more "believable" (Oh no, now I'm using my college thesis material to justify making a dumb costume. Pull up! Pull up!)  I made Mista Guido's outfit because it's super obnoxious and making that hat seemed like a fun project. Plus I am a stinky, hairy Italian, so I'm playing to type. Don't know if I'll wear it anywhere, just wanted to figure it out. I might make more, choosing one is tough because there's just so many dumb weird outfits.
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May 11, 2016 13:19
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there wolf posted:If they have a longarm in shop then they might offer both options, letting you either rent time on the machine or pay someone in-shop to do it. Any quilt shop should be able to recommend longarmers who work on commission; just do your research if you go that route. Also if it's a smaller quilt you can do it on a home machine and have total control. I mostly send mine off to longarmers because I'm usually sick of looking at the drat things by the time they're done. A two week break lets me fall back in love. HodjasBitch posted:All done! there wolf posted:You just get your finger tips glued back on and you're good to go.
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May 14, 2016 16:47
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Yeah don't do that. It's a great way to get long term tissue damage and usually doesn't seal the cut well enough to be of use, and then you can't get stitches because too much time has elapsed/you have too much crap in it. I have seen too many injuries made worse by super glue; if you think you need stitches, you have max 4 hours to make it happen.
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May 14, 2016 17:44
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The standard tip on sewing chiffon (Besides "don't") is that if you sew seams with tissue paper between the seam and the feed dogs, you're much more likely to sew an even and unpuckered seam. The other standard tip is "Never sew chiffon under time pressure, because the stuff is psychic, malevolent, and will find a way to gently caress you up."
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May 14, 2016 20:54
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So here's the finished lobster quilt I wished I spaced the lobsters out to be more legible, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with it. Made the mistake of using a batik for binding and now my fingers hate me. Speaking of finger hate... coyo7e posted:As an aside, this actually really works quite well. I cut about 1/4" off the tip of my thumb dicing potatoes once, and after the bleeding slowed, fake skin was pretty much worthless. Superglue burns like heck but it worked really well and covered the injury with a nice hard shell for a couple days, which meant I could use my hand normally without limited use of me hand because of the injury or any pain. I added a tube of crazy glue to all my first aid kits. That burning was irritation from the chemicals and heat from the curing process doing more damage to the wound. If you wont go to an actual doctor when you cut parts of yourself off, at least invest in actual surgical grade adhesives. Also I'm probably just going to glue the gently caress out of that chiffon and hope it holds up the hour or so I need it to.
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May 17, 2016 04:38
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there wolf posted:Is it possible to work with chiffon without a serger? I'm making a cape and I just need a way to keep the cut edges from fraying too badly, and to attach cuff and a collar essentially. Get some fusible wash-away interfacing. It'll let you sew the chiffon like it was canvas, then washes away magically and it's back to being chiffon! Last time I had to work chiffon I got a ball hem foot for my industrial machine and actually raised the feed dogs because the ball hem foot blocks half of them. If you're not on an industrial, disregard this. I'm pretty sure they don't make ball hem feet for domestics. Domestics have the inferior (imo) rolled hem foot. They're inferior because they're more fussy about feeding material into them.
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May 17, 2016 18:32
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I love the lobster quilt. Your use of color is fabulous. Talk to me about why batiks make bad bindings?
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May 17, 2016 18:57
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Batiks make perfectly fine bindings, they're just harder to sew by hand because the tighter weave is more difficult to put a needle through. For that reason a lot of people avoid using them in bindings, appliques, foundation piecing, or any other handwork.
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May 17, 2016 19:33
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Made a first communion dress out of three existing dresses that belonged to the family members of the girl wearing the dress.  
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May 20, 2016 02:27
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Alright, I've got to make a class for work so I'm using you all as guinea pigs. String piecing! This is a technique whereby you sew strips of fabric together onto a foundation to stabilize the block. It's sort of a precursor to foundation/paper piecing, and is a great way to use up small pieces or incorporate stretchier or more fray-prone fabrics into your quilt. A popular example is the selvage quilt, where strips of selvage are sewn down to a muslin square to create stable blocks that can be quilted over. In my sample I'm using a collection of lawns and voiles, fine cotton fabrics that are lighter and slicker than normal quilting cottons. Once you pick your fabric you need to choose the stabilizer best for the project, starting with choosing whether it's staying in or being removed when the blocks/top is done. If you're working with exceptionally small pieces like selvages, or different fabrics with a variety of weights, stretch, and fraying then it's probably best to go with a stay-in stabilizer so your top remains secure and even throughout the quilting process; stay-in stabilizers are muslin, batting if you want to do a quilt-as-you-go, or even some old fabric that you don't like and won't show through. If you're working with bigger pieces, let's say 2" or more, and everything is pretty even as far as stretch/weight/fray then you might choose something removable . For my sample I went with tear-away stabilizer, but there is also wash-away. I don't really recommend fusibles because of the nature of the technique, but other people do so it's probably just a matter of personal choice. If you want to test it out, get some 1-sided fusible and do a block on the glue side, and a block on the non-glue side. Now that we have our fabric and fusible it's time to start making blocks.  I've chosen a very simple stripe pattern set on the bias. My foundation squares are cut slightly bigger than I want my final blocks to be with the center line marked. I worked out my strip length ahead of time, but all you need to remember is that the next strip just needs to be longer than outer edge of the previous strip/next chunk of your square.  I take my first strip and lay it face up, parallel to but a quarter inch over the center line. I take my second strip and place it face-down on the first so they are right-sides together. I sew a quarter inch seam from the edge. If I've done it right then my seam should be exactly on the center line.  I then iron the two pieces open. Repeat the process. Place the next strip onto the last sewn one, outside edges lining up and right-sides together, and sewing a quarter inch from the outside edge. Keep going until your square is totally covered.  You'll end up with this awkward thing that you'll trim down into your actual block.  If you want keep the perfect bias (maybe you don't!) Then line up the 90o angle on your ruler with the center seam and cut.  One down, 39 more to go. 
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May 29, 2016 21:20
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Holy poo poo, that is awesome, thank you for the effortpost. I have a jelly roll that I was going to pad out with some solid fabric, I think I'll do this with it. E: if you weren't using stabilizer, would it be enough that all your fabric is the same? BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 22:05 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 22:02
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This is incredible, and finally gives me something to do with all the little bits of leftover fabric that are too small for garment sewing, but that I refuse to throw away anyway. Summer project, here we go!!! I've also got a cute little eyelet sundress going. I'm planning on underlining it. Tutorial I read recommended hand basting each piece, then machine basting, then going to work. Sound about right?
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May 30, 2016 12:22
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Oh cool! I always wondered how those selvedge quilts are made. Thank you for the writeup!
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May 30, 2016 18:19
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NancyPants posted:Holy poo poo, that is awesome, thank you for the effortpost. I have a jelly roll that I was going to pad out with some solid fabric, I think I'll do this with it. It's enough if your fabric is fairly similar. Unless you're literally piecing blocks out of 1" strips, old clothes, or grammy's ancient stash of flour sacks, stabilizers area bit overkill as far as securing fabric and seams. That being said, this is not the technique I'd use for what you want to do. It's a lot of work and waste when you aren't starting with scraps too small for anything else. If you're starting with a jelly roll and yardage then I'd go with tube piecing which is where you sew your strips together first and then cut them into squares. Here's a Cozy Quilts tutorial explaining it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj1HQ1WzHdI and a Missouri Star tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOWSp0mTTqE that goes into a lot more detail and also shows how to use just a regular ruler. Too small for garment sewing? No such thing! 
there wolf fucked around with this message at 19:40 on May 30, 2016 |
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May 30, 2016 19:34
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Those are super slick, thanks for showing me those. I have no sewing vocab yet so getting pointed to techniques is really helpful for me.
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May 30, 2016 20:12
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Hey quilters, I have a question. I have this gigantic quilt top that I'm finally getting the courage up to sandwich and quilt. Thing is, I'm awful at free quilting with a machine, and honestly it's too big to comfortably fit in my machine if I'm sewing at the center, and I have a big old Brother industrial so that's saying something. I want to quilt it myself and not send it off to someone to do, so that leaves hand quilting. I'd like to hand quilt it with a sort of macro size stitch and motifs - stitches maybe 1/4" or more long, working interesting patterns into it based on the region of the quilt (there's a sort of earth-air-water theme going on I'd like to reflect in the quilting). Essentially it'll be like sashiko quilting but through layers and with more free-form design and curves. Will large quilting like that work? I mean, yarn tying works, so it's okay for things to be wider spaced and larger stitched than traditional, right? This quilt will be dry clean only anyway due to the number of unknowable fabrics in it.
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Jun 1, 2016 19:16
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