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HalloKitty posted:I readily admit it's a weird memory configuration, and never one I'd aim for if I was building a machine, but it might be OK. Jago posted:I've been under the impression for a number of years that dual channel memory doesn't make much of a difference for most applications. See these Xbitlabs application benchmarks for details. Note that the graphs start at dual-channel DDR3-1333 CL9, you'll have to imagine how slow performance would be in single-channel. Gaming performance is more illuminating, and that's using a dedicated graphics card with its own memory rather than onboard. Alereon fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 18:02
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The things you link don't test dual channel versus single channel though? I don't know why I should simply imagine the results that you want it to have. The benchmarks you linked shows that increased memory speed/latency leads to increased performance everything else being equal. http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/does-dual-channel-memory-make-difference-in-gaming-performance/7/ This is another thing that seems to agree with what I thought. The computer we're talking about also is not using DDR4 so I don't know why you brought that into the discussion. Here's a link that is a BIT more on your side, but shows irrelevance for most tasks. Should you do any of the highlighted tasks frequently then dual channel is a for sure bet, otherwise, not a difference http://www.anandtech.com/show/8672/lenovo-thinkstation-p300-workstation-review-haswell-plus-quadro/6 Like you also suggested, it's a pretty big deal if you are using integrated graphics. http://nucblog.net/2015/09/dual-channel-vs-single-channel-does-it-matter/0 At the end of the day, the dude that was about to open up his power supply to see how many pins are inside probably shouldn't worry about his memory configuration at this point. LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 18:35
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Geemer posted:Please don't open up your PSU unless you know how to handle high voltage electronics. If it has a 6-pin cable will be along the wires that come out of it, leading into the computer case.  Thanks for weighing in on this, guys. I do appreciate it. melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 18:44
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melon cat posted:Yeah, I don't want to go around messing with that bit. I've done my own build before, and when I saw those cables going into that enclosure I knew that I wasn't dealing with anything that was meant to be easily-modified. Lenovo corporate workstations don't seem like they're meant to be upgraded in any meaningful way. It really sounds like I either need to to do a new build completely (IT won't let us do that, and neither will our office's budget), or just up the RAM from 16GB to 32GB. The joy of vendor-supplied, proprietary worksations. Do you have an SSD in there? It might be a better upgrade than going all the way to 32GB of RAM, depends on what you're doing though. It also would be a good idea to try using the intel graphics, just make sure to get drivers for it.
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Apr 17, 2016 18:49
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Jago posted:Do you have an SSD in there? It might be a better upgrade than going all the way to 32GB of RAM, depends on what you're doing though. It also would be a good idea to try using the intel graphics, just make sure to get drivers for it. I'll look into using Intel graphics, though! melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 18:56
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Jago posted:The things you link don't test dual channel versus single channel though? I don't know why I should simply imagine the results that you want it to have. The benchmarks you linked shows that increased memory speed/latency leads to increased performance everything else being equal. quote:http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/does-dual-channel-memory-make-difference-in-gaming-performance/7/ This is another thing that seems to agree with what I thought. quote:Here's a link that is a BIT more on your side, but shows irrelevance for most tasks. Should you do any of the highlighted tasks frequently then dual channel is a for sure bet, otherwise, not a difference quote:At the end of the day, the dude that was about to open up his power supply to see how many pins are inside probably shouldn't worry about his memory configuration at this point. I'm not directing this at you specifically, but it astounds and frustrates me that the myth that memory bandwidth doesn't impact performance is still around. A few years back when only a few applications benefited much and faster memory cost more it was debatable, but now it's a huge difference and you can find benchmarks anywhere to show this.
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Apr 17, 2016 19:31
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This may not be the right place for this question, but is there a goon-approved cable modem for use on Comcast? We're going to be moving this week and I figured it's a good time to get my own equipment. VVVV Ah, yeah that makes sense; I was thinking it was just routers and switches and didn't bother to check.  Thanks!
plainswalker75 fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 19, 2016 01:48
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plainswalker75 posted:This may not be the right place for this question, but is there a goon-approved cable modem for use on Comcast? We're going to be moving this week and I figured it's a good time to get my own equipment. The Home Network's OP covers this well. Short answer: Depending on your speed/budget, Arris/Motorola SB6141, SB6183 or SB6190.
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Apr 19, 2016 01:56
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Random thought of the day: We know that a CPU can last for decades if treated right: no extreme overclocking/overvolting. However, when most of us turn our PC on in the morning the CPU core is going from 18°C to 60°C plus in the space of a minute. This sort of repeated temperature change over time should be enough to degrade most circuit boards, so how come a CPU can handle it?
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Apr 19, 2016 04:28
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DeaconBlues posted:Random thought of the day: This is why https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon
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Apr 19, 2016 09:27
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Fair enough. I should've changed the opening line to 'stupid thought of the day'.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:00
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So I built my current machine a while ago and (stupidly) didn't ask anything in the PC parts picking thread, largely because I didn't know it existed at the time. I'm extremely happy with it at the moment, it runs smoothly and is pretty much a total joy to interact with compared to the 6 year old HP laptop that it replaced, but I picked a couple of parts which seem to be on the goon consensus shitlist (MSI motherboard, CX series PSU). I'm not so worried about the Motherboard, but I've heard the CX series have some stability issues. I gave myself an extra 50 watts on the recommended wattage given my system's TDP, using a PSU rated for 600 watts instead of 550, but I'm still antsy about PSU things since I'm well aware that they're the one thing you really don't want to have issues with. Trawling the web gives a variety of opinions as to the seriousness of the issue but no solid answers. Are the issues with the CX series bad enough that it's a case of "pull it out now and replace it" or is it just something which is suboptimal but can be lived with?
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Apr 20, 2016 13:46
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The Parts PickingThread is its own unique community and sometimes has weird opinions. Corsair CX-series PSUs are not bad, they're just not great especially for high-end systems. They're miles ahead of the generic power supplies that are actually dangerous. That said, you cut it really close with the wattage, never buy a power supply below 650W as on most brands they start cutting corners on quality below this point. Similarly, MSI motherboards are actually second best behind Asus, they're far better than Gigabyte or even the Asrock boards the Parts Picking Megathread sometimes likes.
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Apr 20, 2016 13:52
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Gavrilo Princip posted:So I built my current machine a while ago and (stupidly) didn't ask anything in the PC parts picking thread, largely because I didn't know it existed at the time. I'm extremely happy with it at the moment, it runs smoothly and is pretty much a total joy to interact with compared to the 6 year old HP laptop that it replaced, but I picked a couple of parts which seem to be on the goon consensus shitlist (MSI motherboard, CX series PSU). CX series are unspectacular, and the thread recommends better; but it's probably not any kind of imminent issue. MSI is a brand that's recommended often; for motherboards and graphics cards, so I don't think you've made a mistake there.
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Apr 20, 2016 14:04
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Alereon posted:The Parts PickingThread is its own unique community and sometimes has weird opinions. Corsair CX-series PSUs are not bad, they're just not great especially for high-end systems. They're miles ahead of the generic power supplies that are actually dangerous. That said, you cut it really close with the wattage, never buy a power supply below 650W as on most brands they start cutting corners on quality below this point. Similarly, MSI motherboards are actually second best behind Asus, they're far better than Gigabyte or even the Asrock boards the Parts Picking Megathread sometimes likes. Thanks for the heads up, I figured that the dislike for MSI boards was down to the Killer NIC stuff but that can be fixed. I don't know if I'd call it a truly "high end" system, it's running an Intel i5 4690k (not overclocked) and an MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G. As I said, I gave it a bit of headroom over the "recommended wattage" for that TDP so I'm not sure if I should be worried, although "cutting it close" doesn't fill me with much confidence. Edit: Should also mention that I've stress tested everything a bunch of times and had no issues pop up, but I also know that stuff like caps can degrade and my primary worry is not of an imminent failure but something going "pop" far sooner than it should. Gavrilo Princip fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Apr 20, 2016 |
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Apr 20, 2016 14:08
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I would think a 600watt PS would have plenty of headroom when paired with a 970 and 4690K. Doesn't that combo draw ~450watts max?
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Apr 20, 2016 14:39
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JnnyThndrs posted:I would think a 600watt PS would have plenty of headroom when paired with a 970 and 4690K. Doesn't that combo draw ~450watts max? Yeah, I don't see that as needing anything over a decent 600W. I mean, if it was some ebay special $10 600W, yeah, but even the CX are still just fine compared to most. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Apr 20, 2016 14:55
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Thanks for the advice guys, that's put my mind at ease.
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Apr 20, 2016 16:38
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JnnyThndrs posted:I would think a 600watt PS would have plenty of headroom when paired with a 970 and 4690K. Doesn't that combo draw ~450watts max?
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Apr 20, 2016 17:54
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I guess there isn't a good slimline over about 250w then. What about if I build a "tray" and have the psu outside of the case, wires going in? Can I ground it correctly so I don't die?
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Apr 20, 2016 21:10
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What are good wireless headsets too look at that aren't insanely expensive (£30-40)?
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Apr 21, 2016 07:39
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Maytag posted:I guess there isn't a good slimline over about 250w then. What about if I build a "tray" and have the psu outside of the case, wires going in? Can I ground it correctly so I don't die? I don't really see any third party LFX power supplies around. There's Flex ATX with good power output but they're a little pricey. The Flex ATX form factor looks a little bit different than the one from your computer, so they also may not fit: up to 400W http://www.amazon.com/FSP-24-Pin-efficiency-Supply-FSP400-70LQ/dp/B00SX4XDMM/ up to 750W http://www.amazon.com/FSP-Platinum-Certified-Industrial-FSP500-70UDPB/dp/B01AK9SPBG You could probably put a PSU external to the case and run power cables in, although it may be a little tight routing some of the cables all around. I'd probably consider it if the FlexATX looks too expensive or won't fit. Most PSUs come with pretty long cables. It seems like kind of a pain in the rear end to shoehorn stuff into the tiny case but it should work if you're determined.
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Apr 21, 2016 08:13
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I have a UPS that just power cycles. If there is any load attached to the battery outlet it will stay powered for about 5 seconds, then the UPS will shutdown for about a second and power back on again. I changed out the battery but it's still happening. Is this thing just dead?
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Apr 21, 2016 16:46
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FCKGW posted:I have a UPS that just power cycles. If there is any load attached to the battery outlet it will stay powered for about 5 seconds, then the UPS will shutdown for about a second and power back on again. I changed out the battery but it's still happening.
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Apr 21, 2016 18:23
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Alereon posted:Any load at all? It may just not be compatible with Active PFC devices, but if even simple resistive loads don't work then yeah I vote dead. Yeah, this UPS is just running a POE switch to some security cameras. Came home one day to the switch power cycling over and over again. Took it down and plugged it in with no load and it stayed on. Plugged in a small lamp and it started cycling again. Old battery showed about 1/3 the capacity so I replaced it but same issue. I'll pick up a cheap UPS at Microcenter on the way home, thanks.
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Apr 21, 2016 20:23
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Rexxed posted:I don't really see any third party LFX power supplies around. There's Flex ATX with good power output but they're a little pricey. The Flex ATX form factor looks a little bit different than the one from your computer, so they also may not fit: Thank you for looking - I don't mind spending up to 200ish if I can use this SFF pc. The Flex ATX won't fit, I can't go bigger than 3.25 x 2.5 here: http://imgur.com/a/7fwhg This also shows the difficulty I might have finding a case - the power and front USB are all a permanent part of the mobo. I found a couple things on ebay but can I trust them? sketchy1 sketchy2 sketchy3 The dimensions all say Dimensions ( W x H x D ) 3.2" x 1.7" x 6" but the image doesn't look like it would necessarily fit... Anyway I really appreciate the help, I can't afford a whole new rig and my old Dell 9200 can't be upgraded anymore. Edit: Maybe something like this? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817338081 specs http://athenapower.com/node/485 Maytag fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Apr 22, 2016 |
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Apr 22, 2016 02:54
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HardwareSecrets found that the 400W model was legit.
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Apr 22, 2016 03:12
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Ah nice. Should I worry about that compatibility list? This is a Dell 05XGC8 from a 3040 SFF.
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Apr 22, 2016 03:48
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I got a new HDD so I'm migrating data from my old HDD. It a couple TBs' worth and I'm 40% through with about 4 hours left. My question is, would this be going faster if they were connected to different SATA controllers? Here's my mobo: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77%20Extreme4/
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Apr 22, 2016 21:11
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Considering you're talking about TBs, I'm gonna assume they're mechanical drives. Unless your SATA controller is dying, it's probably being bottlenecked by the speed of the drives. E: Besides, you probably want to use the Intel controller for your hard drives because it's better anyway.
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Apr 22, 2016 21:26
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Geemer posted:Considering you're talking about TBs, I'm gonna assume they're mechanical drives. Unless your SATA controller is dying, it's probably being bottlenecked by the speed of the drives. It's been ages since I cabled everything, but it looks like I thought things through really well back then. 
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Apr 22, 2016 21:45
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So I wanted to buy a kit of 2133mhz "corsair vengeance pro" (god damnit even RAM has stupid gamery names) for my PC since I've been running into CPU performance issues that seem to be related to my lovely old 1333mhz RAM (only in some games though) and that kit is pretty cheap, but I'm not certain if my board supports it. It's a crappy old low end board, but it says it supports 2200mhz(OC) and I'm not 100% sure what that's supposed to mean. http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4150#sp That's the board, I mean it SEEMS like I can use that RAM but I just wanted to make sure.
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Apr 23, 2016 23:09
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cat doter posted:So I wanted to buy a kit of 2133mhz "corsair vengeance pro" (god damnit even RAM has stupid gamery names) for my PC since I've been running into CPU performance issues that seem to be related to my lovely old 1333mhz RAM (only in some games though) and that kit is pretty cheap, but I'm not certain if my board supports it. It's a crappy old low end board, but it says it supports 2200mhz(OC) and I'm not 100% sure what that's supposed to mean.
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Apr 24, 2016 02:42
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Alereon posted:That should work, it may or may not be able to run at full speed though. What games are you seeing performance issues with? Make sure the RAM is the bottleneck before you spend money, it may not make as much difference as you expect. Also make sure any RAM you're looking at runs at standard voltage (1.50v)! If you do get new RAM, update to the latest motherboard BIOS before installing it. I just wanna make sure I'm not gonna be stuck at 1600mhz if I buy a 2133 kit though. But yeah, performance wise I'm just not getting numbers that line up with other systems with similar parts. I've got an i5 3570k and a gtx 970, and in dark souls 3 for example I'm getting drops into the low 50s when other systems show a rock solid 60. Based on some of the more recent testing I've seen with RAM speeds from digital foundry and stuff, that has to be the bottleneck.
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Apr 24, 2016 11:33
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One of my case fans started making this really awful sound this morning. It's a sound like when you were a kid and you taped a baseball card to your bicycle wheel to make it sounds like a motorcycle or something. It's just this really loud and annoying grinding noise that I can hear speed up and slow down without reason. So I go looking and it's apparently either a loose bearing that requires a whole new fan or something needs lubed up? I've taken a short look inside to make sure there wasn't cables in the way and I cleaned any dust that was on or around it and it kept making noise. So it looks like I need to buy a new rear case fan for my Cooler Master HAF 932 case. My question is where I can buy a replacement fan and if in the mean time I need to do something with the fan right now like unplug it or take it out before it breaks something bigger than just itself. Or is it just easier to buy a whole new case (god knows I should upgrade my 5 year old computer case). (I can never manage to ask for help without sounding like a complete idiot, sorry)
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Apr 24, 2016 19:14
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cat doter posted:I just wanna make sure I'm not gonna be stuck at 1600mhz if I buy a 2133 kit though.
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Apr 24, 2016 19:23
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Ularg posted:My question is where I can buy a replacement fan and if in the mean time I need to do something with the fan right now like unplug it or take it out before it breaks something bigger than just itself. Or is it just easier to buy a whole new case (god knows I should upgrade my 5 year old computer case). Your case uses a 140x25mm rear fan. While not the most common fan size it is readily available from sites like Newegg or Amazon, or if you have a Microcenter store near you they carry several in that size.
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Apr 24, 2016 19:39
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Geoj posted:Your case uses a 140x25mm rear fan. While not the most common fan size it is readily available from sites like Newegg or Amazon, or if you have a Microcenter store near you they carry several in that size. Fry's has 'em too, if he's near one.
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Apr 24, 2016 19:42
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cat doter posted:So I wanted to buy a kit of 2133mhz "corsair vengeance pro" (god damnit even RAM has stupid gamery names) for my PC since I've been running into CPU performance issues that seem to be related to my lovely old 1333mhz RAM (only in some games though) and that kit is pretty cheap, but I'm not certain if my board supports it. It's a crappy old low end board, but it says it supports 2200mhz(OC) and I'm not 100% sure what that's supposed to mean. That motherboard only takes DDR3 so make sure you're buying DDR3, not DDR4.
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Apr 24, 2016 20:22
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Geoj posted:Your case uses a 140x25mm rear fan. While not the most common fan size it is readily available from sites like Newegg or Amazon, or if you have a Microcenter store near you they carry several in that size. Thank you, I'll have to go with newegg/amazon because I'm not lucky enough to live near a fries. I got to go into one of their stores once and it felt like the first time I went into a Toys R Us as a kid. Still wondering if I should disconnect the fan or if it's okay to leave as is until I get a replacement. I don't want it to cascade and break something else in there.
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Apr 24, 2016 20:25
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