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Scheduled July 10th for thunderhill as my first newbie track day. Gonna be hot.
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May 24, 2016 18:05
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ilkhan posted:Scheduled July 10th for thunderhill as my first newbie track day. Gonna be hot. Haha, nice knowing you. Do you have an oil temp gauge and/or a real coolant temp gauge? At least you're not FI (I think.) Wear wicking clothes and drink a gently caress ton of water.
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May 24, 2016 21:29
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NitroSpazzz posted:First race of the season went pretty well, 4th place both days. Saturday we missed third by less than half a lap but we did it to ourselves by not trusting our new fuel gauge/light and taking extra pit stops. Low turn out was a bummer with around 24 cars starting Saturday, we're hoping for more at the rest of the races this year. Saturday I was first driver and got to do two starts thanks to technical difficulties with timing at the track. Managed to get good starts both times and jump up to 4th right away. Sunday did a three hour stint and took us from 10th to 4th and had some really fun battles with a few cars. That would've been fun! I've only ever driven my own car around. Maybe next year if another track day lines up like that. I took some cell phone pictures of the track day on Friday & the race on Saturday: http://imgur.com/a/541l9 nm posted:Wear wicking clothes and drink a gently caress ton of water. No kidding. I went through about 3/4 gallon each day with temps in the mid-70s, and I was definitely still dehydrated.
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May 24, 2016 23:16
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 That 2002 was awesome. Talked to the owner and apparently it makes about 215hp and this was it's track debut since he bought it. He was running some quick laps. How ever much water you're drinking it probably isn't enough. Toss in a gatorade or something, eat some salty poo poo and have a banana.
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May 24, 2016 23:34
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Sigma X posted:Turns out what I thought was tapering was actually the brake pads cracking down the middle and ejecting half out onto the pavement somewhere. Good golly miss molly. Honestly, pick up a 1.6L Miata, freshen up the suspension with OEM equivalent parts. Throw on tires and brakes and have fun. She'll likely outgrow it but consumables will be dirt cheap and you can likely unload it down the road. Sorry that I had to bail quickly, there is a routine I get into while getting ready so I don't forget anything. There are like 20 things I have to do to before hitting grid. I drove like absolute garbage that weekend. I did sent a new PB on Friday @ 2:19.1, but I didn't come close to that during quals/races. Here is the race start. Haven't gotten any of my overlays done though. Green Miata is the only other car in class. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVkZ_1uv6EI FatCow fucked around with this message at 01:43 on May 25, 2016 |
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May 25, 2016 01:36
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nm posted:Haha, nice knowing you.
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May 25, 2016 01:41
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Really glad I didn't bother flying out for BIR last weekend. The Golf went through not one but two engines. Saturday it blew a hole in the block, Sunday someone had a brainfade and let all the coolant out during a pitstop... And I hate that track because it's just so boring to drive.
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May 25, 2016 12:53
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drgitlin posted:Really glad I didn't bother flying out for BIR last weekend. The Golf went through not one but two engines. Saturday it blew a hole in the block, Sunday someone had a brainfade and let all the coolant out during a pitstop... I swear that drat car is cursed, double when running at BIR. Was sad to see it off the track both days, a few of our drivers like running with it. Weren't you guys building a cheater BMW or something?
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May 25, 2016 14:10
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NitroSpazzz posted:I swear that drat car is cursed, double when running at BIR. Was sad to see it off the track both days, a few of our drivers like running with it. Weren't you guys building a cheater BMW or something? There is a BMW that needs to be built, but Nick and Kent seem to want to keep running the Golf  I think the issue is no one has the time to put into it right now.
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May 25, 2016 19:14
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215/40ZR-17 Azenis RT615K should be installed today, and some new rotors and EBC pads for the front are in the mail. gently caress do I wish I had that house already.
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May 26, 2016 19:09
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Yellow stuff? Also, I hope you never have to drive in the rain.
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May 26, 2016 19:33
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Phone posted:Yellow stuff? Greenstuff, because I don't know how well Yellows would do at cold temps. I've traditionally been a Hawk user. Hawk has some new product line 5.0 for their only Fiesta-compatable pad offering. And I used to run the old Falken Azenis year-round in Maryland on my Miata. We get more rain, and more severe here, but... I'll deal. The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 19:41 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 19:39
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Both Yellow stuff and Green stuff will melt on the track. I was able to get DTC60s for the Mazda2 and the caliper was stamped with FoMoCo, but it was also 100hp on 15" wheels. The Yellows we had on the Lexus held up OK, but that was before we had the suspension figured out and were rocking the 4x4 stance after we put the car on a diet. Also we could only do 2 laps at a time because we had various chronic cooling issues. Look into Carbotech maybe? The only vector the Azenis have over other brands is price. But the Ks are now a 4 or 5 year old compound and the tread pattern leaves a lot to be desired. If you picked them up for cheap, I can't blame ya.
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May 26, 2016 19:50
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Phone posted:Both Yellow stuff and Green stuff will melt on the track. I was able to get DTC60s for the Mazda2 and the caliper was stamped with FoMoCo, but it was also 100hp on 15" wheels. The Yellows we had on the Lexus held up OK, but that was before we had the suspension figured out and were rocking the 4x4 stance after we put the car on a diet. Also we could only do 2 laps at a time because we had various chronic cooling issues. Look into Carbotech maybe? They gave me an additional discount since the original size (205/45R17) wasn't available for months; I bumped up to the 215 size. I could've gone with R888s for $20/tire more, Pilot Sport Cup 2s would have been $240/tire more. RE070s are $110/tire more, and other than that, I got no idea what I'd be looking at for a streetable trackday tire. I may move to a different pad compound depending on how the EBCs function on the track and street. The beefiest pad I've ever had to use before was the HP+, but that was years ago. The Miata ended up with a BBK, and the BMW and Porsche both had pretty large/strong brakes from the factory.
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May 26, 2016 20:00
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EBC Pads are a joke and have been for the last 15+ years. Carbotech XP series is good, PFC 08s I've heard good things about, I'm a big fan of Endless ME20s if you're not street driving all the time, they're popular for Porsche/GTR/fat AWD cars. These are all pretty dusty brakes, but are miles better than anything EBC sells.
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May 26, 2016 20:00
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Sigma X posted:They gave me an additional discount since the original size (205/45R17) wasn't available for months; I bumped up to the 215 size. I could've gone with R888s for $20/tire more, Pilot Sport Cup 2s would have been $240/tire more. RE070s are $110/tire more, and other than that, I got no idea what I'd be looking at for a streetable trackday tire. I may move to a different pad compound depending on how the EBCs function on the track and street. The beefiest pad I've ever had to use before was the HP+, but that was years ago. The Miata ended up with a BBK, and the BMW and Porsche both had pretty large/strong brakes from the factory. The R888s (and NT-01 and RA-1) are 7+ years old by now. The RE070 is an OEM tire that's super old now, too. The Pilot Sports are designed to separate wallets from the Porsche, BMW, and Corvette crowd. The latest and greatest street tires: - BFG Rival S (don't recommend since the life is measured in single digit hours on track) - Bridgestone RE-71R (don't recommend since the life is measured in single digit hours on track) Last year's offerings: - Hankook R-S3 Version 2 (actually do recommend) - Dunlop Z2 Star Spec - Yokohama AD08R The stock size on the Fiesta is super bad, but going up to a 215/45 opens up a lot of options and it's not like you're going to miss the 3.4% shorter gearing with a 205/40. You know how Azenis perform, but this is more for next time or when the wife/gf gets a Miata. :P
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May 26, 2016 20:12
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We tried a lot of different tires last year and after running most of the stuff Phone listed we're back on the Dunlop Star Specs. Pad talk we're still running basic Hawk Blue pads for races. On most tracks we can get a full weekend (16-20 hours) and WRL teams gets a significant discount. I ended up tossing Star Specs and Hawk HPS on the M3 and 320i for this year.
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May 26, 2016 20:22
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Around here Ferodo tends to be the choice of brake pads for track days and racing. I don't see them mentioned here often. I've got ds3000s on my GTV6. Good pads, but lots of dust. http://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/
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May 26, 2016 20:25
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I would still definitely take an R888 over azenis. Or a set of discount hoosiers/contis on a second set of wheels for track use or something. Ferodo DS3000, hawk DTC-60, and CL RC6 are the track pads I usually recommend, mostly comes down to what shape you need because they aren't all available for every car. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:37 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 20:34
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Brake pad availability on the fiesta sucks. The rotors are too small and the e-diff never lets them cool down on the track. I've got hawk hps on the back and they're fine if I remember to turn off esc. The hawk street/race on the front tore my rotors to shreds and wouldn't loving bed in. The front right was squealing so bad under braking the corner workers were giving me the stink eye. I bought a cheap set of front pads for the street and ordered some yellowstuff to try at the next track day. Two track days and 8000 miles and I'm on my third set of pads and second set of rotors. Over the weekend I'm going to get under the car and plan out some sort of ducting.
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May 26, 2016 21:58
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Looks like there is a good assortment from hawk. Although now that I think about it a dtc-60 might be overkill and never get up to operating temp on a fiesta on street tires. DTC-30 would possibly be a better idea. HB725W.650 for the ST, and HB668W.567 for not-st. Change that W to something else for different compounds. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:31 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 22:25
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The DTC60's range is 300-1500F iirc. They have a handy chart on the website. Usually by the second stop, the 60s are up to temp on the street which is fine for driving to the track on them. The HT-10s I would skate by the first 4 stop signs/lights if I had a brain fart.
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May 26, 2016 22:31
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jamal posted:I would still definitely take an R888 over azenis. Or a set of discount hoosiers/contis on a second set of wheels for track use or something. I'm kind of doing the minimum necessary to shore up the weak points of the car on a reasonable budget. If I had the option/space to buy a second set of wheels and track-only tires (and race-only pads that I swapped out at the track), then I'd already have my own home and garage. The only track-only car I've ever owned was a 1992 BMW 325is which I bought with the intention of using it for a Lemons team, stored at a performance shop, and didn't touch for two years; eventually transferring the title to the owner of the shop, who was still trying to find enough people to put together a Lemons team. Since I'm currently in active negotiations to buy a house with a garage, when/if that does happen, I'll probably be looking at getting a different daily driver and a track-day-only car (hello, again, Mr. Miata) with a trailer.
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May 26, 2016 22:53
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DTC60s are my goto, I run those on my M3. I think next time I will look for alternatives with less initial torque (ie better modulation), but I just swapped to Porsche front calipers and it turns out there actually aren't many options for those. Whoops. Favourite trackday tire is still the NT01. jamal posted:Looks like there is a good assortment from hawk. Although now that I think about it a dtc-60 might be overkill and never get up to operating temp on a fiesta on street tires. DTC-30 would possibly be a better idea. I've seen melted fiesta ST calipers. The torque vectoring absolutely destroys brakes.
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May 26, 2016 23:41
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I run DTC-60s on my STi. Great pad.
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May 26, 2016 23:59
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jamal posted:Looks like there is a good assortment from hawk. Although now that I think about it a dtc-60 might be overkill and never get up to operating temp on a fiesta on street tires. DTC-30 would possibly be a better idea. I believe the street/race compound is the same as DTC-30. The temp specs look the same. If/when the yellowstuff melt I'll try the DTC-60. Poor cold braking could result in a situation where the e-diff heats up one side while the other is still cold. I'm not concerned with keeping them up to temp on the track. At the last event I was checking my tire pressures and a bumble bee flew into the wheel. It didn't survive. 
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May 27, 2016 00:58
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Well, they are definitely not the same pad, even though they will both work at about the same temps. The -30 is likely going to have a higher and more consistant coefficient of friction, and will make more noise, dust, and wear faster. And it will probably handle high temps better but work worse while cold since it is actually designed to be a race pad. And even thought the DTC-60 says it works down at 300f, you don't want to be on the low end of the temp range of any race pad or it's going to shred your rotors while having a lower cf. Uh, anyway, before I start sounding too much like a hawk marketing guy, the real solution is to actually measure how hot the brakes are getting. Some of those temp indicating stickers are cheap and easy and will let you know if need to do something like add cooling or bigger brakes. They don't measure pad temp directly but will let you know if the calipers and fluid are bordering on too hot. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 17:44
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I'm running DTC 60's after phone badgered me into buying them after fading HP+ pretty severely. Not sure what temps the pads are seeing but I've got an El cheapo thermometer (Ir? Laser of some kind?) that I use mainly to check temp distribution across my tires (just looking for the distribution, I don't care about actual temp) and my front rotors have been 300+f after a cooldown lap. I have no idea how this correlates to pad temps, but I do know that the DTC 60's are easy to modulate and I can't fade them. They probably won't last long though...
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May 27, 2016 17:58
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TrueChaos posted:I'm running DTC 60's after phone badgered me into buying them after fading HP+ pretty severely. Not sure what temps the pads are seeing but I've got an El cheapo thermometer (Ir? Laser of some kind?) that I use mainly to check temp distribution across my tires (just looking for the distribution, I don't care about actual temp) and my front rotors have been 300+f after a cooldown lap. I have no idea how this correlates to pad temps, but I do know that the DTC 60's are easy to modulate and I can't fade them. They probably won't last long though... A set of DTC-60s on the stock floating calipers will last 2-3 weekends or so. 4-6 weekends for the rears. They're not bad on rotors, either. A fixed (but floppy as gently caress) 4 piston caliper gives the brakes 4-6 weekends on the fronts and halves the pad cost.
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May 27, 2016 18:06
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jamal posted:Well, they are definitely not the same pad, even though they will both work at about the same temps. The -30 is likely going to have a higher and more consistant coefficient of friction, and will make more noise, dust, and wear faster. And it will probably handle high temps better but work worse while cold since it is actually designed to be a race pad. From a lot of third hand reports, it sounds like the compound is the same, they just added chamfering and the shims to the Street Race pads. Apparently. Pad opinions are like assholes though, so who the hell knows.
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May 27, 2016 18:32
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Hawk has a chart of friction over temp range. This isn't rocket surgery.
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May 27, 2016 18:38
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Assuming a lot of things, yeah, the friction vs temperature charts Hawk and Wilwood (and nobody else I've found) help. *quickedit* And according to those charts, DTC30 and Street/Race are the same, apparently, maybe. The issue comes when you start asking questions like "OK, but how would PF01 or Raybestos ST43 compare?" or are looking at modulation or release of pads... or whether any published data is remotely, you know, accurate.
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May 27, 2016 18:48
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http://www.hawkperformance.com/compound-graph Huh, well, that seems lazy on their part. "check out this new pad that is actually the same as something we made 10 years ago"
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May 27, 2016 18:58
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I thought R888's were replaced by the new R888R
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May 27, 2016 19:00
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My thinking: In regards to the pads, I'm dealing with the Torque Vectoring System and track-hard braking. The only way to disable the TVS is to A) Completely replace the ABS module (there are no aftermarket or Ford Racing parts to do this at this time) or B) Unplug the data bus connectors in the middle of the vehicle, which completely defeats the TVS and ESC, but also the SRS. AKA "you cannot disable the TVS". There are two diffs available for the car at this time, of which the Quaife is regarded to be better, but neither defeats the operation of the TVS completely. There isn't enough empirical measurement of how much either diff helps, to be able to make a qualified statement that the diff would help dramatically. Some empirical research has already been done with stock pads as to brake temps on the FiST; temps of between 750 and 1000F have been recorded at the hub, between 1000F and 1250F at the rotor edge, and 250F on the caliper under track-hard braking conditions. A racing shop has produced brake ducts that can lower rotor temperatures by at least 250F. I could modify the front bumper cover and 3d print some intakes, buy the aftermarket brake ducts, and run DTC-30 pads and probably be alright on the street or track, and not chew through rotors. $350 in the short term and likely cheapest cost long-term. I could run with DTC-60s without other modifications, but would eat rotors and have to run some other streetable pad day-to-day. $300-ish in the short term, and likely the most costly in the long-term. I could get a Quaife and do independent testing to see how my temperatures vary with less engagement of the TVS, which has the bonus effect of allowing me to be faster. $1500 in the short term, unk. in the long term.
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May 27, 2016 19:14
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track day bro! posted:I thought R888's were replaced by the new R888R Not in north america...yet. A lot of tire manufacturers have stuff overseas that doesn't make it here. I know bridgestone had the RE-11s that never made it over here.
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May 27, 2016 22:21
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And now, so yall can laugh at how many times I miff my line: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q21QwUiQSq0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASxnwiWcuQc
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May 28, 2016 02:31
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Sigma X posted:And now, so yall can laugh at how many times I miff my line: I do not know the track at all, but your lines look decent to me. Could use more of the track in a few spots. Did you have fun? Also #kerbcrash4lyfe. The amount you move your hands around on the wheel is making me twitch. 9 and 3, one hand comes off for shifting, otherwise don't shuffle your hands around. Gives you a much better idea of what the front wheels are doing.
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May 28, 2016 02:52
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Looking to get into karting, probably just lapping and practicing at first and then potentially racing down the line but not super serious about that at the moment. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/snw/5602937843.html Does that look like something reasonable to learn on, or should I look for something cheaper/slower? I live in the SF Bay Area so the local track is the kart track at Sonoma.
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May 29, 2016 17:06
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King of all Machines Operate posted:Looking to get into karting, probably just lapping and practicing at first and then potentially racing down the line but not super serious about that at the moment. See if there is an active lo206 class at wherever you would be racing. I am looking towards getting into karting myself and I live in an area where lo206 is the most active class, it helps that it is a sealed engine that is relatively low cost. I've been doing arrive and drive at NCMP, look into seeing if anybody out there knows anything about arrive and drives. disclaimer: I don't know much about poo poo. it looks like simraceway has both lo206 for rentals as well as rotax rentals, make a day, go check em out! OhsH fucked around with this message at 17:14 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 17:09
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