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Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

Cojawfee posted:

I would have thought "gently caress it, If I'm going to die up here, I'm taking these shitlords with me" and sliced those shitheads to bits.

Ftfy. Is it self defence at that point?

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Rondette
Nov 4, 2009

Your friendly neighbourhood Postie.



Grimey Drawer
Ah, here is a reference to it. With some proper gory details-

https://k2bottleneck.wordpress.com/2010/05/10/chris-warner-talks-to-google-employees-about-k2/

quote:

A video of Chris Warner talking to Google employees about leadership is on Broadband sports. It is a year or 2 old but a really good one about K2. Recently, he was rescued off Makalu, so seeing his thoughts here on K2 were insightful.

Chris Warner tried to climb K2 in 2002 ,2005 and 2007. By 2002 he had climbed Everest so was looking for another adventure. He was asked to climb K2 as part of an expedition with 12 other climbers. These were supposed to be elite climbers. Instead he was to find out this was the worst team he was ever on. He said they would not have been able to organize a picnic it was so bad.

He said that the leader of the expedition was a former LSD dealer who had spent 7 years in gaol. When he got out he wanted to never sleep inside again so he organized trips to the Himalayas and Pakistan.

The day the expedition was ending, he saw a man fall 5000 feet down the mountain. When this climber hit the slopes he exploded red. He stopped 500 feet from where all of the climbers were. There was a red trail down the slope from where he had fallen. His whole body had parts in the wrong place. The body had to be wrapped so that no one could see it, it was so shocking. they wrapped 2 tents around him, yet still his blood poured from it. It was not till they wrapped a garbage bag around the body did it stop bleeding.

Like all other climbers who die on K2, his plate was taken and they etched his name on it. The plate is then hung on the Gilkey memorial, which is a cairn.

In 2005 Chris Warner had learnt his lesson from the 2002 and decided to do it with only one trusted friend. They reached 25,000 feet on 2 occasions but were stopped by gigantic snow storms. When they decided to leave the mountain, they were completely exhausted. He had lost 35 pounds. He was peeing blood. And on the way out he kept saying to himself he was going to come back.

Amazingly, out of the first expedition where there were 12 climbers, 6 have since died.

In 2007 he organized an expedition to K2. They put people on it, not based on resume but on their proven record. One of the guys he put on it was Don Bowie. Though he had never summited an 8000m mountain he had a good record in high mountains and was a rescuer. And another a guy called Bruce Norman.

They had three goals:

1. All get back safely

2. Summit K2

3. Do it a style they were happy with.

They got there at June 1st and there were huge avalanches coming down.

On the second day there Bruce Watson nearly died while climbing over an icefall. The floor dropped away and he fell 25 feet down a crevasse. He was only tied by a rope to Chris Warner that stopped him falling further. Then the ground below Warner exploded and he fell 5 feet down another crevasse!

In June and July there were many attempts to climb the mountain but snow storms stopped them each time. They had to put 500 pounds of equipment up the mountain like tents and rope even in these storms. They would push no matter what the weather was like.

At camp 3 things really slowed down. The snow was waist deep. They could only make progress of only a 100 feet in a day before having to give up because of exhaustion. Then they decided that a team of 3 was too small to climb K2.

Once all the teams had experienced failure and not made it past camp 3 they decided to team together. They knew that if they did not come together no one was going to make it to the top. All of the team leaders got together and came up with a plan. The plan was to leave on the 15th of July which was Chris Warner’s team 5th attempt.

Climbing to camps 1 and 2 they were faced with low visibility and snow and winds at 60mp/h. They had to continually do frostbite checks. When they got to camp 3 the problem was that all of the other groups had turned back when the snow storms hit on the first day. So they had to make a push by themselves, despite the waist deep snow.

The next morning the weather was crystal clear. They went so slow that some of the other groups caught up with them from lower camps. The progress was so slow they could not make it to camp 4 so they all camped at what they called camp 3 and a half, 500 feet above camp 3.

They reached camp 4 under perfect conditions. That left them about 2700 feet to the summit. They were carrying the 3000 feet of ropes needed for summit day. They gave out equipment to the stronger members of the other teams. There was planned a staggered leaving of the groups so the lead would break trail, then the next would catch up and then lead.

Warner’s team took the third leg as this was the most dangerous. He did not want others in charge of their lives at this stage. And after them, the Russian group using oxygen would overpass them and take everyone to the summit. Warner’s team was the only one not using oxygen.

They left late in the night about 11pm, hoping to be at the summit about 12 hours later. Drama happened early when one of the Sherpas fell down the south face and died. He was only earning $25 a day to lead the Korean team. He may have been trying to pass some other climbers, and disconnected the rope and then fell. He tumbled down the bottleneck and went 9000 feet down.

Chris Warner thought about what he was going to do after this but decided he would keep going as he felt great and had been training for this day all of his life. And the day was perfect. The Korean team though was in shock and they knew that they could not be relied upon to do their job anymore.

Without the Koreans they would be lacking some equipment. At one point they ran out of equipment. So they called for the Russians to take the lead much earlier than expected because they had oxygen and were a strong team. The Russians brought rope and with some others helped set up the route.

Eventually they reached the summit with many other members from other groups. It took 15 1/2 hours to reach the summit much longer than expected. They reached it at 4:45 in the afternoon. Of the 25 who left in the morning, 14 made the summit. The Italian team apparently had not been communicating with each other all day, so they became separate, yet reached the summit.

A Czech climber made it to the summit then told Warner’s group that he felt very sick. This left them in a quandary. He had been vomiting all day and was dehydrated.

On the way down, it turned really cold maybe minus 20. Then they saw 2 climbers at nearly 5 in the afternoon still trying to reach the summit. They tried to dissuade them making the attempt but to no avail. It was the Italian team who had poor communication all day.

As it neared 8pm, Warner’s group were reaching the end of the rope, from where there would be an easier passage to camp 4. Then they came across what looked like a piece of garbage but was the Czech climber. he had collapsed and was suffering from hypothermia. They had to drag him in to their tents, and not his because his was too far away. Warner had to give his tent to the Czech and the tent was cramped because it was really only made for 3 people.

Warner went to the Italian camp and the one who was there had summited earlier. The Italian had no idea where his other team members were. Warner saw that they were at the top of the bottleneck, and were at least 3 hours away. He suggested to the Italian that if his teammates were not there by 12 midnight, that they all go and rescue them.

One of the Italians makes it back to camp. The other asks where is his fellow climber and he replies that he is right behind. They then fall asleep thinking the other is fine. Then at 3 in the morning they wake up, and one decides to look for the other climber, but the other one fell asleep. Warner’s group were not alerted that the climber was still missing. After 15 minutes the Italian returns without the missing climber. They then both fell asleep.

At 7 in the morning a blizzard hit the camps. They knew they had to get off the mountain in case they were to get trapped at a high altitude. A Portuguese climber and then the Russians take off down the mountain. The Italians leave their tents and try follow the Russians but lose the tracks and return to Warner. Warner is then told that the other Italian, Stefano, is dead. he had not even a radio. What emerged was that the dead climber had been left without a radio so the other could use the radio to get back down to camp. he had been left by his partners for dead.

One of the teams was in such a panicked state to leave they left a pair of crampons. So someone stole a pair from Warner’s team. That meant one of this team had to climb without crampons in a raging blizzard.

As they make it to camp 3, Don Bowie, without crampons slips and breaks his leg. They have to get Bowie down and the sick Czech climber, and they are 2 days from safety. The plan is for Bowie and Warner to go first and make it to the safety of camp 2 with the extra sleeping bag. But when they get there 4 other people are in their tent. The Italians said that they could not sleep in their tent because someone had let the flap open and ice was in it. An Italian climber was sleeping in Bowie’s sleeping bag. But the Italian said that he could not sleep in it, he would have to wait a day. That left Bowie and Watson having to sleep in the other tent with no sleeping bag.

Eventually they all made it to advance base camp and some Czech climbers came out to help Bowie. The next day 40 people come from base camp and have a stretcher for Bowie. Four days later a helicopter arrived to take Bowie out.

Warner found out that later the 2 Italian climber who were with Stefano spent 15 minutes with his family on the way back. Way too small a time. Warner was so appalled he flew to Italy and spent 8 hours with them.

What they could not work out was why Warner’s team made it to the summit and back safely and tried to rescue climbers, while Stefano’s team did not try rescue him. The Italian expedition leader said that above 8000m it was every man for himself.

Warner said the lesson from mountaineering was that if you put your desires ahead of the team, someone was going to die.


Aha, found the quote I was thinking of here- (page 29)
http://faculty.darden.virginia.edu/clawsonj/COURSES/TACTICAL_LEADERSHIP/OB-0979_K2_CONDENSED.pdf


quote:

Bowie‘s fight to reach Camp Two lasted until 8:00 p.m. that night. Unknown to him, when he arrived at the small Camp Two plateau, his headlamp had fallen off and plummeteddown the south side of the ridge in the darkness. Upon arriving, he immediately wriggled into a
borrowed tent—something that had been prearranged between Warner and the Portuguese climber. Some of the American team‘s gear was already there, including Bowie‘s extra sleeping bag. The three Italians and the Iranian climber were already inside the three-person tent. Bowie asked one of the Italian climbers who was in his sleeping bag, ―Hey, would you mind if I used this sleeping bag because I‘ve got a broken leg? According to Bowie, he responded,―Yesterday, this was your sleeping bag, tomorrow this will be your sleeping bag, but today this is my sleeping bag.
When Bowie asked for water, no one would give him any.

That whole year on K2 was a massive clusterfuck.

Rondette fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jun 9, 2016

Gobbeldygook
May 13, 2009
Hates Native American people and tries to justify their genocides.

Put this racist on ignore immediately!
[urk=http://www.economist.com/blogs/economist-explains/2016/06/economist-explains-6]The Economist posted a short explainer about why Everest is so dangerous[/url]. In it's entirety:

[quote]SIXTY-THREE years ago, on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, news crackled over the radio that Mount Everest had finally been conquered, by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Since then more than 4,000 climbers have scaled the world’s tallest peak. Over 250 have died attempting the journey. In April, after the climbing season resumed for the first time in two years, following an avalanche in 2014 and an earthquake last year, six climbers lost their lives.

Everest is safer than most of its 8,000-metre sister-peaks, thanks largely to Sherpas’ detailed knowledge of the route. They make frequent sorties up and down the slopes to haul food and oxygen supplies. They rig the mountain with ladders and rope handrails to make it easier for climbers to plough through. On a “death to safe returns” ratio, the mountain does better than other lesser-trodden peaks, like Annapurna for instance (where one climber dies for every three who make it to the top; at Everest it is 1:30). In 2012, on a single day, 234 people flocked the summit to set a world record. In 2013, after a day of lengthy jams, 150 had reached the top.

But whereas rocky crags, treacherous cornices, thin air, and wildly fluctuating temperatures are common to most vertiginous snow-clad peaks, Everest’s troubles are partly man-made. The mountain’s two most popular climbing routes, one from Nepal and another from Tibet, are terribly overcrowded. Improved weather-forecasting tools allow all commercial expeditions to exploit the precious “weather window” that stands between them and the summit. Key portions of the routes are often secured with a single rope-line tugged by more than a hundred climbers at once. One misstep can trigger a domino effect. Any jam at that altitude can be fatal. Many dodgy local operators, eager to woo customers, skimp on costs, hire fewer Sherpas and enlist rookie climbers.

Until the 1970s Nepal’s government allowed only one climbing expedition every year. Today there is no such cap. Everest is a big draw for Nepal’s $471m tourism industry, the country’s second-biggest foreign-exchange earner after remittances. This season added $3.1m in climbing fees. Hardly any of it is used to rehabilitate the mountain itself, which is littered with garbage. New rules that call for banning inexperienced climbers are often discussed, but never enforced. A plan to lease out neighbouring Himalayan mountains to private companies that might lure climbers to other peaks, meanwhile, has yet to take off.[/quotee]

Mr. Funny Pants
Apr 9, 2001

Outrail posted:

Ftfy. Is it self defence at that point?

Yep. I'm not the least bit a tough guy, but if that had happened to me, I'd tear the loving tent down before letting those pricks use it.

Do most climbers carry a knife? I don't recall that from Into Thin Air or the other stuff I've seen and read.

a messed up horse
Mar 11, 2014

by Nyc_Tattoo

Rondette posted:

As it neared 8pm, Warner’s group were reaching the end of the rope, from where there would be an easier passage to camp 4. Then they came across what looked like a piece of garbage but was the Czech climber.

:drat: That's cold.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

Probably by that point

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


I'll take your tent-no-sleeping-bag and raise you sleeping-bag-no-tent

quote:

So, when the Italians approached the Mir of Hunza, Jamal Khan, asking for men to help with the K2 ascent, Mehdi was among those picked from the hundreds of aspirants who packed the royal court.
He went on to make a huge contribution to the success of the expedition, which turned two climbers - Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli - into Italian national heroes.

A day before their summit bid, Mehdi had been persuaded to help an up-and-coming Italian climber, Walter Bonatti, to carry oxygen cylinders up to a height of about 8,000m, where they were to meet Compagnoni and Lacedelli.


"Other high altitude porters refused. My father agreed to the mission because he was offered a chance to get to the top," says his son, Sultan Ali.
But when they got to the designated spot, late in the evening, the tent was nowhere to be seen.

Eventually, as they searched for their Compagnoni and Lacedelli, and continued to climb, one of Bonatti's shouts was answered. The camp had been moved to a point now beyond their reach. A voice shouted to them to leave the oxygen and go back down, but the darkness made this impossible.
Mehdi and Bonatti were forced to spend the night huddled together on an ice ledge enduring temperatures of -50C (-58F). Both were ready to die, but somehow they survived what was, at the time, the highest ever open bivouac, at an altitude of some 8,100m (26,570ft).
It would later be revealed that Compagnoni had deliberately moved the camp because he wanted to prevent Bonatti and Mehdi from joining the summit bid. Compagnoni apparently feared that Bonatti, who was younger and fitter, would steal the limelight.
The next morning, leaving the oxygen cylinders there, Mehdi and Bonatti descended. Compagnoni and Lacedelli then picked up the oxygen and went on to claim the summit.
Unlike his Italian colleagues, Mehdi hadn't been given proper high-altitude snow boots. He was wearing regular army boots - according to some reports, they were two sizes too small for him. Inevitably, he suffered severe frostbite, and by the time he reached base camp he was unable to walk. He had to be carried on a stretcher to a hospital in the town of Skardu, where he was given first aid, and transferred from there to a military hospital in Rawalpindi.

basically if you see an Italian on K2, kill them quickly before they try to kill you.

AceRimmer
Mar 18, 2009
WW1 gave the Italians permanent national mountain derangement syndrome. :italy:

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
Italians are pretty insufferable in anything involving competition.

Pick
Jul 19, 2009
Nap Ghost

Xibanya posted:

You should still be able to play; can you show me a screengrab? Also stupid hacky trick, try disconnecting from the Internet when you start the game then connecting once it's running.

It's telling me this doesn't exist any more on Mediafire?

twerking on the railroad
Jun 23, 2007

Get on my level
Apparently libertarian candidate Gary Johnson climbed Everest.

Xibanya
Sep 17, 2012




Clever Betty

Pick posted:

It's telling me this doesn't exist any more on Mediafire?

Ah drat, I'll rehost on itch tomorrow the way God intended.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

as a person who never leaves my house i've done pretty well for myself.

Skeesix posted:

Apparently libertarian candidate Gary Johnson climbed Everest.

How many mysterious deaths were there that season?

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius

Platystemon posted:

How many mysterious deaths were there that season?

I'm also interested in how many people died due to bootstrap related injuries.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
I'd say most of the Italians I've met travelling were pretty cool, but there was never any competition involved so maybe they turn into animals at the sight of a checkered flag. Or maybe it's just their climbers.

Take the plunge! Okay!
Feb 24, 2007



drat those Italians, they seem almost... Machiavellian :rimshot:

Robo Reagan
Feb 12, 2012

by Fluffdaddy

Cojawfee posted:

I would have thought "gently caress it, If I'm going to die up here, I'm taking these shitlords with me" and sliced that tent to bits.

Microwaves Mom
Nov 8, 2015

by zen death robot

Skeesix posted:

Apparently libertarian candidate Gary Johnson climbed Everest.

too bad he made it back.

Well at least we get to watch him make a fool of himself during the debates.*




*he streams the debates on youtube and his remarks about what he would say if he was there. Its really quite sad.

Sand Monster
Apr 13, 2008

The film Everest, based on the 1996 disaster, is on HBO starting tomorrow night for anyone who hasn't seen it yet.

DPM
Feb 23, 2015

TAKE ME HOME
I'LL CHECK YA BUM FOR GRUBS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnuzVyTI2uM

Pretty interesting talk by Anker at Google. Talks a bit about the Everest clean up efforts and goes into more detail right at the end about how he reached the conclusion that Mallory didn't summit.

JFairfax
Oct 23, 2008

by FactsAreUseless
You guys should really have a Death Pool for the Isle of Man TT races.

Five people have died this year alone:

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-isle-of-man-36505271

e/ although the problem with this one is the spread is a lot lower as avalanches and earthquakes are a lot less likely in the British Isles than the Himalayas

Pick
Jul 19, 2009
Nap Ghost

Xibanya posted:

Ah drat, I'll rehost on itch tomorrow the way God intended.

Thanks!

Josef K. Sourdust
Jul 16, 2014

"To be quite frank, Platinum sucks at making games. Vanquish was terrible and Metal Gear Rising: Revengance was so boring it put me to sleep."

As a thread we made it through another climbing season with a fair amount of infighting, theft and bad feeling but at least no one died. And we all saved $25,000 each. Good job, team SA. :) See you next season!

goatsestretchgoals
Jun 4, 2011

Cojawfee posted:

I'm also interested in how many people died due to bootstrap related injuries.

First oppressed white Christian male to summit Everest while carrying bootstraps (the sherpa was carrying them).

Xibanya
Sep 17, 2012




Clever Betty
:siren:It's here!:siren:



Get the latest build of #Everest, the game inspired by YOU, yes you horrible people, right here!

Changelog
  • Moved app buttons to the phone menu
  • Made gameplay flow more user friendly and intuitive
  • Congratulated winners of the 2016 Everest Death Pool in credits
  • Minor bugfixes and stability improvements
  • Some new inventory art assets by forums user Noyemi K
  • Paper doll box background color is now different based on who is being viewed
  • Added big obvious Continue, Rest, and Stop buttons to map window; disabled old rest icon
  • Replaced item hover tooltips with phone menu descriptions
  • Updated credits text to have new photo credits url

Also, I'll be demoing this game along with some other Team Dogpit stuff at the Let's Play Expo in Plano, TX, next weekend, so if you find yourself in the area, come by and say hello!

Got some massive changes planned (integrated fake social media and more digs at vegans!) but I didn't want to get too involved since the big summer jam is coming up. At any rate, I'm always open to suggestions, so if there's something you wanna see in the game, please let me know! Oh yeah, and bugs, tell me about bugs.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/11/climbing-mount-everest-no-oxygen

Anoia
Dec 31, 2003

"Sooner or later, every curse is a prayer."
How much would it cost to build a machine that sarcastically claps for people who make the summit under any conditions? One that can withstand the elements.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

as a person who never leaves my house i've done pretty well for myself.

quote:

Some purists maintain that it was not Hillary and Norgay that made the first “true” ascent of Everest, but rather Messner and Habeler. But this is to judge former accomplishments by today’s refined standards.

“Refined” my arse.

Climbing without oxygen doesn’t make the mountain tougher, it just makes you suck more.

If you want a challenge, and have a death wish, climb K2 in the winter.

Tuxedo Gin
May 21, 2003

Classy.

Everest is difficult and deadly without sherpas and oxygen. The teams that do it that way are actually legitimately climbing Everest.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

as a person who never leaves my house i've done pretty well for myself.
lol you’re not a man unless you climb Everest naked while carrying a human sacrifice for Chomolungma on your shoulders

Anoia
Dec 31, 2003

"Sooner or later, every curse is a prayer."

Platystemon posted:

lol you’re not a man unless you climb Everest naked while carrying a human sacrifice for Chomolungma on your shoulders

After wrestling a bear.

koreban
Apr 4, 2008

I guess we all learned that trying to get along is way better than p. . .player hatin'.
Fun Shoe
Did anyone get a screencap of the Everest game credits? I'm traveling for work and won't be home for 3 weeks to check it out.

Xibanya
Sep 17, 2012




Clever Betty

koreban posted:

Did anyone get a screencap of the Everest game credits? I'm traveling for work and won't be home for 3 weeks to check it out.



Microwaves Mom
Nov 8, 2015

by zen death robot

Anoia posted:

How much would it cost to build a machine that sarcastically claps for people who make the summit under any conditions? One that can withstand the elements.

Costly to weather proof it and power it at the top I'd imagine. Especially if it is supposed to go without maintenance.

Better to put it at base camp and have them press the button when they come back town.

E:


Or maybe you could have them push it when they go up, they get a ticket number like a bakery. and They return that ticket number when they come back down and are congratulated. Then it shows them what numbers haven't been returned :mrgw:

Microwaves Mom fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jun 12, 2016

koreban
Apr 4, 2008

I guess we all learned that trying to get along is way better than p. . .player hatin'.
Fun Shoe

I'm going to frame this.

HairyManling
Jul 20, 2011

No flipping.
Fun Shoe
This was an interesting thread. Wish I had come across before it was so late in the season. A question about Everest. Is the Everest climb a very difficult one itself or is it mainly the environment? What I mean is, say you could lay out replicas of all the tricky parts, but at sea level on a warm day - is it something that anyone with a moderate level of fitness could manage?

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

as a person who never leaves my house i've done pretty well for myself.

HairyManling posted:

This was an interesting thread. Wish I had come across before it was so late in the season. A question about Everest. Is the Everest climb a very difficult one itself or is it mainly the environment? What I mean is, say you could lay out replicas of all the tricky parts, but at sea level on a warm day - is it something that anyone with a moderate level of fitness could manage?

After training in stuff like how to use ropes, crampons, and ice axes, sure.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Jun 12, 2016

Minera
Sep 26, 2007

All your friends and foes,
they thought they knew ya,
but look who's in your heart now.

HairyManling posted:

This was an interesting thread. Wish I had come across before it was so late in the season. A question about Everest. Is the Everest climb a very difficult one itself or is it mainly the environment? What I mean is, say you could lay out replicas of all the tricky parts, but at sea level on a warm day - is it something that anyone with a moderate level of fitness could manage?

Ignoring the environment and weather, the most difficult part is the Hillary Step



so... probably not something you want to do without the barest knowledge of how to climb and some fixed ropes, but yes, most of the difficulty in everest is just the fact that it's ever so slightly high enough that you aren't meant to survive while on top of it. the weather also does a lot: walking across a ridge is "easy" until you're in 60 mile an hour winds and can't see anything due to whiteout, and one missteps means a long slide and then death.

I think the analogy people used in earlier threads for "why don't they help the dying people off the mountain?" was "Why don't you get blackout drunk and carry a 200 pound sack of meat down off your roof with a barely supported ladder in -20 C while a blizzard is roaring with 50 mph gusts and whiteout conditions?"

Minera fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jun 12, 2016

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
In those sorts of conditions being blackout drunk would probably increase your chances of success.

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Jose
Jul 24, 2007

Adrian Chiles is a broadcaster and writer
what are some good and easy mountains to climb in europe? ideally not very busy

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