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Rotten Cookies posted:Then again, I should be able to smell any difference. Isn't diesel also dyed green? (or red if you're cheating)
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Jun 8, 2016 12:33
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OSU_Matthew posted:Pro-tip, use hardboard on top of 2-3 layers of OSB for the bench top. Cheap, sturdy as gently caress, replaceable, and blissfully splinter free. Also much easier to find tiny lost parts and nails on hardboard than OSB I gotta second this as well. Hard board is great and really easy to keep clean.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:18
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I have all my 5 gallon cans marked BOAT GAS OIL MIX in sharpie even though they're straight gas. I did this after my unmarked cans kept getting stolen full of gas. People don't seem to want to steal gas with oil mixed.
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Jun 9, 2016 04:16
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I have all my 5 gallon cans marked BOAT GAS OIL MIX in sharpie even though they're straight gas. I did this after my unmarked cans kept getting stolen full of gas. People don't seem to want to steal gas with oil mixed. Have you considered chaining them to some concrete?
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Jun 9, 2016 04:25
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Seems appropriate for the gas mixup discussion http://kdvr.com/2016/06/08/drivers-pump-diesel-instead-of-unleaded-due-to-mistake-at-gas-station/quote:Last Wednesday, a fuel supplier accidentally filled the underground unleaded gasoline storage tank with diesel fuel How bad would your car be hosed? I'm surprised if people were able to start up and drive off.
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Jun 9, 2016 05:54
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Figure that people aren't filling completely empty tanks, I'm curious at what ratio of gas::diesel that a typical gas engine stops working. Also curious on the extent of the damage. Do you end up with uncombusted fuel in your exhaust that could cause a fire?
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Jun 9, 2016 13:31
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5xhPAundL4 At least according to 5th gear and a couple old british cars, it's probably not that big of a deal. Although a modern high pressure diesel would most likely end up with a FUBAR'd fuel pump.
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Jun 9, 2016 14:44
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Helping my dad clean out his garage. Wtf is this? He couldn't remember. Found it possibly with some lathe stuff. 
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Jun 9, 2016 21:15
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My first thought was "grossly overengineered Christmas tree stand", I must admit.
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Jun 9, 2016 21:38
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I'd say it is something meant to clamp a tube or circular object in place.
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Jun 9, 2016 22:46
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Anybody have a good suggestion for a string trimmer? We've got about 2000 ft of woven wire fence we'd like to keep the weeds and grass off of. I'd also be willing to consider hand tools if there are any good options there.
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Jun 10, 2016 12:38
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BrainParasite posted:Anybody have a good suggestion for a string trimmer? We've got about 2000 ft of woven wire fence we'd like to keep the weeds and grass off of. http://midwestrentalsinc.com/equipment.asp?action=category&category=97&key=wdbrnrlp Something like this will keep the weeds and everything else off your fence.
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Jun 10, 2016 13:19
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I'm refinishing a deck and step one is making sure nails are set below the surface so I can run a sander for removal and leveling. The nails appear to have about a 5mm head, but I can't find any 5mm punches or sets except some specialty poo poo in australia or england that takes a month to ship. I bought a punch set but I believe it's supposed to be for drifting out pins, so the end of the 5mm one has got a sort of sharp edge and even using a deadblow hammer, the thing bounces around like mad. It's profiled different than a tapered nail set, so I'm not sure if it's springier due to that, or it's a different material, or what. So the multi-part question is: is there a better way to set nails in 900 square feet of deck? If I have to do it by hand, is there some better method than a pin drift and deadblow hammer, or is there a better hand tool to use? All the nail punches I find at Grainger, McMaster-Carr, Zoro or whatever top out at like 3/32, and I think I want 3/16. I mean obviously the nail shafts aren't 5mm diameter, just the heads, but I feel like using a smaller punch is just going to gently caress up the head of the nail and leave me with rust stains (assuming they're coated or whatever). Maybe just setting them is enough to do that anyways, I'm not sure. The answer may be to just buy kneepads and deal with it.
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Jun 10, 2016 16:43
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The answer is remove all nails, replace with proper deck screws. I'm currently in the process of planning to re-do all my deck boards, and I can tell the original boards (which, despite a bit of rot, are IN PLACE and used screws) vs the ones the previous owner haphazardly replaced (which are now all lifting up because they were just nailed in place...and likely not even the right kind of nails, if the rest of his lovely DIY is anything to go on. I'm half expecting them to be roofing nails when I finally pull them up.)\ Edit: Which actually does lead me to a question: For the replacement of my decking, I'll need some sort of saw...I imagine I can do the crosscuts with a table, circular, or miter saw, but I'll likely need at least one board to get ripped for the last piece, so seeing as I own none of those saws, and I can only budget for one, a table saw would be the correct choice, right?
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Jun 10, 2016 17:09
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DrBouvenstein posted:Edit: Which actually does lead me to a question: I'd actually consider getting a circular saw here, because you'll be doing a lot more crosscuts than rip cuts. Table saws absolutely can do all these tasks, but I wouldn't want to do a lot of crosscuts with a table saw unless I could get a sled set up, while with a circular saw you can just mark your cut and then freehand it (or clamp a quick fence in place if necessary). The rip cuts will be more fiddly with a circular saw, but they're far from impossible. Plus circular saws are just a lot more portable than table saws, and a good circular saw is significantly cheaper than a good table saw. I mean, if you have other uses for this saw beyond this project, then that's potentially a different story, but for this one task I'd say circular saw.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:20
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Either a miter saw & figure something out for the one rip you need (borrow a tool, get the hardware store to cut it for you, buy a different width board that's already correct), or a track saw (which can be faster for crosscuts than a plain circular saw because it's easy to set up to crosscut multiple boards in one pass, and is competent at ripping).
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Jun 10, 2016 18:05
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I just snagged this jig for doing rip cuts with a circular saw, haven't had a chance to use it yet.
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Jun 10, 2016 18:16
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uwaeve posted:I'm refinishing a deck and step one is making sure nails are set below the surface so I can run a sander for removal and leveling. The nails appear to have about a 5mm head, but I can't find any 5mm punches or sets except some specialty poo poo in australia or england that takes a month to ship. I bought a punch set but I believe it's supposed to be for drifting out pins, so the end of the 5mm one has got a sort of sharp edge and even using a deadblow hammer, the thing bounces around like mad. It's profiled different than a tapered nail set, so I'm not sure if it's springier due to that, or it's a different material, or what. Get a length of steel 18"-24" by about 3/8" like this  then get a piece of pipe a tad shorter that it will fit into, so 3/8" I.D. so you want the pipe to set over the nailhead.Then get a mini sledge or a smacker like this  We used to use those in corners where you couldn't get a framing gun in.
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Jun 10, 2016 19:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:I just snagged this jig for doing rip cuts with a circular saw, haven't had a chance to use it yet. I own one, it works really well but you might have to clean up the edge just a touch if you're doing furniture making or something precise like that.
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Jun 11, 2016 00:57
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DrBouvenstein posted:The answer is remove all nails, replace with proper deck screws. You could do it all with just a circular on a barebones budget but miter saws start at about $100 and even the cheapest is going to give you easier cutting than free handing a circular in my opinion (though in particular I've never liked circulars, I'll freehand with the sawzall before going to the circular most of the time). $140 gets you both tools.
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Jun 11, 2016 01:56
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^^nthing craigslist Miter Saw plus an 18v lithiim ion battery powered circular saw. A decent contractor table saw is going to be big, bulky, and weigh >100 pounds, and you don't want to buy anything less or "portable" basically it's probably a circular saw bolted upside down to a milk crate. Miter saws are just much more handy for a variety of home diy stuff (unless you plan on woodworking). You can never have too many tools... Like me, right now I'm kicking myself for not buying that stupid hole saw set at harbor freight the other day. And now I need a 2" hole saw at 9:30 at night and it's driving me up the wall
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Jun 11, 2016 04:19
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Any recommendations on a Miter Saw?
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Jun 12, 2016 04:27
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Crazyeyes posted:I'd say it is something meant to clamp a tube or circular object in place. Well obviously. What I can't tell is (1) what that screw in the flat face to the left is for and (2) how it would work in a clamp setup, like how this thing would attach to anything else. I suppose you could clamp it sideways in a mill vise so that the cylindrical part is parallel to the Y axis... but I don't see why you would ever use this instead of a pair of V-blocks in the vise itself. e: I mean, just because I can think of half a dozen stupid, impractical applications for this thing doesn't mean that even one of my guesses is right. I assume whoever made it isn't a moron. Eugene V. Dubstep fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Jun 12, 2016 |
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Jun 12, 2016 11:42
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I think it is a steady rest.
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Jun 12, 2016 17:43
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bred posted:I think it is a steady rest. A wallet-size steady rest? With flat steel rubbing surfaces and a fixed center that would only work with one diameter?
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Jun 12, 2016 21:52
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Cithen posted:Any recommendations on a Miter Saw? Electric or manual? Wood or metal? 10, 12, 16 inches? You want to spend $99 or $1500, or somewhere between?
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Jun 13, 2016 03:50
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Cithen posted:Any recommendations on a Miter Saw? ^^ Craigslist I'd avoid the harbor freight miter saw that family handyman seems to love, my brother picked one up and it's chintzy feeling, doesn't stay aligned, and the motor sounds like it's ready to implode at any second. My old delta shopmaster felt like twice the saw, and only cost thirty bucks on craigslist
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Jun 13, 2016 04:36
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I just bought a house and I'm looking to slowly build up some tools. I think I will be primarily interested in wood projects for the foreseeable future and was thinking about an electric miter saw. I want something that will last a while, but I want to be in the range of ~$150. I haven't worked with power tools since my junior high shop class, so I'm brand new to anything tool related. The Craigslist suggestion is helpful, I'll check it out and see what I can find.
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Jun 13, 2016 15:17
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Cithen posted:I just bought a house and I'm looking to slowly build up some tools. I think I will be primarily interested in wood projects for the foreseeable future and was thinking about an electric miter saw. I want something that will last a while, but I want to be in the range of ~$150. I haven't worked with power tools since my junior high shop class, so I'm brand new to anything tool related. The Craigslist suggestion is helpful, I'll check it out and see what I can find. As a point of reference, I built 75% of the stuff in my house with a $25 Craftsman 10" Miter saw (non-sliding) that I got on Craigslist. When that got run over by a Jeep... long story... I replaced it with a Ryobi 10" slider. Now that I have one, I'm torn about what to recommend. The slider is much more useful, but so much bigger and harder to store. I've got a couple of friends with the HF 10" slider, and it's acceptable. It's not that accurate, but for rough stuff, or something where you have the time to sneak up on a measurement, it's fine. If you can wait, there's usually the Ryobi 10" slider and a stand for $200 on Black Friday. Maybe a cheap 10" for now, then upgrade later? Also, I'd highly recommend getting into a cordless system early. I got a Makita 18V system kit as a wedding present, and I've slowly acquired more tools in that line. Check Garage Journal's Hot Deals forum for good sales and stuff. I've hit the lottery with some of their posts, especially a Makita BL Drill/Driver/2x5AH battery+charger kit that got clearanced, but still counted for the "Buy a kit plus another tool, save $150" sale. Drill/Driver for $279, Ryobi cordless screwdriver for $30, apply coupon, $137 out the door. That's a killer deal, and there have been others. If you can wait for a good sale, and have the money to make your move, you can load up for relatively short money. If I were starting again, I'm not sure if I'd stick with Makita or move to Milwaukee. Both are excellent, that's for sure. If money is tight, Ryobi is a good bet (although Ken will chime in about their awful warranty), with lots of tools, lots of sales, and lots of bare tools available on eBay as people split up combo kits. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313832
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Jun 13, 2016 15:58
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For Christmas I got a a DeWalt 20v Li-ion set with two batteries, an impact driver, a drill, charger, and an extra hi-cap battery thrown in. A cordless set is definitely high on your list. It takes the hassle out of so many projects, and with the Li-ion batteries it goes full power until it cuts off, without losing power. Super owns.
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Jun 13, 2016 16:18
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Picked up a set of 4 micrometers in a case, 2 Starret, 2 Browne and Sharp. Some very slight surface rust, but that seems to be rubbing off with some 3-in-1 oil on a rag and some elbow grease. Still, I think it was worth 
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Jun 13, 2016 17:13
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This is the original, and they were heavy as hell cast steel. Before that, it was hand miter saws. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/5610946936.html
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Jun 13, 2016 17:22
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Cithen posted:$150 Best budget saw IMO is Hitachi. Stretch your budget a little and get the 12".
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Jun 13, 2016 18:05
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wormil posted:Best budget saw IMO is Hitachi. Stretch your budget a little and get the 12".
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Jun 13, 2016 18:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:This is the original, and they were heavy as hell cast steel. Before that, it was hand miter saws. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/5610946936.html Is it just me or is the blade mounted on there backwards? Seconding Makita 18v--buy the multi tool starter kit with batteries and a charger, and accumulate more as you need them. Hitachi also makes decent power tools if you're on a budget, and big sky tools always has hitachi refurb stuff available at a steal
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Jun 13, 2016 19:00
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OSU_Matthew posted:Is it just me or is the blade mounted on there backwards? Maybe that's why they are selling it -- cutting is terrible and it throws sawdust in your face.
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Jun 13, 2016 23:14
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I've got the 10" Hitachi, I've been very satisfied with it.
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Jun 14, 2016 01:20
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OSU_Matthew posted:Is it just me or is the blade mounted on there backwards? Lol you're right, the arrow on the blade even points rotation. wormil posted:Maybe that's why they are selling it -- cutting is terrible and it throws sawdust in your face. Hahaha. edit- actually, I've heard of doing that to cut soft metals like aluminum so the teeth don't bite, but somehow I doubt that was the case. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jun 14, 2016 |
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Jun 14, 2016 01:24
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Mr. Mambold posted:Lol you're right, the arrow on the blade even points rotation. Now that you mention that, I've mounted plywood blades backwards when cutting pvc trim plastic... Maybe that could be the case? 
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Jun 14, 2016 02:15
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Thanks for everyone's help. I will be looking into building up a Makita system since people seem to have good things to say. I'm planning on going to a shop that seems to amassed a lot of used electric miter saws today or tomorrow and see what their asking prices are. I've also discovered a community tool lending library in my area that is $100 bucks annually, which seems pretty unique and awesome. Maybe I can save up and watch out for sales in the meantime. *edit* How much should I consider brushless v. non-brushless when it comes to hammer-drills/drivers? I'm seeing these two deals at toolup.com and I'm wondering which to go with: http://www.toolup.com/Makita-XT248R-18V-Compact-Li-Ion-Brushless-2-Pc-Combo-Kit http://www.toolup.com/Makita-XT324-18V-LXT-Li-Ion-3-Piece-Combo-Kit Cithen fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 14, 2016 |
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Jun 14, 2016 13:24
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