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Man, how much power are you feeding into those things?
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Jan 2, 2016 00:25
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I have a Denon X1100W, so no more than 120W. The "suggested" amp power for those speakers is 50-200w, so they shouldn't have a problem. However, when I was doing a little digging, I think I found the supplier for their drivers. The tweeter in question appears to be: http://www.tsdaudio.com/en/driver/Tweeter%20models/D1S-CPF-41Y/D1S-CPF-41Y-B.asp As you can see, it's rated for 10W RMS. I'm far from an expert in speaker design, but that seems low for a two-way speaker designed for 200W. Edit: For the curious, these seem to be the woofers they use in the Intimus 4 and 5 series respectively: http://www.tsdaudio.com/en/driver/Woofer%20models/D4U-CAF-81Y/D4U-CAF-81Y.asp http://www.tsdaudio.com/en/driver/Woofer%20models/D5U-CAF-81Y/D5U-CAF-81Y.asp The 4 series one is the woofer I blew out last time. With an Onkyo TX-NR509. 35 watts isn't exactly a ton, TBH. It's the reason I bought the active crossover - I'm paranoid about blowing up the woofers in the 4Ts in my office. KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 00:51
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The tweeter usually gets a lot less power than than the woofers for any normal kind of signal (music, movies etc.). But I would have liked to see at least a 50W rating on it.
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Jan 2, 2016 01:01
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KozmoNaut posted:The tweeter usually gets a lot less power than than the woofers for any normal kind of signal (music, movies etc.). But I would have liked to see at least a 50W rating on it. Honestly, I would have liked to see Aperion give actual specs on power handling, rather than a vague "recommended amp wattage" range. I have a feeling they don't because they know it's not particularly impressive. Also, I just realized the waveguide on the 4C's tweeter is sideways. Presumably to save space, but still.  I never noticed, because I keep the fabric grille on mine. 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jan 2, 2016 |
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Jan 2, 2016 01:05
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It would be awesome to hear Jonathan's setup. I have dual 15" sealed subs that can move your bowels and pisses my wife off, and I know his poo poo can hit lower and harder. Anyway, I've been bored so I put some Hue lights behind my screen to illuminate the speakers. Too bad cell phones can't take good pictures, the blue fucks it all up, maybe ill break out the good camera once the setup is dialed in, I'm still messing with placement.  
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Jan 13, 2016 06:52
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Are those the Blooms? I want to add some Hue lights in my new place.
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Jan 13, 2016 19:08
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I've got a Lightpak behind my TV. When I had an HTPC, it was pretty cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGDw4LVuJ5A That video was taken before I finished my living room, and was pretty unoptimized. I eventually got it looking a bit better. Then I bought a ShieldTV and found out the region sampling only works on rooted android tvs, and apparently not very well on those. Pretty bummed with the support from the company as well, but I got it on sale for like $75/80 so it serves well enough as a mood light until I feel like rooting this thing.
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Jan 13, 2016 21:04
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Aeka 2.0 posted:It would be awesome to hear Jonathan's setup. I have dual 15" sealed subs that can move your bowels and pisses my wife off, and I know his poo poo can hit lower and harder. Those look awesome and remind me of the IMAX intro that shows off the speakers using lights. Currently theater is in decommission because $50,000 in water damage to kitchen directly above it! Also I'm going to be redoing the sub configuration. Right now I'm running 2 low tuned ported enclosures with Mach5 18" drivers off a behringer inuke4000, each driver at 4ohms. Changing it up by cutting down the enclosures from 12.x cu ft down to something small, and removing the port and replacing it with another 18" driver, sealed vertically opposed and wired together for 2ohms. So instead of 600 watts @ 4 ohms per driver I'll be pushing more like 1200 watts @ 2 ohms into 2 drivers per cabinet. I don't really have a reason to do this, but I did develop a small cabinet leak that gives me some chirping noises once in awhile if I'm listening to a movie really loud. I figure if I'm going to tear into a cabinet, might as well upgrade. 2x the drivers and 2x = 6db more headroom. Or another way to look at it, 2x the drivers = 1/2 the cone movement for the same sound level and possibly 1/2 the distortion ? Edit: bossobass's setups are basically the same as mine except I only want/need 2, not stacks of them. http://www.bossobass.com jonathan fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jan 13, 2016 |
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Jan 13, 2016 21:21
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Holy poo poo, is that all covered by insurance? I like those tubes, hopefully all goes well. I've yet to add more subs, I've got the two 15's running through an inuke 6000 that ended up blowing a diode, luckily I was able to fix it. I don't know if I should add two more 15's or add 18's. I've been running sealed since I just like the way it sounds sealed. I would be adding more only for the same reason you're reworking, just to make it cleaner sounding. I currently have no problems melting the floor. The lights I have are the Hue GU10's. I found some cheap modular track lighting at Lowe's that just snaps together in whatever configuration you need. The problem is the copper in the rails vibrates, so I've been battling the vibration with silicone. So I've got a total of 6 hue lights (3 in screen, 3 overhead) its nice for mood lighting and even putting the disco mode on is fun. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jan 13, 2016 |
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Jan 13, 2016 21:46
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Holy poo poo, is that all covered by insurance? I like those tubes, hopefully all goes well. I've yet to add more subs, I've got the two 15's running through an inuke 6000 that ended up blowing a diode, luckily I was able to fix it. I don't know if I should add two more 15's or add 18's. I've been running sealed since I just like the way it sounds sealed. I would be adding more only for the same reason you're reworking, just to make it cleaner sounding. I currently have no problems melting the floor. It's ironic, because people equate sealed subs with tight musical sound, and ported with boomy disorted sounds only for movies, however at a big blind subwoofer critique event a couple years back, people picked the high end ported subs as the tightest and most musical over the high end sealed. I believe they chose the ported subs as the ones that sounded like sealed subs. What that tells me is that the enclosure style doesn't matter to sound quality (ie lack of distortion) as much as people like to believe. The enclosure style more effects efficiency and frequency range (and of course, space limitations) So when choosing a high end subwoofer, The factors should be; How much space am I willing to give up, how low in frequency range do I need, and how loud do I need ? Edit: yes insurance is covering it short of a rather high water damage deductible. I'm also putting in all new appliances at the same time. The steep price was because of the custom oak cabinets. The lowers swelled, and replacements cant be made to match the uppers, so the entire kitchen is getting stripped to the 5/8" plywood floor and drywall. Also this didn't just happen suddenly, it was a small leak from the dishwasher that has been going on for a long time, and finally saturated everything over christmas. jonathan fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jan 13, 2016 |
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Jan 13, 2016 22:47
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KillHour posted:
The width of the guide isn't the only factor. The science of it is beyond me, however with that specific tweeter, the increased angle at the outer edge of the sides may be directing sound across the tweeter, similar to the lens of a camera. So if you look at the off axis frequency response, it probably is set up correctly.
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Jan 13, 2016 22:51
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Here's my frankenstein setup that I've accumulated over the years. This is my TV room. Bedroom has a smaller wall mounted TV and sound bar beneath it, but I need to redo and fix the wires. 55" Vizio 4k Sony STR-DN1050 Satellites from my 10+ year old klipsch promedia 5.1 Velodyne CT-100 Subwoofer PS3/PS4 + games. Still need to pull out my old modded PS2 with hard drive. Dog.
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Jan 14, 2016 01:58
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jonathan posted:It's ironic, because people equate sealed subs with tight musical sound, and ported with boomy disorted sounds only for movies, Which is probably more of why I chose sealed, I've never heard a high end ported just poo poo car ones.
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Jan 14, 2016 02:55
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joe944 posted:Here's my frankenstein setup that I've accumulated over the years. This is my TV room. Bedroom has a smaller wall mounted TV and sound bar beneath it, but I need to redo and fix the wires. Looks neat. Every decent setup needs a good dog.
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Jan 14, 2016 07:32
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jonathan posted:The width of the guide isn't the only factor. The science of it is beyond me, however with that specific tweeter, the increased angle at the outer edge of the sides may be directing sound across the tweeter, similar to the lens of a camera. So if you look at the off axis frequency response, it probably is set up correctly. It's the exact same tweeter as the towers, except sideways.
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Jan 14, 2016 15:51
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Anyone here have recommendations for good 4x2 HDMI matrix with 3.5mm or RCA audio out for at least one output? It's for routing between a HDTV and a computer monitor. I've picked up this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4A245C (I accidentally bought the Ultra HD one even though I only need 1080p, whoops) and while it seems to work okay when using just one of the outputs, when trying to use both at once things get weird and the 3.5mm audio needs a lot of fiddling with in order to work sometimes.
Toad King fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 01:32
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   Panasonic TC-P55ST50 55" Plasma, got as a floor model about 4 years ago JVC DLA RS46 on Chief RPMA281 mount Elite Screens CineTension2 84" 16:9 Marantz NR1403 5.1 receiver Axiom M60 v3 floorstanding mains, got on a nice discount as B stock Axiom EP125 v4 sub Axiom VP100 in wall center - I got the in wall just because it was the only center small enough to sit inside that compartment in the TV stand/entertainment center, works great though. Axiom in ceiling surrounds - can see them right behind the back row of lights in the 3rd shot, they don't appear to offer these anymore but they work well for this setup. Sources are a cheap "Mediaworx" tuner for local channels, Apple TV, PS4 and a PC that's sitting on the other side of the wall in the unfinished part of the basement. Logitech Harmony Ultimate remote is sitting on the table, I only want to chuck it through the wall every other time I accidentally hit pause and rewind at the same time and it puts the projector into 3D mode for no reason which spins up the fans to 747 take off setting. There's a 2x1 switch behind the TV to switch from projector to TV as the Marantz only has one HDMI out. I tried a splitter and two different switches (that had remotes) and all crapped out in different ways so dumb one button switch it is. Rocket League, Broforce and Towerfall: Ascension get regular play on 360 controllers, and with a big rear end projector screen you can kind of actually see what you're doing with 4 people playing (except in Broforce). Dogcow fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 02:19
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I really like that grey for the walls etc. Enough that im going to copy that for my setup.
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Feb 3, 2016 02:47
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jonathan posted:I really like that grey for the walls etc. Enough that im going to copy that for my setup. It's Sherman Williams' "Cyberspace" 
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Feb 3, 2016 04:25
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That looks great, agreed the color is awesome. Not enough people go with a dark color on the walls. I used a really dark brown on the wall our tv is on and when you turn the lights out watching a movie everything disappears and all you see is the screen, so much more immersive.
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Feb 3, 2016 17:20
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I almost used that color for my living room a month or two ago when we had it painted. Ended up going with a slightly lighter color (that I can't recall the name of) though. Matte grey walls with white trim looks rad.
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Feb 3, 2016 20:28
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I went with a dark brown as well, my wife says it looks like I covered the walls in poo, but she has no sense of style since she likes everything white with no contrasts.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:06
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I ended up moving to in-wall/in-ceiling speakers for aesthetic reasons. I thought I would see a big drop off in audio quality but I am very pleasantly surprised. I was previously running Mission 771s up front.   Equipment list: Onkyo TX-NR626 Sonance S625T Fronts Sonance S624TR Rears Klipsch KW-100 Sub It's a big open room so I could use more in the LFE department but the Klipsch actually does way better than I thought it would. Being corner loaded helps quite a bit. I like the cleanliness of the install with the in-wall and in-ceiling speakers and having the A/V equipment in an adjacent room closet is nice. Edit:    The rest of the setup. Patio is a JVC 55" running off the 2nd HDMI output from the Onkyo TX-NR626. In-ceiling speakers are Monoprice 8". They do a decent job for the money. The garage has a set of Definitive Technology AW5500. I have the powered zone 2 output from the Onkyo going to a Niles HDS-6 speaker selector which distributes sound to the patio, garage and my office. The office has a set of JBL L100s. I really wish there was an affordable speaker selector that is controlled wirelessly. It's a bit of a pain in the rear end manually selecting between patio, garage or office when I want to listen to music in those locations. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jun 10, 2016 |
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Jun 10, 2016 17:01
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How do the in-ceiling rears work out as rears? Do you feel like the sounds move overhead rather than behind when they pan into the surrounds?
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Jun 10, 2016 17:16
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They do surprisingly well. I think it helps that it's a tall ceiling so they aren't right on top of you. I do get a sense at times that the sound is coming from overhead but not often and with the open layout, conventional rears just weren't possible. Overall, I'm really impressed with the Sonance Syphonys.
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Jun 10, 2016 17:23
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Do you miss having a center channel? Are you the one that I picked on for mounting the tv that goddamn high? Aside from that the front speaker install and the rest of it looks really nice! With the ability to do in ceiling speakers do you have any plans to go full Atmos? And for wireless speaker selecting, I like the Sonos Connect:AMPs, but I know people will poo poo on them. I just don't think amp quality matters when going anywhere other than my home theatre or my dedicated stereo, both of which can use Connects to tie into the Sonos ecosystem. sellouts fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 00:44
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I'm running a phantom center (no center) and honestly, I think I prefer it. My previous setup was Mission 771 fronts and 77c center and the center overpowered things. Unfortunately, the layout of the house/room dictates the TV being above the fireplace. It isn't ideal but I've gotten used to it. Most of the time I'm fully reclined so I'm not having to look up. The next house we build will have a dedicated theater. I'll have to look at the sonos amps. I agree that sound quality is not paramount in locations other than the main listening area. The Def Tech speakers in the garage are overkill. I had them given to me or I'd have just done monoprice in ceiling speakers there as well. I like having control over volume and source with the Only I android app and wish I could control output destination as well. Edit: I stumbled across a thing! Wifi android app control of speaker selector: http://www.33snowflakes.com/blog/arduino-android-speaker-selector/ How cool is that? Scrapez fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 04:10
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sellouts posted:Are you the one that I picked on for mounting the tv that goddamn high? That was me, and I still haven't figured out what to do with the center channel. I really like Scrapez' setup, although I find it funny that he mounted the patio TV just as high even though he really didn't have to.
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Jun 12, 2016 17:08
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The builder installed the patio mount in that location. I could move it down but then I'd have holes in the masonry. I'm used to it I guess from the living room tv. 
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Jun 12, 2016 18:46
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I've been doing an entire house renovation and once the main floor is finished in about a week, I'll be starting on the basement. For downstairs I will be keeping carpet in the theater room, and redoing a bar and conversation room behind it (open plan). Before I start tackling new lighting (t bar/drop ceiling) is there anything to consider ? I was just going to do simple potlights but I'm wondering if I should do some sort of led solution instead. Also is there a dimmer switch that can be used that won't cause electrical issues with the sound system ?
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Jun 12, 2016 19:38
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Dimmer noise comes from lovely triac or "chopper" dimmer switches. These aren't really compatible with LED's, and going with a low voltage LED controller would not be noisy, let you dim, change colours, and allow you to all of the wiring yourself apart from installing the controller. If you really wanted to use incandescent bulbs and sidestep dimmer noise, you could wire up individual lights (or groups of lights) to separate switches for a crude dimming ability.
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Jun 13, 2016 02:32
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Smart bulbs are self-dimmable. GE link bulbs are pretty cheap right now because GE is changing the branding it looks like. Big expense up front to do a whole basement, but the bulbs should last 15 years.
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Jun 13, 2016 11:04
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Scrapez posted:I'm running a phantom center (no center) and honestly, I think I prefer it. My previous setup was Mission 771 fronts and 77c center and the center overpowered things. Get a mount that moves down?
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Jun 13, 2016 16:47
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It would have to be a mount that extends out from the wall around 12" to clear the mantle and then extends down. Is there such a beast?
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Jun 13, 2016 17:07
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https://www.amazon.com/MantelMount%C2%AE-Pull-Down-Bracket-Motion-30-115lb/dp/B014HYJEMY
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Jun 13, 2016 18:20
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Pretty awesome. May have to pick one up. $400 is pretty steep, though. Yikes.
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Jun 13, 2016 19:55
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That's the price you pay for engineering and China's finest quality pig iron.
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Jun 14, 2016 11:32
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I've got a question for someone more knowledgeable than myself when it comes to a/v things (read: probably 95% of people in this thread). I have an older Sony receiver hooked up to my projector. The receiver only handles HDMI pass-through for video, which until recently wasn't a problem because I used optical audio from my cable box/DVR to the receiver. Well, about 4 months ago we "upgraded" our cable equipment, and the new cable box does not have any dedicated audio-out, only HDMI. The receiver works beautifully, and I only use the projector sparingly for football, so I don't really care to buy an entirely new receiver, but was instead wondering if there's some sort of solution that will split an HDMI signal into separate video/audio outputs? In other words, is there some magical splitter/box that I can place between my cable box (hdmi out) and receiver (hdmi pass-through for video only) that will allow me to gain a dedicated audio-out, preferably in the form of optical audio? Then I could plug my optical cable into this splitter/device and into the receiver and regain my audio. Is something like this what I need? Sorry if I'm not using the proper jargon. Thanks in advance! tl;dr I need some sort of splitter with an HDMI in that has an HDMI out and optical (preferably) audio out. UGAmazing fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 20:52
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That's exactly what you need. Now for setup. Do you have the full 5.1 speakers or just two? Set up your cable box to output Dolby 5.1 or two channel pcm as appropriate, run the optical cable to your receiver and you should be good to go.
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Aug 6, 2016 23:12
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:That's exactly what you need. Awesome--thanks. Yeah I have a 5.1 setup. I'll get on ordering that, then! Would you recommend buying a moderately-priced one over the cheapest I can find? I figure spending $35 or $40 is a safer bet for decent quality than $10-15.
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Aug 7, 2016 00:44
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