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Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

CORN NOG posted:

Ideally, I'd like something light and small enough to be comfortable around my neck, but have acceptable enough sound quality for the 10% of the time I need to use the headphones. The Corsair seems like it might do, but the way the headband and mic boom are angled it's hard to get an idea from pictures whether it would work on my neck

I'm pretty happy with my Plantronics Audio 995 wireless headset. Good enough quality and comfort and doesn't use BT so doesn't have the potential issues with that. Biggest issues are that it will drain the battery if you don't turn it off and you can use them while charging. But if you teach yourself to put them charging when you stop using them it won't be a problem.

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ufarn
May 30, 2009
I've been over this on a number of other occasions, but just in case someone miraculously had an idea for what the problem might be, what could be the cause of a ~2Mb/s speed on a 100Mb connection with a network chart that looks like this:



I've had this problems across two ISP modems, so I wonder what else it might be. The antenna cable is connected directly from the socket to the modem, and I'm using an ethernet cable to rule out wi-fi.

Party Plane Jones
Jul 1, 2007

by Reene
Fun Shoe
The line from your house to the nearest ISP box is hosed (or the ISP box itself is)

Pikey
Dec 25, 2004
Can anybody recommend me a good bluetooth dongle for use with a dual shock 4 controller? I just purchased this one from amazon,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I'm getting poor signal strength causing the controller to drop out all the time. I'm only sitting about 10 feet away from the dongle, but my computer is behind me so line of sight is blocked by my couch and body. If I move the controller into line of sight the latency drops down to 1-2 ms so I think its just the interference that's causing it to drop out.

I also have a logitech bluetooth keyboard and mouse which work great in the same position without and dropping out so apparently they have no interference issues. The alternative to using the dual shock 4 is to just buy the logitech wireless gamepad but I'd rather not have to purchase another controller.

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

Pikey posted:

Can anybody recommend me a good bluetooth dongle for use with a dual shock 4 controller? I just purchased this one from amazon,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I'm getting poor signal strength causing the controller to drop out all the time. I'm only sitting about 10 feet away from the dongle, but my computer is behind me so line of sight is blocked by my couch and body. If I move the controller into line of sight the latency drops down to 1-2 ms so I think its just the interference that's causing it to drop out.

I also have a logitech bluetooth keyboard and mouse which work great in the same position without and dropping out so apparently they have no interference issues. The alternative to using the dual shock 4 is to just buy the logitech wireless gamepad but I'd rather not have to purchase another controller.

I have this one. Not that it's much help. I'm pretty much line of sight with all the devices I use. One thing I found at first was that my computer case isn't shielded. I hooked up my wireless devices through a hub and USB 2.0 extender and all problems were solved.

tuyop fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jun 20, 2016

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Pikey posted:

Can anybody recommend me a good bluetooth dongle for use with a dual shock 4 controller? I just purchased this one from amazon,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I'm getting poor signal strength causing the controller to drop out all the time. I'm only sitting about 10 feet away from the dongle, but my computer is behind me so line of sight is blocked by my couch and body. If I move the controller into line of sight the latency drops down to 1-2 ms so I think its just the interference that's causing it to drop out.

I also have a logitech bluetooth keyboard and mouse which work great in the same position without and dropping out so apparently they have no interference issues. The alternative to using the dual shock 4 is to just buy the logitech wireless gamepad but I'd rather not have to purchase another controller.

Don't bother, just use a cable

The ds4 is just bad over bluetooth on windows, its nothing to do with the adapter. I don't think I've ever read about a success story

Looten Plunder
Jul 11, 2006
Grimey Drawer
This might belong in some sort of A/V thread, but I'll try here first:

List of HDMI Devices connected to my TV:
-Chromecast
-Fire TV
-Steam Link
-PS4
-DVD Player

Number of HDMI Ports on my TV: Two

I think I found the part I need, which is a Multi Port HDMI splitter but these things can be hundreds of dollars. Surely there is a cheaper solution out there for what is no doubt a super common problem people have?

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009

xcore posted:

This might belong in some sort of A/V thread, but I'll try here first:

List of HDMI Devices connected to my TV:
-Chromecast
-Fire TV
-Steam Link
-PS4
-DVD Player

Number of HDMI Ports on my TV: Two

I think I found the part I need, which is a Multi Port HDMI splitter but these things can be hundreds of dollars. Surely there is a cheaper solution out there for what is no doubt a super common problem people have?

$15 too much?

You don't want a splitter but a switch.

Looten Plunder
Jul 11, 2006
Grimey Drawer
And free shipping to Australia? I'll take it!
Thanks

Chuu
Sep 11, 2004

Grimey Drawer
How stable are factory overclocked 1080s for compute? I am thinking of picking up a STRYX or FTW for gaming first and compute second. Are these like some overclocked CPUs that are stable enough for games but choke under things like IBT; or should they be perfectly fine for compute as well?

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold?

Also, when I’m getting 30+ errors during my second pass, I reckon I might as well hang up that module at that point, but I’m going to let it finish a second pass for now (given I’m only testing one module at a time).

ufarn fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jun 25, 2016

all_purpose_cat_boy
Apr 10, 2007

Hi
Looking for some help.
My current system is
GA-B75M-D3V motherboard
I5 3570k cpu
8gb ram
660 ti
1 hdd and 2 sdd
Silverstone 450w sfx psu

I've just bought a Palit gtx 1070.

I installed the new gfx card, and the pic just displays the bios screen and then goes no further. I can't actually get into bios, and it beeps about once every 30 seconds, and then eventually the screen goes off.

I put the old 660 back in and everything works fine.

So, question is - what is going wrong and how can I fix it?

My psu is below the min recommended level (500w) but I think it should be fine and should at least boot and if it was a problem that should come later under stress. The 660ti has the same max power draw and takes 2 6 pin power rather than 1 8 pin.

I took the card back to the store today and they tested it and it's not faulty. I can still refund it but want to get it working as I'll surely have the same problem with a different card.

Guy in the shop suggested resetting the cmos. I don't really know what that is but will try. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Geemer
Nov 4, 2010



ufarn posted:

I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold?

Also, when I’m getting 30+ errors during my second pass, I reckon I might as well hang up that module at that point, but I’m going to let it finish a second pass for now (given I’m only testing one module at a time).

The more passes the better, preferably overnight. If I'm in a hurry I tend to at least do four passes.

The acceptable amount of errors for RAM is 0. If a module errors at all, check if it's running at its designed/advertised speeds and voltage. If not set it to those and try again, if so it's time to do the warranty dance.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

all_purpose_cat_boy posted:

Guy in the shop suggested resetting the cmos. I don't really know what that is but will try. Any other suggestions?
Update the motherboard BIOS to the latest version, which will also entail resetting the CMOS. The CMOS memory holds the BIOS settings, it is powered by a battery when the system is off so the settings are saved. You clear it by moving the position of a jumper on the motherboard for a minute or so (or pressing a reset button on some boards). The system will then boot up with default BIOS settings. Check your motherboard manual for more details on both, it's available for download from the website if you lost it.

Gromit
Aug 15, 2000

I am an oppressed White Male, Asian women wont serve me! Save me Campbell Newman!!!!!!!

ufarn posted:

I’m doing some MEMTEST on my RAM (2x2 and 2x4), and I can’t remember what’s consider a good amount of passes, and what the best metric for bugged RAM is in terms of errors. Some errors are acceptable I imagine, but what’s the threshold?

Like Geemer said, zero is the only number of acceptable Memtest errors. If I don't see any after a few hours I'm pretty happy. I might have run it overnight once when I was particularly worried, but whenever I've had a bad stick of RAM Memtest has flagged it within an hour or two at the most.

ufarn
May 30, 2009
I removed the one module - another one appears to have had 1 error, as I left the remainder to run overnight.

My display driver keeps crashing lately. Is this RAM-related, or could it be a number of other things? It happened before I upgraded to W10, too, but not as frequently.

I've also re-installed my AMD drivers (non-whql-64bit-radeon-software-crimson-16.6.1-win10-win8.1-win7-june2) a billion times now.

I can't remove whatever this is for some reason fwiw, though:

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

If you have faulty hardware you can't reliably say it's not the source of your problem. Replace the RAM and then retest.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

FCKGW posted:

If you have faulty hardware you can't reliably say it's not the source of your problem. Replace the RAM and then retest.

This. You can't diagnose a software problem while you knowingly have a dodgy stick of RAM.

mbt
Aug 13, 2012

Uhh I think this question might go here.

I have a 970 with both DVI output ports going to two monitors, but I have a TV on the other side of the wall that I want to connect my PC to via HDMI. My apartment has a small hole in the wall meant to feed wires through but it seems too easy to just connect HDMI from the PC to the TV, I think that would make the video card try to display on all 3 at once which isn't what I want. Is there a way to get a splitter or a connector (something that won't impact performance) to be able to just press it, walk to the other room, and have it display there?

Sorry if this is hard to follow, english is my first language I'm just bad at it

MF_James
May 8, 2008
I CANNOT HANDLE BEING CALLED OUT ON MY DUMBASS OPINIONS ABOUT ANTI-VIRUS AND SECURITY. I REALLY LIKE TO THINK THAT I KNOW THINGS HERE

INSTEAD I AM GOING TO WHINE ABOUT IT IN OTHER THREADS SO MY OPINION CAN FEEL VALIDATED IN AN ECHO CHAMBER I LIKE

Mortimer posted:

Uhh I think this question might go here.

I have a 970 with both DVI output ports going to two monitors, but I have a TV on the other side of the wall that I want to connect my PC to via HDMI. My apartment has a small hole in the wall meant to feed wires through but it seems too easy to just connect HDMI from the PC to the TV, I think that would make the video card try to display on all 3 at once which isn't what I want. Is there a way to get a splitter or a connector (something that won't impact performance) to be able to just press it, walk to the other room, and have it display there?

Sorry if this is hard to follow, english is my first language I'm just bad at it

You should be able to plug it in, but not swap input on the TV, that would have the same functional effect you're talking about.

Fart.Bleed.Repeat.
Sep 29, 2001

Ive seen laptops where you can set like "profiles" esp for projecters etc, is there no desktop equivalent?

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Isn't it called screen mirroring? I would think that if it's that it shouldn't impact performance.

It's what I do on my pc with my 42 inch TV next to the pc and doesn't seem to impact performance on my old ATI 5770.

domhal
Dec 30, 2008


0.000% of Communism has been built. Evil child-murdering billionaires still rule the world with a shit-eating grin. All he has managed to do is make himself *sad*. It has, however, made him into a very, very smart boy with something like a university degree in Truth. Instead of building Communism, he now builds a precise model of this grotesque, duplicitous world.
Is this bad?



It's the CPU VCore plot (from Open Hardware Monitor) of my Gigabyte 770T with an Athlon II X4 640 in it.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

domhal posted:

Is this bad?
Gigabyte motherboards have notoriously awful CPU power delivery quality, but I think it's just as likely you're seeing the system varying the voltage in response to changing load and the CPU sleeping cores. How far it drops below the set value under heavy load is generally what you care about. Motherboards do have ways of faking that though, and Gigabyte boards use all of them. For example, they tend to use settings that jack up the voltage under load to compensate for droop, with the side-effect of sending dangerous voltage spikes to the CPU when a benchmark ends. Some Gigabyte boards just fake voltage readings so they look better.

ufarn
May 30, 2009

ufarn posted:

I removed the one module - another one appears to have had 1 error, as I left the remainder to run overnight.

My display driver keeps crashing lately. Is this RAM-related, or could it be a number of other things? It happened before I upgraded to W10, too, but not as frequently.

I've also re-installed my AMD drivers (non-whql-64bit-radeon-software-crimson-16.6.1-win10-win8.1-win7-june2) a billion times now.

I can't remove whatever this is for some reason fwiw, though:


Well, I removed another module, and got no memtest errors overnight, and my display driver still keeps crashing. What's the next step in debugging this?

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

ufarn posted:

Well, I removed another module, and got no memtest errors overnight, and my display driver still keeps crashing. What's the next step in debugging this?
Reinstall Windows now that it won't be corrupted by your damaged memory, see if you still have any issues, if so post a thread in the Haus of Tech Support with your full system specs.

Cowman
Feb 14, 2006

Beware the Cow





Paul MaudDib posted:

Why not buy a desk mic like a Blue Snowball or Yeti? The Snowball is more directional so probably better if you're planning on using speakers, but that's probably going to be an issue even with a headset.

Ideally you really want to have headphones when using a microphone, and frankly most gaming headsets are built like poo poo anyways. Nice music headphones and a desk mic or an Antlion ModMic are really the way to go.

What would you recommend? My headset just broke because it slipped off my desk and I'm looking for something new.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice
I will note that the point of a headset is that it only captures your voice, while a desk microphone will capture everything going on around you., as well as your keystrokes which conduct through the desk. In general the Inspect Your Gadgets is where audio questions go.

Schroeder91
Jul 5, 2007

I'm moving in with a friend of mine and he already has router etc setup and doesn't want Ethernet cables around the house. Is there a way for my router to receive an internet connection wirelessly and get full speed so I can connect my desktop and ps4 with Ethernet?

Peanut3141
Oct 30, 2009

Schroeder91 posted:

I'm moving in with a friend of mine and he already has router etc setup and doesn't want Ethernet cables around the house. Is there a way for my router to receive an internet connection wirelessly and get full speed so I can connect my desktop and ps4 with Ethernet?

What you're talking about is a wireless bridge--a second router configured to send any requests from its wired ethernet connections to the router providing wireless access and then relay back the answers to its wired connections. I have one upstairs serving a desktop with the primary router and modem downstairs.

Full speed depends on a lot of things. I can get 900Mbps wired directly into the primary router downstairs. I can get ~400Mbps wirelessly in the same room as the primary router. The best speedtest I can do from upstairs on the desktop is approximately 180Mbps. So, no, you probably won't get full speed from a Gigabit connection. Two good AC routers forming the wireless bridge should be able to support up to 200Mbps, depending on other device contention.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Schroeder91 posted:

I'm moving in with a friend of mine and he already has router etc setup and doesn't want Ethernet cables around the house. Is there a way for my router to receive an internet connection wirelessly and get full speed so I can connect my desktop and ps4 with Ethernet?

A wireless bridge or powerline ethernet are your options. You can connect a switch to the powerline-ethernet adapter and it will act just like a run of ethernet cable, or you can connect individual devices to it.

A pair of good AC wireless routers may have slightly better speed but there is definitely more latency over wireless than via a PLE adapter.

Or I guess you could just put wireless adapters on your PS4 and your desktop directly. Same problems with latency though.

Schroeder91
Jul 5, 2007

I hear the ps4 wireless is crap, and I don't have a wireless adapter for the desktop so that's why i was looking at this. These sound exactly what I need though. Our connection is only 150 down so hopefully it won't lose a lot of the speed.

Peanut3141
Oct 30, 2009

Schroeder91 posted:

I hear the ps4 wireless is crap, and I don't have a wireless adapter for the desktop so that's why i was looking at this. These sound exactly what I need though. Our connection is only 150 down so hopefully it won't lose a lot of the speed.

Might take a gander at this Anandtech article first: http://www.anandtech.com/show/10293/comtrend-pg9172-powerline-adapter-review-ghn-gets-primed-for-retail-push

Getting a solid 150MBps isn't too easy over powerline adaptors. Between some plugs they only achieved 40-50 MBps, which may be sufficient for your needs.

Chuu
Sep 11, 2004

Grimey Drawer
How much more power to factory overclocked video cards draw at idle? Specifically the ASUS factory overclocked 1080, which I am having real trouble finding power specs for other than "draws up to 300W".

Also, any idea how much more this card will draw at load?

Mikojan
May 12, 2010

Hi,

I own a fractal design nano S case, and I have some questions about the cooling.

The case came standard with a 140mm fan in the front and a 120mm fan in the back.

I'm a bit annoyed with the sound levels it is producing and would like to see if there are steps I can take to reduce it.

My cpu tower has 2 fans on it, with the back fan just 2 cm from the exhaust fan. Would it make sense to remove the back fan from the cpu tower?

I was thinking about adding another 140mm fan in the front and have both fans turn at low RPM. Does this make sense? Or will I just blow so much air in the case that my exhaust fan can't really remove?

Thanks

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast

Mikojan posted:

Hi,

I own a fractal design nano S case, and I have some questions about the cooling.

The case came standard with a 140mm fan in the front and a 120mm fan in the back.

I'm a bit annoyed with the sound levels it is producing and would like to see if there are steps I can take to reduce it.

My cpu tower has 2 fans on it, with the back fan just 2 cm from the exhaust fan. Would it make sense to remove the back fan from the cpu tower?

I was thinking about adding another 140mm fan in the front and have both fans turn at low RPM. Does this make sense? Or will I just blow so much air in the case that my exhaust fan can't really remove?

Thanks

What motherboard do you have? The fans it includes as far as I can tell are 3-pin, so if they're hooked up to the board (as they should be), you should be able to control them (as long as the header supports voltage control).

Controlling them is definitely the correct solution, not just removing a fan that might be useful under load.

Mikojan
May 12, 2010

HalloKitty posted:

What motherboard do you have? The fans it includes as far as I can tell are 3-pin, so if they're hooked up to the board (as they should be), you should be able to control them (as long as the header supports voltage control).

Controlling them is definitely the correct solution, not just removing a fan that might be useful under load.

I have a itx i170z pro gaming board. But after further inspection it seems I can't even hear my cpu fans running at 100%.

The only fan that is really making a noticeable amount of noise is the case intake fan. Lowering it's RPM seems to be not a very good solution as it is a small case so adding another intake fan and having them both run at lower RPM seems the correct way of action?

The thing is that the GPU is very large (1070gtx g1 gaming) and dissipates heat in the case itself. The only way I can justify having the GPU fans on a lower rithm is to have the case airflow increase..

Mikojan fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Jun 30, 2016

Rabid Snake
Aug 6, 2004



Hello,

I just upgraded my RAM from 8gb (2x4gb) to 16gb (2x8gb) to provide more life into my Haswell build. I got these exactly

Team Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313542

The voltage (2.224v) seems pretty high after checking it post installation. I have XMP turned to get the timings. But it seems like turning on XMP bumped the DRAM voltage. I thought these sticks are only tuned for 1.5 voltage? Is it safe running these sticks with XMP on?

Edit: Turning off XMP still sets the voltage to 2.224v. For some reason, my motherboard bios locks me from changing Memory voltage to manual. It's stuck on auto and there's no other option.



Rabid Snake fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jul 1, 2016

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

Rabid Snake posted:

The voltage (2.224v) seems pretty high after checking it post installation. I have XMP turned to get the timings. But it seems like turning on XMP bumped the DRAM voltage. I thought these sticks are only tuned for 1.5 voltage? Is it safe running these sticks with XMP on?
The tool you're using to see the voltages doesn't support your motherboard so it's just showing uncalibrated sensor values in random positions. You don't need to worry about the memory voltage.

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Rabid Snake
Aug 6, 2004



Alereon posted:

The tool you're using to see the voltages doesn't support your motherboard so it's just showing uncalibrated sensor values in random positions. You don't need to worry about the memory voltage.

Oh thanks for the prompt response! All is good then. I ran Prime 95 for a couple of hours and no crashes so far with the new ram.

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