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Any thoughts on the Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio 4? I want to get a Carplay receiver for my FR-S and it seems to be about the cheapest that will work. I don't care at all about having a CD player. The reviews on Crutchfield and Amazon seem good. Are there any good places to order it along with the parts for installation besides Crutchfield or should I just go with them? They're offering a $100 rebate on it right now.
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Jun 1, 2016 15:28
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Endless Mike posted:Any thoughts on the Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio 4? I want to get a Carplay receiver for my FR-S and it seems to be about the cheapest that will work. I don't care at all about having a CD player. The reviews on Crutchfield and Amazon seem good. Are there any good places to order it along with the parts for installation besides Crutchfield or should I just go with them? They're offering a $100 rebate on it right now. I haven't used one in a car, but when i fiddled with one in a store display it felt very slow and unresponsive compared to a modern smartphone. I also considered it, but decided against it for that reason. I would try to get a hands on before you decide. Im not sure how much of a difference carplay will make for the responsiveness though.
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Jun 1, 2016 16:13
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I currently have a Kenwood KDC-X996 in my Jeep, and it has this random recurring problem - it will suddenly stop playing any audio sources. It will still beep when you press a button, so it's pushing some kind of signal to the speakers, but it won't play any audio. The last time this happened, I pulled the head unit out, unplugged it completely, didn't see any change, pulled the fuse at the back, and replaced it (as in, the fuse was fine, I took it out and put it back in), and the audio started working again. It's been about a month and it's doing it again. So, I'm curious about what could cause this, but I'm mostly considering it an excuse to upgrade. I'm mostly happy with the feature set, but there are definitely some gripes I have about it, so I'm hoping for recommendations. I mostly just hook my iPhone up to this and play audio (music, audiobooks, Waze) through it - so I need USB input, and I like that the Kenwood had a wire running from the back. I need it to be able to hook up to RCA outs, and I value great sounding music, but I don't know much about setting it up - so I guess I need "a clean signal" or "powerful output", but I don't really know what that looks like. I need manual equalizer, and knobs for it would actually be cool, but I don't know if that's a thing. Bluetooth for audio, and phone, would be nice. I'd also like it if it had red display, but I would use something else if the other features are there. Budget ... Ideally $250 or less, I'm willing to spend more if necessary for something good. Edit: oh yeah, and it's a 1.5 DIN slot, but 1 or 1.5 would be fine. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 19, 2016 |
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Jun 19, 2016 23:30
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I'm a big fan of the sony mex-xb100bt. It covers a lot of the features you are looking for except manual equalizer buttons which Wil most likely be impossible to find in a modern head unit. The Sony should give you quite a bump in power which should give you better sound over the Kenwood you currently have. As for your Kenwood, it sounds like something internally is going bad. Obviously not a power issue. Sounds like the dac (digital to analog converter) is going bad if I had to guess. Since digital sources stop playing but button presses produce audio. I'm guessing the button presses are analog audio so they don't use the dac and thus produce sound. Just a hunch though.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:13
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The Pioneer DEH-80PRS has pretty much everything you're looking for and is around your price range. Not as much power as the Sony, but it sounds like you might be using external amps already anyways.
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Jun 20, 2016 05:05
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I just got a Kenwood KDC-BT762HD...Bluetooth, HD Radio, available SiriusXM and a very nice EQ that allows you to adjust the q and center frequency of the 3 bands. I love it so far and haven't had any issues with it - nice upgrade from the 710HD I put in my other truck.
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Jun 20, 2016 18:27
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I have a somewhat weird question. I just installed a pioneer appradio 4 in my legacy and while I pretty much like the radio, it has no physical play/pause or volume controls. This is kind of a pain in the rear end but it would be fine with steering wheel controls which the car doesn't have. I have an axcess asw-1 (or whatever it's called). Is there any type of volume control or button that I could wire to the axcess to control the radio? Is there any info out there for the pinouts or signals that this thing normally expects from steering wheel controls so I could DIY something? I couldn't find any 
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Jun 27, 2016 14:06
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Wojcigitty posted:I have a somewhat weird question. You can get an aftermarket steering wheel control setup, small control pad/button that attaches to the wheel or else where. That's your best option besides retrofitting a factory setup. I've been researching a bunch, I could point you to some if you're interested.
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Jun 28, 2016 02:15
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:You can get an aftermarket steering wheel control setup, small control pad/button that attaches to the wheel or else where. That's your best option besides retrofitting a factory setup. I've been researching a bunch, I could point you to some if you're interested. Definitely interested in that if you have a source then. Thanks!
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Jun 28, 2016 12:40
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Scrapez posted:I'm a big fan of the sony mex-xb100bt. It covers a lot of the features you are looking for except manual equalizer buttons which Wil most likely be impossible to find in a modern head unit. Lowclock posted:The Pioneer DEH-80PRS has pretty much everything you're looking for and is around your price range. Not as much power as the Sony, but it sounds like you might be using external amps already anyways. bigtom posted:I just got a Kenwood KDC-BT762HD...Bluetooth, HD Radio, available SiriusXM and a very nice EQ that allows you to adjust the q and center frequency of the 3 bands. I love it so far and haven't had any issues with it - nice upgrade from the 710HD I put in my other truck. I like the Pioneer over the Sony so far, and I'm looking at the Kenwood right now.
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Jun 28, 2016 18:34
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Wojcigitty posted:Definitely interested in that if you have a source then. Thanks! These products are more aimed at people wanting to run an audio system without a head unit, they pair to a bluetooth device and lets you have physical controls, aux in, etc: http://www.crutchfield.com/g_378550/Marine-Bluetooth-Adapters.html?tp=61776 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i1219_marine-remote-controls.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_80659_iSimple-BluClik-ISBC01.html http://www.nvx.com/bluetooth-kits/ This one is an aftermarket steering wheel control and will connect directly to the head unit giving you physical controls. I thought there were more out there but this is the only one I found so far: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36614_Axxess-RFASWC.html Edit: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XI4KorpEsO5/p_158RMX4S/Sony-RM-X4S.html http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ukFfSqQznaw/p_113KOSA300/Kenwood-KOS-A300-Factory-Radio-Upgrade-System.html Neat! Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 04:32
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How much do I need to spend to get a decent headunit + speaker + tweeter+ sub set. Doesn't have to be amazing, cheap and decent is what I want. The stock speakers suck and the tweeters are dying/dead, and I'd like to have audible bass, the stock speakers have none. I don't want to vibrate my boot lid off, just want it so sound good. I'm open to under seat ones if they are good too.
underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Jul 3, 2016 |
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Jul 3, 2016 13:37
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Got my DEH-80PRS installed, loving it (except the keypress beep that I can't disable, but that's no biggy). The Auto-level/time adjust/EQ is pretty amazing - I installed a few more tweeters and was trying to get them to sound right, ended up running that and it fixed them up very well. Only problem - it's now running a ton of bass through the front 6.5" speakers. Can I lower that without undoing the Auto adjustments?
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Jul 3, 2016 20:03
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I think I spent around $350 on head unit, front components, and 4 channel amp. Had a sub from my previous vehicle that's a little pricy cause I wanted something tiny. Before that I had a Rockford fosgate 10" that came in a box for $100 that was honestly pretty good.
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Jul 3, 2016 20:09
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so like $4-500?
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Jul 4, 2016 05:49
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Krakkles posted:Got my DEH-80PRS installed, loving it (except the keypress beep that I can't disable, but that's no biggy). The Auto-level/time adjust/EQ is pretty amazing - I installed a few more tweeters and was trying to get them to sound right, ended up running that and it fixed them up very well. Only problem - it's now running a ton of bass through the front 6.5" speakers. Can I lower that without undoing the Auto adjustments?
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Jul 4, 2016 05:50
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Why does Cruthfield say that no tweeters will fit my car? I have tweeters stock, their photos on the car search show the tweeters in the door?
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Jul 4, 2016 06:11
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Usually the tweeter mounts aren't a perfect fit so you have to jam it in or do a little bit of fabrication. It might take a little research outside of crutchfield to get a sense for how much of a pain it'll be.
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Jul 4, 2016 06:47
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powderific posted:Usually the tweeter mounts aren't a perfect fit so you have to jam it in or do a little bit of fabrication. It might take a little research outside of crutchfield to get a sense for how much of a pain it'll be. Fair enough. I'm ok with having to fab stuff up, I'm going to have to remake my spacers when I get new speakers anyway. Is clarion any good? I've never done audio before, the first wrx I was going to buy, the guy said he had clarion and I liked how it sounded, it was disappointing when I test drove the wrx I ended up buying and its audio was poo poo. So far I've got: Headunit Clarion CZ603AU - 130 Aus Ebay http://www.clarion.com/au/en/products-personal/audio/CZ205AU/index.html Has Aux, Bluetooth, and a low pass filter so I can use a sub Front speakers (not replacing rears) Clarion SRG1623R - 60 on Aus Ebay http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020SRG1623/Clarion-SRG1623R.html?search=SRG1623R&skipvs=T I really have no idea what to go with for a sub though. I only want the 1, the bass packages on Cruthfield are mostly double subs. I can make my own speakerbox, it's not hard to nail together 6 bits of plywood into a 1 cubic foot box. From what I've read, I'd want a 12 inch 300 rms sub? Am I underestimating it or is matching a sub to an amp as simple as making sure the amp has an out equal to the RMS of the sub?
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Jul 4, 2016 07:22
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I was curioous about something so I took off my drivers side doorcard and saw my speaker just bearley hanging to the crumbling mdf mount. I knew about the mount and that it needed fixing, what I didn't know about was the fact the wiring was like this Thats wire wrapped around on the left, on what I think is the negative terminal. The positive one has been snapped right off. I wonder why it never worked very well.
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Jul 4, 2016 10:16
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I think Pioneer's HUs generally have the best feature set. For my last two vehicles I went with JVC because they had better pre-outs in their low end HUs. For speakers, the Polk DB series stuff tends to be the budget pick. I went with JBL P660c components because they had a lower crossover point and (to me) it made sense to get as much of the frequency range as possible through them since they're in a better place for imaging. For the sub, I went with smaller stuff and was still totally happy. I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-02010CP108LG-W3V3-CP108LG-W3v3/dp/B001UDIGAC?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1 with two channels from a 4 channel amp feeding it 150 watts and it's plenty for my purposes. The total thought I put into it was having roughly the recommended RMS at the specified ohms. This is the amp, which I really liked since it's teeny tiny and super easy to position: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html
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Jul 4, 2016 19:38
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Doesn't look like the JBL ones are sold in Australia, but I'll look around at polk and the other major brands
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Jul 5, 2016 08:31
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So I have a question. I have a recently acquired Porsche 911 (996) with a factory Becker CDR-210 head unit and some amp in the frunk. It's a CD/radio and it's pretty bad. I'm thinking of doing a swap with a Continental brand head unit TR7412UB-OR which is perfectly color coordinated to the interior, very German/Porsche like and meets all my wants. Question is this: This is the back of my OEM head unit:  This is the Continental  From what I can see A4 and A7 need to be reversed (can I buy a plug/patch to do that?) but my concern is the OEM amp. I don't care if I use it or not but I don't want to modify the vehicle wiring other than maybe using cables (don't want to cut/splice). Do you think it's as simple as plug and play or is that OEM amp going to kill me? I have never installed a stereo before but not really scared to do it if I can get away doing it via plugs.
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Jul 6, 2016 06:20
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So, after finding out the factory bose system in my 04 mazda 6 wagon is hosed without the amp and sub and the cost of replacing the missing components will make it pointless to replace them only to rip it all out later, I'm looking at just building the system now. I'm hoping to do it in stages, head unit and speakers (6 1/2 s in the front, 5 3/4 I think in the rear) first, then a amp running to a sub (2x10" or 1x12"), then a deadicated amp for the speakers and possibly upgrading the speakers .Is this a terrible way to do it? Also, if this isn't a terrible idea, what are some brands I should be looking at? I love the factory rockford fosgate system in my friends eclipse and their entry level options don't seem to be priced too terribly high. I've also heard good things about kicker and polk audio. Do I have this all wrong?  Edit: if it helps, my taste in music includes a bit of everything. However I mostly want some speakers with a nice mid range and some decent bass, at least until I can get a real sub wired up. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 06:21
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slidebite posted:
Looks like you could just buy this, which does the pin swap: http://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/products/car-audio/iso-harness-porsche-996-boxster-bose.html The harness description mentions the amp. If you're worried I'd just contact bergvillfx as it seems like they should know. Elmnt80 posted:So, after finding out the factory bose system in my 04 mazda 6 wagon is hosed without the amp and sub and the cost of replacing the missing components will make it pointless to replace them only to rip it all out later, I'm looking at just building the system now. I'm hoping to do it in stages, head unit and speakers (6 1/2 s in the front, 5 3/4 I think in the rear) first, then a amp running to a sub (2x10" or 1x12"), then a deadicated amp for the speakers and possibly upgrading the speakers .Is this a terrible way to do it? Also, if this isn't a terrible idea, what are some brands I should be looking at? I love the factory rockford fosgate system in my friends eclipse and their entry level options don't seem to be priced too terribly high. I've also heard good things about kicker and polk audio. Do I have this all wrong? I'd skip the rear speakers and try not to install anything you're going to just replace again later.
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Jul 6, 2016 15:31
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powderific posted:Looks like you could just buy this, which does the pin swap: http://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/products/car-audio/iso-harness-porsche-996-boxster-bose.html The harness description mentions the amp. If you're worried I'd just contact bergvillfx as it seems like they should know. 
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Jul 6, 2016 16:51
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powderific posted:I'd skip the rear speakers and try not to install anything you're going to just replace again later. Why would I want to skip the rear door speakers?
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Jul 6, 2016 16:58
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slidebite posted:Yeah, saw that but the 490 in my vintage 996 is not a Bose amp - it's a Nokia. I think you're right though, that's probably a really specific question and I should probably ask more those guys or even the Rennlist guys. Thanks for the reply though Those connectors are pretty standard DIN stuff, you should be able to get a female connection and wire it to the pigtail that comes with the radio to make it work.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:22
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Elmnt80 posted:Why would I want to skip the rear door speakers? I just do the fronts in all my cars. The extra speakers don't make it sound better (to me anyway, it is just stereo after all) and can make the already problematic acoustic environment of a car even more challenging to get right. Maybe I'm in the minority but I'd way rather spend the extra on better front components.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:45
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But that would leave me with absolutely 0 speakers other than the front. I'm effectively starting from nothing at the moment due to the nature of the bose system and the whole operating at 2 ohms thing along with apparently needing the amp for whatever mixing reasons.
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Jul 6, 2016 17:58
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Elmnt80 posted:But that would leave me with absolutely 0 speakers other than the front. ...And? The long-running advice in the car audio threads has been to neglect or skip rear speakers if something needs to be neglected or skipped because of the very real fact they're not adding much to the equation in most cars. If you're sitting in the front, you're hearing the front speakers. You've got seats and door panels and carpets and consoles between you and the rears in most cars, so you're getting a minuscule amount of rear fill at best, and that fill is heavily muted and distorted by all that stuff. You said you wanted to do stuff in stages, and "get the fronts working" is a perfectly reasonable stage to begin with. If you find you absolutely can't stand not having back speakers after driving it for a while, or you routinely drive around with people in the back, then add them later (and choose an amp that will support another two channels).
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Jul 6, 2016 18:39
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Elmnt80 posted:But that would leave me with absolutely 0 speakers other than the front. I'm effectively starting from nothing at the moment due to the nature of the bose system and the whole operating at 2 ohms thing along with apparently needing the amp for whatever mixing reasons. Yeah, and I turn off my rear speakers even though the stock ones are still there. You don't need em.
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Jul 6, 2016 18:59
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Ah, alright. That would probably work as the first "jesus chris get me some loving music in this car before I lose it" step. Edit: What should I look for in front door speakers? Something in roughly the $80-120 range ideally. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jul 6, 2016 |
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Jul 6, 2016 19:10
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Does anyone have an opinion on the lower end Kenwood double-din units? Looking at either the DDX23BT for $240 or the DDX393BT for $299. This will be going into a 2008 Nissan Altima with 6.5 Polk Audios in the doors and stock 6x9 in the back. I have a Pioneer Appradio2 in my other car, but the Kenwoods have the 1 important thing the Pioneers lack, a volume knob. Meydey fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 21:09
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Ok, I know the advice is ignore the rears, but since I don't have the "something needs to be neglected or skipped" clause, I'm looking for some advice. The vehicle is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. So far, it's got (old, german) MB Quart speakers up front - a 6.5" speaker in each door, and a tweeter on each end of the dash. It also has these Pyle tweeter sets on the visors. I'm adding a powered subwoofer this weekend, and while I've got to finish that before I really make any decisions, I'm trying to figure out what to put in the rear roof speaker locations. It's currently got two Infinity drivers, which are labeled as a 6" woofer. At the very least, I'd like to add an amplifier to drive the rears, and realistically, I'd be very open to spending a bit to do amplifier, crossovers, and some sort of speakers, in the name of better sound quality and more volume. Currently, the front sounds pretty good. There's a very definite increase in volume and clarity over the original old & busted speakers and even, indeed, the infinity speakers I swapped in after that. I think that I'm happy with how the front sounds, and I'm not sure what the best way to add to that is - should I just amplify the existing 6" woofers? Should I get 6.5" 2 ways? I would like to get a recommendation on amplifier (/ crossovers if necessary) as well. Up front, I've got a very small Alpine amp driving everything, and it seems to do quite well. I might be able to find another such amp on eBay, but it dates back to at least the early 90s, so it's not something I can buy on amazon or crutch field. So: What should I put in my rear 6.5" speaker spots? What amp should I use to run them? Are two ways worth it, and if so, what kind of crossover should I use? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 02:42
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Krakkles posted:I'd be very open to spending a bit to do amplifier, crossovers, and some sort of speakers, in the name of better sound quality and more volume. Here's where you fall down on better sound quality with the 'add more speakers in different places' thing. It's totally cool to add more subs (or anything capable of playing under 100hz) because the wavelengths of the frequencies are huge and your ears don't care. You stumble when you have multiple speakers in different places playing the rest of the frequencies as the sound arrives at your earholes at different times and even a minor delay causes a lack of clarity in sound. Ideally you'd have some clever electronics in there and add a time delay on the speakers nearest your earholes so that they'd be kicking out noise so it arrives at the exact moment as the sound from the rears does. Adding more doesn't mean better in most cases. Louder yes, but if you're after quality then just throwing drivers and amps at the problem isn't the best way to do it. If you were intent on doing what you say though I'd consider having the rears playing anything from midbass down as having them pump out treble too is going to sound like rear end from the driver's seat. You're basically just firing sound around the car and having it reflect everywhere to arrive at your ears later than that of the tweets in the front. Note that too much midbass is the primary cause of the woolly 'muddy' indistinct audio that everyone hates though. Car systems are far more annoying than even pro PA kits to set up because the environment isn't great and usually the options to EQ are drastically limited. You DO have lots of cabin gain though so subs can really vibrate the poo poo out of the car.
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Jul 8, 2016 10:57
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So I'm replacing this driver's side speaker in my '00 Cherokee which I assumed was blown and the wiring harness falls out in my hand. This is going to be a fun weekend. EDIT: It turns out the harness failed at a splice where wiring was added in for a tweeter that I don't have on the driver's door. Thanks Chrysler. :ugh: Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 15:17
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281495375909?euid=97064af4a3ec40d1b7ae6e88369b91f5&bu=44158127843&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu' So I ordered those on Sunday night I got this message today quote:New message from: supercheapeverythingptyltd Top Rated Seller(17,523YellowShooting Star) Tempted to just say no and ask for a refund, should I? The amazon reviews for the hertz sound good but well, amazon. E: The bad english doesn't bother me. I can almost guarantee this is a guy running a business from his garage or a small mechanic sized warehouse in Australia who moved here from Hong Kong to do so. Most big Australian ebay stores are like that, the best brick and mortar computer stores in Australia are the same, except with worse english. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Jul 11, 2016 |
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Jul 11, 2016 09:55
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Tempted to just say no and ask for a refund, should I? The amazon reviews for the hertz sound good but well, amazon.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:36
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I have no personal experience with em but there are definitely lots of hertz fans out there.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:40
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