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Raluek posted:His is probably fine and intact, but he's probably removing it so he doesn't have to worry about it going off if he whacks a rock because it's a Jeep. I think TJs have a way to switch them off, but I guess XJs don't.
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Jul 10, 2016 05:53
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take out the airbag light in the dash 
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Jul 10, 2016 09:17
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You can buy black nail polish for 99¢ at the drug store. This is how I deal with all obnoxious lights.
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Jul 10, 2016 15:46
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You're all the PO we keep reading about in this thread.
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Jul 10, 2016 16:15
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2008 Impreza 5-door I hit a pothole fairly hard, and now I have exhaust issues. Specifically, it's separated at the connection between the pipe and the muffler, and the hanger under the rear seat area has rusted in half. The rubber appears to be in decent shape, but the piece welded to the pipe is broken. I can handle the first part, but I can't fix the hanger myself. Is there a way to repair this that doesn't involve welding and also isn't super janky? I don't have the means or ability to weld anything, unfortunately. I looked at some of the generic exhaust hangers that are on the market, and they seem designed to hold up the tailpipe and not the middle of a pipe. I was expecting someone to make something that clamped around the pipe, and then had the rod to hook into the hanger, but I guess not? Am I just going to have to bite the bullet and find someone to weld a new one on there?
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Jul 10, 2016 23:19
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There should be clamping hangars at autozone but a muffler shop could probably fix for $20-25 welding too
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Jul 11, 2016 00:25
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2003 Honda Civic hybrid The IMA (integrated motor assist) battery is dying -- the car's got 130k miles on it, so that's understandable. Unfortunately that brings the check engine light on, and I can't pass a smog check without getting that thing turned off. Dealership wants $3k to put in a new battery ($2500 to get the battery, $500 labor). My question basically is: is that an economical decision? The car runs fine otherwise*, and hasn't given me any major problems since, uh, around 95k when I had to get the catalytic converter replaced. But this is definitely not a new car; the question is when I'm going to replace it, not if. So, granted that y'all can't do a detailed inspection of my car over the Internet, do you think I'm likely to get "$3k of value" out of a new hybrid battery before something else goes majorly wrong and effectively totals the car? * Okay, it vibrates like hell sometimes when I have to accelerate from a stop while facing uphill, but it's been doing that for ages and I've mostly learned how to manipulate the accelerator so it doesn't happen. I think it has to do with the (automatic) shifting between 1st and 2nd gear. Tried having a mechanic look at it once and they claimed they couldn't replicate it, go figure. For added annoyance, I just got new tires put on the thing less than a month ago. Plus of course the state of the IMA battery has nothing to do with its pollution output -- I'm getting 40MPG even with a creaky battery.
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Jul 11, 2016 19:16
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There are private battery rebuilding companies that can probably do it cheaper than a dealer.
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Jul 11, 2016 19:23
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At the very least, the major remanufacturing houses (Dorman, Cardone) are doing hybrid batteries these days too. Rockauto has one from each of them for about $1600 (plus $1k core charge). There's almost certainly someone local to you who can at least partly rebuild the pack (since it's not likely that the whole pack is trashed) for less.
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Jul 11, 2016 19:29
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PaintVagrant posted:There are private battery rebuilding companies that can probably do it cheaper than a dealer. How would I go about finding one? Call up a (non-dealer) mechanic and ask for a recommendation? IOwnCalculus posted:At the very least, the major remanufacturing houses (Dorman, Cardone) are doing hybrid batteries these days too. Rockauto has one from each of them for about $1600 (plus $1k core charge). There's almost certainly someone local to you who can at least partly rebuild the pack (since it's not likely that the whole pack is trashed) for less. Yeah, most likely just one or a few of the cells are trashed. I was frankly surprised that the dealer wanted to replace the whole thing, but in retrospect replacements are easier and of course more profitable for them so why would they offer anything else?
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Jul 11, 2016 19:53
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My parents used a mobile service that did the install in their driveway. Get that Google fu working, I bet you can find something.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:01
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PaintVagrant posted:My parents used a mobile service that did the install in their driveway. Get that Google fu working, I bet you can find something.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:06
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 Krakkles posted:Since all this resistor chat is going on ... Is there an easy way I could figure out what resistor(s) to put in place of my passenger airbag to make the light go out? I was going to figure out how to do this for a friend in like, 2011 but he turned his XJ into a bent pile of scrapmetal and built a J10 instead. Not sure exactly what value. But if you don't care if the airbag (hint: do this at the junkyard) goes off in the process, just measure the resistance across the squib wires to it from a respectable distance/not in front of the airbag. Choose the nearest 5% standard resistor value and attach. Curious why though, even my friend (who I have posted many pictures of, flying in his XJ) never blew up a late-model airbag, and he got a lot of airtime, wheeled that thing so hard it bent in half not once but twice, and buckled the motor mounts on the frame from a hard landing. He lit off a 95-96 airbag wheeling but those are fully mechanical.
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Jul 11, 2016 20:54
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kastein posted:... As for why... (Link) Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 12, 2016 00:34
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1998 Toyota Camry (4cyl), the check engine light came on and the scan at AutoZone brought up error code P0401, indicating a problem with the EGR valve (http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/egr-valve/duralast-egr-valve/223400_0_0_1277/). I will replace it (I already bought the part) but am driving out of state today (Virginia to North Carolina). Is this something that needs to be replaced before the trip, or can be done once I get back?
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Jul 12, 2016 14:49
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You'll be fine to make the trip as it is. It's an emissions component. When they fail, they usually fail closed, so there's no harm in driving it. When they fail open, it'll struggle to idle, and will probably be running lean. If that's the case, then you shouldn't drive it. But it's very rare for them to stick open. Also, it's possible the EGR passages are clogged with soot and the valve is fine. You'll know in a hurry once you remove the valve. There's also a decent chance that the vacuum line going to it is cracked, keeping it from working properly. Check the vacuum line before you remove the valve.
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Jul 12, 2016 17:04
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Yeah, "is it running badly" is the big question mark. Since P0401 is "insufficient flow", I'd lean towards either the valve is failed in a way where it can't open enough (or at all), or the whole mess is just carboned up to death. You can probably drive like that as long as you want until you need to pass an emissions test. My old Mazdaspeed3 liked to set that code, and each time it was just carbon buildup in the EGR system. The valve would get gummed up and the tube would get partly blocked, so combined it wouldn't flow enough to pass the test.
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Jul 12, 2016 22:30
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Update on my hybrid battery: found a place that'll sell me a rebuilt battery (with an 18-month warranty), and come out to my house to install it, for $1200 less than the dealership wanted. Granted the dealership would've got me a new battery, but I'm more worried about passing the smog test than I am about getting optimum performance out of a 13-year-old car. Thanks for the advice, everyone.
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Jul 12, 2016 22:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Update on my hybrid battery: found a place that'll sell me a rebuilt battery (with an 18-month warranty), and come out to my house to install it, for $1200 less than the dealership wanted. Granted the dealership would've got me a new battery, but I'm more worried about passing the smog test than I am about getting optimum performance out of a 13-year-old car. Nice!
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Jul 12, 2016 22:58
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Jose Cuervo posted:1998 Toyota Camry (4cyl), the check engine light came on and the scan at AutoZone brought up error code P0401, indicating a problem with the EGR valve (http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/egr-valve/duralast-egr-valve/223400_0_0_1277/). I will replace it (I already bought the part) but am driving out of state today (Virginia to North Carolina). Is this something that needs to be replaced before the trip, or can be done once I get back? My old Tacoma had the same code, it was a cracked vacuum line. You can draw a vacuum on the valve with a dry turkey baster and it should stall the car while it is idling. If it does, your valve is probably not the problem.
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Jul 12, 2016 23:14
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some texas redneck posted:You'll be fine to make the trip as it is. It's an emissions component. When they fail, they usually fail closed, so there's no harm in driving it. This is generally true but in some cases, it's the opposite. For example running a Geo Metro with a G10 and a plugged EGR (common problem on those) will allegedly in some cases nuke your exhaust valves. So double check that there aren't reports of engine failures or other serious damage following a plugged EGR on your car before running it that way.
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Jul 12, 2016 23:19
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some texas redneck posted:You'll be fine to make the trip as it is. It's an emissions component. When they fail, they usually fail closed, so there's no harm in driving it. IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, "is it running badly" is the big question mark. Since P0401 is "insufficient flow", I'd lean towards either the valve is failed in a way where it can't open enough (or at all), or the whole mess is just carboned up to death. You can probably drive like that as long as you want until you need to pass an emissions test. The car was running badly a while back where it would idle badly by revving up and then dropping to 0 rpm, and then stalling, and the average mpg went from about 29 to 19-20. Cleaning out the idle air intake valve solved the problem bad idling problem. Then the car started stalling intermittently when I stopped at a sop sign or red light. I took it into a Jiffy Lube where they diagnosed a faulty coolant temperature sensor. From looking this up online it seemed to be associated with a car stalling. The changed this out and the car stalling issue disappeared. The car had been running just fine (no idling issues, no stalling, avg mpg in the 23-24 range) and I changed the oil in the car yesterday in preparation for the long journey today. The oil change was long overdue (about 7000 miles since last oil change). On the way home from my parents house (a 3 mile drive), the check engine light came on. Mercury Ballistic posted:My old Tacoma had the same code, it was a cracked vacuum line. You can draw a vacuum on the valve with a dry turkey baster and it should stall the car while it is idling. If it does, your valve is probably not the problem. Can you describe how to 'draw a vacuum on the valve'?
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Jul 13, 2016 02:31
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If your turkey baster has a real good seal, you can shove it up against the back of the vacuum hose and squeeze. The air will probably just puff out, but if you get a good seal against the vacuum hose as the bulb is expanding and pulling air in, it'll create vacuum in the hose and actuate the valve. Try it with the turkey baster's tip against your finger, see if you can get it to hang free (or at least pull on the skin a little bit).
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Jul 13, 2016 02:49
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I'm considering getting a Nissan King Cab truck (that's what it's called here, D21 / Hardbody / Navara /whatever elsewhere). Want a winter beater thing on occasionally very snowy roads (Miata + winter in Sweden = no thanks) and occasional hauling and towing poo poo. Sometimes need to tow boats or car trailers, and this thing is allowed to pull 2000kg. Thus:  1990, 230000km, manual, 4wd, appears to have a Z24 engine (carbureted, 100-ish hp). Pretty new tires. Supposedly the frame has been rust-proofed early in is life and is pretty much rust free. The different-colored body panels have been replaced due to rust, the rest of the body is said to be in good shape. Seller says it idles perfectly, but sometimes when driven for a bit it starts sputtering. Happened after standing unused for several months, seller thinks it's due to dirt in gas tank / filter / something (which kind of makes sense, but I don't really know). I know basically how a carburettor works, but I'm mostly used to EFI engines. Haven't seen this in person yet, but I'm passing by where it is tomorrow and will at least give it a look. Can probably get it for the equivalent of $1500-1700 or so, and judging by the local market of other similar trucks, it seems like a good price, especially if the frame isn't very rusty. Is this a crazy idea? What horrible pains should I expect from a Nissan truck like this? What should I look out for when checking it out? How can I verify/falsify the sellers theory on the fuelling issue?
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Jul 13, 2016 16:58
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Anyone here got any experience of LPG systems? mine is playing up.
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Jul 13, 2016 17:20
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ionn posted:Is this a crazy idea? What horrible pains should I expect from a Nissan truck like this? What should I look out for when checking it out? How can I verify/falsify the sellers theory on the fuelling issue? The sputtering thing is a non-issue, those things are dirt simple and cheap as chips to fix. Your real problem is the rust that is definitely there regardless of what the owner says.
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Jul 13, 2016 18:51
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ionn posted:1990, 230000km, manual, 4wd, appears to have a Z24 engine (carbureted, 100-ish hp). Pretty new tires. Supposedly the frame has been rust-proofed early in is life and is pretty much rust free. The different-colored body panels have been replaced due to rust, the rest of the body is said to be in good shape. Are you sure it's a carb? I'm fairly sure the Z24 they used in the D21 was TBI (106 hp). I'm also pretty sure that a 1990 would have a KA24E (134 hp), I believe 89 was the last model year for the Z24 in the trucks. Either way though, those trucks are dead easy to work on and pretty reliable. Most common issues are rust and electrical, electrical issues are from poorly sealed connectors under the hood. edit: just did a search on the number plate, it should have a fuel injected Z24 (throttle body injection), but it didn't give me an exact year model (ranged from 86 to 92). I'd guess fuel filter or fuel pump, but it's been a long time since I played with TBI. The TBI throttle body on it looks a lot like a carb, except with more wires going to it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 21:48
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Slavvy posted:The sputtering thing is a non-issue, those things are dirt simple and cheap as chips to fix. Your real problem is the rust that is definitely there regardless of what the owner says. some texas redneck posted:Are you sure it's a carb? I'm fairly sure the Z24 they used in the D21 was TBI (106 hp). I'm also pretty sure that a 1990 would have a KA24E (134 hp), I believe 89 was the last model year for the Z24 in the trucks. Will for sure do my very best to look for rustiness. The more I can find, the more I can bump the price down. And if I can see it, I should hopefully be able to deal with it (have welder and not afraid to use it). As for any electrical issues, I think I'll have the home-field advantage in that match-up. I'm not at all sure it's a carb, it's just what the seller told me over the phone, and it might very well be he confused it with TBI. In any case there seems to be some difference in what changes happened which model year in different regions. What I do know is that the registration says it has 74kW (99hp), is gasoline (not diesel) and VIN is JN1KNMD21U0014569, if that provides any clues. Would be happy if it was TBI though, anything fuel injected would be slightly less of a mystery to me to fix/maintain. Not sure how much I will be able to take the engine apart without actually buying it and if I can see the various wires, but I guess the presence of a fuel return line or O2 sensor means TBI. Assuming I like what I see and end up buying it, I will somehow need to get it home, preferably under its own power. That would if so be a while later (enough time to get some bits). What should I do to maximize the chances of fixing the fueling issue? Would just fuel pump + filter be the appropriate thing to do regardless of if it's carb or TBI, or should I consider something else as well? I guess there's a chance this will turn into a mini-version of ExplodingSims and 14inch's buy-a-broken-truck-far-away adventure. Only 1/10th the distance, 1/2 as much truck at 1/3 the age, and hopefully a tiny fraction of the amount of work required to be able to drive it home.
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Jul 14, 2016 00:33
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VIN says it's a 1989 king cab, long wheel base, 4x4, DX trim level, red exterior, gray interior, left hand drive, European market. Not a 1990, so a TBI Z24 would be the correct engine. Oddly, only one VIN decoder I found would spit anything out for it - one site said it was either a 2014 Frontier, the others couldn't find it. I've never heard of a DX trim level on a D21 before, so it may be a region-specific trim (or, more likely, just incorrect). Mechanically they're all the same, the trim levels just designate standard features and additional options you could order (radio, ac, carpet vs vinyl, etc). A fuel return line doesn't necessarily indicate fuel injection; some carbs have fuel return lines too. And I've owned cars with both a carb and oxygen sensor (computer controlled carb on a 1988 Honda Accord). Ignore all the text, this is the only photo I could find of what you should see when you remove the air filter cover. But if it looks like this, it's throttle body injected. And I'm fairly certain that all Z24s that went into a D21 was TBI.  If it's TBI, the ECU has very basic built-in diagnostics. The short version is you find the ECU, locate the diagnostic screw on it. Turn on the key without starting, turn the screw fully clockwise, wait 5 seconds, turn it fully counterclockwise, then count the flashes from the check engine light (long flashes = 1st digit, short flashes = 2nd digit, with a pause between codes). edit: factory service manual here, you want to look at section EF&EC randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 14, 2016 02:30
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That is excellent info, thanks. Not sure how much I can dig around for error codes as a prospective buyer (as it is a fair bit more complicated than just hooking up an OBD2 scanner), but I'll see if I can find something there. Otherwise I'll just hope for a fuel filter.
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Jul 14, 2016 09:26
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The most miserable carburetors in existence also had an O2 sensor (electronic carbs! The last gasp of carburetor technology subjected to emissions regulations and cheapskate OEMs) so that's not a very good indication, and I've seen carbureted vehicles with a supply and a return line as far as the fuel filter, which had 3 hoses going to it. The easiest way to tell is to pop the air filter or intake duct off the top of the throttle body, if you see one or two honking huge injectors with wires going to them, it's TBI, if you see needles and jets and a float bowl and linkages and springs and all manner of obsolete fuel management technology, it's a carb.
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Jul 14, 2016 15:39
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ionn posted:That is excellent info, thanks. Not sure how much I can dig around for error codes as a prospective buyer (as it is a fair bit more complicated than just hooking up an OBD2 scanner), but I'll see if I can find something there. Otherwise I'll just hope for a fuel filter. I threw out all that info in case you wind up buying it. 
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Jul 14, 2016 18:54
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kastein posted:all manner of obsolete fuel management technology, it's a carb.  you!
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Jul 14, 2016 19:52
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Having gone and actually seen the car (drove past the city it's in on my way elsewhere), I can now say it's a combination of good, bad and ugly. For one thing, it's definitely a carb. CARB! And as the guy said, it sort of won't run right. It started and idled fine, but after 4-5 minutes at idle it sputtered and died. It restarts, but I couldn't drive it. More than a little throttle, or no throttle, it dies. I could just drive it a few dozen meters up and down the street, having it stall a few times. There's a little window on the front of the carb where you see fuel (some kind of float bowl inspection port), and there's fuel there. What are the chances that the carb has some kind of clogged nozzle or gunked up whatchamacallit that is relatively straightforward to fix? I don't know much about carbs or other obsolete fuel management technology (anything other than an EFI petrol engine), but I'm hoping it could be something decently simple. Other than that, I crawled under it and had a look at things. The whole frame was covered in a layer of black monkey feces rust-proofing, which may just have worked. It had flaked off in a couple of spots where there was surface rust, but it did look pretty good. No severe rust as far as I could tell from poking around. It has passed the swedish safety inspection thing, where they do for check rust in structural parts. The body is darn ugly. Most of the body panels have been replaced from a variety of donors. Only the "cab" central part and the drivers side door+front fender were the original red, the hood and passener side door+fender are dark grey, the bed is white, and the tailgate a delicious camouflage thing. A few dings and scratches, no severe rust apart from some on the drivers side door (which is why it comes with the dark grey door for that side as well). I think hammering out the worst dents, some bondo, and a roller paint job would make it look about as decent as it could ever deserve. Interior is in pretty good shape for a 26 year old car. The steering wheel is worn and ugly, but since there's no airbag replacing it should be simple enough. It lacks power steering, which is probably why someone tore poo poo out of the steering wheel. drat it was heavy to turn when parking.   I can get it for about $1500 (which seems like a pretty decent price). The seller had some friends in the trucking world, and might arrange transportation to bring it home, in which case I think I'll go for it. I don't have anything else to tow it with, and I'm not quite mad enough to count on being able to fix it on-site to drive it home. If I can't get it transported, I will probably pass. The whole thing does however depend on someone convincing me that it is likely the fuel issue can be fixed at reasonable cost and effort. While I can mostly deal with cars in general, I'm not used to carbs and know gently caress-all about Nissan. I could pay 2-3 times as much and get something newer with power steering and EFI, but this seems more appropriate to see if I'm really a pick-up truck guy.
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Jul 14, 2016 22:55
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Chances are the carb needs very simple work. Slight chance it's fubar. To put it in perspective I recently had a 50 year old Holley (as in, 1966) rebuilt and now that the flat surfaces are actually flat (they warp over time) it runs like it's brand new. You're probably looking about $100 for a rebuild at a local shop. Or you can try your hand at it first and buy a rebuild kit for $20-30. It's basically gaskets and needles (which are the part that's usually clogged by a piece of dirt). You can probably find good info on rebuilding that carb online. Holley actually has a good youtube channel, but not everything will apply to all brands. I have no idea what Nissan used in the 80s. Edit: Worst case, a new carb can be had for less than $300 on amazon.
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Jul 14, 2016 23:11
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If you don't buy it you won't find anything close for ages. If you do buy it something slightly better will show up for sale the next day. My guess is a stuck choke or similar. She warms up and starts running too rich and stalls out when a plug is fouled.
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Jul 14, 2016 23:19
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I'm really surprised it has a carb.  I was positive that every Z24 in a D21 was fuel injected, damnit.Carbs aren't that difficult to rebuild, as long as you keep track of what goes where and follow the rebuild instructions closely, and also keep track of all the vacuum lines. The hard part is tuning a carb - but if it's an OEM carb, and was jetted properly to begin with, you shouldn't need to do any tuning post-rebuild beyond setting the idle speed and mixture. Did you happen to look at the window on the carb immediately after it died? I mean right away (unless you happened to turn off the key right when it died). If it was empty, that would point at a clogged filter or weak fuel pump. I ask if it was immediate because with an electric fuel pump, the fuel pump could have pumped enough fuel back into it after it died that it would look like everything was fine, if the key was left on. Power steering was optional on them, as you discovered. One less thing to break. Personally, even with the issues, I'd buy it, as long as the engine wasn't knocking and it went into gear easily. They're very solid trucks, and parts are generally plentiful where I'm at. The ugly body just means you don't have to give a poo poo about dents or scrapes. And since it's a Z24 instead of a KA24, the KA's weak timing chain guides aren't an issue. (to be honest I've always wanted either a D20 or a D21, king cab in either case..) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 14, 2016 23:37
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some texas redneck posted:I'm really surprised it has a carb. Us northern europe types probably were seen as the appropriate people to unload the surplus stock of old carbs on when everything else turned fuel injection. In the 80's and early 90's I think our emissions regulations were a bit more lax than many other regions so I guess carbed engines were "valid" for quite long. Also means they basically don't care about emissions on it (if they even check, it has pretty high allowed levels of stuff). some texas redneck posted:Did you happen to look at the window on the carb immediately after it died? I did look at it on a couple occasions after stalling just for that reason, and I never saw it anything except halfway up filled with fuel. I may not have been quick enough to turn the key off though. After looking a bit more thoroughly at registration details, it appears the car hasn't been driven since october 2012 (that's when it was "deactivated" as in no longer having taxes or insurance), so I guess that is enough time for age-related clogging up of crap (fuel turning to varnish or whatever). Current owner has had it since december 2014. Guy got it when he was 15 intending to turn it into a tractor but never did. It has gone through the safety inspection thing though, so it has been at least government-approved for safety and roadworthiness. some texas redneck posted:as long as the engine wasn't knocking and it went into gear easily. [...] ugly body just means you don't have to give a poo poo about dents or scrapes. It wasn't, it did, and I don't. Oil was free of water, there were no apparent leaks anywhere apart from what appeared like a very slow valve cover gasket leak. I'll probably want to do something about the mismatched paint and just turn it all plain lovely black (because easiest color to paint). At some recent inspection thing, they officially changed the cars color from "red" to "multicoloured", and regardless how the truck actually looks that fact for some reason annoys me. As long as I can get it delivered closer to home for cheap by seller, I'll very likely take it and try to deal with it.
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Jul 15, 2016 06:50
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Yeah just rattlecan it all matte black and call it a day. From what you've said about it that seems like a decent deal.
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Jul 15, 2016 10:09
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2013 Subaru Forester 2.5x (NA) with about 85k. Oil light came on after 4 hours of my wife driving, but she drove it another half hour to get to me without incident. It goes through about a quart of oil every 1500 or so, and I just topped it off before the trip so I was very concerned. However, just checked the oil and the level is fine. We're about 5 hours from home on "vacation" so this is groovy timing. I seafoamed the oil about 10k ago on a friend's recommendation, but didn't change any oil consumption (not that I was expecting it to on this engine, but hey). Any suggestions on likely culprits? Don't know much about the sump and lines on this... And I'm pretty sure it's a bad idea to drive back across the state if the oil pressure is messed up, but I also don't want to have to go find a garage on vacation. Ungh.
PabloBOOM fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jul 15, 2016 |
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Jul 15, 2016 13:10
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