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I replaced all the brake lines on my 92 chevy 1500 with stainless, and bled the system, it has plenty of fluid, it stops as well as any 90s chevy, but the brake light on the dash still comes on. I was thinking of running one of those pressure bleeders thru it in case any bubbles were stuck in the abs system?
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Jul 14, 2016 00:00
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:07 |
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Any recommendations for a sub $200 tool kit? Looking at the usual tat from harbor freight, ace etc... Didn't bring any of my tools with me from the UK when I moved (my brother trashed them all anyway within a year of me leaving) so just need something simple I can tuck away in a cupboard in the apartment when not spannering on the car.
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Jul 14, 2016 00:10
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BigPaddy posted:Any recommendations for a sub $200 tool kit? Looking at the usual tat from harbor freight, ace etc... Didn't bring any of my tools with me from the UK when I moved (my brother trashed them all anyway within a year of me leaving) so just need something simple I can tuck away in a cupboard in the apartment when not spannering on the car. The $100 Costco one is generally pretty well regarded. I've seen them carry Craftsman, Crescent, and Kirkland branded ones, usually in the $100-120 range. Seemed pretty decent for the price.
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Jul 14, 2016 00:12
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Raluek posted:The $100 Costco one is generally pretty well regarded. I've seen them carry Craftsman, Crescent, and Kirkland branded ones, usually in the $100-120 range. Seemed pretty decent for the price. Agreeing with this if you have a Costco near. I got the Kirkland brand set on sale for $80 and it lives in my Jeep as the off-road set. Better quality than HF and would probably cost more to build there. The molded case is nice. Can't get the link to work on my phone but it's item # 922243 on their site. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 14, 2016 00:40
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The Costco one looks good, just need to bite the bullet and get a membership I guess since there is one about 2 miles away. Thanks.
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Jul 14, 2016 00:53
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BigPaddy posted:The Costco one looks good, just need to bite the bullet and get a membership I guess since there is one about 2 miles away. Thanks. Get the lowest ~$60 membership unless you're going to be regularly shopping for a largish family or small business etc. It's worth it for cheap, quality alcohol and cheap cases of Mobile 1 oil. Their tool selection has nice driver bit/flashlight kits around Christmas and Father's Day, the LED shoplights are nice, and they have great big jugs of quality carwash soap for like $10. The seasonal meat/butcher selection owns as well. This post doubles as a secret warning to never go to Costco.
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Jul 14, 2016 01:11
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If you buy the more expensive membership but don't spend enough for it to pay for itself then they will refund you the difference (you have to request it though). The advantage of this is that they don't pester you at checkout about upgrading and if you end up buying more than expected you may save some money next renewal.
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Jul 14, 2016 01:44
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Get the lowest ~$60 membership unless you're going to be regularly shopping for a largish family or small business etc. It's worth it for cheap, quality alcohol and cheap cases of Mobile 1 oil. Their tool selection has nice driver bit/flashlight kits around Christmas and Father's Day, the LED shoplights are nice, and they have great big jugs of quality carwash soap for like $10. They've had a $10 off for a case of Mobil 1 for a while now. I would have grabbed a few but some s2k's go through it more than other brands so I just grabbed the one to see how it does. Outside of the above automotive related stuff there's plenty of poo poo to grab, even as a single dude. It's definitely worth it.
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Jul 14, 2016 02:16
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Another costco benefit is the cheap gas. It's like 10c less than everywhere else, so depending on how much you drive the membership might pay for itself right there. Plus, $1.50 polish dogs!
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Jul 14, 2016 02:39
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always be closing posted:I replaced all the brake lines on my 92 chevy 1500 with stainless, and bled the system, it has plenty of fluid, it stops as well as any 90s chevy, but the brake light on the dash still comes on. I was thinking of running one of those pressure bleeders thru it in case any bubbles were stuck in the abs system? What triggers the light? Is it possible that part is broken?
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Jul 14, 2016 02:53
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Costco is my loving poo poo. They have a pretty nice set of screwdrivers right now branded Titan 26 pc. set for 19.95 that are magnetic and very decent, IMO way better than HF. http://m.costcobusinessdelivery.com/Titan-Professional-Tools-Screwdriver-Set,-26-Piece-(17203).product.100260547.html
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Jul 14, 2016 02:58
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R-Type posted:Costco is my loving poo poo. They have a pretty nice set of screwdrivers right now branded Titan 26 pc. set for 19.95 that are magnetic and very decent, IMO way better than HF. I bought those about a month ago and have been using them pretty heavily. They hold up a hell of a lot better than the typical HF screwdriver made of cheese. (One of my few complaints about HF tools)
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Jul 14, 2016 03:03
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StormDrain posted:What triggers the light? Is it possible that part is broken? Yeah, is it the brake light, or the ABS light? If it's the brake light, usually that's a fluid level sensor right in the master reservoir, right? Or, the parking brake sensor.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:26
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StormDrain posted:What triggers the light? Is it possible that part is broken? As long as the proportioning valve isn't still stuck, the switch/circuit in the valve could have a fault somewhere; or it could be something as simple as the parking brake pedal being pushed down a click or two. That era GM trucks are notorious for both.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:33
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Raluek posted:Another costco benefit is the cheap gas. It's like 10c less than everywhere else, so depending on how much you drive the membership might pay for itself right there. Plus, $1.50 polish dogs! You get a soda too! Such a cheap lunch.
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Jul 14, 2016 03:39
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you dont need to be a costco member to get stuff at the food court. this was news to me.
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Jul 14, 2016 07:17
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Root Bear posted:As long as the proportioning valve isn't still stuck, the switch/circuit in the valve could have a fault somewhere; or it could be something as simple as the parking brake pedal being pushed down a click or two. That era GM trucks are notorious for both. Good thinking guys. When I swapped the lines out, all fluid was emptied from the system, so I am thinking it's a residual effect from that. The parking brake is all the way up, and the light comes on after driving for a minute or so, sometimes even with barely touching the brakes. I'll check the hanes manual and see if there are tests for those sensors. E- it is the red parking brake light that comes on.
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Jul 14, 2016 08:46
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That brake light is usually fluid level (if not the parking brake itself coming on) in my experience 
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Jul 14, 2016 09:03
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Tap the side of the brake fluid reservoir in case the float got stuck.
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Jul 14, 2016 14:38
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Stomp on the brakes real hard, you may feel a click or a clunk, then rebleed. The little shuttle valve/switch plunger that triggers that light usually doesn't pop back the other way till it sees a certain amount of pressure. Also, if you read FMVSS 101 (iirc) it goes over how the light is allowed to function in excruciating detail. The answer is that car makers are allowed to have separate lamps for the parking brake, brake fluid level warning, and brake fluid system failure warning, but they can also have a single lamp that handles all of these. Guess which most makes go with, because it's cheaper and takes less instrument panel space? Single lamp for any/all brake system notifications excepting ABS failures, which get their own lamp if equipped with ABS. e: if you got air in the ABS HCU (if the lines are dry, you probably did, if the lines were dry and you refilled and managed to trigger the ABS before bleeding the system, you definitely did) the only reliable way to get it back out is to either bleed, go for a drive and trigger the ABS, rebleed, and repeat until no more air comes out, or use a dealer scantool to cycle the ABS pump and solenoids while bleeding the brakes. Since it's GM, maybe there's an aftermarket/open source scantool software package that can do this? I know you can't do it on Chrysler shitboxes without a Chrysler DRB tool. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 14, 2016 15:19
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If it's the same as my 94 1500, check the front of the black ABS box for a valve. I usually zip tie a torx bit to keep it open while I'm bleeding the brakes to get any air out of the ABS system. Otherwise, yeah it's the proportioning valve causing the brake light.
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Jul 14, 2016 16:35
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nm, wrong year vehicle... My AutoEnginuity only does OBDII... you know, modern poo poo.
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jul 14, 2016 |
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Jul 14, 2016 19:53
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Mcqueen posted:you dont need to be a costco member to get stuff at the food court. If it's outside you're fine, but if it's inside maybe not. I've been asked for my card when walking in the exit to get food before.
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Jul 14, 2016 22:22
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revmoo posted:Any ideas one what I can use to clean the old wax off my friction drawer slides? WD-40 is great at removing sticky stuff.
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Jul 15, 2016 03:57
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revmoo posted:Any ideas one what I can use to clean the old wax off my friction drawer slides? Teenager-targeted face cleaning products: something something and fights waxy buildup etc.
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Jul 15, 2016 06:37
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Splizwarf posted:Teenager-targeted face cleaning products: something something and fights waxy buildup etc. Heat gun on low?
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Jul 15, 2016 09:28
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WD-40 and/or heat gun sounds like the ticket. I'm almost done refurbing this box, just got to finish the slides and install liners. I found this awesome rubber 40mil flooring underlayment that will do the trick. I was gonna have a locksmith re-key the locks but after some trial and error I was able to key the two locks myself. Everything mechanical is fixed now. The paint has been cleaning up nicely. I polished it with cutting compound which gave it the perfect amount of well-used but clean look to it. Plenty of patina and not too shiny, but very nice shape considering how old it is.
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Jul 15, 2016 13:50
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BeastOfExmoor posted:If it's outside you're fine, but if it's inside maybe not. I've been asked for my card when walking in the exit to get food before. You can just tell the door guard you're there to sign up, or you need a temporary card or some such.
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Jul 16, 2016 05:15
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Is there a hacky/cheap way to convert a vise to one that will hold a tube and prevent it from spinning and not damage/deform it? I'm trying to disassembled a suspension cartridge to revalve it, the aluminum silver part on the right has two faces that allow a 16mm open end to be used but it is threadlocked from the factory so I need to heat the poo poo out of it. I already hosed up one trying to get it apart. Fortunately, it's a RSU Yamaha R6 fork so they are basically worth nothing, especially if already damaged (which doesn't matter to me since I just need to steal the cart). 
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Jul 16, 2016 19:43
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You can get what's called a "pipe yoke vice" that bolts to a bench for cutting pipe etc, that might do the trick if you can't find pipe jaws for a regular vice. Generic Chinese ones are probably cheaper than a vice with pipe jaws on it. Though if you have a welder, making your own pipe jaws with angle iron shoudl work.
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Jul 16, 2016 20:01
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Drill a piece of wood in the same diameter, then saw it in half.
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Jul 16, 2016 21:21
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InitialDave posted:You can get what's called a "pipe yoke vice" that bolts to a bench for cutting pipe etc, that might do the trick if you can't find pipe jaws for a regular vice. Generic Chinese ones are probably cheaper than a vice with pipe jaws on it. Those look aggressive... unfortunately no welder. It's on my list. bolind posted:Drill a piece of wood in the same diameter, then saw it in half. How does that keep it from spinning though? I guess I could line it in rubber. I found a guy with two bent forks that I can have for free so I will be grabbing those today to scavenge the cartridge out of. Hopefully I can get two of the three that I will have apart without destroying them. Note to self, maybe it's worth paying a shop the extra 20% for the Ohlins valving kit and another $240 for install next time. Nahhhhhh, too easy / smart. Normally these come apart by pushing in the compression holder, pulling a circlip out, threading a bolt back into the comp holder, pulling it out, then pushing the rebound rod through the cart. This is an odd one with the loving bolted in aluminum compression holder. Pure nightmare. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jul 16, 2016 |
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Jul 16, 2016 22:42
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A machinist would use a V-Block like this: If I were you, I'd make one out of a couple of chunks of wood and stick an old inner tube in there to keep the workpiece from rotating.
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Jul 16, 2016 22:49
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Ace hardware has a rolling 6 drawer Craftsman tool chest for sale for 100 bucks: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=35692506
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Jul 16, 2016 22:52
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BlackMK4 posted:Those look aggressive... unfortunately no welder. It's on my list. Safety Dance posted:A machinist would use a V-Block like this: Bolind's wooden block should work. Just clamp the hell out of it in the vice and it should act like a pair of soft jaws. Same principle works with nylon or aluminium too.
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Jul 16, 2016 23:01
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InitialDave posted:Those are just for resting things on, though, not clamping. I usually wind up using V-blocks like this  Am I doing it wrong?
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Jul 17, 2016 00:24
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No, you're right, it's just me being thick, I don't associate the narrow pairs with being used for clamping, but of course they'd work just fine if you wanted to.
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Jul 17, 2016 01:15
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InitialDave posted:No, you're right, it's just me being thick, I don't associate the narrow pairs with being used for clamping, but of course they'd work just fine if you wanted to. It's one thing to hold light machine work, something else to hold it for beating on it with a pipe wrench because poo poo is stuck. Everything has it's place.
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Jul 17, 2016 01:22
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Motronic posted:It's one thing to hold light machine work, something else to hold it for beating on it with a pipe wrench because poo poo is stuck.
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Jul 17, 2016 01:37
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That sounds uncomfortable. So don't do that.
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Jul 17, 2016 01:45
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