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What the gently caress are these things? Are they just a bundle of a consumer wireless router + range extenders? How is this better than Ubiqiti's wireless uplink? Edit: And for that matter, how does wireless uplink differ from range extenders?
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Jul 22, 2016 00:10
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Lolcano Eruption posted:What the gently caress are these things? Are they just a bundle of a consumer wireless router + range extenders? How is this better than Ubiqiti's wireless uplink? Generally speaking: "wireless uplink" means the AP has 2 radios (2.4G + 5G) and you talk to the AP at 2.4G, and it then repeats that via the 5G frequency. This allows you to get the most speed on your connection since they don't interfere with each other. Range extenders have 1 radio (2.4G) which literally just takes your packets and repeats it back out to the next AP. But that comes with a speed/bandwidth hit since you can't do TX/RX at the same time. Beam forming/directional antennas/etc improve things greatly - which is really the big thing by adding in MIMO generation gear.
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Jul 22, 2016 16:23
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This is an dumb question I'm sure, but if I install multiple ubiquiti access points in my house, only one needs to be hardwired to the router right?
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Jul 22, 2016 19:20
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hamsystem posted:This is an dumb question I'm sure, but if I install multiple ubiquiti access points in my house, only one needs to be hardwired to the router right? Assuming you're talking about the UAP-AC-Lites and such, they all need to be hardwired; they're not a mesh system.
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Jul 22, 2016 19:26
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There is a wireless bridging mode in which you can run an isolated Ubiquiti AP in reverse effectively to connect anything attached to its Ethernet port to a network on a second AP in conventional mode. I don't think that this works like a traditional "range extender" though, the bridge-mode AP doesn't serve any wireless requests itself. I guess you could connect a third AP to it to do that, but it sounds like a dirty hack that probably wouldn't work well if at all.
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Jul 22, 2016 19:49
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Yeah, it would be to extend coverage if 1 wasn't enough. My house isn't super big though (2000 sq. ft/single story), so I'll probably just stick it in the middle of the house and go from there. All the important stuff (my stuff) will be hardwired anyways. Those freeloaders at the other end of the house can make due. 
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Jul 22, 2016 19:57
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I've got kind of an interesting setup. My house is brand new and they went a little crazy making it "modern." As a result I've got cat 6 in the walls and plugs throughout the house. I've got a 16 (I think) plug bay in the garage that they all feed into. As I understand it I can plug the modem into a router, plug one of the router outputs into one of those 16 wall plugs, then put a switch in the garage and run that to some/all of the other ports. The house is 2000 sq. ft, but spread vertically across 3 floors. I don't have much outdoor space, so the signal doesn't need to go far. I'm not a networking expert so my current plan is to plug in a router on each floor with the same SSID and hope for the best. Is there a better way to get optimal wifi throughout the house? Also, are there any other cool things I can do with all these god drat ethernet ports? Edit: the main problem I see with my current plan is that when time warner decides to take a dump I'll have to run all over the house reseting routers, which seems less than ideal. Hefty fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 20:51
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Here's how it should go: Modem -> wired router -> 16 or 24 port switch -> connect those 16 ports to the switch -> three wireless access points, one on each floor. If you have a good modem (Arris) and other equipment, power cycling won't be an issue. You really only have to do that with low end stuff. Cable Modem: Arris Surfboard SB6183 or SB6141 Router: Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite or Edgerouter X Switch: TP-Link 24 port Gigabit Switch TL-SG1024D or Ubiquiti EdgeMax Edgeswitch 24 ES-24-250W if you don't want to inject PoE to each AP Access Points: 3x Ubiquiti Unifi AC Lite or AC Pro And a poo poo ton of Cat6 patch cables of various lengths Lolcano Eruption fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 21:17
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This is incredibly helpful. Thanks so much!
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Jul 22, 2016 21:36
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I think what I am asking is similar to what the guy on this same page was talking about, but I'm really network dumb, so can somebody treat me like a child really quick. I recently bought the Arris SB6183 to replace the TWC provided modem and the TP-Link Archer C5 to replace the Belkin wireless router that I've had for years. Everything was peachy until I decided to move the furniture from our front room to the back room to use the back room as our living room. Our modem/router are in that front room. Now, a few of the devices that do not have the ability to connect to 5ghz have poo poo speeds. What is the best way to extend the range? I was thinking about seeing if I could use the old belkin in the back room and somehow connect it to the modem/router in the front room but I am learning that it needs to be wired for there to be an access point. Am I correct? I don't want a 30 foot cable running throughout the house if I am correct. Can somebody explain to me if I am completely wrong, what another option would be, or if I am just boned. Thanks for any help.
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Jul 24, 2016 19:32
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Wired replacement if you don't have the wires is use powerline ethernet adapters to bridge between rooms much faster. Good ones are around 70 bucks. Running in repeater mode does as the title implies and improves signal at a cost of bandwidth.
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Jul 24, 2016 20:15
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notwithoutmyanus posted:Wired replacement if you don't have the wires is use powerline ethernet adapters to bridge between rooms much faster. Good ones are around 70 bucks. Running in repeater mode does as the title implies and improves signal at a cost of bandwidth. I remember seeing those awhile back. That might be a good solution. Thanks.
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Jul 24, 2016 20:31
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CancerStick posted:I remember seeing those awhile back. That might be a good solution. Thanks. Just be sure to buy them from a place with a good return policy since if you have to cross a breaker, performance can drop precipitously. mediaphage fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Jul 25, 2016 |
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Jul 25, 2016 15:39
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I'm not sure this is the right thread to ask but I figure it's related and you dudes might know Whats the easiest vpn/alternative method to trick spotify into letting me family share? I live in Australia, trying to share with someone with a New Zealand based account who is in Australia. It doesn't need to be permanent or anything, just enough for me to make the account cause he uses it here with no issues.
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Jul 28, 2016 01:43
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I'm looking for a comprehensive bit of software that will sit in the background and constantly monitor my internet connection and record logs of pretty much every thing that happens with preferably an easy to understand output of this information. I am in the process of trying to show my service provider that when it rains my connection goes to poo poo (constant disconnections etc). My modem only records logs for a 12 hour or so period and is very limited in how it shows what is happening. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Jul 28, 2016 19:52
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Jippa posted:I'm looking for a comprehensive bit of software that will sit in the background and constantly monitor my internet connection and record logs of pretty much every thing that happens with preferably an easy to understand output of this information. Wireshark is the first thing that comes to mind for me. Just keep in mind that running a capture for a long time on a busy connection can use up an awful lot of disk space. As for easy to understand, well, reading packet captures kind of requires you to have a basic understanding of IP, TCP, UDP, and sometimes ICMP. (knowledge of upper level protocols like HTTP and TLS is also often very helpful depending on what you are doing) As a professional network engineer I find wireshark captures to be easy to read and very informative. But most people are not network engineers. But there are plenty of guides on the internet if you don't mind spending some time on it. You can even buy the book. I own the book myself and its quite useful. Antillie fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 15:22
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I'm VERY interested in seeing some reviews on Ubiquiti's new AmpliFi system. I had pretty much decided to take the plunge in to all Ubiquiti equipment for my new house but was pretty intimidated by the potential learning curve. This new system looks awesome and I just hope it performs that way too.
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Jul 29, 2016 17:16
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suddenlyissoon posted:I'm VERY interested in seeing some reviews on Ubiquiti's new AmpliFi system. I had pretty much decided to take the plunge in to all Ubiquiti equipment for my new house but was pretty intimidated by the potential learning curve. This new system looks awesome and I just hope it performs that way too. ArsTechnica: Hands-on: Ubiquiti’s Amplifi covers the whole house in a Wi-Fi mesh and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cad06YwIbrA&t=111s
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Jul 29, 2016 17:57
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Just ended up ordering the LR since it would get here faster.
hamsystem fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jul 29, 2016 |
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Jul 29, 2016 19:26
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CrazyLittle posted:ArsTechnica: Hands-on: Ubiquiti’s Amplifi covers the whole house in a Wi-Fi mesh Wow, this is sounding better and better. It's basically the price of 2 Ubiquiti AC access points AND you don't have to bring your own routing device. I might be sold.
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Jul 29, 2016 21:24
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suddenlyissoon posted:Wow, this is sounding better and better. It's basically the price of 2 Ubiquiti AC access points AND you don't have to bring your own routing device. I might be sold. If it holds up it might be my go-to for family/friends with larger homes that need something more than a modem/router combo or Archer series.
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Jul 29, 2016 22:38
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Got a few questions about setting up my ER-L. For firewall I'm following this guide more or less to set up a zone based firewall. The first step he enables/disables these global settings: code:Second, I've noticed a lot of firewall guides setting up a DMZ as well. Is this something that I need as a home consumer? Third, I want to set up a VPN server on the router. I guess IPSec is hardware accelerated while OpenVPN isn't. I can't find where I read it anymore but I remember seeing a blog post saying that IPSec on the ER-L was 1 order of magnitude faster than OpenVPN in throughput. One benefit I keep seeing about OpenVPN is that I can set a custom port eg 443 which more or less means it'll never be blocked on any wifi I join whereas I can't do that with IPSec. If I don't really care about that then I should just go IPSec yes? (As an aside I just looked at my iPhone's VPN settings and don't even see an option to add an OpenVPN server so that's another strike against that I guess.) Last question: my ISP gives me an ipv6 address. I know that it's "better" than ipv4 but what exactly does that mean for me. Like can I just disable ipv4 functionality on the router and use only ipv6 or is that a terrible idea? TIA e: Oh one more thing, if I don't want to use Google's DNS servers because  is there an alternative that's privacy based and/or should I just set up my own server on the router (like [url=https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/204959594-EdgeMAX-Install-and-Configure-BIND-DNS-Server-on-the-Router]this[/url)?
Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 11:07
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OpenDNS is free and includes some phishing/malware/other threat blocking stuff among other things if you want to go that route. Their public servers are 208.67.222.222 and 208.67.220.220. You don't need an account to use them, just to customize things. Edit: this KB page sums things up pretty well.
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Jul 30, 2016 13:28
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Hopefully this question isn't too stupid. I'm trying to setup VPN on my EdgeRouter Lite using these instructions. So far I can't connect. Do I also need to change the router's firewall to open incoming connections on UDP port 1701?
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Aug 1, 2016 11:19
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Ynglaur posted:Hopefully this question isn't too stupid. Your firewall config should look like this: 
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Aug 1, 2016 13:59
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I just moved into a new place. My last one, the cable for internet connectivity just came out of the wall. Here, there is only a jack. I'm on Comcast, do I need a specific type of coaxial cable, or is it just standard RG6?
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Aug 1, 2016 16:32
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I just moved into a new place. My last one, the cable for internet connectivity just came out of the wall. Here, there is only a jack. Just RG6 will work fine. Probably.
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Aug 1, 2016 16:38
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hamsystem posted:Just ended up ordering the LR since it would get here faster. Me too. Thanks for the advice everyone- once we added the addition to our split level house the WiFi has been spotty in the new space.
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Aug 1, 2016 18:43
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Rukus posted:Your firewall config should look like this: Thanks: this is exactly what I needed. (Picture worth a thousand words etc.). I won't be back home until Sunday but I'll let everyone know if this solves my problems. (I really do need to find time to write that e/n post on "How someone who things they know what they're doing went about setting up a home network with semi-commercial grade gear.")
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Aug 1, 2016 18:52
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UndyingShadow posted:Just RG6 will work fine. Probably. Yeah RG6 on its own is fine. If possible, eliminate any splitters between you and the pole, and if you need a splitter make sure you get one that's designed for 5-1000mhz because cheap splitters will cut off some of the signal. Also don't get a splitter that has more sockets than you actually need. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 19:23
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OK. I don't think we'll need one, and the current one(s) are in the walls to split between units. Actually, how does that work? If there are two Comcast accounts at the same location, will they share the highest speed connection, or can they distinguish between two accounts?
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Aug 1, 2016 20:22
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22 Eargesplitten posted:OK. I don't think we'll need one, and the current one(s) are in the walls to split between units. I would imagine Comcast would provision the speeds on their end based on some unique identifier in each of the modems.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:35
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:I would imagine Comcast would provision the speeds on their end based on some unique identifier in each of the modems. This. DOCSIS modems pick different modem frequency channels on the wire since all of the neighboring modems share the same coaxial local loop anyways.
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Aug 1, 2016 20:39
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Okay, that makes sense then.
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Aug 1, 2016 23:31
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I'd like to get a new router. I'm currently using a Asus RT-N66U, flashed with DD-WRT, and I'd like to get something with AC to help increase range/support all my poo poo. My network is laid out as follows: (Directly hooked up to Router) - Cable modem, Arris CM820A (provided by ISP) - Linux Plex server, running a VM for Crashplan backups - Powerline Ethernet adapter, 200Mbps  - Synology NAS hosting media over NFS - 1GB/E switch (some lovely 8-port Cisco one) ^- Network printer ^- Obihai VOIP adapter ^- Raspberry Pi acting as a pi-hole ad blocker TV area - Powerline ethernet adapter ^- 8-port 1GB Cisco switch - PS4 - Roku - Raspberry Pi running RetroPie 2 Laptops 2 Cell phones (apple/android) 2 Tablets 2 Chromecasts (living room/bedroom) I was looking at the following for upgrades, and was hoping if I'd get some advice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192911RA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER - NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER - TP-LINK AV1200 Powerline Adapter Thoughts? Suggestions? I've also noticed needing to reboot the router more often than not to help with some slowdowns/hangs I've had when working on the laptops. BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Aug 2, 2016 |
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Aug 2, 2016 02:39
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What's your budget? Given your relatively heavy needs, would you consider getting the unifi APs and something to host the software (maybe your Plex server can do double duty, depending on what it's running on)?
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Aug 2, 2016 17:08
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mediaphage posted:What's your budget? Given your relatively heavy needs, would you consider getting the unifi APs and something to host the software (maybe your Plex server can do double duty, depending on what it's running on)? I'm not looking to spend more than $300. When you say "something to host the software", what exactly do you mean? I'm running Ubuntu 16.04.1, FWIW.
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Aug 2, 2016 18:13
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A pair of UAP-AC-Lites and an EdgeRouter X should leave you some cash for a newer set of powerline adapters. Unifi AC APs are like next level awesome compared to garbage consumer level wifi. If you have coax cable in your walls that isn't being used for TV signal, a pair of DECA adapters ($15 on Amazon) will deliver rock-solid 100 megabit connectivity between two points. Powerline adapters may advertise higher speeds, but the connection will not be anywhere near as consistent as with DECA adapters.
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Aug 2, 2016 20:49
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I just moved into a new apartment and am shopping for the cheapest possible internet and a router that can deal with it. My landlord mentioned that Verizon is already installed and I'm pretty sure she said it was FIOS. Not sure if it helps but here's an explanation of the setup: There's a small black unit in a power outlet with a green cord (like an RJ-45 cable) connected to it, with the plug being inaccessible and a metal tag connected to it, I'd assume to show tampering. Also connected to the unit is what looks like a coax cable screwed into the unit. Both of these cables are coming from the walls. Coming out of the unit is a coax cable, I guess for a MOCA connection since there's an identical one coming out of the walls of the living room. From this it looks like the last tenant was using some TV-internet bundle. So the total amount of devices used would include: 2 laptops 2 cell phones 1 smart TV 1 Roku connected to a different TV 1 computer (wired) Possibly a PS4 in the future I've gotten by with an old Linksys wrt160n router and Charter's cheapest internet setup with no real need for more, since the most demanding task for us is Netflix streaming. Should I update my router even though there's only two casual users in a pretty small space? The real question is what can I do to get the cheapest possible price on internet for Verizon? Do I have to go with and pay FIOS prices if a DSL connection would be better for my budget? Would going through installing my own router instead of renting one from Verizon meaningfully decrease my bill? Is there anything I can say to attempt to get a better rate? My landlord stressed that she would prefer we don't go with any other provider so they don't drill any more holes in the walls, but I guess I could bluff going with AT&T if that works at all. I get confused with internet billing since it always seems so conditional and nebulous. Edit: keep in mind I know nothing about networking if that isn't already evident, but I'm willing to learn complicated stuff like flashing custom firmware or learning enough to talk to technicians. for sale fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Aug 3, 2016 |
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Aug 3, 2016 09:17
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Man the website that I have to use to toy around with my Unifi AP (I got the AC Lite model) sucks, like a lot. The software requires Java on Windows to even run so that's already a huge gigantic strike against it but it seems to not need Java on OS X so that's something I guess. It's really slow and like most of the stuff that loads up is totally useless for me since I don't have a Unifi router/switch to pair it with. Can I just ssh into it and configure it via CLI like I can with the ER?
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Aug 3, 2016 16:11
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