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Rhyno posted:Google is confusing me. Does a 2005 Cavalier have a post-cat 02 sensor? One of my friends started her car to discover her cat had been sawed off and she's not doing so well financially right now so I was thinking she could just get a straight pipe welded in. Possible? They do. It will throw a p0420 if the cat is removed. My suggestion is if cheap is the option get one from the junkyard. Cheapest option if you have a welder friend. If not a shop won't charge much to weld it in.
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Aug 16, 2016 23:40
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 02:50 |
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 Can someone please identify this car?
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Aug 17, 2016 01:33
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Looks like a Chrysler Fifth Avenue or something in that vein.
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Aug 17, 2016 01:38
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Eskaton posted:
As zun said it is an 83-89 5th avenue
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Aug 17, 2016 01:52
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Thanks, boys and girls.
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Aug 17, 2016 03:02
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SouthsideSaint posted:They do. It will throw a p0420 if the cat is removed. My suggestion is if cheap is the option get one from the junkyard. Cheapest option if you have a welder friend. If not a shop won't charge much to weld it in. It's illegal for junkyards to sell cats. Or to sell used cats in general. Generic ebay cat would probably be the best option.
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Aug 17, 2016 05:00
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Really? Who would stop them? Same with spark plug defoulers on amazon...
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Aug 17, 2016 05:14
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some texas redneck posted:It's illegal for junkyards to sell cats. Or to sell used cats in general. Yup, all local HYs cut them off. She has very little money right now and needs the car to get back and forth to work so her boyfriend bought some couplers and pipe at Autozone and slapped it on there just to quiet it down. Cheapest quote they got locally was $260 before labor. (local exhaust shops a all poo poo). I found something that will work on Ebay for about $100 so myself and her other friends are all gonna toss in $10 each and get it for her, we'll find somebody to weld it in later.
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Aug 17, 2016 05:17
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One for the engineers: Is it easier to independently control bound and rebound valved vs magnetorheological dampers?
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Aug 17, 2016 13:01
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drgitlin posted:One for the engineers: Is it easier to independently control bound and rebound valved vs magnetorheological dampers? It's easier with valves. You can get independant bound and rebount with a single check valve. Magnetorheological dampers require power supplys electromagnets, and control circuitry.
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Aug 17, 2016 14:30
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I run the air conditioning in my car for about a minute on 1 or 2 (4 is the max) with fresh air coming in the vents. After a little bit, I turn the air off and set the vents to recirculated air. It feels just like air conditioning and I notice no difference. Does doing this actually save on gas or wear and tear on engine parts by turning the air conditioner off? Or is this somehow worse than if I just let the air conditioner run? I don't seem to notice any difference either way. My car is a 2012 Chevy Malibu.
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Aug 17, 2016 14:32
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There's a really good chance you're not actually turning the AC off when you think you are. For instance, if you have the defroster vents open, many cars will turn on the AC compressor regardless of whatever other settings you have going on. And in at least one case, the AC was used to stop fuel boiling issue in one car... so you couldn't turn it off, at all. But to answer the rest of your question, yes, turning off the AC saves both fuel, and wear and tear on your AC compressor. That said, AC compressors live in a bath of oil, they don't exactly wear out frequently. I've ~never~ worn one out. It sorta sounds like you've got a refigerant leak, when was the last time you had your system checked?
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Aug 17, 2016 14:51
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Nerobro posted:
How on earth did you reach that conclusion? The air will stay cool for a while even without having any refrigerant pumped through the system, which is why it still feels like the air con is on to Vinny. Don't you think that's a vastly more likely scenario in a 2012 car?
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Aug 17, 2016 14:59
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Memento posted:How on earth did you reach that conclusion? The air will stay cool for a while even without having any refrigerant pumped through the system, which is why it still feels like the air con is on to Vinny. Don't you think that's a vastly more likely scenario in a 2012 car? Typically the difference between a/c compressor on, and off air is pretty stark. If the difference isn't very sharp, there's a good chance the system is starved of refigerant, and it takes more time to get cool. If the OP isn't noticing, it sounds like the difference isn't great. Alternatively, he's got a setting on the system that isn't actually having the a/c compressor shut off when they think they're shutting it off. What I was trying to get at, without saying so much, is he's percieving functioning a/c, when it's not really working. It sounds to me like his system is running on air, without enough working material to have phase chance. That causes the "kinda, sorta, well there's something of a difference" functioning. Vinny the Shark posted:I run the air conditioning in my car for about a minute on 1 or 2 (4 is the max) with fresh air coming in the vents.
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Aug 17, 2016 15:15
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Yeah unless it's got a 25 square foot evaporator with 20 pounds of thermal mass, it should warm noticeably pretty fast after shutting off the compressor. I'd verify good operation with a vent thermometer, once the cabin's cool the vent air should be in the 40-50F range.
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Aug 17, 2016 16:08
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Christobevii3 posted:Really? Who would stop them? Same with spark plug defoulers on amazon... EPA/state DEP/state health inspector, but also in many states, any police officer. They mostly are looking for illegally scrapped cars brought in without title after being stolen and/or yards that will buy scrapmetal and catcons without getting ID from the sellers (AKA buying stolen cats, because once word gets out that a scrapyard doesn't ask for ID, you know where all the tweakers are bringing their hot stuff) but they can bust a yard for breaking the rules anytime they want. Most yards around here hire an offduty cop on weekends to do a detail for them because all the local shitheads try to steal stuff from them and it helps to have a cop right there to deal with it/dissuade people from trying. The one at my favorite yard tried to hire me to pull some parts and fix his car last time I was there, sadly I was way too drat busy 
kastein fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Aug 17, 2016 |
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Aug 17, 2016 16:50
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Nerobro posted:Does your AC blow frosty cold, or is it just "a little cooler"? Can you hear the a/c compressor clicking on and off? Can you see condensation on the low pressure line? It blows pretty cold. And yes I hear it clicking on and off when I push the snowflake button on the dashboard. Haven't checked the low pressure line since... well ever actually. All I can say is that when the vents are on without AC vs with AC, the difference is huge- it's not just a slight difference. And if I shut the AC off while still taking in fresh air, it warms up fairly quickly. Maybe the AC isn't tuning off after all? I don't know enough about cars or AC systems to really be sure. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Aug 18, 2016 03:59
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When I use the recirculation mode in my car, I continue to get cold air for a little while, but it eventually starts to warm up and also get kind of manky/humid. So running recirc without AC isn't some kind of perfect fix, but it can extend the amount of "cold time" you get for a given amount of AC usage, by a minute or two.
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Aug 18, 2016 04:03
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Vinny the Shark posted:Maybe the AC isn't tuning off after all? I don't know enough about cars or AC systems to really be sure. Thanks for the replies everyone. The question you should be asking is "Can I feel a difference in engine power with the A/C fully on/off?" If your car needs like 40 hp to maintain highway speeds, the extra 3 hp or so that the compressor uses translates to a measurable but small increase in fuel consumption. In any case, the compressor is designed to run more or less continuously, and modern climate control systems are designed and programmed with fuel economy in mind. Min/maxing by manually cycling the compressor probably isn't worth the hassle.
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Aug 18, 2016 04:32
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I want to apply some detail to my car in the same vein as this: What do you guys propose as the best way to get a line parallel to the bottom of the door? It's tricky because the ground the car is parked on may not be level, so I can't use a carpenter's level. E: I'm going to be using plasti dip and a custom design, so "buy a stencil" isn't exactly an answer
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Aug 18, 2016 14:21
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I want to apply some detail to my car in the same vein as this: Will a good old fashioned ruler not suffice? As long as your door doesn't have some sort of ridiculous curve I would think it should be as simple as measuring and marking at several intervals to form points for a perfectly parallel line. Even if it was ridiculously curved you could get over that with a tailor's tape measure.
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Aug 18, 2016 14:52
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Whiteboard marker if you want to measure, a line of masking tape in whatever size you want the decal off the door bottom if you don't.
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Aug 18, 2016 14:56
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Adding to that, use a carpenter's scribe to mark off a fixed distance from your door sil.
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Aug 18, 2016 15:48
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88h88 posted:Whiteboard marker if you want to measure, a line of masking tape in whatever size you want the decal off the door bottom if you don't. Masking tape was going to be my suggestion. Should help to keep things even if you have a curve in the door as well.
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Aug 18, 2016 17:05
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If you don't want a scratch in your factory paint under the decal/vinyl don't scribe it. What I'd do is make sure that the release paper on the applique has the bottom edge parallel to the artwork you're applying, then use whiteboard markers and masking tape to set up a line offset the right distance from the bottom of the door. Then all you do is apply it with the edge of the release paper parallel/adjacent to the edge of the masking tape.
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Aug 18, 2016 19:41
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Is there a thread for open source ECU maps and stuff? I scanned through the forum and resource thread and didn't find one. I'd rather ask goons my noob questions about this than other stupid forums.
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Aug 18, 2016 21:00
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Immolat1on posted:Is there a thread for open source ECU maps and stuff? I scanned through the forum and resource thread and didn't find one. I'd rather ask goons my noob questions about this than other stupid forums. There's this thread, back on page 4: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3745292
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Aug 19, 2016 00:47
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I was driving my friend's e350 van. Stopped it to drop some people off, started it and did a u-turn before parking and turning it off again, then started it a few minutes later and had zero power steering. Fluid is full. Assuming either the belt or the pump or the gearbox went out. Gonna take it to the mechanic in the morning. Hopefully than can fix it quick cause my friend needs to drive five people 150 miles on Sunday. Is it weird for one of those parts to just fail without warning like that?
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Aug 19, 2016 05:00
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Fords really don't like full lock.
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Aug 19, 2016 05:16
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Does the pump change rpm when you rev? Could be belt or a screen. Hopefully some 80 year old woman isn't driving them 150 miles with firestone tires...
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Aug 19, 2016 05:32
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No, a guy in his mid thirties who's going to spend most of the drive on long, straight, Midwestern interstates. Geirskogul posted:Fords really don't like full lock. Well, his instructions to me when he gave me the van were "and then just really crank the wheel" when needing to do a sharp turn...
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Aug 19, 2016 06:14
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BMW E87LCI, so, rear wheel drive. Trying to get the driver's side axle out, didn't succeed. What should I try? Did the passenger side a few weeks ago which came out fine with a little persuasion from the deadblow. Basically the procedure is to unbolt the diff-end of the axle from the diff flange (six bolts), take off the axle center nut on the wheel-end of the axle, and then it "just slides" out of the hub. Except this time, it very much didn't. Wailed on it with a BFH and gave it with the air chisel too, didn't move at all. What should I do/what tool should I get?
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Aug 19, 2016 12:42
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Christobevii3 posted:Does the pump change rpm when you rev? Could be belt or a screen. Was the pump. I'm still weirded out that it would let go that abruptly, but I'm guessing there was a noise he was ignoring.
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Aug 19, 2016 14:44
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Uthor posted:Was the pump. I'm still weirded out that it would let go that abruptly, but I'm guessing there was a noise he was ignoring. It's a Ford. It's probably been making a similar noise since it left the factory. The only Ford I've ever seen without power steering pump whine/grumble was my dad's Ranger when we had the motor out of it.
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Aug 19, 2016 14:59
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How much extra wear occurs to snow tires when theyre driven in the summer? I have a winter car and found a pretty good deal on a set of dedicated snow tires, but it gets driven occasionally in the summer and warmer months. Not much though, as I've only put 8-9k miles on it in the exactly two years I've owned it. The specific tire is General brand Altimax Artics. The set I have now are undersized, so I would like to get rid of the set instead of swapping them out every year.
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Aug 19, 2016 17:03
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You should buy steelies for the winter tires if you don't already have them.
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Aug 19, 2016 17:10
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Depends on the exact tire, IIRC altimax arctics do OK in summer but that's from reading internet posts about it a while ago. Blizzaks I found via the same research were famous for evaporating when driven above freezing. Even driving like a dickhead on back roads and such, I got a full season (40-50k a year for me) out of a set of firestone winterforces on my XJ. Admittedly the rear right was rather spanked by the end of that time, but I feel like that had more to do with sliding around corners with an open diff than what compound the tires were made from.
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Aug 19, 2016 17:19
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Rhyno posted:You should buy steelies for the winter tires if you don't already have them. 
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Aug 19, 2016 17:46
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Cage posted:Whys that? I just have plain jane explorer wheels. So that you don't have to go to the tire shop twice a year to get your winter tires mounted / dismounted. You just throw your winter tires+wheels on the car when it gets cold, and take them off when it gets warm again. Saves wear and tear on your tires as well.
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Aug 19, 2016 17:48
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Safety Dance posted:So that you don't have to go to the tire shop twice a year to get your winter tires mounted / dismounted. You just throw your winter tires+wheels on the car when it gets cold, and take them off when it gets warm again. Saves wear and tear on your tires as well.
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Aug 19, 2016 17:49
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