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I have a stupid question. I have a '06 Honda Civic with 100k+ miles on it. I took it in for an oil change today at a Havoline Xpress Lube, and I got the transmission flush. Now I'm reading that Hondas require their own special transmission fluid and that transmission flushes aren't recommended. Did I gently caress up my car? Do I need to take it to a dealership and get the fluid changed to the special Honda approved stuff?
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Sep 2, 2016 20:55
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Yet another reason to take it off the road. She can be that cool professor with the classic car, but costs and maintenance for a nearly 20 year old car will only go up. Parts will get discontinued and then you have to go into the aftermarket. If she is wrenching on it, great. If not, daily driving a car that old will get expensive. Just browse cars.com, eBay etc..., find the most perfect low mileage Mini and then drain all the fluids and mothball it in a velvet lined garage until the great reawakening day comes
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Sep 2, 2016 20:56
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My air compressor has stopped working. When I try and turn it on, it doesn't do anything but either its reset switch pops out or it blows the 13A fuse in its mains supply. It's a Sealey 100l 3hp one which came with a 12 month warranty and is obviously now 13 months old. It was very reasonably priced and ive seen a very similar one with a different name on so i suspect it is a chinesium one that has been branded. Instructions here - http://www.sealey.co.uk/pdfs/instructions/SAC10030VE.pdf I have done some googling and it looks like a faulty capacitor is one of the common reasons for a compressor motor not starting. It has 2 very large caps on it. I have now bought myself a proper multi meter to test the capacitors with. What is the best method of discharging one before doing this? Is shorting it with a screwdriver really a good technique? Does anybody have any other suggestions? It hasn't been used that much so i'm quite annoyed at it breaking.
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Sep 2, 2016 20:57
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If the motor will still turn freely by hand with the mains unplugged and the belt off you probably just need a replacement starting cap or relay, unless you smelled a distinct magic smoke odor last time it ran. Use a suitably high value resistor to trickle discharge the cap - motor start caps usually aren't designed for pulse loads and shorting it with a screwdriver can cause slight damage, theoretically. If you don't feel like faffing about with it just screwdriver it, it will probably be fine. What meter did you get for testing caps? Most don't have a capacitance measurement position, but you can of course test for shorts and opens. If it's open circuited it will read as infinite resistance, if it is shorted it will test as low resistance constantly. If it is normal and starts out discharged, it will start out reading low resistance and then increase to a high value over time and/or go to infinity. If it is normal and starts out charged, the meter will make a popping noise and/or emit magic smoke. Depending on how vengeful you're feeling, you could buy a second one, swap start caps and/or motors off it, and return it as DOA. 13 months into a 12 month warranty with only light usage is a bullshit time for a failure.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:07
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Grant DaNasty posted:I have a stupid question. I have a '06 Honda Civic with 100k+ miles on it. I took it in for an oil change today at a Havoline Xpress Lube, and I got the transmission flush. Now I'm reading that Hondas require their own special transmission fluid and that transmission flushes aren't recommended. If they filled with the non-Honda spec, then yes, you need to empty and fill with Honda spec. Transmission flush you can't undo.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:22
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Yet another reason to take it off the road. She can be that cool professor with the classic car, but costs and maintenance for a nearly 20 year old car will only go up. Parts will get discontinued and then you have to go into the aftermarket. If she is wrenching on it, great. If not, daily driving a car that old will get expensive. That's my feeling now as well. I'm going to drop any talk of getting rid of it, but since her commute is so short she might even consider a scooter - she's ridden them in Southeast Asia while doing fieldwork and thus I am confident in her ability to manage one safely here in the US. Also I will definitely have to use the "cool professor" angle and mention that it can be another hobby to complement her vegetable garden.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:33
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kastein posted:That feels like a comms issue between the diagnostic tool and the ECU more than anything else. So you'd still say that this indicates that the sensors can't be read, not that they don't have any errors to report, correct? Which means that before I can get smog checked, I have to figure out what's wrong with the system and get that fixed.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:34
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kastein posted:If the motor will still turn freely by hand with the mains unplugged and the belt off you probably just need a replacement starting cap or relay, unless you smelled a distinct magic smoke odor last time it ran. Didn't smell any magic smoke. Its in my shed remote from the garage where i use the air. Last time i turned it off I remember just walking into the shed after shutting up the garage and hitting its switch. It had air pressure left in the tank when it wouldn't start so it must have been running fine (I've since let that out to see if it enabled it to start). I have a vague memory of it sounding a bit wierd when it was running just before I turned it off - though I had just taken my ear muffs off after 25 mins of air chisel cleaning up a rusty lump of landrover so everything sounded loud and wierd. I don't have any big resistors. is it worth just sticking some load on it to discharge it before i screwdriver it? I've bought one of the cheap Flukes - a 15B - which will do diodes and capacitors. Considering I bought it to replace a smaller Clarke one (I don't think you get Clarke in the US but they are also budget mid-range re branded Chinese stuff with UK warranty and parts support) that was 15 years old and still working after loads of abuse and many hours of run time it is indeed lovely. That is a good idea. Will check out how much the capacitor costs first. Looks like if I'm lucky it will be £10-£15 - which i don't mind spending.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:35
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I wouldn't bother if you don't have anything handy. An old headlamp, foglamp, or incandescent house light bulb would be perfectly fine as a load to empty it out. Honestly if it's been more than half an hour it's probably empty already anyways but a few hundred volts is nothing to trifle with.TooMuchAbstraction posted:So you'd still say that this indicates that the sensors can't be read, not that they don't have any errors to report, correct? Which means that before I can get smog checked, I have to figure out what's wrong with the system and get that fixed. Given that it can read oil pressure and RPMs and stuff I'm probably wrong. Either way, something is funky because those shouldn't all be "N/A". Are there any dealers for the brand that have a smog station in them nearby? I bet they could either fix it or their equipment would work. If it's within emissions warranty period (80k miles or 8/10 years, can't remember which), it should definitely be a free fix, given that you can't pass emissions without it being fixed.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:39
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Goober Peas posted:If they filled with the non-Honda spec, then yes, you need to empty and fill with Honda spec. Transmission flush you can't undo. Transmission flushes are one of those things you should either do every 25,000 miles or never.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:39
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kastein posted:Given that it can read oil pressure and RPMs and stuff I'm probably wrong. Either way, something is funky because those shouldn't all be "N/A". Are there any dealers for the brand that have a smog station in them nearby? I bet they could either fix it or their equipment would work. If it's within emissions warranty period (80k miles or 8/10 years, can't remember which), it should definitely be a free fix, given that you can't pass emissions without it being fixed. 130k miles and it's an '03. Really not relishing taking it in to the dealer, but it's looking like that's my only option. poo poo.  This whole registration-renewal thing has been a pain in the rear end, since I had to get the hybrid battery replaced twice, each time requires driving before I can go in to smog check, and since I'm not currently working I just don't have that much reason to drive anywhere. So now the renewal is due Sept 8th and the loving sensors are acting up. And they were working fine before the battery got replaced the second time; at the very least, the CEL was coming on!Argh. This kind of poo poo is why I want an electric vehicle.
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Sep 2, 2016 21:42
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kastein posted:I wouldn't bother if you don't have anything handy. An old headlamp, foglamp, or incandescent house light bulb would be perfectly fine as a load to empty it out. Honestly if it's been more than half an hour it's probably empty already anyways but a few hundred volts is nothing to trifle with. Haha. I have all of those items handy! Compressor has been off and unplugged from the mains since last weekend. Does this mean it will be empty already anyway and I'm just overly concerned? I'll put a bulb on it and see!
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Sep 2, 2016 23:21
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Took the car to another service station, and their scanner was able to see my readiness monitors just fine. Said that the EGR, Catalyst, and EVAP monitors weren't ready yet, but the others were. When I came home, I tried my OBDII scanner again, and now it can see those monitors as well.  So now I just have to figure out what kind of driving those specific monitors want, do said driving, and then get smogged. Hooray for not having to take the car in to the dealership!
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Sep 2, 2016 23:30
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Weird. Oh well, drive the wheels off it and see what happens. A couple reasonably long mixed highway and surface road drives usually does the trick.Tomarse posted:Haha. I have all of those items handy! Almost certainly but you aren't going to hurt anything dropping a headlamp on it for a moment anyways. If it doesn't glow at all you're safe.
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Sep 2, 2016 23:40
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kastein posted:A couple reasonably long mixed highway and surface road drives usually does the trick. I was shocked to see the readiness driving pattern printed in the instruction manual for my new car. It's worth looking to see if it's there.
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Sep 2, 2016 23:46
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:I was shocked to see the readiness driving pattern printed in the instruction manual for my new car. It's worth looking to see if it's there. Good call; thanks! The big thing that I ran into, I think, is that the EVAP test only works if the gas tank is only 30-70% full, and I happened to refill my tank right before getting the battery replaced. There's also some stuff in the manual about running at 2k RPM while in park for awhile, and driving at highway speeds and then coasting to a stop. Guess I'll be going for a short road trip tomorrow.
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Sep 3, 2016 00:14
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The best problems are the ones solved by going for a drive.
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Sep 3, 2016 00:15
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It would be more AI if you could time it so that it goes into ready as you pull into the smog station.
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Sep 3, 2016 00:52
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Transmission flushes are one of those things you should either do every 25,000 miles or never. Agreed. Which is why I never recommend them.
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Sep 3, 2016 01:41
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I always changed it with my radiator fluid on my 4L60E and never had issues. 5-6 years
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Sep 3, 2016 03:35
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Drain & fill vs power flush.
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Sep 3, 2016 03:40
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So I've got a 2007 Toyota Auris 2.2 diesel with what I'm pretty sure is dead alternator ("check battery" warning light and a fuel filter warning, the internet suggests that means alternator trouble, which makes sense to me). It's a fairly standard common-rail turbo diesel with electric power steering. I've already had to stop it once. Anyone got a rough idea of how far I could expect to drive it on the battery? There's a garage about 4 miles away but they have no courtesy cars available so I'd have to get a taxi home. The other option is to drive it home (~6 miles) and take it to another garage on Monday that's about 3 miles further on and which probably will have courtesy cars, but is closed today. I know there's no exact answers, but if the answer is "maybe 50 miles" then I'll take the second option of two restarts and ~10 miles. If it's "you'll be lucky to go 5 miles" then I'll take the first option. (The first garage can't do a tow either fwiw). Zephro fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Sep 3, 2016 |
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Sep 3, 2016 11:56
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kastein posted:Weird. Oh well, drive the wheels off it and see what happens. A couple reasonably long mixed highway and surface road drives usually does the trick. The starting Capacitor reads 233 uF on the meter and is labelled as a 200MFD so looks like it probably isnt that
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Sep 3, 2016 15:18
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Tomarse posted:The starting Capacitor reads 233 uF on the meter and is labelled as a 200MFD so looks like it probably isnt that 200MFD probably means microfarads (uF) for dumb reasons. If I recall correctly, a real megafarad capacitor would be one of those gigantic things that has no reason to exist in the real world. https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/blog/is-mf-mfd-the-same-as-uf/
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Sep 3, 2016 19:07
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Safety Dance posted:200MFD probably means microfarads (uF) for dumb reasons. If I recall correctly, a real megafarad capacitor would be one of those gigantic things that has no reason to exist in the real world. I found that link and mine is labelled exactly like the example one. Running capacitor checked out correctly too. I have got it working again now! Wierdly, I put the caps back in, turned it on and it blew the fuse. Fitted a new fuse and then turned it on with the feed pipe valve removed (the unloader valve?) so that it was just running to atmosphere rather than the tank. With this out, it ran for about 3 secs and then tripped the re-settable cut-off (I assume it overspeeds with no pressure against it?). I reset it and did this a few times. Then I put the valve back in, turned it on and it worked, and still is 5 hours later. I think that one of the pressure valves might just be getting stuck intermittently and it causes it to try and pull more than 13A when it does.
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Sep 3, 2016 19:21
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Zephro posted:So I've got a 2007 Toyota Auris 2.2 diesel with what I'm pretty sure is dead alternator ("check battery" warning light and a fuel filter warning, the internet suggests that means alternator trouble, which makes sense to me). It's a fairly standard common-rail turbo diesel with electric power steering. I've driven tens of miles with no functioning alternator, although by the time I got off the freeway after 13 miles there wasn't enough power to run my turn signals. However, you've got a diesel, so you don't even have an ignition system. I don't know anything about those cars, though; maybe an electric fuel pump or something would cause the battery to not last as long. Can the first mechanic not give you a ride home in his personal vehicle? I've been offered that before.
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Sep 3, 2016 23:16
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Zephro posted:So I've got a 2007 Toyota Auris 2.2 diesel with what I'm pretty sure is dead alternator ("check battery" warning light and a fuel filter warning, the internet suggests that means alternator trouble, which makes sense to me). It's a fairly standard common-rail turbo diesel with electric power steering. My knowledge of modern diesels is very limited, but I suspect that if you turned all the ancillaries (lights, radio etc) off you should easily get 10 miles or so. Probably a lot more. I'm basing this on the fact that I have driven a petrol car with no alternator about 25 miles without issue and a diesel should be better at it due to the lack of coils/sparks. On my old landrover diesel you only need power to the fuel cut off solenoid so can go all day off a battery if you have nothing else turned on. I suspect yours has a fuel pump and probably some electrics too. I don't think that the electric power steering uses much power under normal driving (don't go doing lots of low speed steering) as my Aygo has what I assume is the same power steering system on a tiny engine and I only notice it when I'm on full lock in car parks.
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Sep 3, 2016 23:31
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Are there "inline" spade connectors? Like, male on one end, female on the other, wire crimp in the middle-ish? I want to add towing capability to my beetle, but using the beetle's own tail/brake lights is better than stupid magnetic light pods. Having connectors like what I'm imagining would let me tap into the stock wiring easily. It would also let me connect to the 12v of the tow vehicle, as you have to key on the beetle to unlock the steering, and I don't want to disconnect the battery.
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Sep 4, 2016 19:34
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Like this? They're normally called piggyback terminals or something similar.
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Sep 4, 2016 19:49
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Those work, I guess. A lot of my fuse panel is full of those already, though. I was hoping for something more linear that I could also use on a wire connection. Also I hate them, but that's me. I could make something out of a male and female connector and some wire, of course, but after discovering that spade flag connectors are available for cheap on Amazon I'm in a connector mood.
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Sep 4, 2016 19:57
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Geirskogul posted:Are there "inline" spade connectors? Like, male on one end, female on the other, wire crimp in the middle-ish? you can get them as standalone connectors too:  more on - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/203/1/stationary-blades and if you are using proper non insulated terminals you can use stuff like these:  which are also available in more ways
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Sep 5, 2016 20:22
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Nah, I know about piggyback connectors. The car's already full of them. Thanks for the information, though. I just have a bunch of inline spade connections, especially towards the front of the car. I think I'll just make some inline splices with like an extra female port in there, to add on the trailer wiring. I guess I can even color code the addons with a little key taped to the inside of the hood, for future wiring diagnostics.
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Sep 5, 2016 21:22
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Stupid question incoming: 2008 Ford Ranger FX4 It's a stick. I installed a Hurst short shifter kit, but it rattles like a bitch in 3rd and 4th. I've tried the following things:
I'm all out of ideas at this point. It's very clearly a rattle coming from the short shifter itself and traveling up the stick. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
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Sep 6, 2016 01:17
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Change the shifter bushing? Might be worn out? Sometimes the knobs rattle and just rtving them helps too.
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Sep 6, 2016 01:39
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Yea I bet anything its the plastic cup shifter bushing thats worn, itll make the shifting even tighter after its replaced too.
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Sep 6, 2016 01:42
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Is there any reason why a guy wouldn't be able to remove the pistons from a 2002 VW 2.0L motor by popping the head, removing the oil pan, removing the bearing caps, and shoving the pistons through the top?
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Sep 6, 2016 14:23
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scuz posted:Is there any reason why a guy wouldn't be able to remove the pistons from a 2002 VW 2.0L motor by popping the head, removing the oil pan, removing the bearing caps, and shoving the pistons through the top? Nope. Certainly an achievable goal. My boss used to do it with hotrods owned by cheap geezers who only wanted to replace the blown piston. I mean as long as there is enough room. As long as you don't mess with the crank bearings you Should be fine. But I'm not a vw guy so ymmv but I have done it on old Chevy motors to put better pistons in and keep the stock crank in.
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Sep 6, 2016 14:47
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scuz posted:Is there any reason why a guy wouldn't be able to remove the pistons from a 2002 VW 2.0L motor by popping the head, removing the oil pan, removing the bearing caps, and shoving the pistons through the top? Put some rubber hoses over the piston studs (if they have those, can't remember) so you don't scratch up the crank bearing journals.
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Sep 6, 2016 14:55
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SouthsideSaint posted:Nope. Certainly an achievable goal. My boss used to do it with hotrods owned by cheap geezers who only wanted to replace the blown piston. I mean as long as there is enough room. As long as you don't mess with the crank bearings you Should be fine. But I'm not a vw guy so ymmv but I have done it on old Chevy motors to put better pistons in and keep the stock crank in. 
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Sep 6, 2016 14:58
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Memento posted:Put some rubber hoses over the piston studs (if they have those, can't remember) so you don't scratch up the crank bearing journals. Most important step. Also remember you're gonna need a ring compressor to get the new piston+rings in.
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Sep 6, 2016 16:43
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