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Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


I got given a free hifonics zues 4 channel amp rated to 600 watts by a co-worker. What would happen if I hooked my phone into the line in ports on it and hooked the amp signal line from the stock headunit? Could I power speakers like that? Would it sound like dogshit?

Edit: And would I be able to use the pre-run wiring for the bose system (whats left) to avoid completely destroying the interior?

Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Jul 12, 2016

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Don Dongington
Sep 27, 2005

#ideasboom
College Slice

Elmnt80 posted:

So, after finding out the factory bose system in my 04 mazda 6 wagon is hosed without the amp and sub and the cost of replacing the missing components will make it pointless to replace them only to rip it all out later, I'm looking at just building the system now. I'm hoping to do it in stages, head unit and speakers (6 1/2 s in the front, 5 3/4 I think in the rear) first, then a amp running to a sub (2x10" or 1x12"), then a deadicated amp for the speakers and possibly upgrading the speakers .Is this a terrible way to do it? Also, if this isn't a terrible idea, what are some brands I should be looking at? I love the factory rockford fosgate system in my friends eclipse and their entry level options don't seem to be priced too terribly high. I've also heard good things about kicker and polk audio. Do I have this all wrong? :ohdear:

Edit: if it helps, my taste in music includes a bit of everything. However I mostly want some speakers with a nice mid range and some decent bass, at least until I can get a real sub wired up.

Hey not sure if you're still watching this thread, but if I were you I wouldn't bother with the head unit, as the bose unit outputs a flat 2v line level output, has available auxmods, and you'll lose too much by going for a facia kit (like the lcd for the climate control and steering controls etc)

Just get the wiring diagram for the factory amp and solder 4 RCA pre outs to the 4 wires under the seat that would have plugged into the lovely bose amp. Get an amp that's 2 ohm stable and mount it under there, and you can literally just do that for starters. By all accounts the bose amp is the weakest point for sound quality. Get one with a line out and you can run a sub.

If you want a sub woofer level control in the cab, get an active crossover with remote sublevel and get the bonus of being able to fine tune your crossover points.

Do what you want ultimately, but IMO this would be an easy and cheaper avenue :)

jonathan
Jul 3, 2005

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN
Anyone have an opinion on the Parrot android decks vs the Android Auto stuff ?

Is there a Hong Kong 1/2 price equivalent ?

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


Don Dongington posted:

Hey not sure if you're still watching this thread, but if I were you I wouldn't bother with the head unit, as the bose unit outputs a flat 2v line level output, has available auxmods, and you'll lose too much by going for a facia kit (like the lcd for the climate control and steering controls etc)

Just get the wiring diagram for the factory amp and solder 4 RCA pre outs to the 4 wires under the seat that would have plugged into the lovely bose amp. Get an amp that's 2 ohm stable and mount it under there, and you can literally just do that for starters. By all accounts the bose amp is the weakest point for sound quality. Get one with a line out and you can run a sub.

If you want a sub woofer level control in the cab, get an active crossover with remote sublevel and get the bonus of being able to fine tune your crossover points.

Do what you want ultimately, but IMO this would be an easy and cheaper avenue :)

The bose amp has 9 wires running into it from the head unit, so I'm not sure which 4 you are refering to. Also, I was under the impression that the amp did all of the actual sound processing, which means that using the headunit on its own is essentially worthless? And the metra kit is so expensive because it maintains all hvac controls along with the lcd display from what I've seen. I'd think speakers hooked up to the amp I got from a co-worker using a line in from my phone would be the quickest and easiest way to get some audio back, even of I won't get radio. I'm perfectly willing to be wrong though.

Clitch
Feb 26, 2002

I lived through
Donald Trump's presidency
and all I got was
this lousy virus
Can I ask a really boring question?

My latest DD beater is an 02 Honda Odyssey. It's been well-kept, and the original stereo sounds fine, but I'm looking for a new head unit to pair with my android phone for music and calls. My audiophile requirements are: "Yup. That's certainly a sound." I will set the EQ preset to ROCK, and forget the option exists. I can solder wires together. I can read a wiring diagram. I promise to buy the appropriate harness.

Is there a "Just buy this, and go away." option for around $100?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Clitch posted:

Can I ask a really boring question?

My latest DD beater is an 02 Honda Odyssey. It's been well-kept, and the original stereo sounds fine, but I'm looking for a new head unit to pair with my android phone for music and calls. My audiophile requirements are: "Yup. That's certainly a sound." I will set the EQ preset to ROCK, and forget the option exists. I can solder wires together. I can read a wiring diagram. I promise to buy the appropriate harness.

Is there a "Just buy this, and go away." option for around $100?
You can go to crutchfield and buy pretty much anything from a brand you've heard of before with the features you want. (Bluetooth, aux input, satelite radio). JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer, whatever looks the least terrible. Avoid boss, dual, and pyle.

bongwizzard
May 19, 2005

Then one day I meet a man,
He came to me and said,
"Hard work good and hard work fine,
but first take care of head"
Grimey Drawer
I have an 02 RAV4 and I want to upgrade the receiver from the stock one. I am looking at these two:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BV960N/Boss-BV960NV.html

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BV760B/Boss-BV760B.html

I am leery of a budget GPS, but I can use Waze via bluetooth when I need live traffic and poo poo and it would be nice to not have to fuss with my phone for short trips. My main use for the radio will be playing music/podcasts/misc via a USB stick or SD card, so I want something that makes it easy to browse files that way.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
How is carplay these days? reviews seem kind of mixed. Anyway, looking to put a carplay double din receiver in my 2012 xterra. Would love to keep it under $500. Will be keeping stock speaker placement and don't need/want DOOFDOOFDOOFDOOF so recommend away!! I would have to be really convinced I need an amp. My only real requirement is that it must have a volume knob and not volume buttons. Which is going to limit me, somewhat, I think.

Otherwise, I'm a 'set it and forget it' kind of guy, so the less fiddly the better.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland
I just jumped ship from iPhone to Android so my Alpine CDA-117 will no longer work with my phone unfortunately. It might be for the best because it was beginning to have all sorts of intermittent moments where it wouldn't recognize my phone and would keep disconnecting/reconnecting. Not sure if it has something to do with the cable or otherwise but I'm ready for a better solution now anyway.

Unfortunately it looks like Alpine more or less doesn't care about Android support so I guess my best bets are Pioneer or Kenwood.

Can someone point me in the direction of a solid Single DIN deck that will play nice with Android (primarily listening to spotify and podcasts but also some music stored on the device).

It looks like Bluetooth has gotten a lot better since I was last stereo shopping so I'd be really interested in hearing about people's experiences with Aptx or A2DP.

These are the two Kenwoods I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KDC-X599-Bluetooth-Receiver-Compatibility/dp/B00QCVWDG0
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KDC-X700-eXcelon-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01D52V4TA

My only real requirements are: don't look hideous, sound good, and accept CD's (for nostalgia kicks)
It would definitely be preferable to have USB out the back so that I could run the lead down under the center console to a phone mount or somewhere that it wouldn't have to be hanging off the deck.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

MMD3 posted:

I just jumped ship from iPhone to Android so my Alpine CDA-117 will no longer work with my phone unfortunately. It might be for the best because it was beginning to have all sorts of intermittent moments where it wouldn't recognize my phone and would keep disconnecting/reconnecting. Not sure if it has something to do with the cable or otherwise but I'm ready for a better solution now anyway.

Unfortunately it looks like Alpine more or less doesn't care about Android support so I guess my best bets are Pioneer or Kenwood.

Can someone point me in the direction of a solid Single DIN deck that will play nice with Android (primarily listening to spotify and podcasts but also some music stored on the device).

It looks like Bluetooth has gotten a lot better since I was last stereo shopping so I'd be really interested in hearing about people's experiences with Aptx or A2DP.

These are the two Kenwoods I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KDC-X599-Bluetooth-Receiver-Compatibility/dp/B00QCVWDG0
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KDC-X700-eXcelon-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01D52V4TA

My only real requirements are: don't look hideous, sound good, and accept CD's (for nostalgia kicks)
It would definitely be preferable to have USB out the back so that I could run the lead down under the center console to a phone mount or somewhere that it wouldn't have to be hanging off the deck.
I've been very happy with this:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS Mobile CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y44DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lDZZxb4X8FMCJ

My biggest concern was "sounds good", and it does. It offers a huge amount of adjustability and control over outputs and made my mishmash of speakers sound great together. It's in one car already and is going in the other shortly. Only gripe is that it has a key beep that can't be suppressed, but that's no biggie.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

Krakkles posted:

I've been very happy with this:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS Mobile CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y44DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lDZZxb4X8FMCJ

My biggest concern was "sounds good", and it does. It offers a huge amount of adjustability and control over outputs and made my mishmash of speakers sound great together. It's in one car already and is going in the other shortly. Only gripe is that it has a key beep that can't be suppressed, but that's no biggie.

This certainly looks nice but it's also like a $200 price jump over the ones I was looking at and doesnt have aptx for Bluetooth. Having a hard time seeing what benefits that would be relevant to me other than a prettier display

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

MMD3 posted:

This certainly looks nice but it's also like a $200 price jump over the ones I was looking at and doesnt have aptx for Bluetooth. Having a hard time seeing what benefits that would be relevant to me other than a prettier display
You said looks nice, sounds good, accepts CDs, and USB out the back. It does all of those. You also didn't specify a price range, so I'm not sure what you expected. You're welcome to not buy it, dude.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

Krakkles posted:

You said looks nice, sounds good, accepts CDs, and USB out the back. It does all of those. You also didn't specify a price range, so I'm not sure what you expected. You're welcome to not buy it, dude.

Sorry, wasn't trying to be a jerk, I should have specified that I'm looking for decks in the price range of those 2 I linked to, $200 or less and ideally closer to $150. I'm beyond the days where I need an "audiophile" deck because most of the music I listen to these days is streamed from Spotify. I do want good, just don't need super premium. $300 for single din still feels like flagship model range to me.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I don't think I'd spend $250 either. At one point I had a Pioneer deck with time alignment and whatnot, but since have just done fairly standard headunits with good preamp outputs and been happy. That said, I doubt there's much difference in sound between major mfgs OTHER than that kind of DSP trickery, power if you're running speakers off the amp, and preamp voltage if not.

Have you looked at JVC? I have a non-CD one that I've been happy with and it seems like they support android stuff. Here's one with USB in the back: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDR975B/JVC-Arsenal-KD-R975BTS.html?tp=5684 Can't say whether it'd be better than those kenwoods or not.

Also, pretty much all aftermarket stereos look terrible.

Don Dongington
Sep 27, 2005

#ideasboom
College Slice
I'm under the impression those Arsenal decks are now discontinued, and that JVC now brands their (inferior in comparison) head units under the Kenwood brand.

Shame.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
I just installed a new double DIN bluetooth unit in my Scion tC last night. This is way easier than I remember it being when I last did it 14 years ago.

Order trim kit, wiring harness, and pack of butt connectors online. Sit down and get crimping while watching a 15 minute youtube video of some random dude umm-ing and ahh-ing as he shows you how he disassembled the dash and where all the screws and bolts are and what sizes they are.
Put everything in in about 20 minutes, and spend another 2 minutes digging through the manual to find out how to connect your phone to the bluetooth.

Optiquest
Feb 8, 2004

My friend is installing a set of JBL p660c components in his 2008 mazdaspeed 3, he's wondering if it's safe to install the crossovers inside the door?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

So long as he's installing them between the door panel and door, and the plastic liner is intact, yeah - I've done just that several times. I wouldn't put them inside the door itself, they may foul up the windows (and will also get wet anytime it rains).

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
E: ^^ drat, haha.

Optiquest posted:

My friend is installing a set of JBL p660c components in his 2008 mazdaspeed 3, he's wondering if it's safe to install the crossovers inside the door?
It's usually not the best idea just because there's some potential for moisture to get in there. It would be better if they were at least on the inside of the vapor barrier like stuck to the back of the door panel or something if there's room. Might be better off looking behind the kick panels or under the dash.

Orido Mitsumo
Sep 14, 2016
Does anybody have any recommendations for sound deadening? I know Dynamat is a popular brand but does anybody have any other brands or suggestions?

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I just put dynamat in mine, but I constantly hear great things about Sound Deadener Showdown's products.

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Recommended 12" subwoofer for an enclosure space of 1.2 cubic feet? Max mounting depth of 7". Thanks!

Uncle Lizard
Sep 28, 2012

by Athanatos

VelociBacon posted:

Recommended 12" subwoofer for an enclosure space of 1.2 cubic feet? Max mounting depth of 7". Thanks!

When it's time for me to get new subs I want these

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM1240D/Polk-Audio-MM1240D.html

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I ended up going with a JL 12w3v3 2 ohm. Should be nice! Need a 500w mono amp now I guess.

e: went for a rockford fosgate prime series 500w class D. Should be good!

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Sep 25, 2016

rage2kk2
Aug 21, 2007
I have a Pioneer GMD-9605 5 channel amplifier and have a question about its output power. I have 4 4ohm interior speakers and a single 2ohm subwoofer. Is my subwoofer power reduced because I'm using 4ohm interior speakers or should I be getting the full 600w RMS? I'm hoping it's 4x 75w @ 4ohms and 600w x1 @ 2ohms but I'm really not sure and haven't measured.


Specifications:

Nominal Power (RMS) Output at 2 Ohms:   
100W x4 (A/B), 600W (SUB)

Nominal Power (RMS) Output at 4 Ohms:   
75W x 4 (A/B), 350W (SUB)

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:

That should net you the full 600w on the sub as it's a 5 channel amp, the other outputs to your 4 speakers will be the reduced 75w.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I'm led to believe the standard speakers in my car are 165mm coax in the front doors, 130mm coax in the back doors. Is there anything reasonable under £200 the lot I could drop into those size holes? If I had to I think I can get adapters for 165mm in the back.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Probably easiest to use the crutchfield website, plug your car in and it'll give you what fits.

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009
Can someone point me towards an accurate pinout diagram for the radio in a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado (no Bose, no OnStar)? All I can come up with on-line are diagrams for other cars and robotic sites that compile long lists of poorly described wiring diagrams. I've already got a replacement radio and a connector, just need to make sure I'm doing it right :)

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Cakefool posted:

I'm led to believe the standard speakers in my car are 165mm coax in the front doors, 130mm coax in the back doors. Is there anything reasonable under £200 the lot I could drop into those size holes? If I had to I think I can get adapters for 165mm in the back.

For what it's worth, I've been very happy with my Polk DXi series coaxials, especially for the price. Same size. They also have a component version of these well within your price range.

Focal's lower end coaxials are also (possibly) within your price range, and will probably be a bit better than the Polks.

VelociBacon posted:

Probably easiest to use the crutchfield website, plug your car in and it'll give you what fits.

Yeah uh, Crutchfield is only really useful for cars sold in North America. Cakefool is flying a :britain: flag (I think).

That said, 165mm is basically 6.5", and 130mm is between 5" and 5.25"; a lot of speakers sold in the US as 5.25 will likely fit with either adapters or with holes already in the basket.

Red_October_7000 posted:

Can someone point me towards an accurate pinout diagram for the radio in a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado (no Bose, no OnStar)? All I can come up with on-line are diagrams for other cars and robotic sites that compile long lists of poorly described wiring diagrams. I've already got a replacement radio and a connector, just need to make sure I'm doing it right :)

This looks like it might be right.
e: nevermind, I'll look for the right one

e2:
does this help?
code:
2003 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the center console.
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
e3: you should only really need that if the original harness has been cut or you're trying to adapt a stereo from another model into it, otherwise spend the :10bux: on an adapter harness.

e4: and the lack of a switched 12V feed is pretty common these days, a lot of cars send a signal over the car's data bus to tell the stereo to turn on/off. You'll probably run into losing the chimes/warning bells as well, GM is a big fan of running all of that through the stereo. Metra makes adapters to retain all of that, but you'll have to dig through their website to figure out which specific one you need. I'm pretty sure you'll need this one to keep all of that working; it'll also keep Retained Accessory Power (where the stereo stays on after you shut off the vehicle until you open a door).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Sep 27, 2016

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

some texas redneck posted:

For what it's worth, I've been very happy with my Polk DXi series coaxials, especially for the price. Same size. They also have a component version of these well within your price range.

Focal's lower end coaxials are also (possibly) within your price range, and will probably be a bit better than the Polks.

I'll check these out, thanks STR.

quote:

Yeah uh, Crutchfield is only really useful for cars sold in North America. Cakefool is flying a :britain: flag (I think).

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009

some texas redneck posted:

This looks like it might be right.
e: nevermind, I'll look for the right one

e2:
does this help?
code:
2003 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the center console.
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
e3: you should only really need that if the original harness has been cut or you're trying to adapt a stereo from another model into it, otherwise spend the :10bux: on an adapter harness.
You got it right in two! If this works it'll be impressive, and have cost a total of $12. Stay Tuned.

some texas redneck posted:

e4: and the lack of a switched 12V feed is pretty common these days, a lot of cars send a signal over the car's data bus to tell the stereo to turn on/off. You'll probably run into losing the chimes/warning bells as well, GM is a big fan of running all of that through the stereo. Metra makes adapters to retain all of that, but you'll have to dig through their website to figure out which specific one you need. I'm pretty sure you'll need this one to keep all of that working; it'll also keep Retained Accessory Power (where the stereo stays on after you shut off the vehicle until you open a door).
Hopefully this helps, thank you. I was really hoping for a connector pinning one, as opposed to wire coloring, because, unless my eyes are playing tricks on me, I have two orange wires all by themselves on one end of the plug, and every place I see Orange enumerated, it's never anything that makes sense for their to be two of.

As far as I can tell, on the no-fancy-poo poo models, the only thing of note I stand to lose is the chime. I can live without that. If I find myself leaving the keys in it all the time it's not like it's hard to make a buzzer circuit, but I'm anal as all hell about my keys because if I weren't I'd lose them constantly. Also if it does that goddamn stupid thing with the weight sensor in the passenger's seat and deciding that certainly the four bottles of soda you're bringing back to work are actually a passenger who must be bonged at in order to convince them to fasten their safety belt, the loss of the chime will be a blessing, but I haven't yet figured out if it does that.

Red_October_7000 fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Sep 27, 2016

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009
Hate to doublepost but I just wanted to say thanks again to Some Texas Redneck for that diagram, it has proved correct. Now all I need to do is find myself a switched 12V source. I thought I had one at the cigar lighter but it turns out that the cigar lighter is on all the time!

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland
So now I'm looking at a Kenwood kdc-x898 or 998 to replace my old Alpine that doesn't support my new Android phone.

The main thing i am liking about them are they are some of kenwood's only models that still have rear USB so I can run the cable down through the dash and up to my phone mount on the passenger's side of the center column.

I'll take another look at the pioneers before I pull the trigger but I definitely want to keep it under 250 for the deck if possible.

My question now is... If I want to upgrade my 6.5's in the door panel what should I be looking at with one of these decks and would it even be worth it? I'm not interested in moving up to an amp or anything more complicated in this car but if I can get better sound out of my door speakers for $150ish then I might be interested in that.

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

How are you guys securing your sub in your trunk?

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Google Butt posted:

How are you guys securing your sub in your trunk?
There's a couple different approaches.

1) Bolts through natural holes like drain plugs.
2) Drill holes for bolts.
3) L brackets holding the box to the car's standard floor covering if it's substantial enough to actually secure it.
4) Make a template of your floor out of plywood that you can bolt the box to.
5) Build a really wide/long but shallow box that touches every wall like this one.

(Ignore the messy wiring that was cleaned up a long time ago)

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland
Ended up getting a Pioneer DEH-8800BHS.

I'll have to do some configuration on it but I think I'll be pretty happy with it.

Unfortunately one of the main reasons for wanting a rear-usb deck was so I could hide the USB cable under the dash for wired listening of Spotify, etc. Having played with the deck for a bit now I'm not even sure if I can even get it to play Spotify over USB, it looks like the nifty Spotify feature is only compatible over Bluetooth which seems loving idiotic. Every time I plug my phone in and try to play from it it scrapes the only audio I have stored on it at the moment which is system demo sounds. I really really hope I can figure out how to play streaming audio over it (not only for spotify but also things like podcasts). If not I will be pretty upset as my 7+ year old alpine did that poo poo without any trouble.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I have a 4000nex and I think I can do it with CarPlay. Does your deck have CarPlay?

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

MMD3 posted:

Ended up getting a Pioneer DEH-8800BHS.

I'll have to do some configuration on it but I think I'll be pretty happy with it.

Unfortunately one of the main reasons for wanting a rear-usb deck was so I could hide the USB cable under the dash for wired listening of Spotify, etc. Having played with the deck for a bit now I'm not even sure if I can even get it to play Spotify over USB, it looks like the nifty Spotify feature is only compatible over Bluetooth which seems loving idiotic. Every time I plug my phone in and try to play from it it scrapes the only audio I have stored on it at the moment which is system demo sounds. I really really hope I can figure out how to play streaming audio over it (not only for spotify but also things like podcasts). If not I will be pretty upset as my 7+ year old alpine did that poo poo without any trouble.

Looks like there's a setting for what it does with USB connected android devices that you might want to try.

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MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

VelociBacon posted:

I have a 4000nex and I think I can do it with CarPlay. Does your deck have CarPlay?

It's an android phone, so I can't use carplay. apparently you just can't play audio over usb with android unless it's music stored in the file system. so if I want to play anything from an app like spotify, stitcher, youtube, whatever it's only possible via bluetooth. Thankfully the bluetooth sounds pretty great but I've already had one instance in the past 2 days where it just couldn't detect my phone so I had to remove the device and go through the re-pairing process all over again, I seriously hope this isn't a recurring problem.

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