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tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
Best flash of the year! A true American Beauty

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

tortilla_chip posted:

Best flash of the year! A true American Beauty


Awesome job. Route looks super sick.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Went to Vedauwoo this weekend. Off-width is hard. Led up Middle Parallel Space somehow though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Went to the Alpine today. Great Times! 2nd Apron Right Side!

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009

spwrozek posted:

Went to the Alpine today. Great Times! 2nd Apron Right Side!

Hell yeah! Sweet climb, man! I've just been bumming around Lumpy Ridge these days. Or was; I'm getting ready to descend into the never-ending work abyss for a few months. :smith:

Hopefully we will be doing Pigeon Spire for our honeymoon next year. Which is great impetus to get my poo poo together over the winter and spring.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer
Finally getting back to climbing more. Took the lead course at my gym this past week, which included babbys first clip drop and babbys first victory whip. Falling from lead is a totally different experience. Also came within inches of decking from the first clip when clip dropping, because my instructor was a smaller guy.

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009

Awkward Davies posted:

Finally getting back to climbing more. Took the lead course at my gym this past week, which included babbys first clip drop and babbys first victory whip. Falling from lead is a totally different experience. Also came within inches of decking from the first clip when clip dropping, because my instructor was a smaller guy.

It sounds like your instructor could use a lead belay clinic.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Save me jeebus posted:

It sounds like your instructor could use a lead belay clinic.

Yeah in retrospect seems like he kind of hosed up. I survived though, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004

i don't know what clip dropping is, but coming close to hitting the ground is not that unusual if you fall from the first bolt ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

edit: is clip dropping something like falling intentionally while you're clipping? because yeah if that's what the instructor was having you do, they really shouldn't be instructing

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Or, at a minimum, you should be doing it at the 4th or 5th bolt on an overhung wall where you're out of ground fall distance.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

i don't know what clip dropping is, but coming close to hitting the ground is not that unusual if you fall from the first bolt ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

edit: is clip dropping something like falling intentionally while you're clipping? because yeah if that's what the instructor was having you do, they really shouldn't be instructing

turevidar posted:

Or, at a minimum, you should be doing it at the 4th or 5th bolt on an overhung wall where you're out of ground fall distance.

Hunh, I thought it was fairly common, I mean I'd run into it around the Internet prior to taking the class. He had me drop from every clip, and then not clip into the anchor at the top and take a big fall.

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009

turevidar posted:

Or, at a minimum, you should be doing it at the 4th or 5th bolt on an overhung wall where you're out of ground fall distance.

Yeah, this.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001

Hey all. Back in the game. I haven't climbed in about 6 months because of work.

Christ I miss it.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Resonated can eat a dick.

The crux is basically a massive gently caress you if it's warm out. I'm almost through the crux move, but the description on mountain project is absolute bullshit and I can't believe I actually believed what was written there.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

gamera009 posted:

Resonated can eat a dick.

The crux is basically a massive gently caress you if it's warm out. I'm almost through the crux move, but the description on mountain project is absolute bullshit and I can't believe I actually believed what was written there.

For Reference: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/resonated/106669318

Do you need me to come yell at you so you can send?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

For Reference: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/resonated/106669318

Do you need me to come yell at you so you can send?

No. At the second crux move now. Slowly but surely.

deong
Jun 13, 2001

I'll see you in heck!

spwrozek posted:

For Reference: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/resonated/106669318

Do you need me to come yell at you so you can send?

We should all go, and set up like a japanese baseball game stadium. That'd motivate gamera...

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005
Minor slap tears are fun!

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
A little short on Dapper Dan Man

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
what do you think of hiangles?

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
I like them. Downturned, but stiff enough to be a little lazy on vert.

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...
Got my first flapper today :toot:

I cut the skin off, washed it, and have wrapped it up, but how long (roughly) till I can climb on it again? It's right on the gripping part of the palm, just below my middle finger, and at the moment any pressure on it is pretty painful.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
You can start climbing again as soon as you're not leaking creepy bodily fluids all over the holds. You might prefer to give it another day or two for the skin to thicken so it's more comfortable. In the meantime, put some lotion on a couple times a day and maybe get some ClimbOn or JTree salve.

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...
OK, thanks. I'll see how it looks next week.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
I went from 10a to 10d on outdoor lead in a single weekend of crushing, and now it's been raining for two weeks, I haven't hit the gym, and my two regular partners are touring relentlessly with a band or moving across the country.

I really hope the sun comes back, I wanted to lead 11a before the snow flies. :(

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.
Speaking of flappers, ever wonder what might happen when your feet blow while in a finger crack?

Also, do the found tips count as booty?

:nms: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/accident-report---indian-creek/112133717?sf48664390=1:nms:

WhoNeedsAName
Nov 30, 2013

Business of Ferrets posted:

Speaking of flappers, ever wonder what might happen when your feet blow while in a finger crack?

Also, do the found tips count as booty?

:nms: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/accident-report---indian-creek/112133717?sf48664390=1:nms:

:allbuttons:

Holy gently caress.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Not clicking on that. Nope.

:yikes:

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!

gamera009 posted:

Not clicking on that. Nope.

:yikes:

poo poo like this is the reason why no amount of dumb machismo is ever going to make me stop climbing like a wuss and backing off in cases where I'm not feeling pretty drat confident and failure has even a moderate chance of causing serious permanent injury. I'd like to still be climbing for many more years and not crippled or worse, if that means I have to miss out on some fun in the short term then so be it.

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?
Figured that since my school had a rock wall I might as well give it a shot. The staff got me up on the bouldering wall and holy poo poo was that fun. It really left me wondering why nobody has told me to do this before. I would never have guessed that there was a puzzle aspect to climbing. I went the past two days and ended up tearing chunks of skin off of a couple fingers. Is that something that stops happening after a while, because it seems to happen really easily and it sucks not being able to climb today.

Also, are the bouldering levels affected by the shape of the wall itself? There was a V3 path that had a pretty large overhang about three quarters of the way up and that seemed to make it a fair bit harder and more tiring than the other V3 paths, and I couldn't finish it. Should I just get used to that kind of variance? Are there ways to prevent getting exhausted while trying to get over an overhang?

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

Baronash posted:

Are there ways to prevent getting exhausted while trying to get over an overhang?

Move fast through the hardest part (the crux).

e: Edited to note that not every crux is overcome through speed, though overhangs tend to favor those who can move through smartly!

Business of Ferrets fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Sep 10, 2016

Unoriginal Name
Aug 1, 2006

by sebmojo

Baronash posted:

Figured that since my school had a rock wall I might as well give it a shot. The staff got me up on the bouldering wall and holy poo poo was that fun. It really left me wondering why nobody has told me to do this before. I would never have guessed that there was a puzzle aspect to climbing. I went the past two days and ended up tearing chunks of skin off of a couple fingers. Is that something that stops happening after a while, because it seems to happen really easily and it sucks not being able to climb today.

Also, are the bouldering levels affected by the shape of the wall itself? There was a V3 path that had a pretty large overhang about three quarters of the way up and that seemed to make it a fair bit harder and more tiring than the other V3 paths, and I couldn't finish it. Should I just get used to that kind of variance? Are there ways to prevent getting exhausted while trying to get over an overhang?

Keeping your feet on reduces the amount of weight on your arms while overhung. To keep your feet, you require A) good footwork and B) core strength to keep your fat rear end from pulling those feet off.

Basically good technique distributes the load across several points while overhung. It's still more exhausting than vert in my experience.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum

Baronash posted:

I would never have guessed that there was a puzzle aspect to climbing.

The puzzle is what got me, and i'm sure many others, addicted. It's as much a mental game as it is physical.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Rime posted:

The puzzle is what got me, and i'm sure many others, addicted. It's as much a mental game as it is physical.

Wait, it wasn't the super hot fit ladies that crush harder than you?

I thought this was all about impressing the coeds at the gym/crag????

:iiam:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
Nah brah, it's all about those sick high / low angle shots that make you look like Honnold:

TheDon01
Mar 8, 2009


Hey folks, just starting to get into Rock-gym climbing. I climbed a little bit back in high school about 15 years or so ago and my wife has no previous climbing experience. We were looking for a new (regular) gym and a friend mentioned that the local rock gym has all the bar/dumbbells we were needed that sat unused in a corner and the monthly rates were cheaper than our gym. Well, we've gone every few days for the past 3 weeks now and we still haven't touched those dusty barbells in the corner. We're both at a point where we want to start getting our own gear, mainly shoes.

Are there any good websites for men's and women's newbie shoes, that has any sort of trial or size exchange thing?


Thought I'd share this too. A chalk bag I sewed up for her birthday next week. She had this cool galaxy jacket she loved but it got ruined, I dug it out of the trash and hid it away. I used heavy nylon from an old duffel bag and lined it with the fleece lining from her jacket.


Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

TheDon01 posted:

Hey folks, just starting to get into Rock-gym climbing. I climbed a little bit back in high school about 15 years or so ago and my wife has no previous climbing experience. We were looking for a new (regular) gym and a friend mentioned that the local rock gym has all the bar/dumbbells we were needed that sat unused in a corner and the monthly rates were cheaper than our gym. Well, we've gone every few days for the past 3 weeks now and we still haven't touched those dusty barbells in the corner. We're both at a point where we want to start getting our own gear, mainly shoes.

Are there any good websites for men's and women's newbie shoes, that has any sort of trial or size exchange thing?


Thought I'd share this too. A chalk bag I sewed up for her birthday next week. She had this cool galaxy jacket she loved but it got ruined, I dug it out of the trash and hid it away. I used heavy nylon from an old duffel bag and lined it with the fleece lining from her jacket.




Nice bag! There's a ton of articles out there about newbie shoes. I've never heard of any sort of trial thing. It doesn't really matter that much, as long as you don't buy them too too small (though they should be tight).

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)


For shoes, just go to REI or something similar and try on everything in your price range. I started out with the La Sportiva Tarantulace but pretty quickly returned them and got Mythos instead, which I found much more comfortable. It's hard to tell what really works until you climb in them a few times. If you have a membership at REI you can return any shoes no questions asked for up to a year (I think it's that long, at least).

Oops I meant Mythos lolz

Mons Hubris fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Sep 20, 2016

Rime
Nov 2, 2011

by Games Forum
As newbies you'll almost certainly drag holes in your toe rand, so go the traditional newbie route and buy some dirt-cheap Tarantulas. They're decent and won't start hindering you till you hit the mid-11's, will force you to focus on technique by virtue of being bland when it comes to performance, and by the time they wear out you'll have a better idea of what type of climbing you enjoy and thus what type of shoe you'll enjoy.

Then you'll buy a pair of Mythos or something and instantly jump up a grade and a half. :haw:

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stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007
I love my scarpa origin shoes. They are quite cheap, comfortable and good quality. I have a pair of more aggressive shoes for tough overhung routes, but the origins get the most gym use by far.

Hey team, how should I train my pinch strength? I've got two problems where I'm stumped by a long reach off of a left handed pinch and poor feet... My hands just off the hold.

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