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neckbeard posted:
Hard to tell due to the resolution but it kinda looks like some of those studs have rust on the surface, ie the break happened a long time ago. Maintain your poo poo, guys.
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Sep 22, 2016 16:37
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neckbeard posted:
Lemme guess...the Those studs weren't long for this world.
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Sep 22, 2016 16:47
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xzzy posted:If you ever want to lose an afternoon and accomplish nothing, try reading reviews on tirerack. I think the service they provide is pretty neat, but loving hell using them to actually select a tire? Just shoot yourself in the head. i'd only look at the numerical scores and weigh them based on the number of reported miles
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Sep 22, 2016 17:44
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http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/ Always seems to be pretty accurate. I always check over several tyres in my price range, especially the 'would buy again' score, and then just buy the same Hankook Ventus Evos that I've put on every car I've owned since 2012.
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Sep 22, 2016 19:21
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nm posted:As an added note, one year we had a cold snap early and turning on RE-01Rs when it is 20F outside is something I don't recommend to anyone. Drifting while turning left through an intersection at otherwise reasonable speeds was interesting. I had a late April ice storm catch me the week after putting my RE-01Rs back on a few years back. A customer one town up had an emergency and I was the only tech available. One of two times I've been legitimately terrified while driving in winter weather. I worked from home the next day and was ready to put my Blizzaks back on if the next day wasn't going to go back to spring weather. xzzy posted:If you ever want to lose an afternoon and accomplish nothing, try reading reviews on tirerack. I think the service they provide is pretty neat, but loving hell using them to actually select a tire? Just shoot yourself in the head. It's the same problem as consumer reviews on a lot of other products, the majority of people don't have the knowledge or experience to review them properly. Not very many people outside of auto journalists and racing drivers do. To the average person a cheap tire that doesn't need to be replaced for a long time is a good tire. Even to an enthusiast the closest to a direct comparison between similar tires we'll usually ever get is comparing a worn out example of $old_tire to a brand new $new_tire when we replace a set. Otherwise most only get to compare winter tires to summer tires, or road tires to specialty tires (track, off-road, etc). Having the opportunity to run two or more sets of competing tires in comparable conditions on comparable vehicles one after the other is rare if it's not your job.
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Sep 22, 2016 19:22
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bull3964 posted:I only really needed snow tires for about 3 days last winter in Pittsburgh. The rest of the winter, I would have been safer on all seasons. I did most of my commuting last winter in Pittsburgh on my VFR on Angel GTs without issue
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Sep 22, 2016 19:56
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neckbeard posted:
Someone hosed that poor WJ up bad. At least it wasn't what I assumed it would be at first, a missing axle nut because the CV shaft failed and was deleted causing the unit bearing to separate. Idiot with an impact gun putting on wheels?
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Sep 22, 2016 20:30
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I have a customer at work who told me straight out that he uses his air impact to install lug nuts at full bapbapbap. Every time he comes in to swap his tires for the season, we end up replacing at least a couple lugs, and have found stripped and broken studs as well. I put a note on all his work orders now that "Customer uses impact gun for lug install, do not comp broken nuts or studs". He thinks a torque wrench takes too long, or he's too lazy. Eventually he's going to lose a wheel at speed, and I'll be glad for a dozen signed work orders stating what the reason is.
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Sep 22, 2016 20:49
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I'll admit I use a four-way and just crank em down till they are tight, but I recheck after a short drive and only a few have ever even been slightly below torque, aside from one time when I left a bunch of icy mud on the mounting face by accident. Never stripped a lug or stud or broken anything, either. Impacting them on without torque sticks is just stupid.
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Sep 22, 2016 21:00
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There's nothing wrong with using the rattle gun to get the lugs seated, then torque with an actual torque wrench, right? The problem lies in under/over torquing the lugs by just using an impact?
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Sep 22, 2016 22:17
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Usually overtorquing the gently caress out of them, yes. If it's lug centric (almost all cars are, other than some euro imports I believe, anything that has conical lug seats is lug centric) it's usually better to tighten in a star pattern by hand, working up from barely tightened to full torque.
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Sep 22, 2016 22:21
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um excuse me posted:There's nothing wrong with using the rattle gun to get the lugs seated, then torque with an actual torque wrench, right? The problem lies in under/over torquing the lugs by just using an impact? Trouble is that without a torque limiter, your 'seating' may have significantly overtorqued the nut/stud; 'bap' takes your torque to (say) 100, book says 85, your torque wrench doesn't reduce holding torque when it clicks. Possibly more of an issue with other, smaller things that underskilled mechanics need to work on - I had a head die because a mechanic had rattlegunned the rocker assembly down which pulled the bearings for the OHC out of true.
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Sep 22, 2016 22:32
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IPCRESS posted:Trouble is that without a torque limiter, your 'seating' may have significantly overtorqued the nut/stud; 'bap' takes your torque to (say) 100, book says 85, your torque wrench doesn't reduce holding torque when it clicks. Possibly more of an issue with other, smaller things that underskilled mechanics need to work on - I had a head die because a mechanic had rattlegunned the rocker assembly down which pulled the bearings for the OHC out of true. Jesus Christ  If I'm using an impact on my lugs, I'll start them all by hand and then run the gun for a second and let it coast down to where it makes contact. I usually don't even get a bap out of it but it saves a little time spinning nuts down. My dad always drilled it into my head to finish lug nuts with a torque wrench and that's how it shall always be.
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Sep 22, 2016 22:50
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Jesus guys, if you don't want to wait, there is such a thing as a speed handle. They're great, get one.
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Sep 22, 2016 22:58
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Saga posted:Isn't it the 75 where you drive with your arms straight out and feet strangely offset to one side? Now we know why; it's to avoid shrapnel. Yes - the 75 is an ergonomic disaster. The steering wheel is always too far and the pedals too close. The steering wheel always blocks a portion of the speedo and tach. The rear compartment power window switches are right behind where the front passengers elbows land on the center console. The front compartment rear window switches are on the overhead console. The front window switches are directly below them on the lower console. The u-shaped parking brake looks cool, bites fingers and knuckles. Etc.
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Sep 22, 2016 23:15
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I have always spent the extra time putting lug nuts on by hand and using a torque wrench. Also torque wheels before the full weight is on the ground. gently caress, now I'm reminded of the the time it took me like an hour just do get a drat GTR on the lift and get the wheels off thanks to being really low with side skirts and the drat lug nut holes were so small and I had to carefully unthread each lug to not scratch them.
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Sep 22, 2016 23:17
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drat, I've never even bothered to check what the torque specs on my wheels are, I just tighten as far as I can with a 4way in a X pattern while on stands, then again on the ground. If I'm extra paranoid about something, like after brake or suspension work, I'll go around the block and then tighten a third time, but I'm fairly certain that I'm not strong enough to strip the gently caress out of the lugs by had, even with the added leverage from a 4way wrench
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Sep 23, 2016 01:06
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I just spin lugs on with a normal cordless drill set to the lowest torque setting, that usually makes them finger tight quickly. Then I use the torque wrench.
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Sep 23, 2016 01:10
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jamal posted:...lug nut holes were so small and I had to carefully unthread each lug to not scratch them. Might not work on the GTR, but my friend uses masking tape on his sockets and drill to prevent this on his viper To my friends credit, he also used electrical tape... I just misremembered Vvvvvvvvv namlosh fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 01:22
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I find electrical tape to be better, you can stretch it as you put it around the socket and it's pretty durable.
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Sep 23, 2016 01:39
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bull3964 posted:I just spin lugs on with a normal cordless drill set to the lowest torque setting, that usually makes them finger tight quickly. This. I have a little 18v Makita with a 1/4" chuck. On the high setting, it puts ~75ft.lbs into the lug nuts. I then go around and torque them to 80 with a wrench. I love that little thing. The low setting puts ~15ft.lbs into any fastener I want, which makes small part assembly a breeze.
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Sep 23, 2016 02:33
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bull3964 posted:I find electrical tape to be better, you can stretch it as you put it around the socket and it's pretty durable. We have a set of these or something similar. They seem cheap but none have broken yet.
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Sep 23, 2016 02:37
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Lowest setting on my impact can bapbapbap forever and the torque wrench still turns the lugs to hit 85 ftlbs. Best of both worlds.
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Sep 23, 2016 02:38
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DethMarine21 posted:We have a set of these or something similar. They seem cheap but none have broken yet. I actually have those, but with the plastic sleeve on it they are too think for one of my wheel sets, so I took off the sleeve and used tape.
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Sep 23, 2016 02:42
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Are torque sticks not accurate enough for lug nuts, or what?
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Sep 23, 2016 03:04
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They are if you use them properly. Few people do.
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Sep 23, 2016 03:27
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Fifty Three posted:Are torque sticks not accurate enough for lug nuts, or what? I think the problem is that a lot of places don't use them and just go ballistic.
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Sep 23, 2016 03:27
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As someone who hangs out with a bunch of bootleg/rookie mechanics, a good torque wrench is also a hundred bucks or so for a tool you only whip out for special occasions and has to be treated carefully or else it goes out of spec. I can't completely blame someone for just using an impact to tighten poo poo down. The using it till it BRAPBRAPBRAPBRAPS for 10 seconds is something that should be shamed out of someone though.
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Sep 23, 2016 07:15
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I once used a cheater bar, a measuring tape, a calculator, and a known weight to torque my lug nuts to spec. I don’t know if it’s better than an out‐of‐calibration torque wrench, but it’s better than guessing. It’s a little tedious for a full set of wheels, granted.
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Sep 23, 2016 07:29
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Am I the only one that just uses an 18" breaker and tightens it so it feels really snug?
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Sep 23, 2016 07:38
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I got my torgue wrench for ~ 30 € and it's great quality + has all the local certs, so it's a cheap as gently caress tool you use at least every time you change wheels and should be used .
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Sep 23, 2016 07:46
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Christ on a crutch, I've been changing and rotating tires on my personal fleet for twenty freaking years with the 'tighten down with a four way by foot roughly as hard as it was to break loose with your foot in the first place' method and I have never had a wheel come off, a stud or lug nut break, anything.
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Sep 23, 2016 08:11
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Platystemon posted:I once used a cheater bar, a measuring tape, a calculator, and a known weight to torque my lug nuts to spec. If this discussion carries on, it's only a matter of time before it devolves into a ritualistic summoning and a German automaker decides that what the world really needs are torque-to-yield lug bolts.
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Sep 23, 2016 09:03
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You shut your whore mouth!
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Sep 23, 2016 09:45
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I predict single-use lug bolts that shear off when tightened to spec torque, and the part that's left reveals an inverted 5-sided torx (looking somewhat like a pentagram) that can be used to maybe sometimes get the bolts off when you need to remove the wheel. Each car manufacturer will have slightly different ones, with their own exotic sockets. They will be similar enough though that you can just get the wrong socket on and ruin the bolt.
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Sep 23, 2016 10:14
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Imagine having to carry an adapter for fuel nozzles.
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Sep 23, 2016 10:45
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Sudo Echo posted:Imagine having to carry an adapter for fuel nozzles. Ummm, my car has a diesel nozzle adapter for the larger fast flow pump nozzles
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Sep 23, 2016 10:55
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Sudo Echo posted:Imagine having to carry an adapter for fuel nozzles.  I wish they would prevent diesels from getting the wrong fuel tho. I know that a few solutions exist, but it's tiem for every car to have it.
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Sep 23, 2016 10:58
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ionn posted:I predict single-use lug bolts that shear off when tightened to spec torque, and the part that's left reveals an inverted 5-sided torx (looking somewhat like a pentagram) that can be used to maybe sometimes get the bolts off when you need to remove the wheel. Each car manufacturer will have slightly different ones, with their own exotic sockets. They will be similar enough though that you can just get the wrong socket on and ruin the bolt. Someone at BMW is reading this and touching themselves...
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Sep 23, 2016 13:26
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Platystemon posted:I once used a cheater bar, a measuring tape, a calculator, and a known weight to torque my lug nuts to spec. That's how I did the rear axle nuts on my VW. I weighed myself, did the math for where on the cheater pipe I had to apply my weight, and stood on the bar at that spot. 
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Sep 23, 2016 13:49
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