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dupersaurus posted:Stupid newbie incoming Were you using one of those cans with a single gauge on it, or an actual dual-gauge manifold set? We have an A/C thread that might be helpful to your plight.
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Oct 1, 2016 23:52
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How do I buy a specific type of paint? I don't need to match existing panels or anything, but I want to buy some Volvo Rebel Blue paint and I don't know what to do with the paint code. Can any local store just mix it up with the code on the url? Also this isn't for a car, rather a bicycle frame but I thought this would be the best place to ask.
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Oct 2, 2016 05:45
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Oreilly's can probably mix the paint in a pint/quart. See if they can based off of a car year model and make. If not move to a local car repair shop.
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Oct 2, 2016 05:51
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Christobevii3 posted:Oreilly's can probably mix the paint in a pint/quart. See if they can based off of a car year model and make. If not move to a local car repair shop. Unless you live in florida where state law prohibits us from mixing paint, along with autozone and advanced auto. Some paint places like finishmasters and some sherman williams can also mix automotive paint. Just remember that prep is massively important to getting a good paint job.
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Oct 2, 2016 10:04
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Raluek posted:Were you using one of those cans with a single gauge on it, or an actual dual-gauge manifold set? We have an A/C thread that might be helpful to your plight. Single gauge. But I'll ask over there, thanks
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Oct 2, 2016 14:23
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Raluek posted:That's an attractive offer. We're still trying to convince the ebay seller that he sent the wrong thing, but once we get that sorted out I'll contact you. Thanks dude.
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Oct 2, 2016 18:04
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Unless you live in florida where state law prohibits us from mixing paint, along with autozone and advanced auto. Some paint places like finishmasters and some sherman williams can also mix automotive paint. Just remember that prep is massively important to getting a good paint job. Thanks both of you, and no not Florida, Canada. But I'm sure there is a O'Reilly's equivalent.
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Oct 2, 2016 19:01
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I have a 2003 Mazda Protege, LX trim, about 110k miles on it. A few years back, the heat started blowing cool air, but only some of the time. As time passed, more and more often it would blow cold air rather than hot air - essentially if the heat was ever working, it would work several times in a row when using my car, but then at some point would stop working again. This problem got worse and worse as time passed - at first it was only occasional, then eventually more often than not I wouldn't have heat. Throughout all this, the car was not overheating, and the Air Conditioning works perfectly fine. In fact there is a marked difference when I push the AC button rather than just run the car at the lowest temperature gauge, so there doesn't appear to be an issue there. I have had the radiator checked. I have had the temperature gauges/controls replaced. These two things were done when I paid some shop through the nose to fix the heat. It worked, sort of, for week and then stopped, just like it always had. Now the heat never blows hot air at all and has not for about a year and a half. There are few weird electrical problems with my car (power doors only make 1 of the doors unlock while the others just make a weird buzzing sound - the other doors went out, one by one, over the course of a year or so - and plugging in my Progressive Snapshot device does not turn it on) so I have no idea if those things are related. Everything else works mostly fine for an older car with a heap of miles on it. I live in Lansing, Michigan so having to tarp and retire my car for the entirety of winter is just brutal. Thanks for any suggestions!
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Oct 2, 2016 21:44
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I Love You! posted:I have a 2003 Mazda Protege, LX trim, about 110k miles on it. A few years back, the heat started blowing cool air, but only some of the time. As time passed, more and more often it would blow cold air rather than hot air - essentially if the heat was ever working, it would work several times in a row when using my car, but then at some point would stop working again. This problem got worse and worse as time passed - at first it was only occasional, then eventually more often than not I wouldn't have heat. Throughout all this, the car was not overheating, and the Air Conditioning works perfectly fine. In fact there is a marked difference when I push the AC button rather than just run the car at the lowest temperature gauge, so there doesn't appear to be an issue there. If the heater core is not kaput, it may be as simple as the blend doors, and you might even be able to see/reach the cables/doors from the footwells. You might need a flashlight and/or mirror.
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Oct 2, 2016 22:32
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The cotter pin holding the linkage together popped off it would seem. I need to go get a new one, but no major damage to anything and the clutch works fine still.
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Oct 2, 2016 22:50
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If the heater core is not kaput, it may be as simple as the blend doors, and you might even be able to see/reach the cables/doors from the footwells. You might need a flashlight and/or mirror. I'll give it a go. The engine for this model is insanely tight-packed into the hood so it's miserable trying to get to/see anything, especially for a neophyte like me who doesn't always know what he's looking for. Even mechanics groan when I pop my hood, so I hope i can get there through the footwells.
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Oct 2, 2016 23:04
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If the heater core is not kaput, it may be as simple as the blend doors, and you might even be able to see/reach the cables/doors from the footwells. You might need a flashlight and/or mirror. Yeah, that's what I was going to suggest. Either a blockage in your heater core, or the blend door not moving when it should and staying on cold all the time. I don't think those have a valve in the heater hose to turn on/off the flow to the heater core, do they? Maybe someone who is more familiar with Mazdas will come along. I Love You! posted:I'll give it a go. The engine for this model is insanely tight-packed into the hood so it's miserable trying to get to/see anything, especially for a neophyte like me who doesn't always know what he's looking for. Even mechanics groan when I pop my hood, so I hope i can get there through the footwells. The heater core and blend door stuff is on the cabin side of the firewall, under your dash. The only parts that are in the engine bay are the hoses that go from the engine to the heater core through the firewall.
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Oct 2, 2016 23:06
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If the heater core is not kaput, it may be as simple as the blend doors, and you might even be able to see/reach the cables/doors from the footwells. You might need a flashlight and/or mirror. Correction: After peeling away some paneling and removing my radio I can get to the cables from the passenger side footwells, see and feel the mechanisms for the heater controls, etc. However I can't see or access the shutter doors from the footwells, or really work with anything down there, there's just no room to get to them. Might be SOL, I'm not sure there's any way for me to get access to the poo poo that needs tweaking without access to a shop. I Love You! fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 23:21
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General question for the thread: why do some cars with running lights on have the light on one side turn off when the indicator is on for that side?
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Oct 3, 2016 01:13
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Memento posted:General question for the thread: why do some cars with running lights on have the light on one side turn off when the indicator is on for that side? Visibility more than anything. Some DRLs are so drat bright that it's difficult to see the indicator. I Love You! posted:I have a 2003 Mazda Protege, LX trim, about 110k miles on it. A few years back, the heat started blowing cool air, but only some of the time. As time passed, more and more often it would blow cold air rather than hot air - essentially if the heat was ever working, it would work several times in a row when using my car, but then at some point would stop working again. I'm assuming this has been checked, but.... the engine is warming up, correct? If the engine isn't heating up to operating temp, you'll have no heat.
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Oct 3, 2016 01:30
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Visibility more than anything. Some DRLs are so drat bright that it's difficult to see the indicator. That makes sense, it seems to be the cars with the gently caress-off bright LED running lights. My father-in-law has them on his Grand Cherokee and I've always wondered about it.
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Oct 3, 2016 01:33
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Just stopping in to say thanks, various experts in this thread, not for anything specific you did, but for helping encourage me to see cars as something that I can plausibly fix (certain) things about myself rather than paying people to do everything. In particular, I replaced my engine air filter today. Took $20 and two minutes; didn't even require any tools! How long have I been paying the Jiffy Lube guys to do that for me? 
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Oct 3, 2016 01:37
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Memento posted:That makes sense, it seems to be the cars with the gently caress-off bright LED running lights. My father-in-law has them on his Grand Cherokee and I've always wondered about it. Chrysler was very early to the DRL wink game, they've been doing it since the.. early to mid 00s, if I remember right? Even on stuff that just used the headlights as DRLs. TooMuchAbstraction posted:In particular, I replaced my engine air filter today. Took $20 and two minutes; didn't even require any tools! How long have I been paying the Jiffy Lube guys to do that for me?  says half the time they didn't replace it, and/or they told you to replace it far more often than necessary.  (congrats - it feels good when you realize you can tackle a lot of basic maintenance, doesn't it?)
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Oct 3, 2016 01:40
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scuz posted:It's 44.5" long if that'll fit! Yep, that's the number we were looking for. The one from ebay is 48 inches long, which was not even close to fitting in. She got a refund from the ebay guy last night, so why don't you email me at my AIM address (in my profile) at gmail and we'll figure out what you want for yours. Thanks, dude!
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Oct 3, 2016 01:41
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
I saw so much of this poo poo when I was working at Mazda Australia. Air filters especially; cars would come in to get warranty work done, you'd look at the detailed service history and then realise that the air filter on a 75,000km car was the one it came with from factory. edit: I was wondering for a second, I thought I was replying to STR here. I only noticed the name change because your av isn't quoted.
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Oct 3, 2016 01:47
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I'm... not a fan of the new name, but it's what I get for posting in the "free new username!" thread in GBS. Yeah.. I recently (this year, anyway) changed the cabin air filter on my mother's car. It's a 2003 Toyota. Supposedly it was changed 2 or 3 times a year by the dealer before I talked her into not going to the dealer for crap (about 3 years ago).  There's no way in hell that filter was 3 years old. It's not even difficult to get to, it's behind the glove box. Me, on the other hand... I'm the terrible owner. I didn't realize I'd gone nearly nearly 60k miles (so almost 100k km) without changing the (engine) air filter on my car.  WHOOPS. The cabin air filter in my car was pretty clean in comparison (they were both changed at the same time).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Oct 3, 2016 |
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Oct 3, 2016 01:52
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I actually think the Jiffy Lube guys probably weren't ripping me off (beyond charging me $50 or whatever it was to do a filter replacement, that is). I say this because they'd always pop out the filter and show it to me when I got the oil changed, and I could definitely see the differences from one oil change to the next. Still, $20 and two minutes of my time is a lot better than paying them for the convenience.
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Oct 3, 2016 01:58
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Visibility more than anything. Some DRLs are so drat bright that it's difficult to see the indicator. Yeah, engine is at normal operating temp, car runs fine. After fiddling with the cables the best I could through the footwell, and pushing it as far to the "hot" direction as possible, the heater is now putting our air I would describe as "lukewarm". So that's at least a small change.
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Oct 3, 2016 02:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I actually think the Jiffy Lube guys probably weren't ripping me off (beyond charging me $50 or whatever it was to do a filter replacement, that is). I say this because they'd always pop out the filter and show it to me when I got the oil changed, and I could definitely see the differences from one oil change to the next. They might just keep the same dirty filter under the counter and show it to every single customer!
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Oct 3, 2016 02:26
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0toShifty posted:They might just keep the same dirty filter under the counter and show it to every single customer! I know that does happen at some places, but fortunately it didn't happen where I worked (not jiffyscrewed.) Some guys would be a bit unscrupulous about getting fluid samples dirty when trying to sell a diff, tcase, or trans fluid change... I refused to do that poo poo, I have a conscience and even if I didn't, we didn't get paid on commission so gently caress the company if they want us to push poo poo hard. Our AC recharge service basically printed money during the summer, though. At the time it was $150 or so and usually involved 8 bucks of R134a, 30min of tech time, and the service machine. And when it's 90 degrees and 90% humidity out, it's a super easy sale to make. We would do a callback recharge for free (8 bucks in materials, why not) if someone had a leak in their system and only found out when their recharge lasted a week or two.
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Oct 3, 2016 02:37
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Memento posted:General question for the thread: why do some cars with running lights on have the light on one side turn off when the indicator is on for that side? Comedy reason: Everyone trying to fit in with chevy blowing a single daytime running light all the time so only one works.
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Oct 3, 2016 02:39
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kastein posted:Some guys would be a bit unscrupulous about getting fluid samples dirty when trying to sell a diff, tcase, or trans fluid change... I refused to do that poo poo, I have a conscience and even if I didn't, we didn't get paid on commission so gently caress the company if they want us to push poo poo hard. One visit I had to one such place stands out. "Sean with the Honda Accord!" bellowed out. I stood up. Tech was holding a really dirty air filter and a transmission dipstick that was absolutely disgusting, and was trying to sell me a new air filter and a transmission fluid flush. I told him the filter was just replaced. He tried to argue that whoever replaced it for me ripped me off. "I replaced it myself last week, and that's not even the same shape as mine.  ""Well.. you really need to flush your transmission fluid! Look how filthy it is!" I asked him to show me where in the engine bay he found that dipstick. Something about "can't take customers into the work area". So I dropped "We both know drat well my car doesn't have a transmission dipstick. Mine has a manual transmission, which on a Honda, means no dipstick, and definitely means no ATF". Mumbled something about mixing up the cars...
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Oct 3, 2016 02:57
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So I have a 2014 Outback with possible oil consumption issues. Car is at the dealership to check for leaks right now. If there's no leaks they'll start a consumption test. If it's found to be burning oil, they'll replace the whole shortblock. Will that affect resale value down the line? It's a known issue and there's a few TSBs for oil consumption if that means anything.
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Oct 4, 2016 00:59
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion, 2.0l 4-cylinder (If I remember right). It's cost about 5k in the past 5 years to keep my car up and running. It's developed a new transmission problem that might cost $500 to $1,750 to fix on top of the $150 to $250 in fees to figure out what the problem is. At this point I'm inclined on giving up on the car. What should I do now? Can it even be traded in? Sold for parts? I'd go with donate to charity if I didn't need cash for a down-payment on a replacement car.
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Oct 4, 2016 01:07
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The car: 2003 Mercury Marauder with a Ford 8.8 rear and 1/2 12 point bolts holding the driveshaft in. Are those bolts actually metric? I started typing this post and that thought seeped in...but onto the question: Is there some trick to getting the these 12 pt. bolts out without rounding them off? I take a 1/2 inch wrench to the bolt, it doesn't turn the bolt, it just rounds off the edges. Only tried with a wrench twice before stopping so I don't completely destroy the bolt. I mummified the whole flange in Blaster and wait a day. Next day, I take a Kobalt 1/2 inch electric impact I use to pull lug nuts off no problem; same thing, it rounds off the points instead of turning the bolt. Bear in mind, I used the impact for a split second when I noticed the socket was turning, and removed it to inspect the bolt, which didn't turn. Mummified the flange in blaster again. It's gotten both the black lubricant can of Blaster and the white penetrant can of blaster at this point. There's still the same amount of point left on these bolts from before I started but I better get advice before I do ruin something. Any ideas how to break this cycle? Can it be done without oxyacetelene?
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Oct 4, 2016 01:17
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RandomPauI posted:I have a 2004 Saturn Ion, 2.0l 4-cylinder (If I remember right). It's cost about 5k in the past 5 years to keep my car up and running. It's developed a new transmission problem that might cost $500 to $1,750 to fix on top of the $150 to $250 in fees to figure out what the problem is. A new car is going to certainly cost more than any close future repairs, barring a major engine or transmission explosion. Do you like the car (other than the repairs)? Do you care that much about cars or driving? Because a new car will cost more, and be a bigger liability in a wreck, even factoring in repairs. If the Saturn is paid off, I'd recommend keeping it and repairing it unless you want something else. People come into this thread all of the time with very similar stories, trying to logically justify a new car. Unless the model of car is a known 100% lemon, when you say things like "$X put into repairs over <short period of time>," it actually makes more logical sense in most cases to keep the older car, because you know what's been replaced, and it should be full of fairly new parts. "Devil you know vs one you don't," etc. New cars are more money spent, no doubt about it, no way around it. Don't look for logic on this one, like it sounds. The only thing that can drive you to a new car is want, not logic, in this case. That's not a terrible thing -- I mean, this isn't called Automotive Sanity. And new cars are cool. But there's no real logical reason to "give up" on a car, unless it's totaled or the cost of repair is absolutely more than the purchase price of another car. This is why people who get cars solely based on economics jump between old car to old car, with the frequency of them junking one and getting another depending almost solely on their mechanical knowledge and willingness to spend time on it. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Oct 4, 2016 |
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Oct 4, 2016 01:30
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RandomPauI posted:I have a 2004 Saturn Ion, 2.0l 4-cylinder (If I remember right). It's cost about 5k in the past 5 years to keep my car up and running. It's developed a new transmission problem that might cost $500 to $1,750 to fix on top of the $150 to $250 in fees to figure out what the problem is. I mean it is an Ion... In all seriousness, same advice as always applies. If you replace it you have two options: 1. Buy a new car, with all the car payment nonsense that goes with it. 2. Buy a used car, which is likely to have its own laundry list of mechanical issues, the repair of which will offset the savings; even if you go out of your way to find a reputable seller, it's still a crapshoot. Or, you stick with the evil you know and fix the Saturn. My opinion is: you shouldn't change cars unless absolutely necessary if a $1,500 repair makes you balk. Right now this car is costing you about $1k a year to maintain, how long will it take you to amortize the cost of a replacement down to that level?
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Oct 4, 2016 01:34
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Marauder Stig posted:The car: 2003 Mercury Marauder with a Ford 8.8 rear and 1/2 12 point bolts holding the driveshaft in. Good old boys on mercurymarauder.net say it's a 12mm bolt and to buy a 12mm 12 point socket rather that risk ruining the driveshaft. Those bolts apparently have a healthy glob of factory loctite, hence your difficulty. You got a long breaker bar/pipe?
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Oct 4, 2016 01:35
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Marauder Stig posted:The car: 2003 Mercury Marauder with a Ford 8.8 rear and 1/2 12 point bolts holding the driveshaft in. Yeah those are 12mm. And if the socket is not completely flush with the bolt it will just round off. Also you using a 1/2 size wrench helped strip because 1/2 will somewhat grip a 12mm sized bolt. Defenitley get a 12 point 12mm and use the electric impact with a swivel socket so you can allow the socket a better chance to grip the head.
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Oct 4, 2016 03:46
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RandomPauI posted:I have a 2004 Saturn Ion, 2.0l 4-cylinder (If I remember right). It's cost about 5k in the past 5 years to keep my car up and running. It's developed a new transmission problem that might cost $500 to $1,750 to fix on top of the $150 to $250 in fees to figure out what the problem is. What's the transmission problem? You do not have the 2.0, unless it's the supercharged version. Which only has a manual transmission, only comes in a coupe, has a different body kit (different bumpers and side skirts), different wheels, and is marketed as the Ion Red Line. You almost definitely have the 2.2. If you somehow do have the 2.0 Redline, then you'll need to find a transmission from a 2.0 Cobalt SS or Ion Redline if it needs another transmission (the one they put behind the 2.2 won't hold up to the extra ~50 hp for very long). First, is it automatic? Second, is it sedan or coupe? The 03-04 coupe automatic is a massive dumpster fire, and you should absolutely get rid of the car if it's an 03-04 coupe automatic. It's GM's first modern foray into CVTs, and it was a miserable failure (you're lucky to make it past 75k). If it's an 03-04 sedan automatic, it's an Aisin-Warner 5 speed automatic that's known to be reliable, so long as you use the correct fluid in it. That said, a common complaint on them is shift flare - if that's the issue, call your local Chevy dealer and ask them if they can update the transmission control module. You CAN swap the sedan's automatic into the coupe, but it requires a new engine computer, transmission computer, and part of the wiring harness - it's a lot more trouble than it's worth. If it's a manual transmission, go get a junkyard transmission from a later model Cavalier, Cobalt, Grand Am, or any of the other cars that offered a manual with the 2.2 and 2.4 Ecotec. For what it's worth, I have an 06 Ion myself that's in great shape, but a $1700 repair would probably have me getting rid of it. And what the hell is running $1k a year to keep it running? I've spent less than $1k over 4 years/nearly 100k miles on mine, including oil changes. Sitting at 153k now.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Oct 4, 2016 |
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Oct 4, 2016 04:12
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So I have an 07 2500 lbz era Duramax and I'm blowing smoke when I get on it half way hard. Fuel filter is brand new and maintenance is up to far. So for a 10 year old truck would ai suggest waste gate or something else?
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Oct 4, 2016 05:07
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mariooncrack posted:So I have a 2014 Outback with possible oil consumption issues. Car is at the dealership to check for leaks right now. If there's no leaks they'll start a consumption test. If it's found to be burning oil, they'll replace the whole shortblock. Can't speak to your specific model or issue but generally having a TSB done is considered a good thing when trying to sell the car - means the potential buyer doesn't have to deal with it. If you're just going to trade it in down the line it likely won't make a lick of difference though.
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Oct 4, 2016 06:22
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clam ache posted:Yeah those are 12mm. And if the socket is not completely flush with the bolt it will just round off. Also you using a 1/2 size wrench helped strip because 1/2 will somewhat grip a 12mm sized bolt. Defenitley get a 12 point 12mm and use the electric impact with a swivel socket so you can allow the socket a better chance to grip the head. Yup, 12mm. 12mm and 12.7mm are far enough apart that your 12.7mm socket is rounding it. Put a propane blowtorch on the flange where the other end of the bolt sticks out of it for like 10-20 seconds to soften the loctite and give yourself a better chance. I have always had better luck using box wrenches on those than sockets because of the diameter of the driveshaft and how close in it is but it's up to you. Buy new bolts for the ones you rounded, they shouldn't be more than a few bucks a pop at your friendly local FoMoCo dealer. I usually get them out with just a regular 12mm 12pt box wrench, maybe that plus another one stacked onto the back for extra leverage, with no heat, TBH. I only recommend heat at this point because it sounds like the heads are probably partially damaged and you need all the luck you can get because if you have to cut the head off you're in for a world of hurt getting the stub out. I wouldn't use O/A on it because it's simply too hot, if you aren't really really good and careful you're going to smoke the pinion seal with it, either by heating the flange up too much or by having some of the heat blow in the seal's direction. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Oct 4, 2016 |
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Oct 4, 2016 19:06
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2005 Honda Civic. 60k miles. Check engine light came on. Autozone said it's code P0134. A faulty 02 upstream sensor (or sensor 1). Recommended a $150 part from Bosch. Called my slimy dealership where I got the car (for shits and giggles). Guy said "oh, yeah...that's expensive (sounded like the boss from Office Space). It's gonna be $400 for the part and another $100 for labor, totaling $500. I said I'd call him back. Called a local mechanic Autozone recommend. Said it's $300 total. $200 for the part and $100 for the part markup and labor. Also said I could buy the part myself and have him install it if I wanted to go the cheaper route. Gave me two codes for the part. Bosch=15473 Denso=2349017 Looking at their websites and Amazon, the parts are $90-$100 shipped. Looking at tutorials, it's less than 1 hour of labor and very easy to do it yourself. Should I? My only experience is replacing a battery. Should I take it somewhere? If so, where? If not, what tools would I need to replace it myself and any recommended guides? Anything else I should know about all this? Thanks.
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Oct 4, 2016 20:27
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rizuhbull posted:2005 Honda Civic. 60k miles. It shouldn't be too hard to replace your upstream O2 sensor assuming you can reach it and it isn't rusted to crap. Things will be easier with a socket wrench and a set of O2 sensor sockets, available for rent at AutoZone.
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Oct 4, 2016 20:34
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