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I had a 1999 V6 Solara that broke a valve keeper causing the valve to collide with the piston while in motion. During the rebuild process the wrong head gasket was put on for that bank of cylinders causing oil starvation and seizing the cam to the head. A replacement (rebuilt junkyard) head was sourced from a minivan and installed with the proper head gasket. That car ran just like the day I bought it after that whole incident. 1MZ-FEs were prone to oil sludge from owner neglect, so watch for that.
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Oct 18, 2016 20:51
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And yet, this is the same company responsible for the 1UZ starter. But completely agreed. Everytime I have to work on the CR-V (which is pretty much just basic maintenance items) it is a goddamn joy to do. Loads of room, nothing stupid cock-blocking you. You can change the transmission fluid in minutes with a 3/8 ratchet, a stubby Phillips screwdriver, and a funnel. Could probably swap a Fumoto in place of the drain plug and eliminate one of those tools.
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Oct 18, 2016 20:52
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Hansolio posted:During the rebuild process the wrong head gasket was put on for that bank of cylinders causing oil starvation and seizing the cam to the head. Many people will tell you that it's impossible to weld steel to aluminum, but anyone who's run an OHC alloy engine out of oil knows that's bullshit and it just takes determination.
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Oct 18, 2016 21:10
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Oil looks really good, nice honey color. If I have to do the valve cover gasket, I'll look for any sludge. Starter contactors were really worn down, hopefully that truly was the problem. Plunger has a lot of pitting on it, but I'll reuse it and hope it lasts for a bit.
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Oct 18, 2016 22:00
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:God drat, I love cars that are easy to work on. Since the last post in this thread, about 20 minutes ago, I looked at a youtube video to see where the starter bolts were, got my tools, took out the battery, and then pulled the starter. What's that all over the battery terminal? That could cause a lot of problems.
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Oct 18, 2016 23:35
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CharlesM posted:What's that all over the battery terminal? That could cause a lot of problems. It's a brand new battery and he slathered it with some kind of crap. I have no idea what it is, but it's coming off and getting a nice coating of dielectric before it gets put back together. I don't think that caused anything, because everything powered up fine and the starter solenoid makes a good strong "click." It's just those contactors were worn down too much. At least that's my hope. Then again, after I got the starter cleaned, I saw that it was already a reman and the cover for the contactors, held on with three screws and holding in a spring-loaded plunger... had two of the screws barely finger-tight and the third wrenched down hard. Hopefully proper torque distribution on reassembly helps, too.
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Oct 18, 2016 23:40
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OK, just always good to cover the simple stuff first. Sounds like an Autozone starter. They last...a while :P
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Oct 18, 2016 23:41
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Those cars are tanks, but I wouldn't call them easy to work on. Having to pull the goddamned upper intake to do much of anything is a pain in the rear end. Not specific to that car of course, it's just the way that engine is designed. Good luck on the oil leaks.  I gave up on that fight years ago on mom's 03 Avalon. I think you might be able to pull the front valve cover without pulling the upper intake, but the rear valve cover is an absolute oval office to get to.
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Oct 19, 2016 00:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Those cars are tanks, but I wouldn't call them easy to work on. Having to pull the goddamned upper intake to do much of anything is a pain in the rear end. Not specific to that car of course, it's just the way that engine is designed. And see, I am used to the packaging of a transverse Toyota V6 from my wife's old RAV4. It was packed so tightly in there, there was simply no room to work. Yeah, I see the upper intake needs to come off for any of the firewall-side stuff, but man, at least I can get my sausage fingers in there. I just pulled the JBL sub. Foam surround was perished long ago. Got a new surround coming, hopefully it makes good music. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Oct 19, 2016 |
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Oct 19, 2016 00:36
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Foam surround completely removed from subwoofer. That always makes such a mess. Work will continue today on the interior as I wait for the starter parts to show up. As I said, the interior is disgustipating. I ran an AutoCheck report on it today, looks like it was in an accident in 2008, which makes sense, since the hood is replaced and the serial number sticker on the LF fender is sprayed over. Doesn't look like much damage, from what I can see right now. Either way, it was 8 years ago, so whatever should have been sorted should be sorted by now. Edit: Swing and a miss. Starter parts showed up. Went in no problem, but no change in action -- click goes the starter, but no turn-y. I bench tested it after I took it out the second time (yeah, should have done that first...), the gear projects, but doesn't turn. Looks like a dead starter. New one coming tomorrow. To be continued... meatpimp fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Oct 19, 2016 |
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Oct 19, 2016 15:50
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Damned FedEx guy showed up with the starter just as I was finishing up cooking my noodles.  Had the car running before my noodles were cold. 
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Oct 20, 2016 21:03
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Seminal Flu posted:I just pulled the JBL sub. Foam surround was perished long ago. Got a new surround coming, hopefully it makes good music. It's.... okay. Nothing special to be honest. CD changer still working?
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Oct 21, 2016 01:16
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Seminal Flu posted:Work will continue today on the interior as I wait for the starter parts to show up. As I said, the interior is disgustipating. Documentation, please.
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Oct 21, 2016 14:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It's.... okay. Nothing special to be honest. I'm not looking for much, it's an 8" free air sub with factory amp... it'll fill in the bottom a bit. I've got a big amp and isobaric 12" box if I ever get around to setting the boom up again. Changer seems to be working, I've only loaded/unloaded 1 disc so far. Dagen H posted:Documentation, please. I suck at before pictures. I get all wrapped up in mowing through a project and don't document. Highlights: The driver's seat cushion/leather were not secured, had to pull the seat and properly secure the material. Doing that showed an unreal amount of :puke: under and around. But again, poo poo wipes off. Lowlights: I was doing some glue-based pdr and there was a big dent on the front door, about fist-sized. I made one good pull. On the second pull, I ended up pulling a half-dollar sized chunk of paint and bondo off, leaving a bare scuffed metal spot. I was able to glue most of the paint back, but will need some serious touch-up when I get the paint.
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Oct 21, 2016 17:27
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Seminal Flu posted:I was able to glue most of the paint back, but will need some serious touch-up when I get the paint. We need pics of this poo poo.
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Oct 21, 2016 19:53
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Yeah don't bother with the free air sub, ain't worth it. I just got a powered JL 10" to put in the LS430 to put in the trunk, if you're going that route go ahead and remove the old free air sub completely so you have a place for a trunk sub to come through. Also where did you pick up the glue PDR stuff? Does Harbor freight happen to sell it? I gotta pull some dents out of the Miata.
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Oct 21, 2016 20:04
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Larrymer posted:We need pics of this poo poo. "Soon" Applebees Appetizer posted:Yeah don't bother with the free air sub, ain't worth it. I just got a powered JL 10" to put in the LS430 to put in the trunk, if you're going that route go ahead and remove the old free air sub completely so you have a place for a trunk sub to come through. I'm just refoaming the stock sub, it'll do fine once it's back in there. The original foam was completely disintegrated, so the cone was just banging around. Motion feels fine, though, so it should work well once it gets a modern foam. I got the glue PDR stuff from aliexpress. I had a "professional" try to take out a big dent in the tailgate of the Envoy, but he was a hack and all he used was glue. But by watching him, I saw that glue could be useful for some things. One thing to know with glue -- it's SUPER easy to make high points, so make sure you have a good set of knockdowns. Something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PDR...23-12d1795cb541 With these sticks: https://www.amazon.com/Paintless-Dent-Repair-PDR-Glue/dp/B003PLR1QW Isopropyl alcohol releases the glue.
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Oct 21, 2016 21:10
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Alright, since I'm waiting for the sun to come up so I can try to clear my kitchen sink drain through the roof vent, I'll update this motherfucker. I hit the paint pretty hard this weekend. It was rough, it's a bit less rough now. A lot of dents, all over. I don't think there's much original paint left on it, front, rear and driver's side has been painted. So, I'm not going to end up with a show car in any way. However, this turd is polishing up nicely. Started with this as representative. Lots of scratches, some superficial, some a bit deeper, some down to primer.   The aftermarket clearcoat is extremely hard. Ultimate compound and highest speed on the PC didn't do it. I dropped down to Meguiars 105 Ultra Cut Compound and ended up here:  Going back to UC, then a layer of Jet Coat, here's where it is now:  The headlights cleaned up nicely with nothing more than a quick UC buff as I was doing the body panels. As I was doing that, I was doing some preliminary dent pulling with a glue puller. Unfortunately, one of the dents I grabbed was a section of bondo that pulled off, leaving me with a big hole in the paint. I was able to glue the paint back on (lol) and I've got touch-up coming. The dent will always be there, but it'll touch up fine:  Another fun thing is the steering. When I got it, it was like turning a huge servo motor -- 20* of free turning, then it'd stick for 5*, all the way around. I first thought something with the power steering system, but I did some google work before digging in and found that Toyota had a big problem with the joints it used in the steering column. A quick dousing of the joint just past the firewall with some TriFlow lubricant I use on bike chains and... bam, as smooth as it should be. Next up is the brakes. There's a serious warpage problem with the front rotors, so I got a set of pads and rotors, just waiting on the chance to get them put on. When I do that, I'll investigate a clunk from the front end. I'd say it's a 50/50 chance that it's end links. Including title, registration and tax, including the new starter, including new front brakes, I'm into this thing for $1080. Cheap cars are best cars.
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Oct 25, 2016 11:57
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That won't last. Plan on replacing those joints, at least on Subarus and Jeeps, by the time they get sticky and are seizing up like that, all the needle bearings inside have turned to a congealed mass of rust, and between 5 and 1000 days later, it magically uncongeals and falls out, resulting in an incredible amount of play in the wheel and even occasional seizure when the shaft happens to flop around and get stuck in a funny way as it turns. I've driven dodgy vehicles, but I actually stopped driving my comanche when that happened to it and bought a replacement shaft with good joints.
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Oct 25, 2016 15:28
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kastein posted:That won't last. Plan on replacing those joints, at least on Subarus and Jeeps, by the time they get sticky and are seizing up like that, all the needle bearings inside have turned to a congealed mass of rust, and between 5 and 1000 days later, it magically uncongeals and falls out, resulting in an incredible amount of play in the wheel and even occasional seizure when the shaft happens to flop around and get stuck in a funny way as it turns. I've driven dodgy vehicles, but I actually stopped driving my comanche when that happened to it and bought a replacement shaft with good joints. As long as it's closer to the 1000 days, I'm good.  From forum searching, keeping that joint lubed is a permanent fix... we'll see...
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Oct 25, 2016 15:34
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Yeah same thing happened with my '02 Crown Vic. Super sloppy steering and weird vibrations coming through to the steering wheel, spraying the joint with lube helped for a bit, but once I finally replaced two of the shafts/joints the steering felt incredible and I regretted not doing it sooner. If the joints are cheap and easy to replace just do it, will make a huge difference. If it's costly and a pain don't bother though.
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Oct 25, 2016 15:36
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I gotta do it on my Subaru but the STI rag joint is like 200 stupid dollars.
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Oct 25, 2016 16:31
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I never said buy new, hell with that. Go to the junkyard and pillage an almost new one from a car that someone just had it replaced on - costs $20 whether it's new or just about to fail. 
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Oct 25, 2016 16:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I gotta do it on my Subaru but the STI rag joint is like 200 stupid dollars. Jesus  kastein posted:I never said buy new, hell with that. Go to the junkyard and pillage an almost new one from a car that someone just had it replaced on - costs $20 whether it's new or just about to fail. I imagine that happens a lot up north because poo poo rusts and you gotta replace it, but down here that's a rare occurrence. People just drive the cars until it costs more to fix than the car is worth and junk them, and every part on the car is worn to poo poo.
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Oct 25, 2016 16:44
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Seminal Flu posted:
My parents '05 Sienna does this. They just stop by the local oil change shop, hand the guy a can of spray lube and that takes care of the issue for about a year or so.
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Oct 25, 2016 20:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I gotta do it on my Subaru but the STI rag joint is like 200 stupid dollars. I need to know more about this. The steering on my GE impreza wagon is a loving catastrophe.
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Oct 26, 2016 11:09
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BloodBag posted:I need to know more about this. The steering on my GE impreza wagon is a loving catastrophe. I don't know what it will be on a vehicle that new but on my GG wagon I can drop in a steering rag joint from a GD STI. I think but don't quote me that you can drop in a solid rag joint from a 2015 WRX/STI into an 08-134WRX, so maybe you might be able to do it on an 08-12 Impreza like yours? e: looks like it quote:Other LGT forum members pointed out that the new 2014 -2015 OEM STI universal steering joint is a solid joint, no rubber, and it swaps perfectly for the older WRX and LGT universal. Same spline count, same length. Don't turn the steering wheel when the joint is out or you'll break the ribbon cable on the clockspring. I'm dreading trying to recentre my wheel for that exact reason. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19464-STI-Steering-Universal-Joint-Perrin-stiffener-and-Quick-Steering-Column
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Oct 26, 2016 14:52
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https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-77938-Steering/dp/B000SIAOUA Probably could make a similar tool out of some all-thread and assorted hardware from Lowes.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:25
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Terrible Robot posted:https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-77938-Steering/dp/B000SIAOUA That's what a seatbelt is for. I find it hard to believe you've never seen a tow truck driver at work before.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:33
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Remember that the subaru ones only have a master spline/slot on one end (I think it's the end toward the rack, but not sure...) or this wouldn't be a problem. Just make sure the wheels are centered, only remove the bolt for the end that's got a master spline/slot, make sure the key is out and the steering lock is engaged, unbolt the whole column and drop it, slide it out of the car, scribe a mark on the shaft where the slot in the ragjoint collar lines up, then line the new one up with that and put it back together. It was easy when I did it on my forester.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That's what a seatbelt is for. I find it hard to believe you've never seen a tow truck driver at work before. As hard as I find it to believe myself, I've only had to call a tow truck twice ever for my poo poo.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:57
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No tow trucks here, so far. Car is running, I degreased the engine today to try to find the source of the oil leak(s?). Definite leaking from the front valve cover. I snugged up the bolts a bit to see if that changes anything. Grabbed the driver's sway bar end link and could feel it clunking just by manipulating it with my hand. I think that's the banging I'm hearing up front. I've got another one of those ordered. The JBL stereo in this thing is actually pretty damned good. Not much bass, even with a refoamed subwoofer, but it's brilliantly clear and sharp. The Bluetooth cassette adapter sounds great, but doesn't work... every minute or so the tape deck auto-reverses, making the audio drop out for about 3-4 seconds. That's sad, I was hoping that BT adapter would be the solution. Brakes on the front tomorrow. I'll probably pull the end link while I'm there so the replacement won't take more than a few minutes when the part shows up.
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Oct 27, 2016 16:11
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The rubber band inside the cassette player is broken, which causes it to think it's at the end of the tape, so it reverses. At least, that was the failure mode on the cassette players I've dealt with.
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Oct 27, 2016 16:17
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Lightbulb Out posted:The rubber band inside the cassette player is broken, which causes it to think it's at the end of the tape, so it reverses. At least, that was the failure mode on the cassette players I've dealt with. I don't think so, it's playing my old tape of The Chronic just fine. Edit: Definitely leaking like a goddamned sieve coming from the back of the front valve cover. New gasket set here on Saturday. Hopefully that takes care of it. Edit 2: Productive morning. Tires rotated. Oil changed. Transmission fluid changed. Front pads and rotors changed. Found the primary suspect in the braking fuckery -- Outside pads were fine on both sides. Inside pads were more worn. On the passenger side, one of the slides was fully frozen in place. It took 15 minutes of wrenching to even get it out. Sanded, re-greased and it's sliding properly now. If I end up keeping it, I'll replace that side's caliper bracket somewhere down the road. Drives great now. Steering is smooth, braking is smooth. Once I replace the driver's end link tomorrow, I'll evaluate the rest of the front suspension. I think the passenger side end link is hosed, too. I'll probably replace sway bar bushings as well. All told, I'll be into it less than $1250. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 16:19
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I think I found why oil was pouring out of the front valve cover: New gasket, no leaking... at least from there. I am going to have to clean the motor and transmission a couple times to get the residual oil off of absolutely everything to see if there are other leaks, but I think this is at least the main one. Driver's side end link fixed the main suspension clunk. I can notice a bit from the passenger side end link, and there's some slop in the suspension in general, but if you weren't looking critically, you'd say it drives perfectly fine. Another car that uses a knock sensor for ignition timing... and another car where the PO used nothing but poo poo gas. I'm starting to feel the timing come back running 93. For a beater, this thing could be alright. This thing is also starting to live up to my "beater" moniker, which had previously been used on my '89 Mazda MX6-GT. I bought that car with a crushed fender, hood and bumper from where the PO crashed it while drunk driving. She sold the car to pay for her fines. The PO of this Avalon had just signed it over to his fiance a few months back. He said it was for insurance reasons since he had too many points on his license. gently caress. A quick look up of him in Ohio and Indiana show multiple FELONY DUIs, along with multiple driving under suspension, etc... he also has outstanding fines from his latest DUI (that got pleaded down to a Reckless Operation, probably because they didn't see the multiple felonies in Indiana... yay our court system.  )So, let's hope this is as good as the Mazda was... because that car took abuse like nothing else... and liked it.
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Oct 30, 2016 16:43
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Wow, Toyota was still doing the slave cam stuff that late in the game?
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Oct 30, 2016 23:36
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Well now you know why it is covered in dents and scratches, at least.
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Oct 31, 2016 01:09
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kastein posted:Well now you know why it is covered in dents and scratches, at least. No doubt. That's what pissed me off most about the guy -- he blamed them on his wife pulling into the garage. Then again, his record does not speak well of one that takes any kind of personal responsibility. Seat Safety Switch posted:Wow, Toyota was still doing the slave cam stuff that late in the game? It's an old engine design, first used in mid-90s Camrys. VVTi was added somewhere around this model. They used it all over... ES300, Solara, Camry, RX300, Avalon, Sienna, and on and on... meatpimp fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 01:17
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Mom's 03 has the same cam setup, pretty sure they used that through the entire run of the 1MZ-FE? VVTi was added at various years depending on the car model. I believe the Lexus models got it in 99, Avalon in 99 or 00. Camry didn't get it until 2003 or so, I think. What's funny is the Lexus models were advertised as requiring 91 octane, while the Toyota models were advertised as requiring 87. It's the same engine, ECU, tune, etc.
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Oct 31, 2016 02:58
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:What's funny is the Lexus models were advertised as requiring 91 octane, while the Toyota models were advertised as requiring 87. It's the same engine, ECU, tune, etc. Toyota asking 91 octane for a "normal people car" would mean basically no sales. It is ridiculous how many people get infuriated over having to pay $1 more per fillup. For a Lexus, at least owners 1 through 4 would pony up for it. Owners 5 through the apocalypse won't.
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Oct 31, 2016 04:53
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