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cursedshitbox posted:anyway. radio caught fire, tossed it. bought a bluetooth stereo amp off ebay for $lol. looks good! - I've got to do this too as the 'radio' in my landy is just a long aux cable plugged directly into an amp which is in the back. I'd like to add refinements like bluetooth and a volume control. How does the volume control work on yours? edit - found some by searching for 'amplifier board'. They start at around £6  Now to work out if I can use 2 to power 4 speakers or how to leave my current amp in the system.
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Sep 17, 2016 |
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Sep 17, 2016 08:16
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the little chrome switch on the climate control head operates volume. (in the older trucks the fuel tank selector was there, it just has a blanking plug in its spot) The one I had is sold out. Less powerful version: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-TDA...+amplifier+100w Go deaf version I considered: https://www.amazon.com/TSA8498-Clas...+amplifier+100w E: who wants some idi love? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5766022924.html cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 17:40
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 minor victories! 4 beru, 3 chinesium, 1 autolite. none broken, distorted, or put up a fight of any kind. why? because I purchased proper tools just incase.
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Sep 21, 2016 23:58
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cursedshitbox posted:
I started putting O2 antisieze on my glow plugs on the TDI. Seems to be helping.
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Sep 22, 2016 12:31
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cursedshitbox posted:laptop I bought ehhh 3 weeks ago took an awesome poo poo after a small drop, it'll be parted and fund some gofast poo poo for the truck methinks. I have a lead on a $600 turbo setup. What's the laptop?
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Sep 22, 2016 14:39
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CommieGIR posted:I started putting O2 antisieze on my glow plugs on the TDI. Seems to be helping. I couldnt find my tube, sorry future me! (its at the shop, an hour away). but still. they all came out without a fight, holy poo poo. Shampoo posted:What's the laptop? g751jy-dh72x.
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Sep 22, 2016 14:44
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cursedshitbox posted:I couldnt find my tube, sorry future me! (its at the shop, an hour away). but still. they all came out without a fight, holy poo poo. Looks like that RAM is compatible with my MBP. Let me know how much you'd want for it 
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Sep 22, 2016 16:21
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I'll let ya know when it comes time. Now that the glowplugs are up to snuff, the old maxi fuse I put in back in march isn't big enough, and well frankly, neither is the "12ga" factory alternator wire. Time to correct ALL this poo poo. and while I'm in here, might as well move some cables.  Messy alternator harness removed. Extra black plug on alternator side is for the tachometer.  Reduced wiring wrapped and ready to go back in. I wanted to use my felt loom wrap, but its at the shop, and I'm not so *shrug*.  went to reconfigure the power wires, and got ford'd. Mind you on the oilburners this is pretty much just a starter relay. the starter has its own solenoid.  winch/block heater wiring relocated. it originally ran through the middle of the grill. its mounted in a way that it should not chafe from vibration.  new solenoid, new alternator output going to the alt instead of the solenoid, glow plugs refused with a larger 150A fuse (need to replace this with a 160 or 170 even), and it also moved to the battery terminal. This truck is supposed to have a 160A Leece-Neville, buuut it looks like the pully is on a standard fat-case ford 1G 100A alt... It'll be getting a proper one someday... perhaps one like the bus. E: further reading tells me they didnt start putting Leece-Nevilles in till late 91', and they use navistar bracketry. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Sep 24, 2016 |
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Sep 24, 2016 01:19
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I miss my old bricknose Ford and I'm glad this one is getting some love.
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Sep 24, 2016 01:37
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Reminds me that I've got a bricknose alternator to slam into a Town Car pretty soon.
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Sep 24, 2016 01:41
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  hngggg non floppy door panels. Truck doesnt squeak, shake, or rattle now. its so weird. I own a ford that doesnt: PAS whine Rattle Squeak Rust. The gently caress did I do? also the new GPs, fuel system, batteries, wiring mods, and steering stuff seriously makes this old turd feel like a brand new truck. which is good, because I'm backburnering it till next year. Donkey will probably get a radiator before we move, but that'll most likely be it.
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Sep 27, 2016 19:28
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You've cursed it. You have to leave some problems undone on an old Ford or something horrible will happen. Lo, beyond the horizon: a dark clarion heralds our doom.
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Sep 27, 2016 19:33
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Shoulda kept my drat mouth shut. When warm the truck would randomly drop a phase on the alternator resulting in the usual symptoms of oscillating lights and voltage gauge. Via snapchat some goons got to see the awesome voltage swing of an unhappy alternator. Who knows how long it was doing this, it became apparent with the recent wiring upgrades.   Cases split. This thing is a motorcrap original reman'd by autozone in 2012.  Diode packs look almost identical, the new one is american diodes on a copper channel, wheras the autozone ones are whitebox diodes on aluminum channel.  My awesomely crummy soldering. its back in and working well. maybe it'll last.
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Oct 3, 2016 06:04
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What the gently caress, motorcraft puts the rectifiers inside? ND likes to hang them on the outside under a sheetmetal shield, I assume for ease of service or to improve airflow. I can do exactly what you did without even taking the alt out of a jeep if I have to, but it's miserable. Either way, the case doesn't need to be split to replace the rectifiers on them, which is nice because the cases are seized solid up here.
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Oct 3, 2016 20:38
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This is relevant to my need to understand why the 3G in my 88 Town Car trips the charge light constantly despite being a recent Champion rebuilt. I mean I'm guessing dry rot in the harness, but I'd be willing to also entertain the concept that there is some abstract horrible failure tilted against me by the universe.
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Oct 3, 2016 22:58
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Yup. Internally rectified, externally regulated. lasted this way from the 60s-1991. 2G alt looks the same, internally regulated. supposedly only good for setting your poo poo on fire. 3G is the goto for modern internal fan/reg/rec. There is a leese-neville version on some ambos that are externally rectified too. all this poo poo depends on the upfitter, day of week, how many beers left, etc.
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Oct 4, 2016 00:33
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cursedshitbox posted:
Continuing with awful old diesel things: Two awful fixes on these engines. One is the above. The other is the oil cooler. guesssss whaaat. Its always had a little taste for coolant, and thats ok, its a diesel and they slobber everything everywhere. buuut its puddling on the front X member. I can't see poo poo because of how everything is piled right there, so in with one of these $10 buttprobe cameras.  Oil cooler face, Facing frame rail:  Top of oil cooler:    Seems the cooler >> block paper gasket is slowly taking a dump. Gonna do O rings, fluids, etc, while I'm in there. PARRRRTAYYYY BTW: Charging system is rock loving solid. 5ma current draw measured with key off/engine off. 100mv drop from batt one to batt two during cranking. minimal drop through grounds. 14.4V idling, no accessories, 14.1 idle, everything on.
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Nov 1, 2016 22:06
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Well now you got me wanting to go look at my oil cooler, but it's dark and I'm scared (of what I'll find.) Just did both batteries and all cables on mine, agree that having a solid electrical system kicks rear end. e: OK. It's ugly but not leaking. The ends are only very slightly flaky. I just stuck my derpy cheap camera in there and then looked at the pics, but your buttscope is neat and I kinda want one. digger_smolkin fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Nov 2, 2016 |
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Nov 2, 2016 01:08
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$10bux on ebay.  welp. oil cooler, engine oil, and transmission oil changed. good, bad, and the ugly. You ever go into a project with the worst hopes, and have the outcome manage to blow expectations? yeah that was today.  ALL THE FLUIDS.  Inner fender removed  rad/shroud out  steering sector shaft removed  dirty steeds, done poo poo the bed.  Rad out  I can't put into words how big and unwieldy this fucker is. its well over 100lb. not pictured: JB welding the small leak it had.   Nowwwwww you can see the demons. its not really obviously but obviously loving cracked. I missed that at the time.      these fuckers were getting ready to poo poo anyway. Also if you've never worked on a diesel, they have a serious fetish for making everything loving filthy.  Ready for seals and assembly But you need a press! ...I don't have one. but I do have a 7 thousand pound truck, and a bottle jack!  (pressed one side on at a time, using cutlets of 2x4 as dampers).(no forcey forcey, let it slide in slowly, use lots of lube)  core support cracking at the bottom.  AHAHAHAHAHAHA.  I only noticed this *after* pressing it together and doing a final cleaning. Otherwise I woulda spent the rest of the day at the junkyard prying one out of another old pos.  JB welded inside and out. letting it sit over night. I got no pics of the reassembly, because well fuckit, who cares you've seen the engine bay assembled a million times. Onto my big fat tranny.  Tower off! PO stripped the poo poo out of the plug, and I'm not even gonna bother right now. Plus I don't have a hand pump with me.  draining.  Green? Motor oil? oh god. ohfuck ohfuckohfuckohfuck   oh awesome. looks like I'm ordering a zf5 syncro kit after we move. THANKS PO! regular motor oil, gear oil, p much anything but non detergent 30wt or atf will destroy the syncros in this box.  Sloth is the motherfucking mother of invention. Tomorrow comes coolant refill, and this weekend both differentials.
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Nov 4, 2016 02:25
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Diesels are always filthy. Always. You can scrub it clean, put new seals all the way around, and locktite everything. It will leak. Somewhere. Somehow. And it will be black oil as soon as you've changed it.
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Nov 4, 2016 02:45
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At least you've gone with black gloves to start with, somewhat hides how filthy everything is.
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Nov 4, 2016 21:42
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Nov 5, 2016 01:13
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Just Ford things.
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Nov 5, 2016 01:40
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clam ache posted:Just Ford things. Ah, but you see, Ford makes it; International shakes it. Is it the cooler that's leaking still or just the rear endcap-to-block seal?
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Nov 5, 2016 01:55
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cooler to block. gently caress fel blow. gently caress doorman. gently caress anybody that thinks a shittily designed aluminum gasket is better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-t66sPA8z8  Flat rate'd it this time. 2 hours start to finish, including inspection, swearing, more swearing, more swearing, and did I mention, swearing?!  Only the finest ultra black. gently caress you bitch, leak now. (it'll leak)  My fix from yesterday. no leaks here! I'll start it tomorrow. if it still leaks, proper paper gaskets will be here monday. oreilly gave me the right gasket by PN, open the box up, its for a7.3 PSD. SWEEEEEET, Stocking stuffers for AISS.
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Nov 5, 2016 02:51
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Cast aluminum cracking is the worst loving thing. At least it was a stupid cooler elbow not a bellhousing. Wonder how long that trans had the wrong fluid in it... it shifts alrightish, right? Maybe you caught it in time.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:49
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at least 4,000 miles. cold it'll shift alrightish going up. it won't synchro going down. warm its alrightish period. Its not a bother to me, but happy wife happy life. the permatex fix seems to be holding just fine too. sooo I washed it to make sure.  Never realized the speckles were just aged grime. old farm truck things.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:53
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CommieGIR posted:And it will be black oil as soon as you've changed it. I should pull the dipstick on my cruiser with its 7500km old oil in it for a photo. The better halfs 1.8L tiida had darker oil at the same age.
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Nov 5, 2016 23:01
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Really gotta buy a truck, and it really has to be a diesel.
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Nov 5, 2016 23:04
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CommieGIR posted:Really gotta buy a truck, and it really has to be a diesel. as long as its not a 6.2/6.5 we're good. black oil chat? yeah the oil change had ~2mi on it and is already black as coal.
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Nov 5, 2016 23:07
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Why did you try to anger the Ford by washing it?
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Nov 6, 2016 05:55
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I hope it's not too much of a derail to ask a couple IDI questions in this thread. I have a friend with a '91 E350 short bus, 7.3 zf5. So pretty similar to yours, but like a ton lighter and RWD. It's been getting pretty miserable fuel economy and yet it seems pretty slow to me. I think he can barely crack like 73mph in 5th. Slowness seems reasonable I guess since it's a 25 year old NA diesel, but I was surprised about the fuel economy. What kind of numbers do you get? Since power is also lacking, I was thinking about maybe sanity checking the timing. Is there a hobbyist way to check timing on the IDI? You mentioned you adjusted yours by a single degree, so I guess you have a way. Obviously there are no spark plug wires to clamp a timing light onto; I'm a little out of my element here, although I've read about how to adjust the injection pump. Obviously I'm not going to go turning screws without being able to measure timing and EGT, though. Oh yeah, and what was that about a $600 turbo setup? 
Raluek fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 12:17
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Ask away! get it all tuned/running well THEN turbo it.  I adjusted it by ear. right now its 2 maybe 3 deg advanced where it was at time of purchase. Fueling is approx 1.5 flats less than whatever it was when i got it. . Fuel economy was dogshit when I got it, fuelling was way up, smoked all the time, got 11ish. Right now its 15s for mpg. I've had it to 85... I ain' doing that again. nope nope nope. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2005-Diesel-Purge/dp/B00CPL8OVE/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MJ54380BQQ3RW65ZMW6G Run a few bottles of this through it. One per month is what I do. Timing! Luminosity: you can get an old snap on reader, pull the #1 Gp, (3 on vans) and drop that in there. it wont time the same as a ferret type pickup that claps on the fuel line. keep an eye out for a J-33300-A tach n time on ebay. whatever you do, don't gently caress with the timing while its running. the pump is responsible for keeping the timing gear in place. make a mark with a chisel, be gentle! 3 bolts hold it in. go towards the heater core for advance, towards the brake master for retard. 1 deg works out to about a dimes width. If you dont like the results you have the mark to return it to before. (8.5* iirc is the spec) you'll have it ~right when it sounds kinda like a 7.3 PSD with the cold timing advance on, it'll start pretty much instantly when hot. Notes: at first I didnt want to gently caress with timing, went down 3 flats on fueling, it would still smoke at idle, and p much all the loving time, so definitely timing. bumped it once, left fueling alone. it was better, but revs would hang when cold which drove me nuts. MPG was 12-13 regularly, cold it was one cranky SOB. even with 8 new glows, it would take a few revolutions before it would start. This says timing or worn pump/injectors. considering the pump is a reman from ? and the injectors are new, I attacked timing. 2-3 weeks ago I bumped it again, and went up 1.5 flats on the fueling. smoke is gone, has enough power for my likes, it'll haze a bit above 3 grand, which is fine to me. Starting is a lot better too....except now I suspect a failing starter motor, haha! I need to find my inductance meter and see how many amps the fucker is pulling. as for EGTs: a NA will run away in EGTs with poo poo timing or a bad pump. I don't have a pyro yet, and probably won't get around to having one till we move. Factory exhausts on these trucks are undersized too, which doesnt help. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 17:53
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cursedshitbox posted:Ask away! get it all tuned/running well THEN turbo it. Thanks, this is all good info. The comparison to a powerstroke isn't necessarily helpful to me, since like I said I've never really worked on diesels before, although I think I have a functional idea of how they work. What are the symptoms of worn out injectors or pump besides lower performance? As far as I know it starts OK (maybe a couple revolutions when cold) and doesn't smoke; I'll have to pay more attention to these things going forward. I think he's getting like 10-12mpg which is kind of not great. I think he'd be pretty happy with 15. No over-fueling black smoke but reduced economy and performance implies to me that it's probably more likely to be timing than fuel amount, does that make sense? I'd think under-fueling would get great economy but awful performance, and over-fueling would cause a bit of a smokeshow. I'll keep an eye out for the snappy or GM tools, probably get one cheaper than a ferret adapter. But for now I'll see what we can get by making small, reversible changes. What does too much timing look/feel like? Obviously it won't ping, because that's how diesels always sound, haha. Yeah I'm not going to turn the fuel any higher than it is now without a pyrometer in the exhaust, but I guess down is always safe to see what happens. Do they have to be installed right at the exhaust port, or can you put them farther down the pipe like an O2 sensor? I guess closer to the exhaust port is better, but it's really cramped in there. Like a finger's worth of space, maybe, between the driver's side manifold and the floor/doghouse. I think he's going to redo the exhaust at some point to try to reduce the restriction; it's got the stock bus exhaust on there which is like, a single 2.25" system which seems way too small for 7.3 liters of fury.
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Nov 6, 2016 20:03
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You want it to hot start fast. thats a good sign things are timed right. the further you advance the timing, the louder the clatter will be. too much and you *will* burn GPs. Those are really the only symptoms I'm aware of. too retarded you get smoke @ idle, high EGTs, poor starting. tired pump/injectors: high EGTs, no start when warm, weird power issues. If it starts then stalls, thats air leaks. DB2s lose timing as they age, and generally last 100k miles. If your friend also doesnt know when the fuel filter was last replaced, now would be a good time to do such. prefill it too. Definitely run diesel purge through it. grab some stanadyne addative or 2 stroke oil and blend a little in the fuel too if you care. Don't screw with the fuel adjustment till you get the timing right and a pyrometer. I only hosed with mine because the ~po~ put some big mac daddy injectors on a NA engine  When timbo time comes...it'll be nice to have such, but till then its a waste. Pyro location: most idi guys place it between cyl 3 and 4 on the left manifold. if its turbo'd definitely remove the manifold down pipe and blow the shavings out, otherwise, eh. Go to a 3" or better. I just plan to jank a stock 7.3 psd (3.5") and make it work. you can also stuff it just on the otherside of the flange. I'll just shove mine in the left manifold. hahah I once turned the fuel screw down pretty drastically...couldnt get 70 outta the fucker. it was slower than a vw air cooled bus. I've had it almost a year now and its just now getting to where I'm pleased with how it runs. It is probably over timed by a half-degree or so, but till I get around to timing it, seems alright to me. I'll grab some videos of mine later on, both hot and cold.
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Nov 6, 2016 20:42
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Doublepostin'   rear diff service. confirmed 4.10 gears with (un)limited slip.  Back together. note the corrected brake line. also corrected the vent tube as it was positioned in a way to get all sorts of road grime, mud, water, etc. I'm not really a fan of slathering 3 tubes of RTV on diff covers. Plus the paper gasket looks a liiitle more professional.  Front diff also had a poorly positioned vent tube...and suffered because of it.    I am working on pictures that you can smell. be goddamn glad its not finished yet.
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Nov 6, 2016 23:59
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Timing is everything on these. There are places to rent meters, and you really do need one to get the best mileage. When I put this and a K-type TC in I just drilled and tapped the driver-side manifold, between 3 & 4, from the bottom while engine was running. This did not appear to damage my turbo. I used a lot of high-temp grease and brand-new bits and got it done in about a minute before things started to get too warm. Pretty sure all chips were caught by grease or blown back out hole.
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Nov 7, 2016 00:09
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digger_smolkin posted:Timing is everything on these. There are places to rent meters, and you really do need one to get the best mileage. The local outfits here don't have one...although I prob could dig around oilburners or whatever site and see if anybody offers to do it for $beer$. awesome cheat on installing the probe too Warm start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YA0tqL4wdFE E: I ignore the GP light when warm, sue me.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:55
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What's up with the voltage? I figured the alternator would be excited as hell to be (even somewhat) involved in turning that huge driveshaft again, but it doesn't look excited at all. (please don't kill me) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 10:29
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:What's up with the voltage? I figured the alternator would be excited as hell to be (even somewhat) involved in turning that huge driveshaft again, but it doesn't look excited at all. That gauge is "meh" because its gets the leftovers of a huge load going through a little tiny tube. gauge is piggy backed off the ignition circuit which is obviously undersized. what you're seeing is 160A of glowplugs running however. they're on their own power feed, as is the alternator. both 4ga. The alternator is adequate for most of everything, but not enough for that old rear end winch or those glowplugs. Scored a reman starter last night for $65 with a year warranty... I remember the p38 one ran me $275 when it poo poo at work.
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Nov 8, 2016 16:06
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