|
Scale crawling is rad Already ordered more parts after the first outing. Trying really hard to increase performance while retaining the leaf springs and other scale elements.
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 07:30 |
|
|
^^^ ha ha if I did not know I could never tell this is a rc. Nice work! ^^^ So i t is done! What a adventure! yesterday it was just too cold and I was not prepared enough for that. Kept jamming the piston and drowning the motor. At the end it would just not start and I quit since it was getting real cold 10c. Put the heating on in the garage all night and this morning it was quite hot in there. Still heated the engine with a hairdryer till 140f and started it. It started fairly easily and I left it to idle for a minute. And couple of hours later here I am with a broken in and tuned revo 3.3. And he kicks rear end! What a beast! First time I saw that second speed kick I could not believe it. Cannot wait to take this bad boy out on a track and break it :-D Now it's like my 4-tec in that it starts instantly from cold and could just idle there for ever. No experience with other motors but the two trx 3.3 I have are very easy to tune and maintain it seems. I love that it was such a challenge cause I got to change the tune a lot and I know my way around tuning a trx 3.3 much more now. edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbYCnSmHDaI Iznogood fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Sep 25, 2016 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2016 19:35
|
|
|
I really like how this one turned out
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 05:01
|
|
|
kuffs posted:I really like how this one turned out That looks amazing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 14:06
|
|
|
New bumper New tires and RIMSSSSS  New lights  Probably going to buy the u-bolt kit for the rear axle so I can move it forward to the center of the fender well. I need to make a panhard bracket for it so it doesn't turn left when it's bouncing through the grass. And I have to rewire most of the lights. I know it looks good in that last image, but I wired everything with a common ground and apparently the lighting controller I'm using uses sink current to drive the LEDs. The performance is incredibly good now with the slightly larger tires. It had no problem tackling some of the more difficult obstacles along the way. I still need to pull a helper leaf out of each spring so that it isn't as prone to tipping over on side-hill. I rolled it quite a few times today and it sure sounds harsh with the styrene body and the steel bumpers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2016 05:08
|
|
|
^^ Very nice!!!! I have a few new aquisitions! Ans I must say I found the best upgrade for a rustler: a mugen mbx7 converted to brushless. What I beast! Loving the poo poo out of it. So sold my rustler because I don't want to rc's who do the same thing and they are close enough I don't see myself using the rustler.  Also got a great deal on a crawler so finally got one. Loving him a lot. He's not a scale so that's still my list. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2016 10:42
|
|
|
I did a thing today! Started 9th in the race by virtue of bumping in from the B, too. To be fair, the 28/5:09 I ran in Sportsman for 3rd in the A-main (total of ~15 cars across A and B) would've landed me somewhere between 8th in the 17.5 Expert B-main and 4th (out of 5) in the 17.5 Expert D-main, and the only difference between the two classes are the drivers  But it's still easily the fastest car I've had in that class.I will fully admit it took a donated body from one racer who painted it up and realized he would never actually use it, as well as some chassis tweaking by another to get the thing to stop traction-rolling. I was less than four tenths out of another third-place trophy in the VTA A-main, and if the breaks in traffic had gone my way I might well have ended up in second there. Slightly importantly, I beat my dad (who probably does 90% of the not-race-weekend working on the cars I drive... which are also his hand-me-down Associated TC6.1/6.2 chassis) in the mains in all three classes, and that's something I don't think I've ever consistently done. I even outqualified him in VTA by virtue of the slightly wonky points system instead of just fastest single run.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2016 05:30
|
|
|
Congrats on the win IOC. The Australian 1/10th on road electric titles were run last weekend. The local guy who wins most events was able to beat the best 1/10th scale racer in the world. They ran really close in all the finals, was great to watch
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2016 08:59
|
|
|
Yeah, watching top-tier guys is something else. The Expert 17.5 class A-main went 31/5:04, with 2nd-5th within a 1-second gap from 5:08 to 5:09, with the exact same rules package my 17.5 car runs under. Handout tires were in effect too, so everyone in a TC class other than VTA was running the same rubber. A full second a lap quicker on ~10 second laps, and I felt like my car was on rails.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2016 16:26
|
|
|
The only RC experience I have is messing with some toy store Tyco trucks when I was a poor child. Now I'm a middle class adult and after reading this thread and watching a bunch of YouTube, I'm ready to dive into scale trucks. This is my real life 4x4 so naturally I want to replicate it with a Tamiya CC01.  My plan is to get the kit, a 3ch tx/rx, 2s lipo (guess I'll need some kind of lipo mounting tray), and a low voltage alarm, and one of those tiny winches. I have a pair of lipo chargers for my drone so I'll probably just use those. My neighborhood has a neat little creek/nature area that would be perfect for afternoon trail runs but im most excited to crawl around in out-of-scale urban environments like random construction rubble or just piles of things. I don't know why. My brain tells me to just get an scx10 ii for solid front axle and modability but I can't resist the temptation to re-create my FJ. Can anyone recommend a servo and a motor/esc to replace the kit 540? My real life wheeling style is slow and controlled with locked diffs and I'm pretty that's how I'd want to do it scale too. I don't think i need speed at all so I'm imagining something like an 80T, sub-2000 kV but I have no sense for how slow is too slow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2016 18:58
|
|
|
I can't really help you out too much with most of your questions, but a quality radio will let you set what the max throttle is, so you won't have to worry about getting a motor that is too fast.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2016 19:05
|
|
|
Just going to throw out there that you can get an FJ body for an SCX10 II pretty easily, or adapt others to fit. Get what you want, definitely, but the SCX has so much after market support its amazing. Plus its such an amazing little thing. My 1st-gen SCX10 is a blast. Also needs fixed, as do 2 of my other 3 RC's...
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2016 19:18
|
|
|
Siochain posted:Just going to throw out there that you can get an FJ body for an SCX10 II pretty easily, or adapt others to fit. Get what you want, definitely, but the SCX has so much after market support its amazing. I recognize that the scx has many advantages and the bodies are interchangeable but I like that the CC01 has some authenticity with independent front suspension. I'll pick up an SCX10 for xmas or something. Anyway I just bought a bunch of stuff from Tower and Amazon! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2016 20:12
|
|
|
I would just get a brushed motor if you're doing lower speed crawling. They're cheap and durable and work very well for crawling. I have a 55 turn something from Novak and an axial 35 turn that I switch between sometimes and they're both great.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2016 03:59
|
|
|
Had my TF2 out last weekend I hosed up the suspension on it a whole bunch while trying to increase articulation. I went with longer shocks but that just creates issues with it bottoming out on the longer shock bodies. Even running longer hoops in the front didn't counteract that. Need to do some playing around such that the tire nearly tucks at full compression. Should keep the CG lower during all maneuvers. It's very very close to being 'done'. And I also started a new project: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2016 18:28
|
|
|
This opened about half an hour from my house: http://www.windycityrc.com/ It's an indoor carpet track, both on-road and off. I have a 71 barracuda body in the mail (how should I paint it?), a 25.5 novak motor and ESC, a "drift" steering servo with a .10second 60deg travel time.... And sitting on my bench is a Associated TC4, with battery and tires installed. ..... So I'm going VTA racing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2016 18:35
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:This opened about half an hour from my house: http://www.windycityrc.com/ That's about 20 minutes from work. I don't have any cars myself, but maybe I'll go spectate.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2016 19:28
|
|
|
That looks awesome. The track scenario here in AZ has been in flux for the past few years (well, more than usual). Onroad has been parking lots only for a long, long time, but the current setup we're using is at least a really nice parking lot that pretty much never has anything parked on it during the week anyway. Offroad had been SRS, which despite moving around and no longer being anywhere near Scottsdale, was still running for about 30 years... but apparently they closed up abruptly at the beginning of the month. One of the local hobby shops is taking on a much larger space (former Petsmart) and setting up an indoor offroad track which hopefully goes better than SRS.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2016 20:13
|
|
|
Truck's nearly complete. Waiting on some finishing details (like a bumper) Promptly smoked the plastic drive shaft that I was using between the transmission and the transfer case. Lasted all of 2 minutes on 3S. Already got a steel replacement on order.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2016 21:46
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:This opened about half an hour from my house: http://www.windycityrc.com/ Holy poo poo, that's 15 minutes from where I live. I haven't touched RC stuff in years, may have to check it out.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
Vaminn posted:Holy poo poo, that's 15 minutes from where I live. I haven't touched RC stuff in years, may have to check it out. It takes me about 25 minutes to get there, from work, or home. So.. it's something I can actually do now. To go from zero to VTA car, you're looking at $400-600. Without radio, battery, or support equipment. And that's the "cheap" class. I was talking with a buddy of mine, thinking about "how cheap can racing be". If we get 3-4-5 people, getting them to run a cheap car class might be worth the $200. I"ll post my other thoughts on it in a bit. Boaz MacPhereson posted:That's about 20 minutes from work. I don't have any cars myself, but maybe I'll go spectate. Please do! They have chairs setup, and if you want to "participate" standing on the track and flipping cars upright is apreciated by all. They call it being a track marshal.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2016 06:27
|
|
|
Hearing about people turning to VTA makes me want to sell my TC5R to someone that will love it and for a reasonable price. It's mint and has sat for more than six years at this point. I've only kept it with the thought of slapping my drift tires on it for a sexy carbon/aluminum drift car.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 05:17
|
|
|
I ran a clapped out TC3 in our local cheater VTA, where most cars are way under weight. Still held its own decently enough. There's also no point in getting any more battery than absolutely necessary, that 25.5 motor just won't draw much.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 07:53
|
|
|
Been a while since I posted some photos of my various whatevers. Large Scale stuffs:  We are releasing a new billet wheel for 1/5. These are made from 6061 aluminum here in the US. The wheels on the left are the new ones and the ones on the right we have had for a while.  My VEKTA after retiring from a day of beating. I have around two gallons of fuel through this (which is a lot of wheel time) so far. I now have a tuned pipe so uncorked the engine is awesome. I've also added all of the machined options from Kraken (billet spindles, spindle carriers, light weight hard anodized chassis and front shock tower, billet rear vertical chassis plates). A couple of neat little trick parts from Turtle Racing too. I think next up for this truck will be some different tires. Either the Pro-Line Trenchers or the RC4WD Mickey Thompsons. Axial RR10 stuffs  Finally installed my Pro-line LED light bar and RC4WD Baja Designs light pods onto the Bomber. Wiring is getting finalized but I have these lights powered by a separate 300mah 3S LiPo that is wired into the rear fuel cell. I have a small on/off switch mounted in the bottom of the fuel cell so they can be operated independently from the main battery pack. I also ordered a KOH style rear light bar from One Too Many RC's that is coming from  We kept a 25x20 foot section of our backyard unfinished for  our future raised garden beds for tomatoes and stuff but I recently cleared it out and creatively stacked some rocks for a mini trials course. The RR10 makes short work of it, but the SCX10 struggles enough for it to be fun and interesting. (bonus miniature Somewhat Heroic)  The Vanquish Currie sway bar is so money. Works awesome! I would one day love to make a garden park such as this inspiring beauty or this (seriously read the second one - posting is aces) Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Nov 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 20:58
|
|
|
Somewhat Heroic posted:I would one day love to make a garden park such as this inspiring beauty or this (seriously read the second one - posting is aces) Both of those links are the same, but that is cool as poo poo. I've been eyeballing the CC01 lately as I kinda want something that I can slam around but not break the bank doing so. Not really looking for an all-out crawler, either. A place like that would be awesome to bomb around in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 21:49
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Both of those links are the same, but that is cool as poo poo. I've been eyeballing the CC01 lately as I kinda want something that I can slam around but not break the bank doing so. Not really looking for an all-out crawler, either. A place like that would be awesome to bomb around in. Thank you! I edited and fixed it with the correct link The CC01 is cool as hell. Frankly all of the Tamiya cars are awesome in their own quirky way. This YouTube channel has some really well shot videos of various Tamiya cars being run the way they were meant to be driven. Even though you might worry about it being too much of a "serious" crawler the new SCX10 II is unbelievably capable out of the box. It is near perfect. The only reason people go and spend mega bucks on them is 100% because they have A.D.D. and just want to tinker.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 23:04
|
|
|
I'll always bang the drum for Tamiya as the best quality, best value kits that will go together without a great deal of fuss, and just work.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 23:27
|
|
|
I think an FJ Cruiser build will be my next. Need to figure out what chassis I can fit it on besides a CC01.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 23:28
|
|
|
Somewhat Heroic posted:Thank you! I edited and fixed it with the correct link Ok, that guy's back yard is the poo poo. Edit: and there went an hour to that guy's channel. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Nov 16, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2016 23:37
|
|
|
I found a driver for my Jeep He's very serious about driving the jeep  Probably because he's desperate to get to a hospital 
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 22:12
|
|
|
My TC4 spun it's wheels in anger the first time tonight. VTA is depressingly slow. Also, my kitchens carpet has some pretty awful traction. :-) I ordered a pre-painted body, as my VTA body is going to take ~some time~.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 11:16
|
|
kuffs posted:I found a driver for my Jeep Is that a Nathan Drake action figure? If so it pretty well belongs in a jeep driving unsafely! Edit: IT IS! http://www.toysrus.com/product/inde...91838266%3aTRUS
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 17:50
|
|
|
7in action figures are roughly tenth scale. I was poking around on eBay for my next driver and Nathan Drake seemed as perfect as it was gonna get. I still got to find a way to tuck his AK into the back somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:02
|
|
|
Finally got to get the JK out on the trail     Stock bumper in the rear and some plastic Axial bumper in he front while I wait to figure out what I'm doing for those. Truck runs like a champ. It climbs over drat near everything with the portals. Probably needs some minor tweaks in the panhard setup but otherwise it's perfect. Just gotta sort out accessories to really seal the deal.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2016 01:04
|
|
|
Saw this in the space thread in D&D, thought I'd cross post it.drunkill posted:
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2016 18:13
|
|
|
That is awesome they are blowing up those Tamiya tanks!kuffs posted:I think an FJ Cruiser build will be my next. Need to figure out what chassis I can fit it on besides a CC01. Have you looked at the MST crawler? It's is solid axle front and rear though. My friend has one with an FJ40 lid and it looks awesome for a short wheelbase rig. You can also wait for the HPI Venture to come out (eventually? krushgroove?) Looks like I'll be getting the SCX10II for Christmas. I'll be picking up the kit Monday when we get our shipment. My wife asked what I wanted for Christmas and I said an M&P Shield for concealed carry. She wasn't thrilled about that and said 'isn't there a radio controlled car you want?' I said the axial car and she said yeah get that. I'll be selling my Honcho as a roller with a radio. If there is any interest in my TC5R as a roller amongst the goon collective here I think I'm ready to say goodbye to it; probably like $100+ shipping?
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2016 19:18
|
|
|
... That tank is neat. Has associated just like... died? My list of problems with my TC4 grows. From the factory, at least three holes came stripped out. The right rear suspension upright was assembled wrong. And.. I suspect i'm going to find other problems. Last night, I got to run it at the track, and the front body mounts are delicate. (I've got four new upper bumper mounts coming to cover my learning period) But I also broke one of the driveshafts. Who thought carbon driveshafts were a good idea? One of them shattered, which is.. fine, I suppose, I hit a wall, my fault. I've quite literally never broken a halfshaft before, then again, excepting the M05, I've never owned anything with plastic halfshafts before. The shop had some aluminum halfshafts on the wall, so I bought them. I couldn't get the hub apart because the screw associated installed in the bottom of the knuckle, was so badly munged up that none of the supplied allen wrenches, OR MY OWN allen wrenches could get it to turn. Thankfully it was a button head, and I could get some sharp pliars to turn it. I lost my half hour of track time because associated assembled my car like poo. The steering is sloppy. Very sloppy. I need to do something about that... When I called associated, they recommended replacing the parts they supplied with aluminum aftermarket bits.  I'm going to stuff some plastic in the ball joints, and maybe do the o-ring trick. But.. Jeeeze. I'm not pleased. I did get a few laps in. Though a 25.5 motor feels ~really~ slow. And I don't ever actually need to brake on the track layout. Just turn and coast and I can burn off the speed. And it bogs when i'm cornering.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2016 04:48
|
|
|
The TC4 is a pretty old chassis these days, could be wear and tear. However plastic parts in the steering rack can cause slop as the plastic wears away. Here's some photos of my Suzuki Swift (on a Tamiya M05 ver. II chassis) that I am running this weekend. A friend of mine did the paint job.  
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2016 06:34
|
|
|
You Am I posted:The TC4 is a pretty old chassis these days, could be wear and tear. However plastic parts in the steering rack can cause slop as the plastic wears away. I did figure out the steering. The screws holding the posts were loose, (and I had fixed that earlier) and the screws holding the rack to the arms were two full turns loose. Fixing that was tighening everything until it wouldn't move, then backing off 1/8th turn. Now the only slop is from the ball cups and servo output shaft.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2016 01:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 07:30 |
|
|
Does anyone make a car-style transmitter with throttle linear maps (the way I can do with a Taranis, so 0% stick is 0% throttle, but 100% stick is like 20% aka adjustable endpoints). Dual rates would be the cherry on top. I'm of half a mind to get Teton for my little one's BDay (we hate buying disposable toys), but I still want him to be able to practice in a courtyard without mangling himself/the car. I know it does 50% "beginner mode" but I can guarantee it'll be enough to bury the car at 20mph into my leg. Would a TQi fit the bill? evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Nov 28, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2016 13:14
|
|
