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Trucks are expensive. Do you have a budget?
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 15:03 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:29 |
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Public service announcement: I bought a Civic the other day, and the tire warning indicator came on Monday. I was thinking that the pressure was off a bit due to a temperature change. Turns out that either Honda or the dealer overinflated the tires to between 48 and 52 psi - the recommended pressure is 32 psi (the tire max is 51 psi.) I'm lucky I didn't have a blowout thanks to a pothole or hydroplane during the heavy rain the other day. Moral of the story: Make sure to ask about your tires before you leave the dealership.
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 16:57 |
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Or just assume that everything the dealer touches is solid poop and verify everything yourself. I had a rental Mazda6 last year ping off the TPMS. A tire had deflated to like 38psi when the other 3 were north of 44psi. In November. In South Dakota. Versus on Monday when the TPMS went off in my MX-5 and it turned out that the driver rear picked up a nail and was sitting at 10psi. (Lol @ RE71R's stiff rear end sidewalls making a visual inspection almost impossible)
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 17:49 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:Public service announcement: I bought a Civic the other day, and the tire warning indicator came on Monday. I was thinking that the pressure was off a bit due to a temperature change. Turns out that either Honda or the dealer overinflated the tires to between 48 and 52 psi - the recommended pressure is 32 psi (the tire max is 51 psi.) There seems to be a certain set of mechanically inclined people that put their tires near max psi. I don't know much about cars but that just seems like an awfully stupid idea.
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 18:40 |
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To be fair, it's a little misleading that tires have their maximum PSI stamped on the sidewall, but to find the recommended PSI you have to look at the sticker inside your door jamb and figure out which wheel/tire size combo you've got on the matrix. Same thing happens with bikes, which is how you end up with people riding their road bike around at 120psi rattling their fillings out of their teeth. It doesn't excuse it, of course, but I can at least see how someone would make that mistake. But a dealer or shop making that mistake is unforgivable.
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 19:05 |
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The group of people that I first ran into that were doing it were mechanics in the Army.
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 19:08 |
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They're also the same type of people who don't realize that torque specs (and wrenches) exist for a reason and will tighten a bolt to its yield strength.
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# ? Nov 17, 2016 21:21 |
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DNK posted:Trucks are expensive. Do you have a budget? There's a reason we ask people to USE THE TEMPLATE. Trucks aren't very expensive, though, especially on the used market for non-Toyota poo poo. I would recommend a gently used six-cylinder domestic half ton. Sure, the Tundra is pretty indestructible, but you'll pay a very hefty price up front for that privilege.
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# ? Nov 18, 2016 18:32 |
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The only 6 cylinder half ton I'd recommend is the Ecoboost F150.
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# ? Nov 18, 2016 18:54 |
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Phone posted:The only 6 cylinder half ton I'd recommend is the Ecoboost F150. when I think of low maintenance costs, I think of Ford turbo engines I've driven all the NA V6 half tons. They're not fast, but they're fine.
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# ? Nov 18, 2016 19:01 |
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Phone posted:The only 6 cylinder half ton I'd recommend is the Ecoboost F150. He said reliability and cost of ownership were priority number one, and your total cost of ownership is going to be way cheaper on a V6 truck just because you can get them so dirt cheap. As far as being a work truck, unless you're doing heavy towing the mediocre Ford 3.7 or GM 4.3 are perfectly good.
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# ? Nov 18, 2016 19:02 |
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If you want a small truck, buy a Ranger. If you want a truck truck, you buy a half ton with a motor that isn't going to stymie you from using your truck to do truck things.
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# ? Nov 18, 2016 20:24 |
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Phone posted:If you want a small truck, buy a Ranger. I've got a fleet of 4 V6 half ton pickups for our families business. They get loaded up constantly and they're perfect for the job. I'd guess most "truck things" don't require a V8.
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# ? Nov 18, 2016 20:55 |
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We have a couple of 2015 Dodge 1500 four-door pickups in the fleet with 3.6 V-6's and they drive exceptionally well for being the poor-man's truck. I wouldn't buy one for towing, but even loaded up with 1500lbs, they're certainly zippy enough. I think when you say "V-6 pickup", people automatically think of some poor old gasping 4.2 ohv F-150 or vibratory 1989 Chevy 1500 w/4.3. The new V-6's with VVT and 6+ speed automatics are a whole 'nother ballgame.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 06:21 |
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My uncle has a like 1989 Ford F250 with the tow package (aka really low gears) and the I-6 and while it doesn't go more than like 60mph, it seems to get a hell of a lot of truck poo poo done (he's a wood turner whose claim to fame is being a perfectionist, doing the state capitol restoration turnings, and having a lathe that used to turn Boeing nosecones, so he's hauling some big poo poo. He also has his own personal one man machine shop to keep all this poo poo going -- he'd be AI as gently caress if he cared about cars at all, though he does most of his maintenance and repairs on the truck, I think.) You only need the V8 if it is 1989 and you need to do your truck stuff quickly.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 07:59 |
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The old Ford I-6 is kind of a special case though, it's torquier at low RPMS than the base V-8 and is the same displacement. It's like a throwback to 1958 when trucks were for hauling only, had four speed granny-trannies and 4.56 rear gears.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 14:54 |
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Do not buy a small/medium truck, unless it's the exact size vehicle that fits into your parking/garage. There is nothing inherently wrong with them, other than supply to demand ratio. As in, there is limited supply and high demand. Many young guys buy the stupid things for image reasons, and the prices are stupidly overinflated. Otherwise you'll be much better served by a base model 1500 pickup, extended cab if you need more seating space. Bonus savings if you can drive a manual
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 16:44 |
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nm posted:having a lathe that used to turn Boeing nosecones That sounds like quite a story. Metal lathes are particularly bad choices for turning wood, both from a usage standpoint and a "maintaining a machine designed to be accurate to a thou that wasn't meant to be clogged up with wood which doesn't remotely need that level of precision nor would it hold it due to the material properties" standpoint. They are also massively overpowered, expensive and heavy for their swing and table lengths as compared to a proper wood lathe. Unless 777s have wooden nose cones. Then I'm totally wrong about all of this.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 20:57 |
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Motronic posted:That sounds like quite a story. This is a very old lathe (this would be more from the 50s). I do not believe that it is a metal lathe.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 21:48 |
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Speaking of truck chat, I just hauled 2x 55 gal water drums (empty) home in the priusv with room for a passenger. They rolled around freely in the back until I put in a weeks groceries, 3 boxes of diapers, and a jumbo thing of toilet paper. Unless you need "skies the limit" or more than ~700 lbs of cargo, seriously consider this thing. If I moved the seats forward I likely could have fit 3 in there and still had room for the groceries in the rear footwell.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 22:18 |
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Nitrox posted:Do not buy a small/medium truck, unless it's the exact size vehicle that fits into your parking/garage. There is nothing inherently wrong with them, other than supply to demand ratio. As in, there is limited supply and high demand. Many young guys buy the stupid things for image reasons, and the prices are stupidly overinflated. Otherwise you'll be much better served by a base model 1500 pickup, extended cab if you need more seating space. Bonus savings if you can drive a manual Well every time the economy takes a slight downturn all the 22 year olds working oil fields/getting army bonuses default on their dumbassed pickups they couldn't afford so I would imagine you can pick a repod one up cheap if you're in an area with lots of those people. Of course I'm sure they treat them like poo poo though.
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# ? Nov 19, 2016 22:58 |
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Proposed Budget:Under 4k New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 door, smallish hatchback How will you be using the car?: Short commutes What aspects are most important to you? Not being a nightmarish money-pit. I have a 2001 Prius that has all but died on me and the $3500 I was quoted to fix it seems far better spent on something without 200k miles on it. Ideally I'd like something to last for a fair bit without too much fuss, but my lovely job and tiny saving don't give me much to work with; my budget already assumes I don't do anything silly like eat for the next three months.
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# ? Nov 20, 2016 06:26 |
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A slightly newer Prius. The next generation was a quantum leap in both quality and being a good car. Edit: Dunno fi you can get one for $4k. WTF is wrong with the old prius that costs $3500? Nothing except maybe the transmission should cost that much.
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# ? Nov 20, 2016 06:34 |
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nm posted:A slightly newer Prius. The next generation was a quantum leap in both quality and being a good car. I know dick all about cars so here are a series of potentially unimportant facts: -It was totaled once already by a heroin addict that stole it; a family member subsequently "had it worked on" before selling it to me -In the past few months the mileage dipped from a consistent ~39 to a consistent ~30. -The check engine light spat out a code that made the two mechanics I took it to say "you need a new engine harness," though a couple people have suggested that "engine harness" is slang for "poo poo's hosed, but I don't feel like figuring out what specifically." This is relevant because thanks to CA smog laws, I can't get this bitch reregistered until it gets sorted out. -It consistently has trouble starting, though it always does in the end. E: this probably belongs in AI.... Russian Remoulade fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Nov 20, 2016 |
# ? Nov 20, 2016 06:52 |
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Try taking it to a mechanic who actually knows about Priuses (not a dealer) before giving up on it. They're a bit more complicated than a civi or something. Also: https://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/consumer/Consumer_Assistance_Program/index.html If you do need to buy a cheap new car, I recommend a Ztec or PZEV Focus (newest one you can get).
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# ? Nov 20, 2016 07:06 |
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Russian Remoulade posted:I know dick all about cars so here are a series of potentially unimportant facts: Not that this is good advice, but if all that's preventing you from passing inspection and it otherwise is functional, how long after resetting the computer does it take for the check engine light to come on? You might be able to limp along and save up more cash, 4k doesn't get you much in the way of not a nightmarish money pit.
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# ? Nov 20, 2016 23:32 |
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Unless you had rodents or fire under the hood, the answer is never "you need a new engine harness". You're being swindled, buddy. Also, $3500 will buy you a newer Prius, in my neck of the woods at least. Wait until Christmas/end of the year, prices will plummet, as they do every year. IRQ posted:Well every time the economy takes a slight downturn all the 22 year olds working oil fields/getting army bonuses default on their dumbassed pickups they couldn't afford so I would imagine you can pick a repod one up cheap if you're in an area with lots of those people. Of course I'm sure they treat them like poo poo though. https://www.google.com/search?q=bro+truck&biw=1229&bih=589&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiziNWTyLjQAhUFQCYKHTfKCNoQ_AUIBygC
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 01:13 |
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Nitrox posted:Unless you had rodents or fire under the hood, the answer is never "you need a new engine harness". Or have a 6.0 Powerstroke. Done several of these, turn out that making all the engine wires about 1/2" too short on a paint-shaking motor is a bad, bad idea.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 01:20 |
Thanks for all the truck chat!KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Trucks aren't very expensive, though, especially on the used market for non-Toyota poo poo. I would recommend a gently used six-cylinder domestic half ton. Sure, the Tundra is pretty indestructible, but you'll pay a very hefty price up front for that privilege. I have a few thousand in savings, and about $17k in stocks that I can sell off at any time. I'd like to keep as much of those stocks as possible, but a working vehicle is kind of a priority right now, so I'm flexible on the price. Let's say $10k tops (how much does it usually cost, post-purchase, in terms of inspections, tune-ups, etc.?). I'm not afraid of a higher up-front cost (say, for a reliable Toyota or something), so long as it's a good deal, and not a money pit. I've been doing as much research as I can on used trucks in my area, but this is my first time purchasing a vehicle, and I know nothing about trucks, so thanks for the help everyone. A V6 sounds good to me, I'm more interested in the cargo space than the towing capacity or anything like that.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 01:40 |
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literally this big posted:Thanks for all the truck chat! Example (my locale) http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5880421378.html Nitrox fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Nov 21, 2016 |
# ? Nov 21, 2016 01:49 |
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Has anyone here tried living with an EV for a daily driver with only a standard 110v outlet in their garage? I'm thinking real hard about leasing a Chevrolet Bolt in May, but living in an apartment means I'm not likely to get a 240v outlet in the garage (and would be leery about paying for installing one anyway). My average driving is probably like 150mi per week, so math-wise it checks out pretty well at 8 miles of charge per hour on 110v (just guessing from Google), but I'd love to hear other opinions.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 03:25 |
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Ciaphas posted:Has anyone here tried living with an EV for a daily driver with only a standard 110v outlet in their garage? I'm thinking real hard about leasing a Chevrolet Bolt in May, but living in an apartment means I'm not likely to get a 240v outlet in the garage (and would be leery about paying for installing one anyway). Look at a Chevy Volt, especially if you can charge at work or some other place you're at often.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 04:38 |
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So we've begun the process of shopping for a minivan as we fit the use case - one toddler already and two more on the way. The market pretty much looks like this, in no particular order: Dodge Grand Caravan Toyota Sienna SE Chrysler Town and Country / New Pacifica Kia Sedona Honda Odyssey We're in the fortunate position where we don't give a poo poo about the cost of a ~3 year old used one because we can pay cash; though depending on financing rates we may take a small loan and pay out of the savings we've already established so we can keep the cash on hand for "oh poo poo," above and beyond the emergency savings that are stockpiled. We've started comparison shopping but a 20 minute test drive can only give you the impression that "yep, it's a minivan." 1. What minivan do you have/like and why? What are the daily operational things that annoy/please you? 2. If the rates make sense, has anyone else done the "get a loan with a large down payment instead of paying cash" route?
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 10:25 |
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The honda and toyota will be the most reliable. The chrysler/dodge will be cheap, have stow and go seats (which are really good and useful) but probably break more.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 17:29 |
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You can get a used car loan with a 1.99% APR if you shop around. For 36 months at 1.99%, you're looking at these types of options: 15k, 430/month, 465$ in interest 25k, 716/month, 774$ in interest 35k, 1002/month, 1084$ in interest Can you beat 3% over 3 years?
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 17:35 |
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devmd01 posted:So we've begun the process of shopping for a minivan as we fit the use case - one toddler already and two more on the way. 1. We bought a 2010 Kia Sedona brand new. It has had zero issues over the last 6 years and is a great no-frills minivan. So basically it lacks some of the comforts I would appreciate, but does it's job well as a family hauler and has all your basic needs. We went this route because at the time, the brand new Sedona was the same price as a 3-4 year old Honda/Toyota and Kia has great warranties. It's made several long road trips with no issues. I do think the newer Sedonas have stepped up their game quite a bit as far as trim levels and options. 2. Can't help you there..... 6 years ago we had little savings and financed most of it.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 18:19 |
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Currently DD a Toyota Matrix XRS. 6-speed, 170 hp, vvt, 8100 rpm redline yamaha motored little unsteering piggy of a hot hatch. It's not fast, but is entertaining while being reliable and getting 28-30 mpg. How much would I hate a 06 Pontiac G6 GTP? 6-speed, 240hp v6. It also has the giant panoramic roof, do those give trouble? PO says they swapped in the cobalt SS brembos as well. If it was a hatchback I'd be much more inclined, but I think the back seats lay flat at least? Edit: nevermind, looks like they discontinued the pano roof because of all the problems, heh I'll stay with the devil I know I guess. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Nov 21, 2016 |
# ? Nov 21, 2016 18:23 |
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I had a 10 year old sienna and with proper maintenance it's a trooper.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 18:30 |
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angryrobots posted:Currently DD a Toyota Matrix XRS. 6-speed, 170 hp, vvt, 8100 rpm redline yamaha motored little unsteering piggy of a hot hatch. A lot. The G6 was a lovely car and the gxp didn't make it better.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 19:15 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:29 |
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I also recommend the Sienna. Close family members have an XLE with 120K miles on it and it hasn't needed anything but routine maintenance. Interior is still in good shape as well, everything works properly. Solid van.
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# ? Nov 21, 2016 19:16 |