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I have never purchased a new vehicle before, and I am considering it. Do I bring along folks that actually know what they are doing (retired real estate agent who enjoys buying vehicles and his wife that previously worked at the dealership in management), get the Costco auto price, or both, starting from the Costco auto price?
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Nov 27, 2016 20:54
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Make sure it is centered and push firmly. It is possible that your local gas station's valve is crudded up or damaged. Try another station, center it, and push firmly. If your hands are cold, wear gloves. You can search youtube for instructional videos, but in all cases you will need to center the hose valve on the tire valve stem and push firmly. Yep turns out that's the problem. Went to a different gas station and it immediately worked. The one from the other gas station was a piece of poo poo.
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Nov 27, 2016 21:28
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I honestly just use a bicycle pump for my tires usually these days Even a crappy Walmart one is faster than one of the cheap DC compressors. Just grab one and go to town when necessary.
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Nov 28, 2016 01:10
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I carry a floor stand bicycle pump, and it has saved me once or twice. But god drat if it's a poo poo ton of air to inflate what are essentially truck/80's car tires.
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Nov 28, 2016 01:35
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Those DC inflators are usually trash. They'll work in a pinch but inflating all 4 will heat that thing up something fierce, seeing as it will take ages to do anything over 20psi. Oh yeah, they are poo poo for doing a serious fill: if they don't actually melt, you'll die of boredom when trying to stick 20psi in 4 tyres. But for sticking 5 psi of topup, they are fine if you get the ones that cut off at the right pressure. I usually use the time to sort out the rubbish in my boot and centre console. Especially if the alternative is a gas station pump with a gauge that changes depending on what angle you happen to be holding it at.
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Nov 28, 2016 01:47
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Some stations now have compressors that let you set a target PSI (7-11 in particular has them). But of course you have to pay to use them. Also if it's business hours, a lot of tire shops will check your tire pressure for free. Discount Tire/America's Tire offers this regardless of where the tires are from. NTB usually does too. Parts Kit posted:2001 Ford Escape: I know you said you already handled it, but in the future, you can (USING A TOWEL folded over itself several times, in case it decides to try to shoot boiling coolant out) unscrew the radiator cap to the first stop. DO NOT press down on the cap, otherwise you'll overshoot it and remove it completely. Just turn it counter-clockwise less than a quarter turn. There's tabs on the radiator that prevent you from turning the cap further without pressing down on it, which is why I say don't press down, just turn. And make sure you keep your face as far away as possible, in case you do overshoot the stop and the coolant decides to spray out. You have to be very careful doing this on a hot engine, as the sudden loss in pressure may cause the coolant to boil and violently come out around the cap. It may be better to do it with the engine running, but doing this will relieve the pressure in the cooling system (and thus, the pressure behind the leak). I've limped along for several days, several times, with a cracked radiator by doing this (and I've even had mechanics suggest it to me). It'll be quicker to boil over on a hot day (but won't show hot on the gauge), but so long as the car doesn't normally run hot you can usually get by okay for a bit like this. It may still leak a little, but not nearly as much, just make sure to pull over and stop if you see more than a tiny puff of steam here and there. Some cars may not have the stop - I don't think mine does - but that would be cars where you add coolant to a tank instead of the radiator. If it's a vehicle like that, let the engine cool fully before opening the cap, and again, be mindful of the possibility that the coolant might suddenly boil and decide to say hello to your body. I haven't tried doing this trick on a car like that, but I think you'd have to just leave the cap off. This is absolutely a last ditch option, and you may get 3rd degree burns (and even lose your eyesight) if you're not extremely careful; you should only really be used to get the car home or to a shop to replace the radiator/hoses/whatever, but so long as you keep an eye on the coolant level (and keep it topped off), if it's your only way to get around, well.... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 03:12
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Those DC inflators are usually trash. They'll work in a pinch but inflating all 4 will heat that thing up something fierce, seeing as it will take ages to do anything over 20psi. You’re not wrong, but it’s still way better than relying on a service station’s compressor, or using a manual pump. 12 V pumps work fine for topping up tyres a few times per year and it’s nice to have in the car just in case. I’ve used mine to compensate when I travelled somewhere with ambient temperatures 40°C lower, and for the time I put on a spare and found it underinflated (those doughnuts lose air fast), for example. Standalone units are generally better than battery/light/accessory horrors. By all mean, get something more substantial if you’re using it daily or weekly, though.
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Nov 28, 2016 03:53
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I like turtles posted:I have never purchased a new vehicle before, and I am considering it. Do I bring along folks that actually know what they are doing (retired real estate agent who enjoys buying vehicles and his wife that previously worked at the dealership in management), get the Costco auto price, or both, starting from the Costco auto price? There's a thread in A/T that covers it in a bit more detail, but if you want the lowest effort low price, Costco is hard to beat. You can do better price wise, but you need to be prepared to negotiate a bit. You can do pretty much 100% of it over email. Either way I would not walk into a dealership without either a) doing so to only look at / test drive and NOT discuss price or b) already having the negotiation completed. punk rebel ecks posted:Yep turns out that's the problem. Went to a different gas station and it immediately worked. The one from the other gas station was a piece of poo poo. Gas station pumps are hilariously variable in terms of how well they're kept up. A *good* 12V inflator, like a Viair or any other pump often recommended in Jeep groups, is absolutely a good idea if you have no other means to inflate your tires.
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Nov 28, 2016 03:55
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Some stations now have compressors that let you set a target PSI (7-11 in particular has them). But of course you have to pay to use them. Wawa, at least the ones near me, have the electronic ones and they're 100% free to use.
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Nov 28, 2016 04:31
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PabloBOOM posted:I honestly just use a bicycle pump for my tires usually these days Even a crappy Walmart one is faster than one of the cheap DC compressors. Just grab one and go to town when necessary. You can probably buy a cheap small mains powered air compressor for very little cash. I got a 30L 240V compressor with a tyre pump attachment and an extension lead for £45 a couple of years ago. Probably cheaper for you in the US. Get one of those to leave in the garage/shed and a foot pump/big bike pump to leave in the car. Dont bother with a DC one - they are poo poo.
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Nov 28, 2016 10:00
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Hi friends! Can anyone recommend me a good car phone mount that isn't a CD mount or a suction cup? I have a proclip but apparently it costs a lot to put adhesive stripes that won't kick the bucket after 3 months. (it also shipped with a chipped plastic bit but let's not talk about that)
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Nov 28, 2016 15:43
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rear end posted:Hi friends! Can anyone recommend me a good car phone mount that isn't a CD mount or a suction cup? I have a proclip but apparently it costs a lot to put adhesive stripes that won't kick the bucket after 3 months. (it also shipped with a chipped plastic bit but let's not talk about that) Maybe something like this? It clips into the vanes of an air vent. (Note that I don't necessarily recommend that particular product, just the category of vent mounts. There are probably better ones if you look.)
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Nov 28, 2016 15:53
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rear end posted:Hi friends! Can anyone recommend me a good car phone mount that isn't a CD mount or a suction cup? I have a proclip but apparently it costs a lot to put adhesive stripes that won't kick the bucket after 3 months. (it also shipped with a chipped plastic bit but let's not talk about that) Someone here recommended 3M Dual Lock (similar to velcro) for my dashcam (hanging from the trim above the windshield). They were right. In the NV desert the adhesive never threatened to fail. Once you remove it intentionally, it doesn't re-stick well, so place it properly the first time.
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Nov 28, 2016 17:01
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Dual-lock is great but also be aware that the actual teeth on it do wear out after repeated removal / reinstallation. Not a huge deal but something to know about. I finally bit the bullet and spent $50 or so total on a Panavise vehicle-specific mount for my Jeep and a Panavise clamp mount for my phone. Sooooo much better than any windshield / dash mount I've ever had.
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Nov 28, 2016 19:17
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I have a little cubby below my single-DIN stereo, so I took the arm off of a suction cup style mount and stuck it to the side of the cubby with 3m tabs. The cradle obscures the far right end of my stereo, but there's nothing over there anyway.
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Nov 28, 2016 19:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Dual-lock is great but also be aware that the actual teeth on it do wear out after repeated removal / reinstallation. Not a huge deal but something to know about. I paid $62 for my retarded vehicle-specific Proclip. It was good except when it got loose and fell off the interior trims it was attached to. I don't want to add stress to my air vent vanes or stick dual lock to my car and phone (although I appreciate your help guys), so I looked up the Panavise custom mounts. It looks good because it screws in, instead of using an adhesive to stick to the trim pieces. But for my car I have to pry stuff away apparently, which I don't feel comfortable doing, so, poo poo.
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Nov 28, 2016 20:07
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I would make a custom one that fits in the seam between trim pieces, so the screw that attaches them together also goes through the bracket - or at least, the part of the bracket that stays in place, and you can clip another part to that. That should make for a very rigid, strong setup.
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Nov 28, 2016 20:14
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InitialDave posted:I would make a custom one that fits in the seam between trim pieces, so the screw that attaches them together also goes through the bracket - or at least, the part of the bracket that stays in place, and you can clip another part to that. That should make for a very rigid, strong setup. For all my vehicles now I have just bought the phone+case specific brodit proclip item and then made the mounting bracket for it myself using perforated metal strip (meccano style) bent/cut/welded to shape and then bolted to an accessible bolt via an access hole in between trim pieces. There always seems to be some accessible nuts+bolts on the steering column which you can get at via the gap that appears when you adjust the column back/forth.
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Nov 29, 2016 00:01
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Do we not have a what car should I buy thread anymore?
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Nov 29, 2016 04:46
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Pure, unadulterated reliability: Prius. General croneyism: Civic/Accord/Fit (used) Fun: Anything but a Nissan. Trust me, I hate the current situation, too.
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Nov 29, 2016 04:50
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e: I'm a dipshit, found the correct thread
M42 fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 14:15
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So yeah... uh... my transmission started working again. Just... randomly. I'm absolutely confused because the transmission place said it was hosed. What the hell?
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Nov 29, 2016 21:14
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Skunkrocker posted:So yeah... uh... my transmission started working again. Just... randomly. I'm absolutely confused because the transmission place said it was hosed. You have solenoids getting clogged with debris from the clutch packs in the transmission. If you were outside chicago my shop rebuilds transmissions and the guy who does it can do your trans blindfolded. if you have any more questions you can PM me. Basically what happened it the fluid started eating at the clutch packs. Trans fluid can get almost accidic and will wear out your clutch packs. it will also mess up your torque converter and when that messes up it makes everything go bad. It can also lead to a broken flexplate or crank issues. Basically either get it rebuilt or start playing junkyard roulette. Its a time bomb right now and will choose the most inoportune time to go KABLOOOWEY Edit: that trans place probably drained the fluid and added a synthetic which is helping it shift for now till more clutch material gets to the no no places. But from what i have read about your last few posts you will need a new torque converter wether you go junkyard or rebuild.
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Nov 30, 2016 02:21
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Enourmo posted:Wawa, at least the ones near me, have the electronic ones and they're 100% free to use. Sheetz has free electronic ones but they are broken like 15% of the time. Also, is over or under inflation generally worse for the life of a tire or are they both equally bad? My new car lists 33PSIG on the doorjam and it came from the dealership at about 40. I cut the pressure down to 35. (There was a recent 20°F swing up here too.)
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Nov 30, 2016 09:11
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Three-Phase posted:Sheetz has free electronic ones but they are broken like 15% of the time. Underinflation is somewhat worse AFAIK. Overinflation makes the tire wear in the center first and leads to a hard ride, but it will still squeeze out water and give decent (if not optimal) traction. Underinflation leads to wear on the edges first and makes the tire more apt to trap water under it (increased hydroplaning) as well as increasing rolling resistance, which leads to worse gas mileage and higher tire temperatures which wear it out faster.
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Nov 30, 2016 15:42
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You're supposed to inflate to the doorjam level, right? Even if the tire is rated for a far higher pressure like 50PSIG versus 33PSIG on the doorjam?
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Nov 30, 2016 16:09
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Three-Phase posted:You're supposed to inflate to the doorjam level, right? Even if the tire is rated for a far higher pressure like 50PSIG versus 33PSIG on the doorjam? If you're running the tire size specified on the doorjam, yes. If you're running something different, you may need to tweak the pressure a little (or a lot) through trial-and-error or a chalk test. The maximum fill pressure listed on the tire is exactly that—a maximum fill pressure. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 16:31
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I get the vague feeling i'm getting scammed on craigslist but I can't see the risk with my method but my wife is pretty antsy. We've got this 1999 Dodge minivan that we've had for about a year and a half. We bought it off her grandma for a long trip with family++ that we wanted to save having to take two vehicles for. We made the trip, and then started saving up, sold her car and bought a 2014 Honda van. So, we need to get rid of the Caravan. There's nothing majorly wrong with it except for two things: the headliner is starting to droop and there's a knocking coming from the front right strut. Otherwise, the body is in real good shape, everything works, it has extensive repair records. It only has 167k miles on it, so I posted it on CL Little Rock this morning for $1500. I get a text from an Ohio number about 20 minutes after I post the ad. code:He responds with a request for more pictures, I send him some, and then tell him that the only issues with the vehicle are the headliner starting to droop in places and that the front right strut is clanking. code:I text him: Price is $1500 cash to you or any representative you chose, van sold as is. Cashier check or check for the vehicle will need to be $1500 + $100 for a having to go to the bank fee. Van will sit until the check clears. When the check clears, you or your representative can take van and title. Then he texts me back, code:code:I intend to deposit the check in the bank and wait until the bank declares it cleared. I intend to inform the bank that I am waiting to hear that the check is cleared. I'm not going to wire money to anyone for anything. What am I missing?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:12
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I also got a text from a NYC number this afternoon asking for the same thing, Hey, I pay now, you work with shipper to get up here. I told him the same thing and he asked for my paypal info and when I told him I didn't have a paypal account it's been crickets ever since.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:16
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My understanding of cashier's checks is that banks are required to make deposited funds available to you within a certain time period (24 hours or something) regardless if they are fraudulent or not (because at that point they don't know yet) and on the other end, cashier's checks are issued using the bank's money so if it turns out to be fraudulent (when your bank tries to get the money from the issuing bank) the bank will deduct the money from your account and if you've transferred goods at that point... good luck getting them back. There's a lot of vagueness about when a check "clears". So just because it's there in your account doesn't necessarily mean it's your money yet Maybe I am missing something though, all I know is I always deal with hard cash for smaller amounts
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Nov 30, 2016 23:19
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tactlessbastard posted:I get the vague feeling i'm getting scammed on craigslist but I can't see the risk with my method but my wife is pretty antsy. Its a scam. A common one at that.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:21
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Razzled posted:My understanding of cashier's checks is that banks are required to make deposited funds available to you within a certain time period (24 hours or something) regardless if they are fraudulent or not (because at that point they don't know yet) and on the other end, cashier's checks are issued using the bank's money so if it turns out to be fraudulent (when your bank tries to get the money from the issuing bank) the bank will deduct the money from your account and if you've transferred goods at that point... good luck getting them back. There's a lot of vagueness about when a check "clears". So just because it's there in your account doesn't necessarily mean it's your money yet Yeah, I understand the difference between cleared and available. I had the occasion once to deposit a check for 18k and they told me 2k is available now but that remaining 16k won't be available for several more days. And it was nearly a week. I'm going to wait the week or so. I'm not going to be checking my balance online to see if the check is good.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:22
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Banks have been known to say “Yeah, sure, the check’s good” only to pull a “lol, psych!” later.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:23
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Its a scam. A common one at that. Where's the scam, if I wait until I actually have the money before letting anyone take the vehicle? And don't send anyone money, period?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:23
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Razzled posted:My understanding of cashier's checks is that banks are required to make deposited funds available to you within a certain time period (24 hours or something) regardless if they are fraudulent or not (because at that point they don't know yet) and on the other end, cashier's checks are issued using the bank's money so if it turns out to be fraudulent (when your bank tries to get the money from the issuing bank) the bank will deduct the money from your account and if you've transferred goods at that point... good luck getting them back. There's a lot of vagueness about when a check "clears". So just because it's there in your account doesn't necessarily mean it's your money yet Bingo.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:23
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tactlessbastard posted:Where's the scam, if I wait until I actually have the money before letting anyone take the vehicle? And don't send anyone money, period? You're not going to actually get the money, because it doesn't exist. All you're doing is going through a song and dance with a stupid criminal. This scam is so common that I can't imagine any legitimate buyer would ever try to conduct operations this way because it looks so shady.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You're not going to actually get the money, because it doesn't exist. All you're doing is going through a song and dance with a stupid criminal. This scam is so common that I can't imagine any legitimate buyer would ever try to conduct operations this way because it looks so shady. You can't tell the bank, hey let's make double drat sure this is good?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:29
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The scam is that the check is bad, and they will drive off with the goods before that fact is revealed to you.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:29
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tactlessbastard posted:Where's the scam, if I wait until I actually have the money before letting anyone take the vehicle? And don't send anyone money, period? It is important to understand that 'cleared' does not mean 'the bank says this is legit and you have the money for sure' Edit : the chances of this being legit is the same as that nice nigerian prince who emailed you is. spog fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 23:29
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spog posted:It is important to understand that 'cleared' does not mean 'the bank says this is legit and you have the money for sure' Can you not wait out the period between 'clear' and 'money for sure'?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:34
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