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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I wasn't sure that he'd be able to set the HPF/LPF independently for the appropriate channels, but I couldn't find a great picture.

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Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

VelociBacon posted:

I wasn't sure that he'd be able to set the HPF/LPF independently for the appropriate channels, but I couldn't find a great picture.



So that means I can only choose between HPF or LPF? I would want one that can do both?

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
You've got the option on each pair of channels so you're good. You don't need both on one pair. For the sub you'd use it on low pass, for the mains you'd use high pass.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Assuming Velocibacon is right (I don't know), you might be better off doing this in lieu of the amp and sub:

https://smile.amazon.com/Planet-Aud...ds=planet+audio

I have one of these in my 4x4 and it pretty much nails exactly what you're describing - it's not going to win competitions, but it sounds good and it's more than adequate (I think I have it turned all the way or almost all the way down and it's still quite sufficient).

Plus it's less than either of those components alone.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
If it were me, I'd probably wanna spring for a bit nicer main speakers (components ideally) even if it meant getting a bit cheaper sub and running your main speakers off the deck's power.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

powderific posted:

If it were me, I'd probably wanna spring for a bit nicer main speakers (components ideally) even if it meant getting a bit cheaper sub and running your main speakers off the deck's power.
This, do this.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Krakkles posted:

This, do this.

Hm ok, maybe I should do this in stages then. What kind of specs determine a higher quality head unit + component speakers?

e: went with the Alpine CDE-163BT head unit, thanks all for the help. I will progressively build on this instead of buying a lot of low quality stuff at once

Razzled fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Dec 3, 2016

Megasabin
Sep 9, 2003

I get half!!
I'm tired of using an Aux cable, so I'm looking for a decent car dashboard/radio system that can integrate with my iphone via bluetooth. Does anyone have any recommendations for one? Also does car type matter or will any system work with any car?

Additionally, how much do auto places charge to install one of these? I don't know how to solder, and don't really have time to learn.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

Megasabin posted:

I'm tired of using an Aux cable, so I'm looking for a decent car dashboard/radio system that can integrate with my iphone via bluetooth. Does anyone have any recommendations for one? Also does car type matter or will any system work with any car?

Additionally, how much do auto places charge to install one of these? I don't know how to solder, and don't really have time to learn.

I'm interested in the answer to the first question too. I got a unit I'm happy with on clearance at best buy but need to find another unit for my wife's car now and don't know enough to recognize a good deal.
Car type pretty much doesn't matter.
No idea what it would cost to get it installed at a place (that probably varies by region and vehicle), but installation is really not that hard. You don't need to learn how to solder, you can do a great installation using just butt splice connectors (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-strip-and-connect-wires-with-a-butt-connect/?ALLSTEPS)

The part that can be a little obnoxious is fighting with your dash to get to the screws that you need to remove to take out the old stereo and install the new one. On most cars, it's pretty easy. On others, you have to carefully unclip the plastic dash waterfall in a dozen different places using all 6 of your arms. You can search for your car year make and model + "stereo install" on google, and I'm sure you'll find a forum of proud owners who have posted a how-to with 3 dozen photos.
I had my choice of the thread from clubsciontc.com or scionlife.com or a half dozen youtube videos on my '05 TC. There is no car boring enough to not have a forum of hundreds of enthusiasts who love talking about it.

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

Megasabin posted:

I'm tired of using an Aux cable, so I'm looking for a decent car dashboard/radio system that can integrate with my iphone via bluetooth. Does anyone have any recommendations for one? Also does car type matter or will any system work with any car?

This depends on what you want. If you're just after the A2DP stack (audio from media sources) there are plenty of bluetooth receivers that can be shoehorned into a glovebox, center console or stuffed under the dashboard and powered by a USB charger.

If you want full functionality (ie, audio from media sources, voice control of the phone, phone calls, etc) things get substantially more complicated and expensive.

Megasabin posted:

Also does car type matter or will any system work with any car?

This largely depends on the car. Most vehicles built in this decade have largely integrated the factory ICE equipment into the dashboard and have also included ancillary functions (like external thermometer displays, HVAC controls, trip computers, hands-free phone systems & in-dash navigation) to the point where you have to choose between giving up functionality or paying as much/more than a decent aftermarket headunit for adapters that allow you to retain these functions.

Megasabin
Sep 9, 2003

I get half!!

Geoj posted:

This depends on what you want. If you're just after the A2DP stack (audio from media sources) there are plenty of bluetooth receivers that can be shoehorned into a glovebox, center console or stuffed under the dashboard and powered by a USB charger.

If you want full functionality (ie, audio from media sources, voice control of the phone, phone calls, etc) things get substantially more complicated and expensive.


This largely depends on the car. Most vehicles built in this decade have largely integrated the factory ICE equipment into the dashboard and have also included ancillary functions (like external thermometer displays, HVAC controls, trip computers, hands-free phone systems & in-dash navigation) to the point where you have to choose between giving up functionality or paying as much/more than a decent aftermarket headunit for adapters that allow you to retain these functions.

I'd preferably like a fully functional unit with bluetooth receiver for the iphone and voice controls. My current car doesn't have in-dash navigation or hands-free phone systems. It has a pretty basic radio, although it does show the temperature.

Megasabin fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Dec 12, 2016

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

Megasabin posted:

I'd preferably like a fully functional unit with bluetooth receiver for the iphone and voice controls. My current car doesn't have in-dash navigation or hands-free phone systems. It has a pretty basic radio, although it does show the temperature.

WHAT COLOR IS YOUR CAR.

Seriously, we're not going to be able to do poo poo outside of the most general advice unless you tell us what it's going in and what your budget is.

Generally, a basic headunit swap is pretty easy wiring wise for most cars. You just get an adapter harness, follow the color coding instructions to use crimp connectors to crimp the appropriate leads, then plug it in. Crutchfield even provides installation guides and this stuff if you buy from them.

If that's still more than you want to do though Car Toys will generally do basic install for free with a head unit purchase.

Megasabin
Sep 9, 2003

I get half!!

MikeyTsi posted:

WHAT COLOR IS YOUR CAR.

Seriously, we're not going to be able to do poo poo outside of the most general advice unless you tell us what it's going in and what your budget is.

Generally, a basic headunit swap is pretty easy wiring wise for most cars. You just get an adapter harness, follow the color coding instructions to use crimp connectors to crimp the appropriate leads, then plug it in. Crutchfield even provides installation guides and this stuff if you buy from them.

If that's still more than you want to do though Car Toys will generally do basic install for free with a head unit purchase.

Sorry, I never described my car because people said it didn't matter. I have the option of putting it in a 2013 Chevy Spark or a 2006 Minicooper. I'd prefer to buy a headunit that can go in either.

My budget is 400 dollars.

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON

Megasabin posted:

I have the option of putting it in a 2013 Chevy Spark or a 2006 Minicooper. I'd prefer to buy a headunit that can go in either.

Only hangup here is the Mini uses a single-DIN stereo while the Spark has space for a double-DIN stereo. This reduces your options for things like in-dash navigation/video and/or headunits that support Android Auto/Apple CarPlay.

Otherwise doesn't look like there's any hangups with the stereo being heavily integrated into the dash with either. Seconding the Crutchfield suggestion...generally speaking if you can use a screwdriver, maybe a socket set and know how to do basic wiring you should be able to handle the install.

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

Yeah, if you insist on having single-din NAV you're going to have to get a slider unit, which rather severely limits your options and adds another point of failure for your unit.

I don't know why people say it doesn't matter, what size slot you have to work with is sort of factor #1 when trying to decide on what to buy.

Looks like this is the cheapest single-din nav that Crutchfield has:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_530VRN74HB/Soundstream-VRN-74HB.html?tp=20212

Don't know if it's any good or not, Soundstream at least used to make quality amplifiers and such, but this price point seems to put it with other gear that isn't really all that high quality.

Wowporn
May 31, 2012

HarumphHarumphHarumph
My Kenwood head unit was randomly turning off and on sporadically so I pulled it out to redo any shoddy looking wire connections, is there anything else I should look at before I stick it back in?

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I'm debating wheter or not I should upgrade the radio on my 2009 Alfa Romeo Mito. I like how the standard one looks, but I want to have my own music. There are aux leads I can buy that may or may not work, and are expensive.
Head units from known brands are pretty ugly and cost way too much. Then I saw the chinese ones at Aliexpress / ebay. I know the finish isn't always the best, but I must say they often look cleaner and have more features (or rather, less restrictions) than the big brands. Anyone have any experience with them in general?

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009
So a while ago I asked about the stereo pinout on a 2003 Chevy truck. I said that something good was happening and I'd post the results. Well, here's how it started.

The truck still had the factory stereo, which worked well enough, but it was from the dark days when the complicated cassette deck was going away and the auxiliary input jack was not yet seen as needful on a basic pickup truck, so all it had is a plain ol' CD player, and we all know these days that a dozen or so songs on a disk won't cut the mustard when you can carry around your entire Mp3 collection in the telephone you already carry around anyway. The easy solution, as it would be for many of us, I'm sure, was to pick through the shelf of old car stereos in the basement and find something with a tape cassette deck so you can use an adapter.



Phase Diffusion! :pcgaming:
(I don't know what it does, but it makes the sound sound better!)
This is what I came up with, as the truck's got a double-DIN hole and most of my pile is single-DIN stuff or oddball BOSE decks from when I had an '84 Corvette. I even have a similar GM radio, but it didn't actually fit. This was originally made for Toyota by Fujitsu, and it came out of a junkyard Cressida; I bought it years ago because it was obviously too cool to let languish in a junkyard. I don't remember what I paid for it, but it was $40 or less. Unfortunately, it is very, very tired. The cassette basket doesn't hold tightly so the adapter drifts around and causes the right channel to drop out as you go around a bend. Don't even ask what happens when you go on bumpy roads. Also the left channel output might be weak and most of the controls are so crapped up that it seems like no amount of tuner cleaner makes them right. So I did the natural (that is, natural to us AIers) and bought a similar, bitchin' vintage deck off eBay.


Apologies for the potato quality of the photograph. Enter the Mitsubishi RX-123. Or three quarters of it, there's no room for the tuner, which is in the little empty pocket down by the ash tray (boy was that a bitch to dismount for being a tiny little pocket for random poo poo). You see, the RX-123 is designed to be mounted under the dashboard, super-old-school-style. It came with a big plastic "rack" which attached to the brackets. The top-most component is an amplifier with VU meter display, which I tried to capture in motion, but since the phone was playing the music, it shut it off briefly while it also took the photo. :frog:



While the Fujitsu could have easily shredded the speakers had I let it, this was only in part due to whatever inherent quality was left in it, and partly because the speakers are, as near as makes no difference, fourteen years old and in rough shape. The Mitsubishi basically demanded I replace them; what could have been written off as poor coupling between the adapter and head and weak channels and alternator noise (Oh boy, the alternator noise through this thing, sounded just like a turbo!) was now clearly revealed to be faulty speakers. The one in the background is the passenger's side, by far the better of the two. The driver's side was missing all but an inch of the foam ring. The foreground speaker is what was swapped in. Nothing special, but, again, I had them already, and Florence + The Machine's Remain Nameless no longer opens with a choir of farts, so I'm happy.

But that's not all, oh no, 'cause nothing is ever as easy as that. Just like I was wrong about getting out of the whole "get the tunes from my phone onto the car stereo with a $12 plug and stuff I already had" I was wrong about "A New-Old-Stock radio will work perfectly!"::frogsiren: there's a problem with the cassette deck, and it's a real weird one: Sometimes the output level from the tape deck takes a nose-dive for no particular reason. This is not adapter-dependent, it will do it from a real cassette as well. The precise level of the nose-dive varies from maybe 25% to barely-audible with the volume at maximum, the bass, treble, equalizer boost and every equalizer band at maximum, the output on the phone pushed up into clipping, the Loudness on and every filter off. This is, of course, a goddamn mother-loving, cock-sucking Intermittent Fault, and doesn't seem to have any clear cause. Sometimes it happens when you first start up, but that's usually when it's fine; it usually occurs after you've been driving a bit. What's even weirder is that if you press the program change button to swap sides of the tape, the level usually climbs right back up, although it almost just as usually falls right back down to where it had settled before. When it doesn't, this side-changing ritual (of course the tape adapter only does anything on one side) will sometimes restore some or all of the lost output level. This led me to think, maybe this was a head-spinning deck, since it's from 1983 (when the whole thing cost something like $950 :catstare:), and that some corrosion or accumulation had occurred on the mechanism for the spinning head,, but, no, it's got a bi-directional head and all you're doing when you press that button is reversing the direction and changing which tracks the head is listening on.

Oh, and to top it all off, when I took the cover off the cassette-deck component and let it run off the adapter for an hour or so while I did some work to accommodate the thing (the guy on eBay had listed it as a double-DIN when it's actually much bigger, I initially was driving around with the dash trim plate off and the entire thing wedged fast in the radio bucket!) IT DIDN'T EXPERIENCE A FAILURE! I did notice a fluctuation in the output level when I took the cover off, but I wasn't able to reproduce it readily by poking at likely things.

tl;dr:
-Mitsubishi RX-123 Cassette deck and ONLY cassette deck sometimes experiences unprovoked output level drop.
-Level drop corrected either momentarily or "permanently" (until it decides to do it again) by cycling the direction of tape play. Sometimes multiple cycles are needed, sometimes no amount of cycling brings it back.
-When you're done with the truck for a time and come back to it when you want to use it again, the cassette deck will usually work. Sometimes it will fail again briefly, and sometimes it will be fine the rest of the day.
-There is an "Attenuator" function which quickly knocks the volume down as to make an order at the drive-through or take a phone call, but I don't think it's spurious operation of this feature because this feature has continuity across the tape deck and tuner, and if you switch to the tuner the output level is what you'd expect for it being on or off. Then again, I can't completely get the idea of spurious operation of the attenuator out of my head completely...

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Red_October_7000 posted:

tl;dr:
-Mitsubishi RX-123 Cassette deck and ONLY cassette deck sometimes experiences unprovoked output level drop.
-Level drop corrected either momentarily or "permanently" (until it decides to do it again) by cycling the direction of tape play. Sometimes multiple cycles are needed, sometimes no amount of cycling brings it back.
-When you're done with the truck for a time and come back to it when you want to use it again, the cassette deck will usually work. Sometimes it will fail again briefly, and sometimes it will be fine the rest of the day.
-There is an "Attenuator" function which quickly knocks the volume down as to make an order at the drive-through or take a phone call, but I don't think it's spurious operation of this feature because this feature has continuity across the tape deck and tuner, and if you switch to the tuner the output level is what you'd expect for it being on or off. Then again, I can't completely get the idea of spurious operation of the attenuator out of my head completely...

I bet there's a cracked solder joint in there somewhere. I guess it also could be dirty/oxidized contacts in a switch. Does it start/stop working when you go over bumps? I'm thinking it just gets jostled a little bit and the board flexes to make/break whatever contact is intermittent. If you're handy, it might be worth touching up all the solder joints real quick.

:shrug:

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009

Raluek posted:

I bet there's a cracked solder joint in there somewhere. I guess it also could be dirty/oxidized contacts in a switch. Does it start/stop working when you go over bumps? I'm thinking it just gets jostled a little bit and the board flexes to make/break whatever contact is intermittent. If you're handy, it might be worth touching up all the solder joints real quick.

:shrug:

I'm handy but soldering is not one of my strong suits. Which is weird because I can weld beautifully; stick or MIG or TIG (the pretty pretty princess of the welding processes, if everything is not right it refuses to chooch) or even old-fashioned with a torch, but I'm not so great at soldering. I'm getting better, but not to the point where I can do that and say that all the joints would be better thanks to my attentions.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Red_October_7000 posted:

I'm handy but soldering is not one of my strong suits. Which is weird because I can weld beautifully; stick or MIG or TIG (the pretty pretty princess of the welding processes, if everything is not right it refuses to chooch) or even old-fashioned with a torch, but I'm not so great at soldering. I'm getting better, but not to the point where I can do that and say that all the joints would be better thanks to my attentions.

Generally what the poster was telling you to do was to just apply the soldering iron to the connections to reflow the solder joint. You shouldn't have to add any solder.

BTW if you're not having much luck with soldering get a proper iron with temp control and use flux. It's as much of a difference as having the wrong feed rate or cone or whatever for MIG.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Well, I can't TIG, so you're still coming out ahead of me, hah.

If you have it apart anyway, maybe examine the solder joints with magnification, see if you can spot anything. If you find the particular culprit, you might be able to reflow it to satisfaction.

E: And yes, good tools helps a bunch. I paid $200 for my iron, and it was several times that when new, and it makes a huge difference even compared to $100 irons.

Still, you don't need any magic just to heat up the joint and get the solder to flow back together. But even if you aren't confident that will work out, just identifying the issue is going to be the hard part I think.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Dec 25, 2016

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

Generally what the poster was telling you to do was to just apply the soldering iron to the connections to reflow the solder joint. You shouldn't have to add any solder.

BTW if you're not having much luck with soldering get a proper iron with temp control and use flux. It's as much of a difference as having the wrong feed rate or cone or whatever for MIG.

Yeah I may have to break down and buy a better soldering iron. I've been doing with my dad's old Weller Marksman and a fistful of 25-watt RadioShack specials all my life and figured it was me because I was always told, and believed, that it's a poor workman who blames his tools.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Red_October_7000 posted:

Yeah I may have to break down and buy a better soldering iron. I've been doing with my dad's old Weller Marksman and a fistful of 25-watt RadioShack specials all my life and figured it was me because I was always told, and believed, that it's a poor workman who blames his tools.

You can get a decent iron from an electronics store for $50 that will have some dial on it to control roughly the temp up to 425C.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
Any recommendations on a double DIN touchscreen with Bluetooth? I missed a Best Buy sale on a Pioneer AVH-291BT yesterday and could buy the 290/280 variants for a similar price, but worried that Pioneer may have pushed some reliability changes as the 280/290/291 don't have much differences.

I plan on adding an amp and component speakers in the future if that makes a difference. Hoping to spend ~200ish.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If your budget can move I like my pioneer AVH-4000NEX.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
Huh, I was actually looking at the AVH-4200NEX. It's on sale at Fry's for 499 then a 100 Pioneer rebate.

I like the idea of a detachable faceplate, and having Android Auto/Car play is a huge bonus.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Bank posted:

Huh, I was actually looking at the AVH-4200NEX. It's on sale at Fry's for 499 then a 100 Pioneer rebate.

I like the idea of a detachable faceplate, and having Android Auto/Car play is a huge bonus.

Just FYI CarPlay only works when you're USB'd to the deck. I thought it would work over Bluetooth and I was disappointed.

The Door Frame
Dec 5, 2011

I don't know man everytime I go to the gym here there are like two huge dudes with raging high and tights snorting Nitro-tech off of each other's rock hard abs.
I was pissed to find out that when they say, "USB/iPod" they actually meant, "USB connected Apple device" and that my new Samsung wouldn't be detected as a USB device by my Pioneer stereo. Oh well, at least the Bluetooth works well and gives me calling settings

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
Hmm thats pretty lame, thanks for that. I will probably just end up buying an AVH-280/290/291 from Crutchfield since there's no tax charged for me and they provide the harness/plastic kit and would provide the wiring info easily if I asked for it.

Even on sale, at double the cost for the higher end version it's simply not worth it to me.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004


Following up on this - Microphone sucks, i had to attach the antenna in a weird way to get reception to work (electrical tape ahoy!) - no complaints otherwise. Totally worth the $21.

Don Dongington
Sep 27, 2005

#ideasboom
College Slice
Picked up the Alpine CDE-W265ebt the other day on sale for $233 AUD, for my IS300

I haven't figured out the facebook integration yet, and tbh I don't really care - but I have to say this thing was a huge leap forward vs decks I've had in the past. It's going to take me a while to get the EQ really dialed in, and I'm still futzing with the xovers at the moment. It's cool that you can do an active 3 way tweeter/midbass/sub setup using the onboard xovers and even the onboard amp if you want. It drives the factory splits far better than the stock amp did, and I'm getting way better low frequency response out of my sub now I'm not running it off hacked in RCAs.

Overall pretty happy. Being able to control Spotify via bluetooth is a huge improvement over my factory HU + hacked line in + bt reciever setup I had. It's definitely built for people looking for a versatile base for a low-cost SQ setup.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009
I'm finally looking to put in dash navigation into my beater 1989 Prelude, and am having a bit of trouble finding something that is an exact match for what I want. I have a bit of an odd list of requirements, which is making it difficult to search for things by normal means. The car has a double DIN opening, but is set up in a way that any head unit I get must come with a mounting sleeve / cage. Some I have looked at (Pioneer for example) don't have the mounting sleeve. Also, it doesn't need to necessarily be a new model. As long as it meets my requirements, used / a few years old is just fine. Of course, all any of the websites want to sell are the 2015 / 2016 models, so the older ones don't show up in "standard" searches either. I don't really give too many fucks about smartphone integration, because I hate dealing with my phone when I'm driving and it seems like the signal goes out when it's most needed anyway. Yet that's all the current review sites seem to talk about. Anyway, that said, here's my list:

Double DIN size
Built in navigation (flash memory based)
CD / DVD slot
Cage / sleeve mount
Free lifetime OTA live traffic updates (nothing that requires tethering to a phone, or a paid subscription)
A knob to control volume (not a deal breaker by itself I guess, but I kind of hate volume buttons)
Available for less than $400 or so (new / used / refurbished / whatever). Somewhat flexible here, but I don't necessarily want the newest / flashiest thing in this car, nor do I want to pay for it.

The hardest requirement in this list to satisfy seems to be traffic. It seems Kenwood was doing free traffic a few years ago - someone in another forum was saying they have a DNX7190HD from 2012 that does it - but apparently they've switched to some INRIX bullshit now that requires a subscription and tethering to a phone, which are both things I don't want to deal with. Does anyone know of anything that may fit?

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

I haven't tried the traffic stuff (reviews say it works tho), but I got this for my sister earlier this year and she loves it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3QC3JS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was $152 when I bought it

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy
I'm getting a 1999 Ford Ranger, and though I've installed fancy bluetooth head units and poo poo before, I feel too lazy to do it this time. Is there just some kind of cheap bluetooth soundbar I can velcro to the dash that will run on 12v? Are there any kind of bluetooth speakers designed specifically for lazy car installations?

(incidentally, I got my current car with the OEM "premium audio" installation and the sound out of an average $40 sound bar somehow sounds better than that, go figure)

Scrapez
Feb 27, 2004

To install a head unit in a Ford Ranger is so simple you might as well go that route.

You literally pry that middle black plastic bezel up that surrounds head unit and hvac. Once off, unhook fog lamp switch, cig lighter and 4x4 switch.

Pull old head unit out, plug adapter into factory harness, plug new head unit in, secure it in, put bezel back on.

It's literally like a half hour job that requires no special tools.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Do those ones not use the U-shaped Ford radio removal tools? My dad's ranger does, but it's a few years newer.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Black88GTA posted:

I'm finally looking to put in dash navigation into my beater 1989 Prelude, and am having a bit of trouble finding something that is an exact match for what I want. I have a bit of an odd list of requirements, which is making it difficult to search for things by normal means. The car has a double DIN opening, but is set up in a way that any head unit I get must come with a mounting sleeve / cage. Some I have looked at (Pioneer for example) don't have the mounting sleeve.

Don't know about the rest, but you need a mounting kit - that way you won't need to worry about the cage. Most of them are single DIN, but I found this double DIN kit (note: I've never ordered from this company before).

edit: Looks like it's part HONK831 (lol), so you can find it at a lot of online retailers. It's made to fit both single and double DIN stereos. I would think Metra (who's a little better known for mounting kits) has something as well. Expect to have to cut parts of it off to get it to fit.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jan 3, 2017

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Raluek posted:

Do those ones not use the U-shaped Ford radio removal tools? My dad's ranger does, but it's a few years newer.

I think it uses them, I honestly can't remember but I think it can be faked?

It still doesn't get any goddamn easier than a Ranger. Super goddamn easy to swap it out. Speakers are cake too.

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Scrapez
Feb 27, 2004

That's right. It does use the removal tool. Even easier. Those things are like 5 bucks and you don't have to take the bezel off.

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