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Electoral Surgery posted:Anyone have experience or opinions about climbing in the southeast US? Tell me about cool places to boulder. If you don't want to do anything other than boulder, HP40 is great. Hope you like slopers.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:38
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Chattanooga is awesome.
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Nov 7, 2016 03:26
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Seconding the Chattanooga recommendation - Little Rock City is fantastic, I was there for a day last week. If you're in the area the Red is also close-ish!
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Nov 7, 2016 03:33
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Never been, but you might want to look into Cooper's Rock, WV and Boone, NC. Not as big as HP40 or LRC, but may be sufficient and certainly an easier drive from NE.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:13
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Never been, but you might want to look into Cooper's Rock, WV and Boone, NC. Not as big as HP40 or LRC, but may be sufficient and certainly an easier drive from NE.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:35
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the entire south is on fire so maybe I'm not going 
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Nov 14, 2016 22:58
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There is amazing bouldering at the New River Gorge, and a guidebook now too. Seriously, world class. Or if you want to make the drive, LRC is equally amazing. Neither are on fire, go! I moved to Colorado from NC a couple years ago. That picture you posted is where I'm supposed to be climbing over Christmas. I was so excited to go back and send the old projects, hope they can get it contained soon. elephants on acid fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 23:44
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LRC is amazing and also not on fire! I stopped in the gunks for two days on the way down and that seems like it was kind of a mistake - lost a lot of skin and the boulders were ok but nothing amazing. I might stop by NRG for a day on the way home to break up the drive, thanks for the recommendation.
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Nov 22, 2016 12:51
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In other climbing news, Adam Ondra just did the 2nd free ascent of the Dawn Wall. Dude is a beast.
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Nov 22, 2016 14:37
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chami posted:In other climbing news, Adam Ondra just did the 2nd free ascent of the Dawn Wall. This is one of the all time great climbing achievements. Definitely confirms Ondra's place alongside Sharma in the top tier of performance climbers, if there was any doubt to that.
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Nov 24, 2016 22:26
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So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something? E:. Vvv. No reason I need to hitch the biners I guess. Thanks. Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Nov 26, 2016 |
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Nov 26, 2016 03:29
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Girth hitching dyneema is generally not suggested but I doubt you will have any issues using it as an anchor. Personally I like a PAS, just easier.
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Nov 26, 2016 04:16
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Ravenfood posted:So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something? This was discussed at a self-rescue course I attended this summer. Advice was to use nylon runners en lieu of dyneema, as nylon's higher melting point better handled the friction involved with that use. If dyneema must be used (such as in an emergency), it seems better to "basket" the sling through the tie-in loops, effectively making it redundant. Basketing is passing the whole sling through the loops, then tying together in a single knot, leaving a double strand which can rotate in the loops. Here is my preferred rappel setup, with built-in tether. For cleaning top rope anchors, a second sling tether with locking biner will give redundancy. I don't use one, but a PAS could serve here as well. Other options are a "cow's tail" made from a short length of dynamic climbing rope (bomber, but purpose built) or heavier (7mm+) nylon cordelette. The latter is one of my favorite, most versatile pieces of kit, awesome for anchors, rescue spiders and more. Also, get professional training if in doubt!
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Nov 26, 2016 04:27
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Climbing a few weekends ago at Shelf. Some 10.a  Here comes the roof...  Why is this move so big? Or why am I so short?  Hang on a throw up the heel hook!  Try, try, try, try, try...  Fall on the crazy hard mantle...  Great route just wish I could make it go down! Maybe next time. Link! spwrozek fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 03:29
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Me and my girlfriend are just getting into climbing, and as broke college kids we're trying to figure out how to get the best bang for our buck in terms of gear. Are there brands we should be looking for/avoiding? At the moment we're looking at this kit for both of us, but we need shoes too, and we've got no ideas there. All we're trying to do for the immediate foreseeable future is go climbing in a nearby gym. Any hot tips? Me and my ramen budget would be eternally grateful.
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Nov 27, 2016 07:33
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Buy the cheapest shoes you can find that fit. You are almost certainly going to trash them while learning how to climb so expensive shoes are a waste of money.
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Nov 27, 2016 08:32
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Black diamond has a similar package with harness, atc, chalk bag for $100. I'd try the harnesses and get the one I like more. As for shoes, go cheap. I like the scarpa origin as my beater gym shoe. Hard to beat at $60.
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Nov 27, 2016 17:22
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Ravenfood posted:So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something? I do this with a sling (not a cord) all the time on sport routes when you want to "build it down" from the anchors or when doing a multi pitch abseil. I don't know how well a cord would hold in a girth hitch. Also your krabs won't be equalised in most situations. If you use a sling like me, consider clove hitching to the krabs, makes it easy to equalise them. Some tips: -the sling will sag quite low and snag on your knee which is annoying -take it off at the end of each day because otherwise it sort of locks the belay loop in one place and so the sawing action from the leg loops when you walk isn't evenly distributed. This is thought to have contributed to an accident not so long ago http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1933713/Todd-Skinners-failed-harness-update - as mentioned, dyneema likes to melt so don't let your rope run through it - dyneema is not dynamic. It can fail if there's no shock absorption in the system (like a short section of climbing rope for example) http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/
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Nov 27, 2016 17:58
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POWELL CURES KIDS posted:Me and my girlfriend are just getting into climbing, and as broke college kids we're trying to figure out how to get the best bang for our buck in terms of gear. Are there brands we should be looking for/avoiding? At the moment we're looking at this kit for both of us, but we need shoes too, and we've got no ideas there. All we're trying to do for the immediate foreseeable future is go climbing in a nearby gym. Any hot tips? Me and my ramen budget would be eternally grateful. Almost all climbing gear has to meet test standards so you'll never get something dangerous, you just pay more for additional features or Gucci kit. That looks like a decent starter pack. Everyone else is right on about shoes. In the UK it's quite common for the college (university) club to have masses of gear to borrow, because the administrators think gear = safety ∴ lots of gear = lots of safety. If your college has a club, try them out.
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Nov 27, 2016 18:10
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I just finished reading this entire thread, so much awesome and helpful info! I bouldered for the first time the other day! I tried climbing briefly like years and years ago, but randomly saw a bouldering video that lit a spark in my brain. Brought a buddy who'd bouldered before to a local climbing gym and just hit the wall. I ended up sending a bunch of routes that I can't remember the ratings of, rainbowing some walls for the hell of it and seeing how far around the gym we could transverse before falling off towards the end of the session. Had an absolute blast and I can't wait to hit the wall again. My buddy had an old pair of shoes that miraculously fit me, so I bought those off him for the price of a beer. Figured I'll beat those up while I learn footwork and how not to flail like an idiot before buying a fancy pair of my own! There was one bright pink problem I just could not send no matter how hard I tried, probably due to technique and the fact that my arms were shot. Had weird dreams about that bright pink problem! There is no point to this post at all beyond me shouting about how much fun I had, and to collectively high five each and every one of you because climbing is awesome! 
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Dec 1, 2016 09:57
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forkbucket posted:I just finished reading this entire thread, so much awesome and helpful info! I bouldered for the first time the other day! I tried climbing briefly like years and years ago, but randomly saw a bouldering video that lit a spark in my brain. Brought a buddy who'd bouldered before to a local climbing gym and just hit the wall. I ended up sending a bunch of routes that I can't remember the ratings of, rainbowing some walls for the hell of it and seeing how far around the gym we could transverse before falling off towards the end of the session. don't hold out on us link the video I wanna get my brain spark lit too 
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Dec 1, 2016 15:01
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Electoral Surgery posted:don't hold out on us link the video I wanna get my brain spark lit too I can't remember the exact video, but it was posted by this channel and ever since their videos kept popping up on my feed like subliminal messages to go do something awesome: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYgDT9fSiAs Edit: it may actually have been that video 
forkbucket fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 19:46
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asur posted:Buy the cheapest shoes you can find that fit. You are almost certainly going to trash them while learning how to climb so expensive shoes are a waste of money. This, and if you quit or injure yourself it's no issue to lose only 60 bucks No one's going to judge your lovely 5.10 spires
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Dec 2, 2016 04:01
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I love my Spires. Unlined leather was the key to fitting my wide feet. And I'm mediocre at climbing anyway so I guess they fit the bill all around!
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Dec 2, 2016 04:23
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Business of Ferrets posted:I love my Spires. Unlined leather was the key to fitting my wide feet. And I'm mediocre at climbing anyway so I guess they fit the bill all around! hey I'm not knocking spires, they are cheap as hell, comfortable and what they lack in durability and edging they make for in being available on my shoerack after 6 years not climbing when I upgraded I bought a pair of mythos, aka fancy man spires
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Dec 4, 2016 10:16
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back at the wall tomorrow for the first time after a month off from climbing. My hands are gonna get wrecked 
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Dec 4, 2016 19:35
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Welp. Finally happened. Took what I thought wasn't a bad fall working on Resonated and turns out it was bad. Compression damage to some vert, and wrecked the erector muscles in my upper back. No idea how long I am out. I can barely get out of bed levels of painful. gently caress.  I was so close to finishing it too. FML
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Dec 14, 2016 14:55
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Sorry to hear man, hope you recover quickly and can get back to it!
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Dec 14, 2016 21:11
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A bad time for injuries at the moment it seems, 3 of the regulars at my local wall are out of action right now as well. Hope you make a good and quick recovery but I'm gonna give the obvious advice of not rushing back quicker than you should! At least it's not the middle of summer
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Dec 17, 2016 13:17
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This video is cool, I want to go to Arizona now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj9fFRatM1E
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Dec 30, 2016 18:34
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Electoral Surgery posted:This video is cool, I want to go to Arizona now. Arizona is really interesting because even though it's dry and hot, there's enough elevation changes and climbing turf for seemingly year round climbing. As a Canadian, I definitely fantasize about taking advantage of the relatively cheap property and climbing down there over the winter. Retirement plans I guess.
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Dec 31, 2016 17:35
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Does anyone have good recommendations for offwidths in the CO Front Range, 5.8-5.10? (Yes, I know I can also drive to Vedauwoo, and will likely do so as it warms up). Am currently obsessed with Crack of Fear at Lumpy (.10d) and want to project it this summer. There's some stuff in the S. Platte that I know of but I don't know north of Springs very well.
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Jan 7, 2017 07:23
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You could just go to the creek like everyone else from CO.
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Jan 7, 2017 15:41
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Started bouldering at a gym at the end of November and loving it so far. Very fun whether with friends or solo, so I've been going three times a week most weeks. Seems like my hand skin has toughened up enough not to draw blood now, so that's great. Thinking about buying personal shoes now. Seems like the brands sold in local stores (Rock Pillars, Saltic, TRIOP, Zamberlan) are mainly sold in Eastern Europe so kinda hard for me to find reviews. Maybe I should just grab the Mad Rock Drifter's that the gym sells...
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Jan 7, 2017 19:50
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tortilla_chip posted:You could just go to the creek like everyone else from CO. A 9 hour drive seems a little excessive for training!
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Jan 7, 2017 21:21
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Trad is rad!
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Jan 18, 2017 01:38
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i got a finger injury climbing and i will be seeing a physio next week (and probably not climbing on it until then) but i feel like maybe describing it here will garner some useful input its on the underside of my ring finger (right hand), between the last two digits. one of the tendons feels extremely tender and probably inflamed, but i get absolutely no pain or sensation by using the finger. the only pain is introduced when i actually poke, rub or apply pressure directly to the tendon itself. without thinking, i climbed on it on sunday and didn't further aggravate the injury. theres no loss of strength or mobility i think ive ruled out a pulley tear, they seem to imply lack of strength or mobility, and pain in use. this almost feels like a bruise and if i couldnt literally slide the tendon around to verify thats whats hurting i might have mistaken it for that
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Jan 31, 2017 23:33
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Verviticus posted:i got a finger injury climbing and i will be seeing a physio next week (and probably not climbing on it until then) but i feel like maybe describing it here will garner some useful input could be a flexor tendon strain? or maybe capsulitis, if there's lots of swelling on the joint? but it's hard to say -- there are so many types of connective tissue finger injuries that climbers get. i've only personally had experience with a pulley injury, which definitely resulted in acute pain when using the finger in question. good luck with the doctor. do you know if they're familiar with common finger injuries from climbing? i've heard of injured climbers seeing doctors who've recommended extended periods of rest (like many months), which is probably not the right course of treatment for the majority of finger injuries.
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Feb 2, 2017 03:40
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i dont know exactly how familiar he is with the specific type of injury but i emailed him and said "hey i think it might be this or this, im not sure" and he said he'll look into it prior to the appointment. guess we'll see i needed to talk to him about the program im using on my shoulder anyways, so this is convenient timing
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Feb 2, 2017 12:12
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 00:15 |
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I tried climbing for the first time about 2 months ago and absolutely fell in love with it. I bought some Scarpa Origins in a size 40 soon after at MEC (Canadian REI equivalent, I'm told). They were suggested to me because I have really wide feet for a lady, and also they're just good beginner shoes. Since then, I've been climbing or bouldering about 3 times a week. I don't know if the dude at MEC sized me aggressively, but even after about 1.5 months of use, the shoes feel really tight on my big toe joint (especially the right one since it's my bigger foot). I take my shoes off between climbs, and I can mostly deal with the discomfort/pain, but I'm starting to get numbness on that toe joint that lasts for a day or more after a session. Is occasional numbness in the toes just part and parcel for wearing shoes that are "appropriately tight", or am messing around with nerves down there that I really shouldn't be messing with? I'm considering heading into MEC next week and trying to get an exchange on the shoes since the dude's advice was maybe not correct. On another note, I really just can't believe how incredibly fun and motivating climbing is. I have Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (hypermobile type), which is a connective tissue disorder. I've dealt with subluxations and dislocations and pain and generally having things pop out of their sockets my entire life. I've been working on weightlifting for the last 4 years just to get my joints stabilised enough to lift any amount of weight, and I'm now finding myself able to do things on a climbing wall that I never in a million years would've thought possible for me (plus side, I get to abuse my flexibility on the wall like mad). Unfortunately, I think one of the flip sides is that my condition leads to pretty severe bruising when I bop my knees and, more suckily, some pretty consistent aching and inflammation in my finger tendons. It's especially bad in the morning when I wake up or when my hands are cold. It hasn't really affected my strength when climbing, it's just sort of annoying when I'm not climbing. We've been making sure to never climb two days in a row to try and reduce the ache. It's a bit of a shot in the dark, but is there anyone else in this thread that climbs and has experience with a connective tissue disorder? I may just roll into my physio's office soon and ask him for some counsel, although he may not really be familiar with climbing pains and injuries.
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Feb 2, 2017 18:18
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